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Old 01-05-2014, 05:58 PM   #501
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by averagewhiteboy View Post
I don't use a torque wrech on ANYTHING. lol I just tighten until I have to struggle to go further and leave it. Then a day or so later, just check the tightness. I did that on my Yakima Railgrab and it's solid as can be.
try to not use a torque wrench on an aluminum engine and let me know how that goes
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:13 PM   #502
r0dzilla7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
try to not use a torque wrench on an aluminum engine and let me know how that goes
A spark plug reference.......hand tight then a quarter turn with the wrench. Def need one for the lugs though.
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:07 PM   #503
flyboy1100
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Originally Posted by r0dzilla7 View Post

A spark plug reference.......hand tight then a quarter turn with the wrench. Def need one for the lugs though.
Just going "snug" on my motorcycle has stripped a few bolts. Pretty easy to do when the bolt is stainless and the torque spec is 40in/lbs.

I use a torque wrench on pretty much everything
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:25 PM   #504
averagewhiteboy
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I have been fine for my 8 years of driving and doing work this way thus far.. Oh well.. Knock on wood. lol
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:38 PM   #505
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Originally Posted by averagewhiteboy View Post
I have been fine for my 8 years of driving and doing work this way thus far.. Oh well.. Knock on wood. lol
What's your aversion to torque wrenches?

I know many people don't like Harbor Freight, but their tools are fine for the average shade-tree mechanic. Check out this torque wrench:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...rench-239.html

And if $22 isn't cheap enough, this wrench is typically on sale for $10. Just look in the back of almost any popular car magazine (Road & Track, Car & Driver, Motor Trend, etc.) and you'll find Harbor Freight coupons, and the torque wrenches are almost always on sale.

Is this wrench good enough for a professional mechanic? Probably not. But I don't need a torque wrench to be perfectly accurate. If I dial in 88 foot-pounds for my lug nuts, and it gives me somewhere between 85 and 90 foot-pounds, then I'm satisfied. But without the torque wrench, you're probably putting 110 ft-pounds on the lugs "just to be safe", and that's not doing you or your car any favors.

NOTE TO REMEMBER: You should only use torque wrenches to tighten, not to loosen. You will throw the tool out of spec if you use it to loosen. Instead, use a breaker bar to loosen, and then use the torque wrench to tighten.
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:18 PM   #506
averagewhiteboy
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I know HOW to use them. I just normally don't. I don't do internal work on motors or anything that is crucial to be exact. For the little work I actually do, it's just really never been necessary. I have an older Craftsman that works fine. It's just that not everything has to be to spec..

But to the original question, you're fine on the rack with non-torqued.
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:59 AM   #507
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Quick roof rack question. Might have the chance to purchase via Craigslist a Yakima Railgrab kit with 48" bars. Apparently they are used in good condition. Would $150.00 be a fair price? Not sure if locks are included. I would love to have a setup like this for my 13 Impreza Sport. Thanks!!
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:05 AM   #508
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I can't answer your question about the pricing for the Railgrab kit. But before you buy them, please confirm that the 48" bars will be long enough. I have a Thule system with 50" bars, and they're just barely long enough to span the front of my roof rails (the spacing between the rails is wider at the front of the car than it is in the back).
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:21 AM   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trek7.2FX View Post
Quick roof rack question. Might have the chance to purchase via Craigslist a Yakima Railgrab kit with 48" bars. Apparently they are used in good condition. Would $150.00 be a fair price? Not sure if locks are included. I would love to have a setup like this for my 13 Impreza Sport. Thanks!!
Sounds like a good price to me. Roughly half of retail. Not a steal though. Better if locks are included.
Depending on where you live locks aren't necessary, though they are good to have.
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:37 AM   #510
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Appreciate the info! Can anyone confirm whether the 48" bars will work on a 13 Impreza Sport?
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:37 PM   #511
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I just checked the list I have on my phone of stuff I have done to my car. The 48" bars are the correct size for our cars, for the Yakima round bars at least. Perfect size, fitment and utility. Making sure the bars didn't hang over the car was important since I'm 6'1". Even if there's no locks installed, they can be added easily, and for around $50 for a 4 pack. Word of suggestion though, add the fairing. The correct Yakima fairing size for our cars (with factory Sport rails) is 38". I would rather run without one, but the rack makes a terrible wind "howl" above like 35mph. Great package though.
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:51 PM   #512
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For what it's worth, my square Thule bars do not make wind noise on my car. I do not own or use a fairing.



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Old 02-12-2014, 02:15 PM   #513
averagewhiteboy
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My front bar is right around where yours is. My rear is back a little further. That's crazy though.. I'd figure the square would be more noisy..
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:54 PM   #514
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Thanks for the awesome feedback! I ended up buying the railgrabs with 48" bars without locks for $140. He threw in a Thule Peloton 517 for free. Is this a decent deal? Anyone familiar with the Thule 517? None of the equipment appears to have seen much use.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:46 PM   #515
averagewhiteboy
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I have no idea what the Thule thing is, but considering I paid double what you did for the same rack from REI when it was on sale, I'd say you did good. haha You can always add the locks later. It's easy enough to do. I mostly got them since I have street parking and want to prevent theft of my rack. lol
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:41 PM   #516
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I think I will pick up some locks at some point. Now I just need to find another bike rack for the wife and I'll be set! Amazing how much money Craigslist can save!
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:21 AM   #517
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I can't happen to find what the best setup is for my '14 premium sedan. Any help?
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:54 AM   #518
Saabaru81
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On Subaru's parts website they have the factory sport roof rail assembly for the right and left side that can be purchased. They are described as an exact fit for the year , make , model of my car.

I own a 2012 Impreza premium 2.0i Hatch 5dr. can these factory rails be installed to to my car or did Subaru make each and every one of these cars "special" ? ..... like their radios

has anyone done this? is it possible?
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Old 06-02-2014, 02:38 PM   #519
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I just want cross bars for my 14 sedan. Any options?
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Old 06-15-2014, 06:46 PM   #520
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Any options for my 4 door sedan??
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Old 06-15-2014, 06:46 PM   #521
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I just need the cross bars nothing else.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:32 PM   #522
averagewhiteboy
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Since you have a sedan, you need the ones for a naked roof. IE, the Yakima Q-towers or the Thule Whispbars.

Also, for anyone who wants a roof rack, I'm selling a complete Yakima Railgrab system.
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:23 PM   #523
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Thanks for the info. With the Q towers which crossbars do I buy to fit it?
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:09 PM   #524
averagewhiteboy
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My car uses the 38" ones, so yours should too.
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:34 PM   #525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by averagewhiteboy View Post
My car uses the 38" ones, so yours should too.
Im sure you meant 48".
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