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Old 02-06-2012, 02:30 AM   #1
v_khotsky
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2006 Yamaha YZF-R1

Default 08+ WRX/STI Remote Start

Ok guys I just Instaled a remote start on my 2012 STI. And sisnce that what i do for a living, there is nothing new for me , but i have seen many people wanna instal Remote Start, or Alarm system but afraid to burn something its not that hard , but there is few points to consider.
1 - If you dont know what` Positive +` and `Negative -` means - DONT DO IT!!!
2 - Get a proper wiring diagram.
3 - Get some tools - cutters, el. tape , etc.
4 - READ INSTRUCTIONS !!!!!!!
5 - Electrical probe - there is few types of them. then you working around ECM enviroment you want to use so called `no load`probe. Im usig `power probe` or you can use multimeter.
DO NOT USE TEST LIGHT! you will fry something.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Stuff i got -
Compustar CM6200 remote start w keyles entry
Drone Mobile GPS tracking and control unit
Fortin CanBus module.

Compustar offers a very user friendly modules, instalation guides and wiring diagrams , compare to some others XXX companies, you can spend hours trying to understand where wire goes
plus it gives to tons of options you can program

And Drone Module - well its a litle of show off you can track your car, lock/unlock, start or kill engine. from your phone or PC



ok so there is two ways of instalation - Hard wire and data line.
i did it with data line, and thats when you need Fortin module.
it conects to three wires (CanBus Data) at ECU an you get all outputs you need from that module - so no need to snich wires all over the car, plus you still have your arm/disarm chirp. And looks very clean.
-------------------------------------------------------
If you decidet to go hard wire option
there is the wires you will need
from 2008 t0 2012 there is same diagram


12 VOLT CONSTANT WHITE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 3

STARTER WHITE/BLACK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 2

STARTER 2 WHITE/RED (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 6

IGNITION 1 GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 1


ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLUE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 4

ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 5

KEYSENSE N/A

PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) BLACK/WHITE (-) @ LIGHTING SWITCHor BIU, (GRAY, 26-PIN PLUG), PIN 11,

PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BLACK/WHITE (+) in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, Harness to REAR of Vehicle

POWER LOCK LIGHT GREEN (-),TYPE B in DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BIU, (GRAY, 35-PIN PLUG), PIN 15,

POWER UNLOCK BLUE/BLACK (-),TYPE B in DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BIU, (GRAY, 35-PIN PLUG), PIN 29,

DOOR TRIGGER BLUE/ORANGE (-) in DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BIU, (GRAY, 35-PIN PLUG), PIN 19,

DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION GREEN/YELLOW (-) in PASSENGER A Pillar or BIU, (WHITE, 30-PIN PLUG), PIN 5,

TRUNK RELEASE GREEN/RED (-)(WAGON ONLY!), NOTE #3 in PASSENGER KICK PANEL or BIU, (WHITE, 28-PIN PLUG), PIN 24,



HORN BROWN to RED (-) @ HORN SWITCH or BIU, (WHITE, 30-PIN PLUG), PIN 29,

TACH Any wire NOT YELLOW/GREEN, RED or BLACK/WHITE (AC) @ Any FUEL-INJECTOR


BRAKE RED/WHITE or BROWN/WHITE to LT. GREEN (+) @ HORN SWITCH or BIU, (GRAY, 26-PIN PLUG), PIN 2,

FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS with FACTORY REMOTE ONLY!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

There is a trick with accesory wire - connect only one witch powers blower motor !!! then your stereo will come alive only when you turn the KEY !



and dont forget - you will need to hide a key under your dash for immobilizer.
so far no one i know makes immobilizer bypass for those cars

It took me 1.2 hours, avarage joe should be fine in 2.5-3 hours

let me know if you need some extra info
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Last edited by v_khotsky; 02-06-2012 at 02:36 AM.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:42 AM   #2
Ghostwhite
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Default

Will the CanBus module operate the Remote Start or does it just do doors?

I have a FlashLogic box wired up for my install but I need firmware, my local shop supports Idatalink. Will they be able to get Flashlogic firmware or install Idatalink firmware on my module as these two seem to be from the same company.

