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Old 02-08-2012, 08:43 AM   #26
XERO287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby207 View Post
Could you use this sub without the aftermarket HU?

I have very little experience with audio setups but I would love to achieve some sort of setup similar to this.

I guess I am just wondering what you are getting from the HU?

I apologize I these are painfully simple questions

8)
You can use this sub without an aftermarket HU, but the sound quality of the speakers won't be able to keep up with that of the subwoofer.

The main reason to get an aftermarket headunit is that it replicates a mini-amp and that it will send more power to your speakers, thus making them sound louder/better. <----This combined with the Equalizer in the Headunit makes for an amazing setup due to the adjustment of the highs/mids/lows.

So what you're getting from the HU is more power to the speakers and an Equalizer. Not to mention DVD playback for when your bored, waiting for someone in the car
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:45 AM   #27
XERO287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soco691 View Post
does your bluetooth and steering wheel buttons work with that headunit?
Yep both work, but you'll have to purchase the harnesses/adapters form SVXdc on this forum, which can be found here:

http://ae64.com/

If you get it installed professionally, I assume that they'll have similar harnesses/adapters, but these are known to work so I'd order these then bring them to the shop to be installed.
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:30 AM   #28
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Thanks xero!
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:49 AM   #29
XERO287
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No problem! If anyone else wants to know anything at all, I'd be happy to explain/take pictures of things for you.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:08 PM   #30
Xav_Dude
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How much were you charged for the installation? How many hours? Looks like a nice HU, looking for the same kind of HU but no nav and no dvd...
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:57 PM   #31
XERO287
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Well, I was charged 100 for the Sub install, then 90 for the HU install (Only because I didn't have all of the necessary wiring for the sub, due to the fact that I installed the sub with the stock HU so they didnt need to run RCA's and now they had to run RCA's to get better sub adjustment). Expect to pay $200 if you want it as clean as I have it. I can't even see any trace of their works, it's pretty amazing.
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:08 PM   #32
rkjunior
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Any chance to see what settings they setup the subwoofer to? I'm about to do this install once it warms up but I have no idea what to setup the sub to once I get it wired up..
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:16 PM   #33
XERO287
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Yeah, I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow.
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:38 PM   #34
dokedealer
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What HU is that?
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:43 PM   #35
XERO287
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Quote:
What HU is that?
Pioneer AVIC - X930BT
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:51 PM   #36
dokedealer
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That is a little out of my price range, are there any other good quality HUs you would recommend (Scooby Newbie)
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:03 AM   #37
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It really depends on the functions that you want. I bought this HU simply because the interface as quite a bit more professional than the of the AVH series. The AVH series will do CD/DVD playback, but does not offer navigation. If you want something cheap and don't care about the looks of the interface then go with this one:

Amazon.com: PIONEER AVH-P4400BH 7" IN-DASH: Car ElectronicsAmazon.com: PIONEER AVH-P4400BH 7" IN-DASH: Car Electronics

If you like eBay like I do then there's an alternate price as always:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIONEER-AVH-...item27c35e0637

It's not that much cheaper, so I'd just go with Amazon. That should give you Bluetooth/CD/DVD/and add-on Navi (If you so choose in the future).
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:05 AM   #38
dokedealer
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Alright, thank you so much.
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:34 AM   #39
XERO287
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No problem!
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:39 AM   #40
Xav_Dude
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Does your after market HU cause the stock speakers to rattle when you push the volume up?
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:18 PM   #41
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Nope, theyre just extremely distorted at Volume level 40. I never even go past 10 in the city and 20 on the highway with the windows and the roof down. XD If you need to go past 25, you're either showing off, or have become partially deaf. lol
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Old 02-15-2012, 08:06 PM   #42
dokedealer
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one more question, I have a 2012 hatchback, where would you suggest I install the sub?
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:15 PM   #43
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A WRX Hatchback? With the Same sub that I have? Under the passenger seat, that way when you want to upgrade your speakers you can stick an amp under your driver's seat.
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:33 PM   #44
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I love my SO underseat sub! I've run my Pioneer aftermarket HU in my last two subi's and every time the bass would make the doors rattle at higher volumes. With the sub in there is no rattle at any volume. I did my installs and wiring all myself and can say it takes time but is way easy if you're handy.
The best advice I can give is make sure to set your HU and sub EQ accordingly using an album that was very well recorded. If you want to get more into it install crossovers to door speakers and tweeters.
Once you're set up only minor tweaks are needed to suit your music.
FWIW I have a '10 2.5i hatch right now.
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:36 PM   #45
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could you post some instructions on how you installed it Dayglow? I have a pretty good idea but I'm not sure how to hide the wiring and what did you use to install the sub to the actual car?
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:24 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dokedealer
could you post some instructions on how you installed it Dayglow? I have a pretty good idea but I'm not sure how to hide the wiring and what did you use to install the sub to the actual car?
I'll take some pictures tomorrow of the whole thing and post them with a write up. Do you need help with the HU wiring harness as well?
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:24 PM   #47
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Yes, that would be amazing!
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:49 AM   #48
Dayglow
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Pictures taken and I'll do the write up when I get a moment.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:58 PM   #49
Dayglow
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Just note that this is for Ď08+ and it may work for other years with some light modification.

