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Old 01-30-2012, 08:52 PM   #1
Unabomber
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OMGHi2U How to wrap your header/uppipe

First off, the pros and cons of this mod.

Pros:
Easy
Cheap
Will help with heatsoak issues
Will stop you from visiting the burn ward while tinkering with your car

Cons:
Can/will void header warranty.
Can/will be a fire hazard if oil gets onto the wrap.

1. Purchase TWO Exhaust Wrap Kit #010126 by DEI on Amazon which should cost around $32 each. These are the 1" by 50' rolls. This wrap is called Titanium by DEI, but other companies sell it under the term "Lava", though the cheapest is from DEI. This is a new type of wrap, so FORGET your old wrap knowledge.
1a. I chose the 1" wide variety as it is easier to work with in complicated bends such as those found on headers. Feel free to substitute the 2" wide stuff and obtain lumpy wrapping on your header. The 2" stuff would be most suited to straight pipes such as downpipe or full exhaust.
1b. You can buy the stainless steel "zip ties" in two ways: 1. Like a moron and buy the $Texas DEI stainless steel "zip ties". 2. Visit Harbor Freight and order a package of IDENTICAL stainless steel "zip ties" the size of your mom for $2. I did both.....you know....as a teaching/visual aid.
2. This install could be done on the car, but it would be a super pain in the ass, so please do it off the car.
3. Assemble tools needed:



4. Since I was used to the old header wrap, I initially used the finest Chinese fabric scissors available from Dollar General. Then I discovered that even half way decent fabric scissors did little to the silicone fiber material. So, in keeping with using the right tool for the right job, I actually used the right tool which was found in my fiber optic tool kit out in the garage....Fiskars Kevlar Shears. These REALLY worked out terrifically, so ensure you have really good scissors if using this new wrap!





5. I started by wrapping the uppipe. Start at a flange and tuck under the excess "frayed end". Then do one full wrap covering the beginning.



6. Wrap one of the "zip ties" around the first wrap and pull it tight. These ties suck. Know this. They really just hold that first wrap secure and not much more. Yes....you can pull on them with the Wrath of Khan, but you can still spin them and slide them back and forth. So to combat this, and this will take some trial and error, you will have to hold the wrap tight with your left thumb while wrapping tight with your right hand. You will eventually see/feel that the strain on the wrap is not pulling the zip tied portion. Use 1/4" overlap on the wrap. For curved sections, use more overlap on the interior portion and less overlap on the outside of the curve. When coming to the end, I used two zip ties to cover the tucked in "frayed end".









7. Now I started on the header proper. Once again, start from a flange and work your way in.



8. If you want to get so mad you want to punch babies, enlist this as a helper whilst wrapping.

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Old 01-30-2012, 08:52 PM   #2
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9. Doing runner 1 in the same fashion as the others....Tuck, wrap, one tie, wrap with 1/4" overlap, more on interior curves...less on exterior curves, finish with two zip ties. It makes it MUCH easier if you have a custom length on the runners though rather than dragging 900 feet of wrap through the legs. In my case, I lucked out and after the uppipe and main header runner I had a 14 foot length of wrap left and it worked perfectly for this runner, so for all the other runners, I cut a 15ish foot section to work with rather than dragging the whole roll around the pipe with each wrap.



10. Being a wrapping badass means that I have to take the hard road, which is individually wrapping each runner. This particular set of runners had a decent sized gap so getting the wrap between the runners wasn't too hard.



11. Runner 3 was a repeat of runner 1.



12. Runner 4 was kind of a pain in the dick as the gap between the runners was much closer. I had to work in the wrap much like dental floss to make it overlap and in two cases it was just butted.



13. Now I have a joint o' stainless steel with a metric butt-ton of stainless zip ties looking all super haggard. So I decided to wrap the whole shebang like I would a sore shoulder with an Ace bandage. This covered all the unsightly zip ties and wrapped the entire "Y joint" so no more exposed metal. I finished with an old fashioned squared know cinched with the Wrath of Khan with one zip tie.







14. Finished. Took me probably 2-3 hours but I was REALLY taking my time and putting a big emphasis on form.



Final notes:

a. This new wrap requires no wetting to use.
b. This new wrap is not itchy and fiber filled like the old header wrap.
c. This new wrap will fray to hell and back, so be super careful with cut ends and cut any loose fibers.
d. This new wrap does not require sealing with high temp spray paint like the old header wrap.
e. I'd recommend wrapping the new wrap with household aluminum foil for initial install (especially if removing the turbo) to prevent any oil drips, spills, or leaks during installation. Once the leak check is satisfactory, yank off the aluminum foil.
f. The header you use may take more or less wrap than what I used due to:
.....a. You being a numbskull and wrapping with too much/too little of overlap
.....b. Your header has different length runners/overall length.
.....c. Your header does/does not include an uppipe.
.....d. You purchased 2" wide wrap like a numbskull.
g. When in doubt, buy too much wrap and too many ties and return what is not needed much like my wife does every week with bullcrap from Target.
h. If you want to ask "ZOMG....how much wrap is needed for XYZ header?", you obviously didn't read items f and g, go do so now then stand in the corner.

