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Old 05-01-2014, 11:41 AM   #101
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 279103
Join Date: Apr 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Southern NH
2002 WRX Hybrid
Dom 3xt-r w/meth


Thanks for posting that! Ill be going with thread sealant even though ive never read about teflon tape making it into a galley... I had also never heard of shims cracking in half in the cylinder head, but that happened on my last build (with proper clearence!) soooo
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:44 AM   #102
Scooby Guru
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+


generally speaking avoid teflon tape in fluids that cannot have any debris without possible failure. fuel lines are a big one.
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:03 AM   #103
Uncle Scotty
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Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
OK Houston
we have an Uncle




are WAY-WAY better than any old school teflon tape
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:28 PM   #104
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Member#: 283968
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
2003 WRX


Originally Posted by rocketperson7 View Post
guys use this instead of teflon tape, works eleventy times better and won't ruin an engine if it somehow makes it into a galley:

Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post


are WAY-WAY better than any old school teflon tape
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:41 PM   #105
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 257231
Join Date: Sep 2010
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Hudson Valley, NY
2011 STI


Very cool mod!

Now is the thread sealant necessary on NPT threaded sensors? I'm worried about anything foreign working into the oiling system.
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Old 06-16-2014, 02:59 PM   #106
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Member#: 366915
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Asheville, NC
2006 FXT


Interesting thread. There is some good info here. Thanks a lot guys!
Piece of mind is important to me so I'll stick with automotive specific performance parts for things like the hose... especially when a kit is somewhere in the range of $40.
For those that have seen fluctuations in pressure (for example; high oil pressure during driving with a pressure drop at idle and/or low pressure at start up but the pressure raises once engine comes up to temperature); did you burp the oil pressure line to get rid of the air pocket? If so, how did you go about doing it?
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Old 06-16-2014, 03:02 PM   #107
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Member#: 89016
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
2005 Legacy GT Wagon


I used the line to fill my engine so mine was filled that way...

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Old 07-08-2014, 02:07 PM   #108
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Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp


So far so good after 2+ years....
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:18 AM   #109
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Member#: 325668
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Upstate NY
2002 WRX Wagon


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Old 07-17-2014, 02:49 PM   #110
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Member#: 335118
Join Date: Oct 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
2002 WRX sedan


Originally Posted by mgreen39 View Post
Just picked up a 1/8th inch grease gun hose off amazon for $5.35. I'll let you all know how the install goes.

Amazon.com: Lumax LX-1201 Black 12" 1/8" NPT 4500 PSI Thermoplastic Grease Hose: Automotive
I've been using that same one for a couple months now and it's working great. Can't speak for how it will handle through the winter though
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:56 PM   #111
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Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
2002 WRX Sedan
10.9s @ 126mph


I did the DIY $10 Remote Oil Pressure Sender mod today.

Prior to that I was running two 90 deg fittings to allow the ProSport pressure sender to clear the alternator. This was OK, except it wasn't screwed in real tight due to the necessity to be able to "clock" it for proper alternator clearance. Eventually it developed a small leak and it didn't seem like it was going to get any better, so I went for the remote install mod.

Here's a shot of the "before" setup:

I bought the parts from Home Depot. Online they show a 12" hose for $5, but in the store they only had the 18" hose that costs $9.62. The 1/8" straight coupler was $2.65 so the total with tax came out to be just over $10. If you order parts online, or go to Harbor Freight, you could probably do this for close to $5. I would keep in mind where you want to mount the sender, I think 18" is actually just about perfect.

Here's a shot of the parts:

First step is to remove the grease gun adapter from the end. It appears to be held on with red Loctite, but I got it off with just normal wrenches and no heat.

Here's a photo with it off:

Then just screw all the parts together. This is a mock up. I ended up deciding to put the strain relief spring on the end that goes into the galley plug and into the block. I figured there was more chance for stress there since it was hard mounted. I don't think it really matters though.

Here's a shot of it going into the block:

I ran it behind the alternator and zip tied it to the alternator wire's loom.

So far so good. Seems to be a great solution and much cheaper than the kits they sell. And waaay better than the two 90 deg fittings that I was using before.
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