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Old 03-15-2012, 01:41 PM   #26
Mike 01Hawk
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OP Is a really dick head SNOB!



<-- Self proclaimed King Cheap Ass. I make decent $$$ too, but when I can get something for FREE!!!!one1! I just get all weak at the knees (and totally disregard the extra PITA it costs in gas money and time).
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike 01Hawk View Post
OP Is a really dick head SNOB!



<-- Cheap ass.


I actually went in to the store, asked which one they rent out (since it is typically the best-made one that they sell) and bought one of the unopened "loaner" tools that they had. They don't offer it on the floor or on the website as a regular for-purchase item, so most people don't see them.

I had purchased (online, using a coupon code) a different one and was there to pick it up, but I did not like it when I looked at it. It was a slightly upgraded version of the one that I broke.

The only good thing about the design was that the threaded rods were not bolts, like on the set that I bought. Thye were threaded rods that had an orafice (heh heh...heh heh) to fit a standard 1/2" socket/impact wrench.

One issue that I have had in the past is the tophat or bottom spring seat being in the way of the socket on the end of the threaded rod. With a 1/2" fitting on the end, you oculd eliminate that and allow for the use of extension bars (if necessary) to allow for more linear access to the end of the compressor rod.

Holy crap, this thread has gone off-topic...but still tangentially-related.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike 01Hawk View Post
I make decent $$$ too, but when I can get something for FREE!!!!one1! I just get all weak at the knees (and totally disregard the extra PITA it costs in gas money and time).
Same here, for some things. I will drive for 2 hours each way to save on shipping wheels and tires...despite the fact that it burns 10 gallons of gas @ $4 per gallon, plus puts 240 miles (and the associated wear) on my car. And takes 4.5 hours out of my life.

Some things these days I just pay to have shipped to me and billed to my FedEx account. It all depends on my schedule and my urgency. And how much money I have in my car/recreation fund.
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:26 PM   #28
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On topic note:

My Koni's came in the other night. They were pretty darn easy to push the rod in. I thought they'd be a b*tch to compress? Guess not eh?
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike 01Hawk View Post


On topic note:

My Koni's came in the other night. They were pretty darn easy to push the rod in. I thought they'd be a b*tch to compress? Guess not eh?
The harder you push them in, the harder they are to push in. Slow, steady pressure to depress or extend them is actually fairly easy. If you try to push or pull them quickly, they are much harder to move.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:49 AM   #30
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phenryev1 you never said what springs you were using did you? I"m looking into this for my STi with most likely H&R springs
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:22 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
The harder you push them in, the harder they are to push in. Slow, steady pressure to depress or extend them is actually fairly easy. If you try to push or pull them quickly, they are much harder to move.
It also helped that I had them on full soft. I put them to full firm and holy HELL... huge difference.

I know, I know... coolstorybro
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:34 AM   #32
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Finished the install this weekend. Updating with more assembly and install pictures.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:59 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Spoolinva View Post
phenryev1 you never said what springs you were using did you? I"m looking into this for my STi with most likely H&R springs
2011 STi front springs. 2008 STi rear springs.

Info added to post #1.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:21 PM   #34
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Question to the OP...

Do the rears come with the spring perches attached, or at least come included in the kit? I've looking at pics, item descriptions and all that where they are being sold, but there is no mention of this and pics tend to be general, not specific to the actual kit you'll be buying.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:33 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by cianuro View Post
Question to the OP...

Do the rears come with the spring perches attached, or at least come included in the kit? I've looking at pics, item descriptions and all that where they are being sold, but there is no mention of this and pics tend to be general, not specific to the actual kit you'll be buying.
Spring perches are included. The only things that I needed were the longer bolts and threadlocker, but many people did the install without the longer bolts.

I still need to update the writeup, but the Konis feel GREAT with the mixed STi springs.
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:28 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1

Spring perches are included. The only things that I needed were the longer bolts and threadlocker, but many people did the install without the longer bolts.

