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Old 01-22-2012, 10:42 PM   #1
cosseywrx
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Default Milk in my oil!?

would or could i get some insight on this? i will search on this but i think this is more of a "cuz of alaska cold" kinda thing.



heres my setup aos


btw thats Vanna White's hand!!
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:45 PM   #2
cosseywrx
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my guess would be i need a catch can
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:00 PM   #3
akeric
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its just cold out,.... the cold makes the wax in the oil change color, your engine is fine. If your worried change the oil and stop putting cheap stuff in :P
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:30 PM   #4
cosseywrx
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rotella 6 is in it...and was changed 1500 miles ago
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:53 PM   #5
tribalwrx
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My guess is because you have you aos running through your fill point and the cold,check the dipstick if its normal you should be ok
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:07 PM   #6
P3Auto
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Its normal with those AOS systems in the cold. How does the oil look on the dipstick after the car has been at rest for a while?
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:42 PM   #7
cosseywrx
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Empty. With 1500 into the oil change i had to add around a qrt. I have had a very strong oil burn smell. No leaks and no oil spitn out the exhaust. Idk
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:04 PM   #8
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Milky looking oil in motorbikes is BAD juju. Usually means the coolant is leaking into the oil.

It is usually a cracked block or cylinder.

I've never seen what your coolant is showing in my decade of WRX ownership.
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:05 PM   #9
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Subaru says 1000 miles can use 1 qt of oil and be within spec. If your running higher boost this will increase oil consumption as well. Even with a catch can or AOS your not going to get it all since there are other points of oil loss and the AOS is not perfect.

Take a good look at the back of the heads especially on the turbo side and look for wet spots. Oil return line on the turbo is a classic leak point that won't leave puddles under the car usually but will stink as it burns drops on the exhaust.

The other spot that likes to drip a little is around the oil cooler and if you look at the platic timing covers under there in that area check for drops, if cams, oil pump, set seals leak under the covers it tends to pool up a little and drip right onto the crossover exhaust pipe again leaving no real puddles but definite oil burn.

Last edited by P3Auto; 01-23-2012 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:13 PM   #10
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When I asked about the dip stick I was wondering if you had milky oil in the pan.

The reason the AOS shows that water and moisture is because its not being burned up by the motor like it usually would be. There is water vapor inside the motor all the time, usually the system takes the oil/water vapor and puts it back into the intake where it is digested by the engine.

Note: Combustion by-products will consist primarily of water vapor and carbon dioxide if the mixture and spark timing are precise. This is why you see so much steam and vapor from exhaust in very cold weather. Subarus have a great deal of blow by naturally so water vapor and carbon dioxide are constantly being put into the crank case.


With AOS on the fill neck the oil/water vapor is put back in the motor but not burned. During cold weather the top of the fill neck can be pretty cold and freeze or capture some water. This is why some vendors have created a heated AOS system.

Again not all of the water and oil vapor is put back in because one of those lines runs back to the intake. So as long as your oil is not getting to much water in it your ok. I can't speak for Fairbanks but we have installed lots of these AOS systems here in Anchorage and the Valley and the people that use them in the winter including personal cars at the shop have had no issues but have seen what you are seeing.

Coolant or heavy levels of water contamination in the oil will show up on the dip stick looking like a dark milkshake or actual coolant spots on the stick.

To reduce this effect your seeing make sure you allow the car to come up to temp completely before driving it.

Last edited by P3Auto; 01-23-2012 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:36 PM   #11
Alaskan EJ20
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you have moist oil

joking it seems to kind of a normal thing for guys in this cold climate, you could trow a catch can in the return lines of AOS but it kind of defeats the purpose of an AOS.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:46 PM   #12
cosseywrx
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No milky at the stick. I guess all is okay then. Will look for any leaks. Running 16 psi
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:40 PM   #13
akeric
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Here is some more information on it in case you need it....

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1365048
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:51 AM   #14
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Use some sea foam as directed...GOOD STUFF it willl help evaporate the moisture. Use as directed in part 2.
.
.
.
.
Sea FoamŪ Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase 2 separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations. Sea FoamŪ Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre-service, old oil residue re-liquefier / cleaner and moisture drier. It can also be used as an after-service oil additive. In either application, Sea FoamŪ Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re-liquefy old oil residue. Each method is described below:

1.
As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ― ounces of Sea FoamŪ Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING.

2.
As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (based on mileage since last oil change), put the same amount of Sea FoamŪ Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil.
Sea FoamŪ is safe to use with all synthetic oils. 100% synthetic oils, and blends of synthetic and petroleum-based oils, were engineered and are manufactured to be 100% compatible with petroleum based oils, all brands, and vice/versa. Without this compatibility, oil manufacturers and engineers would be liable for the results of mixing non-compatible lubricants. Since Sea FoamŪ ONLY contains petroleum oils, it is entirely compatible with synthetic oils.

Last edited by White_Rice; 01-26-2012 at 02:04 AM. Reason: Woops!!
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:41 AM   #15
cosseywrx
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Thnx ive thought of that as well
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