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Old 02-21-2013, 02:48 PM   #401
skets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacky599r View Post
Not just concerned with power, but trade off in spool. Besides, 2.5 is a billet wheel as opposed to cast in the 60-1 offered by kinugawa; there's without mentioned the former is a bb turbo
Why the billet wheel though? There is no significant difference in ability/rate of spool vs a cast wheel. Why not spend the money on something else?
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:27 AM   #402
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Yeah, that's y I am pondering to buy a kinugawa and use the remainder for meth or even cams. Just which will give me best bang for buck. How does Ye TD06sl2 60-1 10cm in twin scroll performs?
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:58 PM   #403
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Originally Posted by jacky599r View Post
Yeah, that's y I am pondering to buy a kinugawa and use the remainder for meth or even cams. Just which will give me best bang for buck. How does Ye TD06sl2 60-1 10cm in twin scroll performs?
Drop in K&N
Stock headers
2002 jdm sti spec engine
3" turbo back non cat

i have the TD06sl2 60-1 8cm non twin scroll. i running it on and made full boost of 22lbs @4800 3rd 6spd and holds to 8200rpm.

8cm will spool quicker than the 10cm. The 10cm will flow more top end.

I made 340whp on 90oct.

Billet wheel can weigh the same or even more if the design of the wheels are the same. The wheel can be lighter if the wheel is made thinner, since billet is stronger.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:12 AM   #404
gabedude
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I figured I would update this post. I am the largest procrastinator. The plan was to collect all the parts, pull my wife's engine for 100K mile service (built motor in an 06 STI w 100K on the motor) plus new clutch as first owner abused the stocker. Her motor is still sitting in the garage, but I swear it is going back in this weekend!

I am darn good and ready to take my motor out since I have gathered a slew of parts ($500 alone in fuel plumbing, filtering, and pressure control upgrades; NEVER buy Agency Power Fuel Rail kit).

As for the Kinugawa turbo, I am in the middle of upgrading to the larger TD06H turbine wheel (FP Red sized) and housing with the newer lighter STS type design (9 taller raked blades vs 12 smaller raked blades). Kinugawa also has an 11 blade TD06H sized turbine wheel that is an improvement in design compared to the regular TD06H 12 blade MHI turbine wheel.

The 25G wheel will be the same as in my original pics though (large billet 5x5 blades). I had a regular TD06SL2-25G CHRA for a bit (6x6 cast blade); assembled it; did some surface area calculations; then decided to go back to the 5x5 GTX billet wheel (the surface area of one small 5x5 blade had more surface area than one tall 6x6 cast blade). Overall, the 5x5 25GTX wheel has a good bit more surface area due to 2 main reasons; the center of the GTX wheel is ~2X smaller in diameter compared to the cast wheel and the billet blades are simply taller. Kamak used the same kind of design philosophy on the newest STS type turbine wheels - less blades, but larger overall which "exaggerates" for lack of a better word, the original blade design. For our smaller motors (these wheels were never designed for a 2.5L motor), the larger, more pronounced curve of each blade improves efficiency and relieves back-pressure allowing the wheel combinations to spool faster and simply flow more air as the design is changed from the original wheels. There are other "billet" compressor wheels on the market that are a straight copy of the cast wheel. This is why the optional GTX compressor wheels and reduced "lighter" turbine wheels offered by Kinugawa are worth the money. They are designed by Kamak, but by far, Kinugawa gives you the most choice in your turbo design. For comparison MAP EF series turbos are using the same parts from Kamak, but check out the price and the limited options. Not to bash MAP (returns are easier, fitment is guaranteed, and I still cannot identify the compressor wheels they are using [betting clipped 60-1]).

Bruce @ Kinugawa will really work with you and cut you a fair deal. He is pretty busy though, but reliable.

Oh and did I mention fuel rails? By far, Kinugawa carries the best designed top feed rails I have seen in the world.
  • -6 AN radiused fittings with o-rings
  • Radiused port fittings alone cost $6-$20 each from most places!
  • Rails are machined to accept a good o-ring seal with the fittings (just like my fuelab FPR)
  • The -6AN fittings have a backstop in the rail so when assembled, there is a straight barrel
  • One piece design (fittings excluded)
  • Injectors tops fit into "hats" that have stoppers preventing the injector from "poking" into the fuel rail barrel (just like stock rails with a bigger barrel) for a perfect, leak free seal
  • Only gripe is lack of choice for anodized color!