I still need to update the writeup, but the Konis feel GREAT with the mixed STi springs.
Ok. Thanks.
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:09 AM   #37
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Before


After


Suspension Mod List,(as of 3/30/2012)
Koni Shocks, H&R Springs, Whiteline control arm bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, steering rack busings, and rear sub frame bushings, AVO turbo 0.00 caster bushings, eibach 25mm front and 22mm rear 2 way adjustable sway bars with kartboy endlinks

Future Mods,
Group N motor, trans mounts and maybe pitch stop, and Whiteline rear diff busing inserts
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:38 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Silver08Waggs View Post
Suspension Mod List,(as of 3/30/2012)
Koni Shocks, H&R Springs, Whiteline control arm bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, steering rack busings, and rear sub frame bushings, AVO turbo 0.00 caster bushings, eibach 25mm front and 22mm rear 2 way adjustable sway bars with kartboy endlinks

Future Mods,
Group N motor, trans mounts and maybe pitch stop, and Whiteline rear diff busing inserts
Looks good. The drop looks very even with the H&Rs.

Are those '11-12 WRX wheels painted white? I really like how those wheels look. Not the most hugerist fan of them on silver, but I'd love to have them on my SWP.
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:50 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1

Looks good. The drop looks very even with the H&Rs.

Are those '11-12 WRX wheels painted white? I really like how those wheels look. Not the most hugerist fan of them on silver, but I'd love to have them on my SWP.
Yeah the wheels are '11-12 wrx wheels the kid I bought them from sparyed them white but I'm gonna get them powdercoated a semi flat white in a few months
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:01 PM   #40
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Yeah the wheels are '11-12 wrx wheels the kid I bought them from sparyed them white but I'm gonna get them powdercoated a semi flat white in a few months
Could you PM me a couple close-ups of the wheels? After seeing them on your car, I am really thinking about doing that to mine while they are off and the summer wheels are on.

I really wanted to do my summer wheels (gunmetal OZ ultraleggera) in white but I got impatient and put tires on them.

Back on topic, how do you like the ride of the H&Rs with the Konis? H&R won't publish spring rates, and to tell the truth, the 1.4"F/1.3"R seem like a big drop, but they look great on your car. The numbers just seem low.

I'd really like a 1" drop in the front and a 0.5" rear drop with rates around 300#/" if I was running the world.

Last edited by phenryiv1; 03-30-2012 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:20 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1

Could you PM me a couple close-ups of the wheels? After seeing them on your car, I am really thinking about doing that to mine while they are off and the summer wheels are on.

I really wanted to do my summer wheels (gunmetal OZ ultraleggera) in white but I got impatient and put tires on them.

Back on topic, how do you like the ride of the H&Rs with the Konis? H&R won't publish spring rates, and to tell the truth, the 1.4"F/1.3"R seem like a big drop, but they look great on your car. The numbers just seem low.

I'd really like a 1" drop in the front and a 0.5" rear drop with rates around 300#/" if I was running the world.
When I have some free time ill snap a few pictures with my nice camera of the wheels and as for ride comfort, amazing if I had to guess on full soft like between 20-30% stiffer then stock if that much... where are you located if you close we'll meet up and you can drive my car around to get an idea. I did my suspension with stock driveablitly in mind and I got that goal and then some
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:20 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
Measurements were taken from the center of each wheel to a point on the fender lip perpendicular to the ground. This measurement is the most consistent way to show height changes. While on stock suspension, I took two measurements (to ensure accuracy) while parked in each of two different locations and recorded my results. Then I took the same measurements after an alignment and 30 miles of driving. I will do the same in a day or so.

Before:
RR: 14.25" 14.375"
LR: 14.375" 14.25"
RF: 14.5" 14.75"
LF: 14.5" 14.5"

After:
RR: 14.5" 14.5"
LR: 14.625" 14.5"
RF: 14.125" 14.125"
LF: 14.0" 14.0"

So the rear came up by 1/8-1/4" while the front came down by about 1/2" when measured in the same parking spots.
So after a month or so on the new suspension, the rear dropped back to the original height. The '08 STi springs had only about 2K on them when I installe dthem, so it makes sense that thye would settle slightly as they broke in.

Front is still where it was...down about 1/2" from OEM.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:43 PM   #43
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Thanks for this great thread! Here are a few photos and comments from installing my rears today. Fronts will come soon.

