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Old 02-11-2012, 11:51 AM   #1
mmiller2002
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Member#: 159286
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon,Com-C
RCE wgn sprngs/Konis/H6

Default Front driveshaft boot - what are "EBJ and SFJ boots"?

I have a cracked front passenger cv joint boot. Before I decide to take it to a shop, does anyone know of any online tutorials with pics? Is the job hard for a diy-er?

In my manual, what does EBJ and SFJ stand for?

Thanks
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:20 PM   #2
Rally Monkey
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Silver

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That is very common because of the boots location to the exhuast. It's not hard to fix. You just pull the axle. The rebulid kit from Subaru comes with the boot, Grease, and metal band that hold the boot in place. There is probably a walk through on NASIOC. The manual has it as well. The CV joint is referred to as a DOJ in the manual. The part number for the boot is 28023AA011 and the grease and band are another package, part number X2321GA400. The EBJ (Bell Joint) and SFA (Shudder-less Freering tripod Joint) are naming the two boots on the drive shaft, the CV or DOJ is refering to the SFA side. This is all out of the manual under Chassis, Drive Shaft System, Front Drive Shaft. Exept the part numbers, the manual has some others, I go these numbers from a second boot and bands, grease, I bought a few years ago when i did my passenger front CV. Thought I was going to do the other side because one of the bands was loose but i ended up just cutting the band and putting a hose clamp on it, it's been 3 years at least, no problems.

Last edited by Rally Monkey; 02-11-2012 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:32 PM   #3
Scarface20
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I would just replace the whole axle for $50.
Here's the easy way:

Put car on stands
Remove sway bar end link bolt from control arm.
Remove cotter pin from ball joint nut
loosen ball joint nut (don't remove yet)
Smack welded seam of control arm near ball joint with hammer till joint pops loose of control arm
Remove axle nut and inner retaining pin (on trans side)
Remove ball joint nut and lift ball joint out of control arm (watch the ball joint boot and ABS sensor wire!)
Slide axle off of trans while puling outward on knuckle, then out of hub.

Just reverse for install minus the hammer part.

Note: the holes for the retaining pin are two different sizes as are the holes in the diff stub on the trans, line them up with the same size hole.

-Dylan @ DS1


My notes, after using this method:
-The nut is size 32 mm socket

-The torque is 137 Lbft, to tighten

-The holes in the stub are the same diameter, but if you insert the axle at 180, it won't allign with the hole in the stub by 1/2 spline.

-The tri-lobe in this car does not have "loose" rollers under the outer sleeves, much easier to deal with

-the name of the tool needed to properly tighten the OEM replacement clamps is Thriftool Band-it. I already had it from my Alfa Romeo days.

-The easy way to get the sway bar link back connected is to jack the hub under the tophat of the rotor. Once you get the link back in, the lower balljoint will stop turning with the nut as well, as you're trying to tighten .

-get a good balljoint press, this way you won't dammage the boot of the balljoint. I already had one from my mercedes.

-Get the axle back into the transmission first, lining up the holes, put the outer joint behind and over the hub. Slide the outer shaft into the splines of the hub, then get the hub nut started on the treads. Insert the lower balljoint, by pressing down on the a-arm. Then turn the axle 180 to have the pin insertion hole facing you.

-Block the hub with a flat screwdriver in the vents of the rotor, wedging into the caliper.

-For me, the proper torque brought back exactly the indentation of the nut where it originally was. I re-used the nut obviously.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:17 PM   #4
mmiller2002
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RCE wgn sprngs/Konis/H6

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Thanks for the good feedback. Honestly, that sounds like more than a 53 year old wants to do on his back in the driveway at this point...

Does it need to be a Subaru specialty shop job, or could a good general shop do it fine?

AutoZone reman shafts are under $100, but Subaru shafts are over $300, that's a big difference.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:33 PM   #5
Unabomber
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Location: I can save you a ton of cash
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on car parts so PM
me b4 j00 buy

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Any shop can do it or even better find a local in the TXIC forum that might do it uber cheap.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:01 AM   #6
mmiller2002
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2002 WRX Wagon,Com-C
RCE wgn sprngs/Konis/H6

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Thanks. If I'm a "while you're at it" kind of guy, is there anything else that I should consider?

Would there be any benefit to replacing both front driveshafts at the same time?

There seems to be some seepage where the shaft comes out of the transmission, is there a straightforward seal or something that can be replaced?

If the ball joints need to be removed, should I consider replacing them?

Thanks for any advice!
Mike
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