Rails can be bought here.

Kinugawa photo does not tell the whole story of how nice these rails are.



Here are some of the pics I took with my old injectors (injectors for sale on ebay, PM for discount)!



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Old 03-01-2013, 03:20 PM   #405
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I LOVE that color. I really appreciate a company like this, hopefully they'll be able to overcome the ebay-brand reputation that they undeservably received. For other big name companies, there's markup to stay in business and there's markup to drive smaller companies out/rape wallets
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:33 PM   #406
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Hey gabe, do you know if the .55 8cm billet upgrade for the td06 20g the same as you where describing for kamak?

Also ill be putting in my order for the turbo next week, ill get pictures once I get the turbo, then do a small review for fitment.

Thanks to this thread I was finally able to decide on a turbo!
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:37 AM   #407
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Iam somewhat dissapointed with my initial tests on the kamak TDO5 20gtx sts config. Iam not posting evrything yet, but the turbo would not hold boost to redline. Made upwards of 350whp on a mustang dyno, but was hoping for 400 at least. Looking into the heavier springs for the actuator.

I am working with Kamak on this now.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:41 AM   #408
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350 on a mustang? Nice work.

Edit: on a td05 non the less! 7cm or 8cm?

What boost pressure? It shouldn't have to hold boost, depending on pressure you need to follow Maf g/s
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:06 AM   #409
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8cm w/meth though, no timing, 20 psi, tapering down to like 16. i was making 338 whp with my hta68, so a little dissappointed right now.

spool is also a little late, working on it.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:24 AM   #410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011boostdwrx View Post
8cm w/meth though, no timing, 20 psi, tapering down to like 16. i was making 338 whp with my hta68, so a little dissappointed right now.

spool is also a little late, working on it.
Your mad that your 20g out flowed a bigger 47lb/min hta68 turbo?
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:55 AM   #411
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just really wanted a like 375+, Ill get there no problem, just need a little more fine tunning.

"Your mad that your 20g out flowed a bigger 47lb/min hta68 turbo?" i think mine is a 55lb/min?

Last edited by 2011boostdwrx; 03-03-2013 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:59 AM   #412
wrxsubiemod
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No way!

More like 44lb/min.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:06 AM   #413
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Really didnt know that thanks! So the HTA should have made more power? Was the same exact setup just a turbo swap. I thought 20G's were better.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:13 AM   #414
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i thought the HtA68 was a 16G, did i make a mistake and downgrade?
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:27 PM   #415
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No the HTA68 is a 16g pretty much a evo 3 big 16g, I think it is running a 7cm hotside?
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:37 PM   #416
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I was running a 8cm housing on my hta68. Tuner said I can get to 375+ no problem, I think I am getting a little used to it now, but i really want to get a better spring and better tune, the tuner said it is ultra conservative right now due to trying to control the wastegate right now.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:52 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostedbob View Post
No the HTA68 is a 16g pretty much a evo 3 big 16g, I think it is running a 7cm hotside?
What? A hta68 measures 51mm. Thats bigger than a 16g and 18g. Not to mention its HTA where the Evo 3 is just a standard Mitsubishi design
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:38 PM   #418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsubiemod View Post
What? A hta68 measures 51mm. Thats bigger than a 16g and 18g. Not to mention its HTA where the Evo 3 is just a standard Mitsubishi design
the hta68 is just a v1/2 wrx td05 16g with fancy compressor wheel. It is a mistu 16g.
just like their green is a 20g.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:12 PM   #419
wrxsubiemod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg33GC View Post
the hta68 is just a v1/2 wrx td05 16g with fancy compressor wheel. It is a mistu 16g.
just like their green is a 20g.
A green is not a 20g its a t04E wheel. Completely different turbos
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:08 PM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsubiemod View Post

What? A hta68 measures 51mm. Thats bigger than a 16g and 18g. Not to mention its HTA where the Evo 3 is just a standard Mitsubishi design
I have been led to believe by two shops that the 68 is similar to the evo 3, it's just fp's version that spools faster then the evo 3.
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:39 PM   #421
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Quote:
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I have been led to believe by two shops that the 68 is similar to the evo 3, it's just fp's version that spools faster then the evo 3.
I can send anyone physical measurement and tech data for any turbo. The 68 is larger than a 18g.