I am almost done with the CanBus module, all I have to do is get it to program corretly.
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:32 AM   #3
v_khotsky
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2006 Yamaha YZF-R1

Default

On car with ignition lock CanBus will do
Lock unlock
Trunk
Factory arm /disarm
Trunk trigger
Door trigger
Hand brake
Foot brake
Tach
-----
And you need to conned heavy gauge ignition wiring

-------
On "push button start " there is a bypass witch will do everything.
But i think you still have to hide fob inside bypass box.
-----
About flashlogic - you should be fine with soft. I use them very few time.
I pefer FORTIN modules. Very user friendly , diagrams are exelent , great online support. And you can update firmware with usb.
-----
I had ussue with firmware - sometimes antitheft where unable to read a key. So i update it , never had an issue since
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:11 PM   #4
Ghostwhite
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Well I have it flashed and I have it hooked up to the security box and the car and it still won't program correctly. Do I have to program the security before I do the canbus box? I wanted to get the CanBus done first.

I am using a 2011 sti flash on the flcan for my my 2012 sti, will this make a huge difference as they are the same car.
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:18 PM   #5
v_khotsky
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2006 Yamaha YZF-R1

Default

Canbus and security are separate. You can do security and canbus after.
2011 and 2012 have diferent firmware as far as i know.
Mu car is 2012 and i have fortin instaled
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:23 PM   #6
Ghostwhite
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Well I got it flashed for 2012, was the same firmware. Still having problems, I can't get past the 'installation mode' process on the module. As soon as I select data or w2w it glows green for a second and then starts flashing red, two blinks in sequence.

So at this point I don't even get to the actual ignition on sequence for it to learn
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:44 PM   #7
first suby 2010
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and 09 Forester XT

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The FW for 2011 and 2012 STi/WRX are the same for the Flashlogic modules and the iDatalink modules.

Are you trying to do the transponder bypass with the module or the convenience features (lock/unlock alarm arm/disarm etc)? You need one module to do transponder bypass and another to do the convenience features. The two functions reside in different CAN speeds (and thus wiring) in the vehicle, hence the need for two modules. Also, to do the transponder bypass with the module you will need to have it done by an authorized shop as the klon procedure is a two step process and can only be done by authorized dealers.

v_khotsky, you say you do this for a living? 1. ADS has had transponder bypass for the Subarus for 7 months or so now, in fact here is the original post. 2. Their convenience feature firmware as well as that of many other companies has been able to arm and disarm the factory security system thru data for years now... and 3. You can disarm the factory security without using a module by sending a valid key signal and ignition power upon unlock with an aftermarket alarm. You may want to have your stuff straight before claiming things cant be done, or that they dont exist, especially if you are saying that you do something for a living... This reflects poorly upon all professional car audio and security folks that DO actually do this for a living.
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:58 PM   #8
Ghostwhite
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I am using a Viper 5704, Flashlogic FLCAN, and 556U for immobilizer

I haven't started on the remote start functions or 556U yet because I wanted to get the FLCAN for doorlock interlace working.

My dilemma is I have the Viper wired to the FLCAN
12+ and ground to the viper
12+ and ground to the FLCAN
the four wires into the car.

I tried data to data between the viper and FLCAN
I tried wire to wire between the viper and FLCAN

either way I do it, I never make it past the installation mode select sequence on the FLCAN before it starts flashing red.

I reset the FLCAN, hook all connectors up, one click to get to the double green for w2w, hold till green lights, then it goes straight to flashing red in a double red sequence.

My firmware has been checked twice.