Last edited by Unabomber; 01-30-2012 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:53 PM   #3
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Post install notes:

The old style wrap smokes like crazy and smells like death.
The new style wrap smokes far less as it is more like steam that is evaporating from the wrap. It has an odor, but does not smell like death. It also only smokes for 2-3 heat cycles where the old stuff smoked for like a week.
I've only had this wrap on for 3 days but so far it is 900% better than the old stuff....will update later with longer term opinions as they come in.


***EDIT***

Wrap has been on for over a year now. 1 year anniversary notes:
I love this wrap more than my life
It is still flexible and not hard and crunchy like the old style wrap
It is still shiny and blingy looking though you can tell it has some age to it....I'd say it is 80% as blingy as day one
I have spilled oil on the wrap (like an idiot) and had some drips due to a leaking valve cover. The oil creates a smoking stain that will eventually burn off and the residue falls away so where the spills occurred, you really can't tell. It's like self cleaning with oil stains which is shocking.
Every mechanic of note that has seen this wrap on my car has fallen in love and has sworn allegiance to the brand.

***EDIT 2***

And two years of daily driving later:





Notice the area by the filter...I, like an idiot, spilled oil here and it created a silver dollar sized black stain. I soaked up as much as possible with a rag and cautiously fired up the car which promptly smoked like crazy for 30 seconds and then stunk like hell. For the first few days after that, there were wisps of smoke and I'll admit that the kitchen fire extinguisher was in my car for 3 months after that. Then when I did my next oil change....crazy happened.....the oil stain apparently burnt up and blew away! You can't even tell it happened.



Still shiny with very little crunch and lots of flex though the color has dimmed....maybe a metallic olive is the best color I can describe it as.

Last edited by Unabomber; 01-27-2014 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 01-31-2012, 12:14 AM   #4
dirtslayer
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the new fabric looks like I want it
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Old 01-31-2012, 12:22 AM   #5
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Awesome writeup.

Good to see you are rocking a nice set of headers these days.
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Old 01-31-2012, 12:29 AM   #6
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hows the smell?
i wrapped my tomei headers a few months ago, and still get a header smell at idle after running the headers hot for a bit. totally hate it...
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Old 01-31-2012, 01:45 AM   #7
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Great writeup.

I just bought some of that from autozone to do my downpipe, this really helped.
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:19 AM   #8
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great writeup
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:49 AM   #9
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I need to do this badly. lol
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:02 AM   #10
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how good is the wrap the tomei headers come with? ninja edit. this is the wrap im thinking about getting.
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:43 AM   #11
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Important note: always start your wraps at the lowest point in the pipe. Downpipes get start at the transmission and end at the turbo. Uppipes start at the header and end at the turbo. Headers start at the uppipe and end at the head.

This is so water doesn't work it's way behind the wrap. Think of how the shingles on your house work.

Also, I prefer hose clamps over those stainless zip style ties.
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
This is so water doesn't work it's way behind the wrap. Think of how the shingles on your house work.
Really? Really?


How long do you think that water would last on your pipes? My shingles are not super-heated by the magic of combusting gasoline.

I have been wrapping the opposite way for years and no problems.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:05 AM   #13
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Hose clamps are easier, but do not look the best after a while. I tend to use them to start and replace them with the SS zip tie for the finished product.

Thank you for the write up.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:13 AM   #14
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The SS zip ties are garbage. Mine came loose and didn't last. Replaced them all with hose clamps, no problems since.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:14 AM   #15
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UB, why you so angry?

And yeah, I'd use T-clamps with a fury instead of those 'zip ties'.

And what, ~$80 in materials? At that point I'd just look at getting ceramic coated.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:16 AM   #16
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T-bolt clamps are totally unnecessary lol
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
This is so water doesn't work it's way behind the wrap. Think of how the shingles on your house work.
Even if it doesn't matter, you gotta love the attention to detail. OCD?
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:16 PM   #18
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i did mine a while back...the TXS down pipe is already ceramic coated but i was still having heat issues with a burnt axle boot

i used the 2" wrap and i will say that 1" would be better...the 2" was a bit more difficult, but it worked
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:22 PM   #19
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For the UpPipe and Downpipe, 2" Wrap All the way.
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:27 PM   #20
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Just for some specific info, wrapping all the exhaust parts under my hood lowered the heat-soak of my TMIC by 27% and also made a noticeable difference in turbo spool and low end grunt... The last part is just my butt dyno info.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:12 PM   #21
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cool thread. ive been wanting to wrap my downpipe...
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:56 PM   #22
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Looks great Unabomber!

My wife does the exact same thing with returns every weekend to Target. What's the deal with that?
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:22 PM   #23
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Christ....if I had the gas my wife uses each week returning crap, I'd never have to buy gas again.
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:31 PM   #24
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Subscribed for future use.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:40 AM   #25
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Great write up- I cant tell by the images but make sure the tightly sewn edge is your shown edge. This will help with the looks of the material over time. The looped edge tends to show a little fraying more than the sewn edge.

Also for cycle pipes and other pipes always start at the tail pipe and work towards the motor. this will make the overlapped edges go with the wind flow vs. having the edges possibly become little parachutes.

DEI FTW YO
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