Donor struts (09 WRX) and Koni's (in boxes).



Close up of the donors. Only using the rear top hats for this part of the install.



Drilling out the top hats to 1/2" for the Koni's.



Top hats drilled out, Koni's ready for assembly.



Koni's getting ready, and a close up of the RCE Black spring.



One assembled, and then both assembled.



Install went pretty well. I had just installed the RCE blacks on my stock struts a couple weeks ago, so I'd been through this whole process recently. Since I did already have the springs on the car, my first step was pulling the OEM struts and RCE blacks off the car, then taking the springs off and putting them on the Koni's.

I used the 2011 OEM bump stops and cut off the smallest lobe. I was able to get the bump stops on without drilling them out. I just pushed them on far enough to clear the threads on the piston. Then I installed the top hat loosely and used that for leverage to pull the bump stop on. It was very easy. Then I took the top hat back off and put the spring on.

I was able to press down on the springs by hand and get the bolt started onto the piston by myself. Having another person would make this a lot easier. When doing struts one tool you'll definitely want to have around is a go thru socket set. You pretty much need it to remove and install the top hats properly.

Once they were assembled, I put the top bolts through the car and loosely installed the nuts. Then I re-connected the lower control arms. After doing this a couple times recently, I've realized there's really only one order you can do it in that is relatively easy.
  1. Loosely install nuts on upper mounting points of strut.
  2. Press down on lower control arm and align lower mounting point of strut.
  3. Place bolt through lower mounting point of strut.
  4. Jack up lower control arm until outer hole lines up.
  5. Place bolt through hole.
  6. Adjust jack so endlink hole lines up.
  7. Place bolt through hole.
  8. Install nuts and tighten.
  9. Tighten upper mounting point bolts.
Step 4 and 5 are the hard ones. Looking at other guides online, you might not actually have to remove that bolt. It just makes it easier to get the strut in and out. If you leave that bolt connected, you'll have to use some muscle to get the lower control arm low enough to get the strut in/out. I'm not sure how difficult that is. Getting that bolt back in isn't too hard, but can be a little tricky.

Once I got it all back together and tightened down I went for a drive. The car feels great. I'll definitely need to wait until I get the fronts installed and drive around a while before making any final decisions though. But so far, so good!
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:32 AM   #44
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I also did the front Koni's with the help of Roger from NF Performance!

Donor struts for the front, all cleaned up (09 WRX).



Pipe cutter in progress.



Very clean cut!



Koni insert installed and then spring and top hat assembled.



Car back on the ground.



The fronts were a lot more work. Partially because I didn't have the right tools/setup when I started. I had a bench vice, but I never actually bothered to mount it to my workbench (more on this later). I started this install by finding the center of the strut and tapping it with a punch. I used a universal drill bit and drilled just far enough to punch a hole in the damper. It is under pressure so hydraulic fluid will spray out. Make sure to wear proper protective equipment.

So, once I had the hole made, I turned the damper upside down and pumped the piston in and out a dozen times or so. Until fluid mostly stopped coming out. I taped over the hole for the time being (to reduce the mess). Next I started in with the pipe cutter. I got most of the way through simply holding the vice with my feet, lol. Then the pipe cutter broke. One of the screws holding it together stripped out. When I went out to exchange the pipe cutter I also picked up some bolts to mount the vice to the bench. Drilled a few holes and bolted it down. Once I did that the pipe cutter was 100x easier to use. Haha. It didn't take too long and it was cut open. I pulled out the guts and finished draining it.

Then I flipped it over and got the universal drill bit back out and opened up the hole to 1/2" to allow the Koni bolt to fit through. The damper is a friction fit into the OEM strut (it has some nubs that hold it tight). You have to pound it into place, or use a bolt to pull it in. The stock bolt won't reach, so I bought a longer M12x1.5 bolt and a bunch of washers. I started with very few washers and tightened the bolt down to pull the damper into the strut. Once the bolt bottomed out in the damper I unscrewed it and removed washers. Repeat until damper is pulled all the way into place. Or at least close enough to use the Koni bolt (but I'd pull the damper all the way in with the larger bolt because the Koni bolt is an allen key and that's more likely to strip out). Torque down to spec (55 ft-lbs).