Any ideas?
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:04 PM   #9
first suby 2010
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Getting red flashing after mode (data or hardwire) selection is normal. It means the module is looking for more vehicle information. If you are wire to wire then you need to make sure ALL wiring shown in solid black is connected as shown in the diagram to get the unit to program, 5 wires total for type 2 install, and ALL dashed black and solid red lines are connected to the alarm. After you have everything hooked up as it should be follow the programming procedure and you should be fine.
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:07 PM   #10
Ghostwhite
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Thank You first! I traced it down to a pink ignition wire being hooked up to ignition 1 (-) instead of ignition 1 (+) like it should, my module never got the signal that the key was on.
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:24 PM   #11
first suby 2010
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Glad to hear you got it going.
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:05 PM   #12
Ghostwhite
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Now I am having Remote start problems, It will activate turn on ignition but instead of starting, it clicks off. It waits a few seconds and then does the same thing. Three tries and it gives up.
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:13 AM   #13
first suby 2010
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Heavy gauge green and violet wires going to the wrong side of the cut starter wire?
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:00 AM   #14
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Now I sorta figured that out, I t'd the red, red/black and red/white together. Now it will start for a second and die and repeat. I did tach learn before and it worked but I tried again and it won't work. I have tried with key in the ignition and key pressed up to it. I have tried green to key and purple to car and just purple to blk/wht
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:35 PM   #15
Ghostwhite
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I had to reset my flcan, relearn tach, change to tach mode. Now everything appears to be working, it starts just fine. I am going to get a relay wired up for the clutch, a relay for second acc for heater, wire my 556U and clean up my wiring.

Still have to mount the horn and shock sensor and hook up lights and brake.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:03 AM   #16
zpeedd3mon
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ghostwhite, I'm glad you got your's figured out. Not sure if I should start a new thread but since this all is relative I figured I'd just add on:

I'm doing the same setup in my 2008 STI. flcan with a viper 5901 and a 556uw bypass. I got everything wired in looking good and all programmed in. I can lock/unlock with the factory alarm disarm so I know the flcan is atleast working for that part. Now when I try to remote start it instantly sends back "REMOTE START ERROR" and then 7 clicks from the brain. 7 should be manual start sequence error but I've gone through several times trying to get the sequence learned but it doesn't seem to change anything. When I try to remote start while shutting down the system it just sends the same error message.

The other weird thing is that I tried to learn the tach (turn on, press hold val button 3 seconds) but it doesn't ever flash at me that the tach has been learned. I'm running everything D2D so the tach signal should be in there right? Any Suggestions?

Thanks.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:13 AM   #17
v_khotsky
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2006 Yamaha YZF-R1

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Check all outputs from obd interface (if u using one. )
Fortin interface usualy not giving brake signal for some reason , and with some systems you need to press and hold brake pedal to learn tach, so double check everything - brake , tach , door trigger , e brake and etc.
let me know
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:53 AM   #18
zpeedd3mon
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I'm just using the flcan Flashlogic unit d2d (not as the immobilizer)

Just going over it again it says that it does not do the brake just like the fortin model which I was mistaken on. I'll get that hooked up tonight and report back.


Quote:
Originally Posted by v_khotsky View Post
Check all outputs from obd interface (if u using one. )
Fortin interface usualy not giving brake signal for some reason , and with some systems you need to press and hold brake pedal to learn tach, so double check everything - brake , tach , door trigger , e brake and etc.
let me know
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:28 PM   #19
kevosti
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DGM

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Does anyone have a schematic for a clutch bypass switch?
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:14 AM   #20
v_khotsky
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2006 Yamaha YZF-R1

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevosti View Post
Does anyone have a schematic for a clutch bypass switch?
U mean how to do bypass on clutch ?

Tho switcheble outputs from relay - connect to cluch switch wires.
Then one of the power wires on relay goes to + (positive) ignition wire
And the second power wire connect to "second starter output" ONLY if module gives - (negative output), or u can connect it to "status output".
"ground when running" should work as well.
In this case bypass will be enabled only if remote started.
-----
If its hard to understand , i can give u terminals numbers (if u using standart relay)
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:40 AM   #21
zpeedd3mon
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ack!! I am at a loss here... I spent a couple hours going over everything and still cant figure it out. Here's my wiring... everything seem right?

