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Old 10-19-2012, 12:30 AM   #3051
Wiznaz
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Was that the truck's tire? I'll have nightmares now.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:39 AM   #3052
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Good mornin fellas...
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:06 AM   #3053
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Yup, truck's tire.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:12 AM   #3054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jive Turkey
the sti understeered like a pig through hard corners. the only thing htat got it out is the buttloads of power. futher AWD sometimes is like driving autopilot. the driver input is sometimes so minimal. dont get me wrong i LOVE the sti and it's a monster, but the brz is just more of a drivers car IMO.
Sounds like a case of poorly tuned suspension, combined with inferior chassis you just essentially described my biggest issues with the GR.

Wuw for the wbo2?
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:06 PM   #3055
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I need some input if you guys don't mind.

Coil overs vs piston and rods for my next upgrade?
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:14 PM   #3056
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^^Shift knob
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:17 PM   #3057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreNetiC STi View Post
^^Shift knob
^^ LED interior lights!
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:20 PM   #3058
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Depends how much power you wanna make. STI rods are fine for 450whp. Pistons are maxed stock. lol
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:37 PM   #3059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiznaz
Depends how much power you wanna make. STI rods are fine for 450whp. Pistons are maxed stock. lol
Yeah, but if you're cracking the block open, you may as well do them while you're in there.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:57 PM   #3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcny
I need some input if you guys don't mind.

Coil overs vs piston and rods for my next upgrade?
Depends on budget also. If you're looking at coils in the $1,000 range, don't bother. Get a quality, high end coilover in the $1,800+ range. So, if you want to spend $1k, go with pistons and rods. $2k, then pick which one you want more.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:03 PM   #3061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcny
I need some input if you guys don't mind.

Coil overs vs piston and rods for my next upgrade?
Didn't you sell your last car because you took it too far and it wasn't comfortable as a DD anymore? Sounds like you're going down the same road again.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:06 PM   #3062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outphase84 View Post
Yeah, but if you're cracking the block open, you may as well do them while you're in there.
There are plenty of piston motors that lasted longer than full-build motors. If you're getting a high HP motor assembled by a competent builder then do it all but IMHO it's not worth the extra $1k for someone that wants to make 400whp on a low mileage car.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:23 PM   #3063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiznaz View Post
Depends how much power you wanna make. STI rods are fine for 450whp. Pistons are maxed stock. lol
Goal is ~400whp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donzo View Post
Depends on budget also. If you're looking at coils in the $1,000 range, don't bother. Get a quality, high end coilover in the $1,800+ range. So, if you want to spend $1k, go with pistons and rods. $2k, then pick which one you want more.
I have 2k+ I was thinking V1s for coils
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soarer View Post
Didn't you sell your last car because you took it too far and it wasn't comfortable as a DD anymore? Sounds like you're going down the same road again.
Your thinking of the wrong person? My last car was a bone stock Passat.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:26 PM   #3064
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Also I am going to do both eventually currently the option is which one do I want to do now since at this moment I can afford to only one of them.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:50 PM   #3065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcny View Post
Also I am going to do both eventually currently the option is which one do I want to do now since at this moment I can afford to only one of them.
Unexpected expenses could pop up when doing the rods and pistons. Sounds like you're better off with coils.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:13 PM   #3066
redpanda87
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Stack some more dough and do both...

Otherwise, I would Prly do suspension and brakes, before power modifications. No sense in going fast if it cannot handle or brake. One of the first things I did was get some hawks for my Wrx.

You have an Sti, so I would just do a high quality coil set up and save up for the engine components.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:01 PM   #3067
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Rule of thumb, don't build a Subaru motor. It's a very poorly designed motor. Stage 2 and a tune is all I'll ever do power-wise. Anyone that says otherwise isn't telling you how much time, money, headaches and motors they've gone through.

Is there a specific reason you decided on 400whp? Are you competing in any races? Why 400? Why not 350 or 300? Have you driven a Subaru with 350, 375 or 400 whp? It's not the best platform for high power. Start slow. go stage 2 with a Mikey tune and see how you like it. if you're still bored, get a fuel pump, spark plugs and a larger intercooler. Try a slightly larger turbo. There's no need to jump right into a 400whp build unless you really know what you're doing and/or you have more money than common sense.

Shoulda bought an Evo.

Last edited by Donzo; 10-19-2012 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:15 PM   #3068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donzo
Rule of thumb,
shoulda bought an Evo.
^^^^This.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:36 PM   #3069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donzo View Post
Shoulda bought an Evo.
Should have, I almost did.

It's Stage 2 already.

Also I've heard and read about ringland failure for stage 2 or higher. So I want to try and prevent that. ~400whp is a gradual thing not all at once.

Last edited by rcny; 10-19-2012 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:58 PM   #3070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donzo
Rule of thumb, don't build a Subaru motor. It's a very poorly designed motor. Stage 2 and a tune is all I'll ever do power-wise. Anyone that says otherwise isn't telling you how much time, money, headaches and motors they've gone through.

Is there a specific reason you decided on 400whp? Are you competing in any races? Why 400? Why not 350 or 300? Have you driven a Subaru with 350, 375 or 400 whp? It's not the best platform for high power. Start slow. go stage 2 with a Mikey tune and see how you like it. if you're still bored, get a fuel pump, spark plugs and a larger intercooler. Try a slightly larger turbo. There's no need to jump right into a 400whp build unless you really know what you're doing and/or you have more money than common sense.

Shoulda bought an Evo.
Some motors hold just fine. Mikey's rallispec motor held for 80k+ miles and was daily driven with multiple turbo setups and power levels.

With that being said a motor build will cost a considerate amount of money, parts, fluids, timing belt, misc gaskets, then you have a built motor with a stage two setup. have to factor in turbo injectors intake turbo inlet possible tgv deletes fuel pump etc etc...in the end it could run you alot more then you're guessing, especially for 400whp

Last edited by sexyyrex; 10-19-2012 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:19 PM   #3071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcny

Should have, I almost did.

It's Stage 2 already.

Also I've heard and read about ringland failure for stage 2 or higher. So I want to try and prevent that. ~400whp is a gradual thing not all at once.
My car has 400+ and still runs decent with no oil consumption at this time and is pretty badly beaten whenever I take it out...40k miles, 30r sized turbo with supporting mods, stock block.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:28 PM   #3072
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Mikey is also a tuner, has access to shop equipment, tools and staff and at a much less cost than if he was a regular customer. He eats, sleeps and breathes the business. He has so much more knowledge and experience with tese cars than most people. You can't compare the average Joe's car to a tuner's "shop car."

If a motor blows in a "shop car" the shop can have it rebuilt or a new one put in over night before anyone even knows about it and they can do it for much much less than if it was for the average Joe. Not to mention the knowledge they have. Regular maintenance is also something that's much easier for someone in the industry.

However, I've heard great things about RalliSpec blocks.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:34 PM   #3073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sexyyrex View Post
Some motors hold just fine. Mikey's rallispec motor held for 80k+ miles and was daily driven with multiple turbo setups and power levels.

With that being said a motor build will cost a considerate amount of money, parts, fluids, timing belt, misc gaskets, then you have a built motor with a stage two setup. have to factor in turbo injectors intake turbo inlet possible tgv deletes fuel pump etc etc...in the end it could run you alot more then you're guessing, especially for 400whp
I figured it's an expensive thing 10-15k job all in all but this just where I wanted to start out.

However I think I'll take the advice of saving up for the "build" and go for coils sooner than later.
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:34 PM   #3074
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$10-15k in mods... Jeez.
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:46 PM   #3075
singincanary
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Paying retail for those mods?
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