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Old 02-13-2012, 12:24 PM   #1
Cannibal
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Default Engine Cooling Issue

I'm having a problem where if I am driving my car, '05 STi, and go full throttle my temperature gage goes down. I read through the Coolant FAQ and thought it was maybe an air pocket in my system so I bled the system like it said to do. My car is still having the problem. I know the problem is not due to increased airflow over the radiator when going full throttle, higher speed, because the gage problem happens when I slow down and go full throttle as well. I talked to two different Subaru garages and they didn't have any clues as to what was happening. Anybody have this happen to them? I have a new OEM thermostat and new water pump from the Gates timing belt kit as of May 2011 so I don't think those are the problems. I can understand if the temperature went up but going down seems backwards. Please help.

Thanks.

Ben
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:13 PM   #2
Rally Monkey
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Maybe the gauge is acting up? Can't see why temp would or could go down fast and then back up.
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:05 PM   #3
Cannibal
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The gage is fine until I really get into the throttle. Only then does it do anything different than normal. Once the temperature on the gage goes down it then slowly comes back up as I keep driving. I would think that would mean that the gage was fine but I'm open to suggestions...

Could it be possible that the garage that installed my thermostat put it in backwards? I've read that is possible with aftermarket ones but didn't know if it was possible witht the OEM one.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:36 PM   #4
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By down what do you mean? During normal driving, is the gauge in the normal spot and then when you rev the engine to higher RPMs it goes lower than normal? Or do you mean it is running hot and then when you rev it, it goes down to the normal position?

Is the upper rad hose warm to the touch?
Are the fans running?

-mike


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Old 02-14-2012, 03:06 AM   #5
oguitar
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Might be an air bubble. Burp it and see.
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:02 AM   #6
Cannibal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZP Installs View Post
By down what do you mean? During normal driving, is the gauge in the normal spot and then when you rev the engine to higher RPMs it goes lower than normal? Or do you mean it is running hot and then when you rev it, it goes down to the normal position?

Is the upper rad hose warm to the touch?
Are the fans running?

-mike


11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.
Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.
AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber
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Mike,

I mean that the temperature showing on the gage goes down. I will be driving with the system up to temperature as showing on the gage and then the temperature gage will start to go down indicating the sytem temperature is going down.

Yes, during normal driving the gage stays in its normal spot. It's only when I go above about 4000 rpm's that the temperature gage drops. The temperature gage will drop at about that rpm regardless of engine load (this is something new I just found out). So if I get into the throttle hard and go above 4k the temp will drop but the temp will also drop if I just rev the engine with little throttle to above that rpm.

Engine will never go above the normal "warmed up" position on the temperature gage so it never overheats and never has.

Yes, upper rad hose gets hot.

I don't know if the fans turn on when I go specifically above 4k rpm's.
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:13 AM   #7
Cannibal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oguitar View Post
Might be an air bubble. Burp it and see.
I tried burping the system this weekend. Maybe I did it wrong...? I followed what was said in the thread linked off of the Coolant FAQ.

Here are the steps I took:

1) Let car sit overnight.
2) Removed cap from upper coolant tank near turbo
3) Squeezed and released upper rad hose to get air bubbles out. Got some but not tons.
4) Refilled upper coolant tank to full.
5) Started car with upper coolant tank cap off.
6) As engine warmed up, kept Squeezed upper rad hose. Maybe a few more bubbles.
7) Refilled upper coolant tank as necessary.
8) Turned heater on to max fan speed and max temperature.
9) Continued squeezing and releasing of upper rad hose.
10) Once got engine up to temperature I revved the engine up above the 4k mark.
11) At this point I noticed that the upper coolant tank was spilling over and there was lots of air in the coolant.
12) Refilled upper coolant tank.
13) Squeezed and released rad hose.
14) Repeated steps 11-13 two more times. Both times revving the engine the coolant coming out of the upper tank had bubbles in it.
15) Shut the car down.
16) Squeezed and released upper and lower rad hose and refilled coolant tank as necessary.
17) Let car cool overnight.
18) Refilled upper tank to full.

During the whole time that I was doing this the fans never turned on. However, I was in my unheated garage with the garage door slightly open enough to clear my exhaust and the outside temperature was in the 20's. I don't know if the system would really get hot enough in these conditions to cause the fans to need to kick on.

What do you think?
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:19 PM   #8
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I would get the car up to temp and make sure that the fans are running. That is the first thing. After discussing with the guys here at AZP, we are thinking that it has to do with a sticking open thermostat. If you had an air bubble you would be overheating during normal driving.

-Paisan



11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.
Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:34 PM   #9
Cannibal
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Thanks for the replies.

After getting the car fully warmed up, fans are running.

I did a little more experimenting and it seems that this problem with the temperature gage only occurs at certain times. Between the car being completely cold up to the point where the fluid temp has just come up to where it's supposed to be on the gage the problem will occur. After I have been driving the car for a while and the temp has come up to "normal" and I go high in the rpm's the problem won't occur. Does that make any sense with a sticking thermostat?
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:53 PM   #10
Cannibal
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Default

Anyone have any further thoughts on my above post. Please let me know. Thanks.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:34 PM   #11
Cannibal
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Just wanted to give an update in case anyone is looking through this thread in the future. The problem was my thermostat. Last year I had a shop install what I thought was a new Subaru thermostat. Took the thermostat out myself this weekend and it was not a Subaru one at all. This one was much shorter than the Subaru one and had no air bleed feature. I have no idea what kind the old one was. Couldn't really tell if it was stuck or not either. Replaced the thermostat with the Subaru one and now I have no more problems.

And as a quick pointer for anyone else replacing their thermostat in the future, get one of the spill less funnels. You can find them at Summit. This funnel screws onto the tank near the turbo and has a seal on it. You fill it with coolant and then let it sit there while you run the engine. The system fills and bleeds itself. Of course this is after filling the rest of the system through the radiator. I think this funnel was a big help in the bleeding procedure and made things far less messy.
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