Main 8 Pin Heavy Gauge Harness
Pink – Ignition one – to green wire on ignition switch
Red/White – 12+ constant – to white at ignition switch
Orange – Accessory 1 – to blue at ignition switch
Violet – Starter 1 – to white/black at ignition switch
Red – 12+ constant – to white at ignition switch
Pink/White – Starter 2 – to white/red at ignition switch – Changed to 2nd Starter
Red/Black - 12v constant – to white at ignition switch

5 pin relay as follows.
Pin 85 on relay – Connect to chassis ground
Pin 86 on relay – Connect to heavy gauge starter 1 wire (violet) on remote start unit
Pin 87 on relay – Connect to 12v constant (Green at ignition)
Pin 30 on relay – Connect to yellow at ignition switch


12 Pin Medium Sized Harness
Red – To 12+ constant
Black – To chassis ground
White – Parking light output – Negative Position
Orange – Ground when armed output to clutch relay (positive wire until clutch engaged, sending wire to ground)

Clutch Relay
Pin 85 on relay – 12v constant
Pin 86 on relay – to orange on 12 pin harness from remote start box
Pin 87 on relay – to chassis ground
Pin 30 on relay – to clutch wire

Smaller Harness
Brown – Brake shutdown, light green at biu
Blue – To key in the box bypass (DEI 556U) Connect to blue wire



For the FLCAN

I used these wiring instructions: http://www.flashlogic.com/support/ge.../guide_id/9782

Car -- FLCAN
Pink - CanH -- BRWN/RED
LT Green/Red - CanL -- BRWN/YELLOW
Yellow/Green - Keyless Data --
- KEY SIDE - WHITE/RED & ORANGE/BLK
- CAR SIDE - WHITE BLACK

Then D2D from Viper 5901 to FLCAN



Here's symptoms:

Initially I would hit the remote start and instantly it would vibrate and beep saying "remote start error" and then the brain relay would click 7 times for manual mode sequence not initialized.

I hooked up the brake output and also found I had hooked up my clutch wire to the wrong side so now I have it hooked up to the relay with the wire off the clutch which only goes to ground when completely pressed down.

I reset the FLCAN and re-learned the vehicle.

The problems:

1. When I try to learn the tach (turn on car and within 15 sec press and hold valet for 3 sec and light will flash) nothing happens. Does this mean that its not getting the tach signal? Should be coming through the flcan right?

2. Now when I try to remote start it now shows on the remote sending the signal, receiving a signal, and then a second until an "x" shows and it eventually shows "remote start error" and flashes 7 times. Getting somewhere I guess because earlier it didn't even think about it.

3. I changed over to auto transmission mode and tried remote starting it with the neutral safety grounded out and it flashed 8 times (neutral safety not receiving ground or remote start turned off). I made sure that it was a solid ground as well as toggling the remote start on an off. A couple time when I toggle this it would throw a "remote start error"


I am at a complete loss. I went through all my wiring and everything seems right but am I missing something? Is there something I should have connected that I dont? The remote start doesn't seem to even really try (dash lights coming on, relays clicking to start, etc.)

The arm/disarm door locks all work so I know that specific part of the D2D FLCAN is working but how about the rest?

Frustrating. Can anyone help? Thanks heaps!
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:19 AM   #22
v_khotsky
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2012 Impreza STI
2006 Yamaha YZF-R1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zpeedd3mon View Post
ack!! I am at a loss here... I spent a couple hours going over everything and still cant figure it out. Here's my wiring... everything seem right?

Main 8 Pin Heavy Gauge Harness
Pink Ignition one to green wire on ignition switch
Red/White 12+ constant to white at ignition switch
Orange Accessory 1 to blue at ignition switch
Violet Starter 1 to white/black at ignition switch
Red 12+ constant to white at ignition switch
Pink/White Starter 2 to white/red at ignition switch Changed to 2nd Starter
Red/Black - 12v constant to white at ignition switch

5 pin relay as follows.
Pin 85 on relay Connect to chassis ground
Pin 86 on relay Connect to heavy gauge starter 1 wire (violet) on remote start unit
Pin 87 on relay Connect to 12v constant (Green at ignition)
Pin 30 on relay Connect to yellow at ignition switch


12 Pin Medium Sized Harness
Red To 12+ constant
Black To chassis ground
White Parking light output Negative Position
Orange Ground when armed output to clutch relay (positive wire until clutch engaged, sending wire to ground)