To start with the HU install you need to remove the faceplate that surrounds the stock HU, I used a very thin knife slide into the edge to pry it out gently and once loosened it can be pried out easily with your fingers. Avoid being too strong on it cause you can bend the interior panels and it leaves an ugly line that doesnít go away. You can also see the clips that the face is attached with.

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20
After that there are 4 screws to remove to extract the HU Ėmine is aftermarket already but stock uses the same setup- and then it pops right out. Be careful not to drop any cause if they fall down the interior panels theyíre a PITA to remove.

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20



The wiring can be a bit complicated if you have steering wheel controls, like I do, and need to install a PESWIPS controller (the little black box hanging out there). Otherwise the wiring harness can be bought to mate to your specific year and model and plugged direct into the stock molex connector to give you bare wires to connect to your HU wiring layout. The other wiring I have: the blue/white set on the left is for the subwoofer and on the right is the PESWIPS cable and my remote USB wiring. The plug on the far left is for the antenna so donít forget it as it tends to be a bit short to work easily with.


By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20



You can see where my crimps are that mate the HU molex connector and cables to the wiring harness adapter. There are a few extra sets of cables in there due to my PESWIPS controller and a control line for the subwoofer auto on feature. The auto on feature can be wired into the HU accessory on cable. The wiring codes work like this:

Radio 12V: blue/red


Ground: black/blue


Accessory: yellow/red


LF + / - white/black - blue/orange


RF + / - green - brown/yellow


LR + / - red/black - white/red

RR + / - red/white - gray/green

Illumination: purple or dark buish

Power antenna turn on: yellow/black

Yours may be slightly different, but what I found made the whole thing easier is tagging all the appropriate lines so I didnít have to keep looking back and forth, you can still see the tags attached.

Once you have the HU all wired up you can stop here or keep going for the subwoofer install.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:04 PM   #50
Dayglow
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My subwoofer leads are going down into the HU cavity and down. I routed them to the passenger side cause thatís the side my sub is on, they will come down right below the glove box. Once you get the sub cables wherever they need to go you can easily tuck them into the interior body panels to hide them. I have mine coming out right by the passenger seat belt. If you donít have sub out on your HU you can use vampire clips or splice them into one of the speaker lines (not the best signal option honestly).

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20



To get the 12v power line for the sub in youíll first set your cable (with appropriate connector crimped on) near the battery Ėgive yourself some slack so you donít end up running too tight. The power line goes into a fuse box which can easily be tucked next to the cars fuse box. If you route the cable effectively you can get it nice and good looking, donít just lay it there on top of everything. The cable can then run behind the engine along the fire wall to whichever grommet you want to use. If the sub is on the driver side use the grommet on that side otherwise use the passenger side one. Youíll just pop a hole in the grommet and feed the power cable into it. This can be tricky cause the cable is a bit limp. I used packing tape to secure the cable to some old bike cable housing I had so that I could feed the extra stiff cable housing through first. You could use a coat hanger just fine. The cable will come out behind the glove box and you donít have to remove the glove box to retrieve it, but it would make things infinitely easier. Once you get an end of the cable down behind the glove box just pull the cable until youíve taken up all the slack you need to from the engine bay. This cable can also be tucked under the body panel like the signal cable.

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20



The ground cable can be secured to any bare metal surface in the car that attaches to the cars frame. I used the forward seat rail bolt (the one by your feet)

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20



A note about the included cables and crimps: the crimps are not the best so make sure they are completely secure or theyíll break off on you while youíre driving. I got around this by getting some good pigtails (the green cables) at the hardware store that have good screw ends for the ground/power cables and a fork end that fits the subwoofer ĖI had to file them down slightly to get them to fit.

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20

By ddsherfey at 2012-02-20



Once you get all the needed power, ground, and optional remote and auto on lines install into the sub you can then get ready to hook the power cables ring connector to the battery and fire it all up.

Once you check and make sure it all turns on and such you can get to play some well recorded tunes and get the sub dialed in to your liking. I have digital crossovers setup that keep the lower frequencies from going to the door speakers and help keep the sound cleaner.

I also put a little silicon epoxy on the grommet around the cable entry to help keep the seal good.
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