Then finish reassembling. We could not get it together without using spring compressors. I've heard other people can (maybe with different springs?). Once that is completely assembled, repeat for the the other side. It's not too difficult, but the pipe cutter takes some muscle, and the overall process is quite time consuming. We put the assembled dampers back in and set the camber bolts to max negative camber. Now that the suspension swap is complete I'll have to get re-aligned and see how it turned out. The 09 WRX struts should give me a little more negative camber than the 2011's would have.

Once we got the wheels back on and put the car back on the ground it was obvious it was lower than with the stock struts (same springs, RCE blacks). I measured the fronts at 13" from hub to fender (previously 13.5"). The rear is also 13" from hub to fender. I think it looks perfect. It is nearly identical ride height to how I had my coilovers set. Approx 1-1.5 finger width of fender gap. I set the dampers to 1 turn firmer than full soft. I think this is what Koni recommends for moderate aftermarket springs. I'm going to try it there for a while and see how I like it. I did go on a quick drive, and it feels really good. The car has so much better ride quality than the BC coilovers and still feels very planted in the turns. More thoughts will come after I've had the full setup in for a while.

Here are some shots of the ride height on Koni Adjustable dampers and RCE Black springs. 13" from fender to hub on all 4 corners.



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Old 05-02-2012, 10:32 AM   #45
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Also, this thread is great! It should be added to the Sticky!
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:35 AM   #46
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Here are some shots of the ride height on Koni Adjustable dampers and RCE Black springs. 13" from fender to hub on all 4 corners.



That stance is pure sex. Makes me want to go with RCE springs if I get the opportunity...

What wheel/tire size is that? If they are 17"s with a 235/ or 245/ tire then all the better.

I was worried that they RCEs might look like they have saggy-@$$ syndrome, but that looks nice and level.
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:02 AM   #47
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On the stock struts the rear was 1/2" lower with the RCE Blacks. The Koni's brought the front down another 1/2" and leveled things out. Also, I don't know if the Yellow's sit the same. A local guy has them, and they appear much higher from what I can tell.

The wheel tire setup is as follows:
Mach V Awesome 17x9" +42
Dunlop Star Spec 255/40R17
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:34 PM   #48
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Default Knocking Issue

I've been driving for several days on the new Koni's, and I'm starting to get a "knocking" sound on low speed bumps from the front driver side. Has anyone else had this issue?

Great write-up, and fairly easy install. I would add a metric pass-thru socket set to the list of things that are a must. It's impossible to tighten the nuts on the top hat without it. http://toolguyd.com/craftsman-max-ax...t-and-sockets/

Last edited by drawblood; 05-31-2012 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:29 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drawblood
I've been driving for several days on the new Koni's, and I'm starting to get a "knocking" sound on low speed bumps from the front driver side. Has anyone else had this issue?

Great write-up, and fairly easy install. I would add a metric pass-thru socket set to the list of things that are a must. It's impossible to tighten the nuts on the top hat without it. http://toolguyd.com/craftsman-max-ax...t-and-sockets/
Check the placement of the spring on the top and bottom perches. There are 2 holes on the top perch that need to be parallel to the vehicle when installing the shock.

If your arm fits, have a friend twist the steering side to side while you touch the spring and you'll probably feel it vibrating or knocking. Lift the car a little, just enough to fit your arm, but enough that the weight of the car is still on the tire. If it does, take the shock out and verify alignment of these holes.
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:21 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cianuro View Post
Check the placement of the spring on the top and bottom perches. There are 2 holes on the top perch that need to be parallel to the vehicle when installing the shock.

If your arm fits, have a friend twist the steering side to side while you touch the spring and you'll probably feel it vibrating or knocking. Lift the car a little, just enough to fit your arm, but enough that the weight of the car is still on the tire. If it does, take the shock out and verify alignment of these holes.
Thanks cianuro. Just to clarify...the holes your speaking of are the holes for that the rubber damper is held in place with, right (i.e. pressed into the holes and protrude through the perch)? Thanks again...
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