Clutch Relay
Pin 85 on relay 12v constant
Pin 86 on relay to orange on 12 pin harness from remote start box
Pin 87 on relay to chassis ground
Pin 30 on relay to clutch wire

Smaller Harness
Brown Brake shutdown, light green at biu
Blue To key in the box bypass (DEI 556U) Connect to blue wire



For the FLCAN

I used these wiring instructions: http://www.flashlogic.com/support/ge.../guide_id/9782

Car -- FLCAN
Pink - CanH -- BRWN/RED
LT Green/Red - CanL -- BRWN/YELLOW
Yellow/Green - Keyless Data --
- KEY SIDE - WHITE/RED & ORANGE/BLK
- CAR SIDE - WHITE BLACK

Then D2D from Viper 5901 to FLCAN



Here's symptoms:

Initially I would hit the remote start and instantly it would vibrate and beep saying "remote start error" and then the brain relay would click 7 times for manual mode sequence not initialized.

I hooked up the brake output and also found I had hooked up my clutch wire to the wrong side so now I have it hooked up to the relay with the wire off the clutch which only goes to ground when completely pressed down.

I reset the FLCAN and re-learned the vehicle.

The problems:

1. When I try to learn the tach (turn on car and within 15 sec press and hold valet for 3 sec and light will flash) nothing happens. Does this mean that its not getting the tach signal? Should be coming through the flcan right?

2. Now when I try to remote start it now shows on the remote sending the signal, receiving a signal, and then a second until an "x" shows and it eventually shows "remote start error" and flashes 7 times. Getting somewhere I guess because earlier it didn't even think about it.

3. I changed over to auto transmission mode and tried remote starting it with the neutral safety grounded out and it flashed 8 times (neutral safety not receiving ground or remote start turned off). I made sure that it was a solid ground as well as toggling the remote start on an off. A couple time when I toggle this it would throw a "remote start error"


I am at a complete loss. I went through all my wiring and everything seems right but am I missing something? Is there something I should have connected that I dont? The remote start doesn't seem to even really try (dash lights coming on, relays clicking to start, etc.)

The arm/disarm door locks all work so I know that specific part of the D2D FLCAN is working but how about the rest?

Frustrating. Can anyone help? Thanks heaps!
7 flashes - manual mode error.
Crap, there was a catch with viper. I had same trouble on dodge with M/T
Ill check tomorrow when i get to the shop.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:55 AM   #23
SP2Flip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zpeedd3mon View Post
ack!! I am at a loss here... I spent a couple hours going over everything and still cant figure it out. Here's my wiring... everything seem right?

Main 8 Pin Heavy Gauge Harness
Pink Ignition one to green wire on ignition switch
Red/White 12+ constant to white at ignition switch***********
Orange Accessory 1 to blue at ignition switch
Violet Starter 1 to white/black at ignition switch
Red 12+ constant to white at ignition switch
Pink/White Starter 2 to white/red at ignition switch Changed to 2nd Starter
Red/Black - 12v constant to white at ignition switch

5 pin relay as follows.
Pin 85 on relay Connect to chassis ground
Pin 86 on relay Connect to heavy gauge starter 1 wire (violet) on remote start unit
Pin 87 on relay Connect to 12v constant (Green at ignition)
Pin 30 on relay Connect to yellow at ignition switch


12 Pin Medium Sized Harness
Red To 12+ constant
Black To chassis ground
White Parking light output Negative Position
Orange Ground when armed output to clutch relay (positive wire until clutch engaged, sending wire to ground)

Clutch Relay
Pin 85 on relay 12v constant
Pin 86 on relay to orange on 12 pin harness from remote start box
Pin 87 on relay to chassis ground
Pin 30 on relay to clutch wire

Smaller Harness
Brown Brake shutdown, light green at biu
Blue To key in the box bypass (DEI 556U) Connect to blue wire



For the FLCAN

I used these wiring instructions: http://www.flashlogic.com/support/ge.../guide_id/9782

Car -- FLCAN
Pink - CanH -- BRWN/RED
LT Green/Red - CanL -- BRWN/YELLOW
Yellow/Green - Keyless Data --
- KEY SIDE - WHITE/RED & ORANGE/BLK
- CAR SIDE - WHITE BLACK

Then D2D from Viper 5901 to FLCAN



Here's symptoms:

Initially I would hit the remote start and instantly it would vibrate and beep saying "remote start error" and then the brain relay would click 7 times for manual mode sequence not initialized.