Tuning wise and and power output is dependent on setup and tune. Most people don't know a turbos flow rating to save their lives. They will go off of he said she said bull and end up with crap #s

A td05h should probably never be put on a 2.5.

A td06h is probably too big for a 2.0 but all this depends on power and spool goals.

Here's the thing, just because a wheel can flow that much doesn't mean it will.

Just because someone machined a Garrett wheel to fit a Mitsubishi housing doesn't make it a 20g lol

Just because someone fit a gtx3071 on a stock location turbo doesn't automatically make it a 2.5xtr.

Research your turbos before you buy! Ask questions about the actual flow rating with the given turbine wheels and housings..
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:30 AM   #422
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Originally Posted by abrumlev View Post
I LOVE that color. I really appreciate a company like this, hopefully they'll be able to overcome the ebay-brand reputation that they undeservably received. For other big name companies, there's markup to stay in business and there's markup to drive smaller companies out/rape wallets
They might in the USA, but like some posts below, someone will always come in and state "I made this on this turbo", changed turbos and I am now disappointed.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:44 AM   #423
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I am looking for the most cost effective upgrade for my 04 wrx without too much power to blow my stock engine or transmission. Would this Kamak be the best option under $800:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130345616682...84.m1436.l2649

18g TD05H 7 cm
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:03 AM   #424
gabedude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011boostdwrx View Post
Iam somewhat dissapointed with my initial tests on the kamak TDO5 20gtx sts config. Iam not posting evrything yet, but the turbo would not hold boost to redline. Made upwards of 350whp on a mustang dyno, but was hoping for 400 at least. Looking into the heavier springs for the actuator.

I am working with Kamak on this now.
First off, why did you even buy a turbo upgrade? Your stock turbo can make 375 WHP with exhaust mods and meth injection as long as you de-restrict the turbo back (3 inches no cats is always best).

You have not listed any other mods.

You wanted to hold X boost until redline. No turbo operates the same near redline as it does at 1/2 redline. This is why variable vane turbos were made, and you do not have one because they are not available for our cars.

This is what you have encountered in the tuning world my friend.

68HTA Hype.

Kamak STS Ultraboost Hype until proven otherwise.

Never buy a turbo on hype alone.

Bad idea. This is why I can make 484 FT/lbs of WTQ and 479 WHP running E85 on my 8CM^2 worn out Blouch TD05H-20G. I am hoping my new 6 puck disk and 2800lb pressure plate will hold he extra 100-140 WTQ and 100-110 WHP when I put my STS TD06H turbine wheel, 25GTX (5x5) and 3 inch ported inlet to the test at a peak P/R of 3.0~3.07:1 (I venture 80 ft above sea level to around 1700 ft above sea level). If you think this is not a realistic estimate for me before buying the turbo, then you have no business reviewing or comparing brand to brand turbos without any hard data. You could easily have made yourself an exhaust leak pre-turbo losing precious heat needed to spool the turbo during installation.

Last edited by gabedude; 03-04-2013 at 11:05 AM. Reason: Better described a "Bandwagoner"
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:16 PM   #425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestone View Post
I am looking for the most cost effective upgrade for my 04 wrx without too much power to blow my stock engine or transmission. Would this Kamak be the best option under $800:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130345616682...84.m1436.l2649

18g TD05H 7 cm
Go to Kinugawa.com and get a twinscroll 18G. I have tuned many 18Gs and 16Gs on the 2.0L. The 2.0L loves the 18G much more than the 16G, and especially with meth injection or even better, E85. Every EJ205 I tuned was stronger than my EJ257 when it had stock pistons. For cast piston motors, I would only want a 2L.
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