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Old 12-07-2012, 03:18 PM   #101
Dale2011WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IheartAWD View Post
two giant 50 foot rolls just for one header!? =./
Read.
He covered his up and downpipe with one 50' roll.
He hopes to cover his headers with another 50' roll.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:32 PM   #102
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Down side of wrap: I just had to cut all mine off a down pipe after a blown CV boot.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:48 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by tazswing View Post
Down side of wrap: I just had to cut all mine off a down pipe after a blown CV boot.
Why's that? (I'm not realizing something here!)
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:19 PM   #104
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Why's that? (I'm not realizing something here!)
id say it was covered in axle grease. exhaust and flammable grease are a bad combo last time i checked.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:22 PM   #105
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Thanks for the great write up, just did my up pipe and a 4th of my DP with a 2 inch x 25' roll.



My cheapo Chinese scissors worked fine after I ran a sharpening steel over them a few times.

Last edited by ubeflyer; 01-29-2013 at 10:44 PM. Reason: 2 inch wrap
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:14 PM   #106
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newb question but what will the wrap help with... you probably answered this in your write up but is it to keep the heat insulated around the pipes so you are not radiating heat to the rest of the engine. Thanks ill check back here shortly.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:27 PM   #107
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It will help greatly with engine bay heat, yes. it also helps keep your turbo spooled up as well.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:34 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by Half Crazed View Post
It will help greatly with engine bay heat, yes. it also helps keep your turbo spooled up as well.
nice but how often does oil drip on to these parts? i dont like the mention of fire in and around my engine

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Old 01-28-2013, 04:35 PM   #109
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Good question: but you must first ask yourself: "is my shi- leaking right now?" If it is, you should probably fix it before wrapping. Otherwise, oil should not be dripping anywhere.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:40 PM   #110
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Originally Posted by Half Crazed View Post
Good question: but you must first ask yourself: "is my shi- leaking right now?" If it is, you should probably fix it before wrapping. Otherwise, oil should not be dripping anywhere.
have not noticed any leaking so it would be safe to say i can go ahead with this mod. now if i do the headers i should do the UP and the DP. is it safe to just do i.e. the DP by its self is that even worth it?
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:44 PM   #111
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IMO: Do all 3 (headers, up, down pipes) or you're wasting your time. others may have something to say about this as well as i'm no expert.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:48 PM   #112
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IMO: Do all 3 (headers, up, down pipes) or you're wasting your time. others may have something to say about this as well as i'm no expert.
i ask this because i will be getting a DP in the next month then the Up and headers next so i was going to wrap the new parts and not waste time/money on wrapping the stock UP/Header
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:58 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by Varady360 View Post
i ask this because i will be getting a DP in the next month then the Up and headers next so i was going to wrap the new parts and not waste time/money on wrapping the stock UP/Header
I think you'd have a problem wrapping the stock parts.. they have heat shields iirc. also don't forget to get a tune asap if you get a new up pipe and headers... else you'll be running very lean and throwing cel's
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:59 PM   #114
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short of a CV boot tearing and spraying axle grease (as correctly stated above by 424wrx) or picking up crap from the road, the UP and DP stay rather "oil free."

The headers can be a different story. If you heat wrap your header you will need to be very careful when you change your oil. I cover my wrapped headers with aluminium foil for each oil change. Easy to manipulate with the tight clearance between the oil pan and runner. You can just wipe-off oil from heat wrap.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:04 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by Half Crazed View Post
I think you'd have a problem wrapping the stock parts.. they have heat shields iirc. also don't forget to get a tune asap if you get a new up pipe and headers... else you'll be running very lean and throwing cel's
i plan on buying a Cobb AP before i get a DP/UP/header

Quote:
Originally Posted by tazswing View Post
short of a CV boot tearing and spraying axle grease (as correctly stated above by 424wrx) or picking up crap from the road, the UP and DP stay rather "oil free."

The headers can be a different story. If you heat wrap your header you will need to be very careful when you change your oil. I cover my wrapped headers with aluminium foil for each oil change. Easy to manipulate with the tight clearance between the oil pan and runner. You can just wipe-off oil from heat wrap.
i get free oil changes from local dealership. ill have to tell them to watch out for that or just wrap it in foil before the short drive over there and ask them to take it off after.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:13 PM   #116
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cobb ap won't tune your car and you should also get an AEM UEGO (or any other wideband afr gauge) with the downpipe.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:27 PM   #117
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cobb ap won't tune your car and you should also get an AEM UEGO (or any other wideband afr gauge) with the downpipe.
if i get maps for it wont it?

i was planning getting the AP first then getting the rest of the what nots on it. and i was going to get the maps on it before i went stg2 so that when i did i could just flash and add the map to the ecu?

how much does the AEM UEGO fun for
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:40 PM   #118
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Please keep this thread on topic. There is ample information out there regarding what is needed/known for modifications and tuning. If in doubt and you are using a COBB product, ask them.

Thanks.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:42 PM   #119
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Please keep this thread on topic. There is ample information out there regarding what is needed/known for modifications and tuning. If in doubt and you are using a COBB product, ask them.

Thanks.
my bad will do

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Old 01-29-2013, 02:27 PM   #120
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has anybody tried using cv boot clamp tools to clamp down the wrap instead of trying to get the SS ties tight by hand? I'm gonna wrap my new setup in the next cpl weeks and was planning on doing it that way
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:36 PM   #121
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has anybody tried using cv boot clamp tools to clamp down the wrap instead of trying to get the SS ties tight by hand? I'm gonna wrap my new setup in the next cpl weeks and was planning on doing it that way
i've seen several people use the clamps. as for the ss ties - you can get them tight. i actually posted a way on how to do this with a screwdriver and some muscle. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...r#post38567080

look at the "PS" part
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:55 PM   #122
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ya I've done that on cv boot ties and still not quite how I'd like them cuz I'm very anal about doing things once and being done with it. I already have the tool for cv boot ties so ill let u know how it works on this
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:40 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Half Crazed View Post
i've seen several people use the clamps. as for the ss ties - you can get them tight. i actually posted a way on how to do this with a screwdriver and some muscle. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...r#post38567080

look at the "PS" part
That's a good method. I use the screwdriver in the slot, but then I grab the end of the steel tie and twist it around the end of the needle nose. Once it gets to the end you just keep twisting and it pulls it extremely tight.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:21 PM   #124
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That's a good method. I use the screwdriver in the slot, but then I grab the end of the steel tie and twist it around the end of the needle nose. Once it gets to the end you just keep twisting and it pulls it extremely tight.
Yes, that works really well.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:26 PM   #125
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Very nice and well detailed how-to!
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