I hooked up the brake output and also found I had hooked up my clutch wire to the wrong side so now I have it hooked up to the relay with the wire off the clutch which only goes to ground when completely pressed down.

I reset the FLCAN and re-learned the vehicle.

The problems:

1. When I try to learn the tach (turn on car and within 15 sec press and hold valet for 3 sec and light will flash) nothing happens. Does this mean that its not getting the tach signal? Should be coming through the flcan right?

2. Now when I try to remote start it now shows on the remote sending the signal, receiving a signal, and then a second until an "x" shows and it eventually shows "remote start error" and flashes 7 times. Getting somewhere I guess because earlier it didn't even think about it.

3. I changed over to auto transmission mode and tried remote starting it with the neutral safety grounded out and it flashed 8 times (neutral safety not receiving ground or remote start turned off). I made sure that it was a solid ground as well as toggling the remote start on an off. A couple time when I toggle this it would throw a "remote start error"


I am at a complete loss. I went through all my wiring and everything seems right but am I missing something? Is there something I should have connected that I dont? The remote start doesn't seem to even really try (dash lights coming on, relays clicking to start, etc.)

The arm/disarm door locks all work so I know that specific part of the D2D FLCAN is working but how about the rest?

Frustrating. Can anyone help? Thanks heaps!
Hi,

Verify again that all the wiring in the ignition harness is correct. Not sure if it is needed but directechs show that there is also a 2nd ACC wire (yellow).
To test the clutch circuit try remote starting the car with the clutch pushed in. The clutch switch is a white/blue or white/black (in), blue/white (out)and is a + N.O. switch. The clutch switch is a white 2 pin plug, pins 1 and 2. So I would just hook one wire to 30 and the other to 87, this will exactly reproduce what the clutch switch is doing.
As far as the tach wire...I believe the newer Viper remote starters come default for voltage sense or maybe even "virtual tach". You are going to have to get into one of the setup menus to change it to tach learn.
I would get the tach learning done 1st then check out the clutch. If that still doesn't do it, I would check the placement of the 555u. You can always disconnect the 555u, then place the key in the ignition switch(off position) then try to remote start. If it starts you know it's the 555u.
Of course do all these procedures with the unit set to "automatic mode", then you can set it to the manual setting after you get it running if you want.
All the manual transmission Subarus that I have done a remote start on I have used the neutral safety switch. It should be a green/black wire (-) and is located at the Engine Control Module below the glove box, white 35 pin plug, pin 31. You have to verify how this wire reacts to the shifter. To test turn the switch to IGN. If the wire is 12v in neutral and goes to ground in any gear you can hook up the hood pin safety wire(gray). If it rests at ground in neutral then opens when placed in any gear, hook up to your neutral safety wire from your Viper.
If you have any questions just let me know. You can always PM me your email and I can send you the tech notes.
Please verify all the wires are correct with a multimeter before hooking up the wires, I can't tell you 100% if these wires are correct unless I can verify it with a meter. So, what I am trying to say is that I am not liable if you blow your stuff up...hahaha. If you don't feel comfortable with the install, have a pro look at it.
Good luck, hope you get that bad boy starting right!
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:21 AM   #24
zpeedd3mon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SP2Flip View Post
Hi,

Verify again that all the wiring in the ignition harness is correct. Not sure if it is needed but directechs show that there is also a 2nd ACC wire (yellow).
To test the clutch circuit try remote starting the car with the clutch pushed in. The clutch switch is a white/blue or white/black (in), blue/white (out)and is a + N.O. switch. The clutch switch is a white 2 pin plug, pins 1 and 2. So I would just hook one wire to 30 and the other to 87, this will exactly reproduce what the clutch switch is doing.
As far as the tach wire...I believe the newer Viper remote starters come default for voltage sense or maybe even "virtual tach". You are going to have to get into one of the setup menus to change it to tach learn.
I would get the tach learning done 1st then check out the clutch. If that still doesn't do it, I would check the placement of the 555u. You can always disconnect the 555u, then place the key in the ignition switch(off position) then try to remote start. If it starts you know it's the 555u.
Of course do all these procedures with the unit set to "automatic mode", then you can set it to the manual setting after you get it running if you want.
All the manual transmission Subarus that I have done a remote start on I have used the neutral safety switch. It should be a green/black wire (-) and is located at the Engine Control Module below the glove box, white 35 pin plug, pin 31. You have to verify how this wire reacts to the shifter. To test turn the switch to IGN. If the wire is 12v in neutral and goes to ground in any gear you can hook up the hood pin safety wire(gray). If it rests at ground in neutral then opens when placed in any gear, hook up to your neutral safety wire from your Viper.
If you have any questions just let me know. You can always PM me your email and I can send you the tech notes.
Please verify all the wires are correct with a multimeter before hooking up the wires, I can't tell you 100% if these wires are correct unless I can verify it with a meter. So, what I am trying to say is that I am not liable if you blow your stuff up...hahaha. If you don't feel comfortable with the install, have a pro look at it.
Good luck, hope you get that bad boy starting right!
The tach can only go to virtual tach during Auto Trans mode on the new units.

Thanks for all the advice and trouble shooting procedures. On the neutral safety don't they normally go to either a ground or neutral safety wire (automatic) or parking brake (m.t. for sequence) ? I would like to have it setup for m.t. just in the rare event someone uses my car and decides to use the "cool remote start function" but doesn't put the car in neutral. I'll try and diagnose it in Automatic mode though and see what I can get it narrowed down to.

The one thing that is a concern is my clutch bypass relay. Here you said to connect both wires up, one to 30 and one to 87... I currently have:

pin 30 to switching clutch wire ( (+) at rest, (-) while engaged)
pin 87 to (ground)
pin 86 to (orange on remote start)
pin 85 to (+ constant)

Also, any ideas why I can't seem to get it to learn the tach?

If anyone else has suggestions too please let me know. I'm gonna give it a go again tonight so we'll see what happens then!
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:32 PM   #25
SP2Flip
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Hampton Roads
Vehicle:
2006 Tribeca B9

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I haven't heard that you could only use tach signal in manual mode. What model Viper do you have?
As far as the neutral safety goes if you hook it up correctly the car would not remote start even in the automatic transmission mode. Only a few manufactures actually have a neutral safety wire on their manual transmission vehicles so it is nice that Subaru does actually have one. You are correct about the neutral safety wire. The neutral safety wire will either be grounded when the car is in neutral or it will go to ground once you take it out of neutral. However you should check the wire using DC voltage on your meter. I believe the wire will show 12v (IGN key on) when the car is in neutral and will go to 0v when you put it in gear. If it does this you should hook the wire to the hood pin switch safety wire from the remote start (gray wire). The remote start will think the hood is open and will not remote start when you are in gear.
As far as the clutch bypass goes. Take a multimeter and set it to check resistance(ohms)...also make sure the car is off. Probe both wires coming off the clutch switch. You should get an open circuit. Once you push the clutch in the circuit should short. So by hooking up 30 to one wire and 87 to the other you will be exactly reproducing what the clutch switch actually does and not have to worry about what wire needs to be hooked up and what polarity it needs to be.
As far as the tach learn you should verify that the remote start is set to tach learn in the menu and you should also check to see if your tach source is viable. The idatalink is a great module to have, but sometimes I have found that it does not work 100%. To check the tach wire you should set the multimeter to AC volts and probe the tach output wire while the car is running. You should get at least 1.5 volts ac it will usually fluctuate when you push the gas pedal and raise the RPMs, but probably will not if you are using the FLCAN output.
LMK the model Viper you have and I will look at the installation instructions so I can help you get this sorted. Good luck man.

Last edited by SP2Flip; 10-16-2012 at 03:39 PM.
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