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Old 03-12-2013, 07:54 PM   #76
isotopesope
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my front excel g struts have a 2" OD where you would cut them.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:08 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by isotopesope View Post
the front '11+ wrx struts are also a half inch longer from the spring perch to the mounting bracket. i wanted to put stock 2012 wrx stuff on my 08, but am going to avoid it for the lack of negative camber and extra front height.
I did not know about the length difference. Great info!
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:04 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by 13FLGT View Post
I can only have one vehicle here in Italy and it's my DD. Finding Legacy Donor Struts is a pain in the you know what right now. Especially 2011's. That would be awesome. I guess I can search EBAY again.

but.....if anyone is selling their 08 Koni's let me know. I am in the market.

again, not sure why youre hung up on the 2008 model year. 2008, 2009, 2010 are ALL the same dimensions, both WRX and Impreza (just not the STi)
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:15 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
again, not sure why youre hung up on the 2008 model year. 2008, 2009, 2010 are ALL the same dimensions, both WRX and Impreza (just not the STi)
I'm not anymore just now sourcing for some.
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:46 AM   #80
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I know a member that selling his set. His donors are from a 2011 wrx. It has 27K miles on it. Price is decent. $700. But I know they have a sale on Koni's right now. I can pretty much get a brand new set and donor bodies for about the same price. He does have the Race Comp springs on there. But I am sure I can get the RC Legacy springs. What do you guys think?
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:52 PM   #81
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go with NEW over used. if you buy used, you give up one of the best parts of having KONI shocks. and thats the lifetime warranty.

although im not sure if the lifetime warranty applies to you in Italy or not. if it does, the DEFINITELY buy new.
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:48 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
go with NEW over used. if you buy used, you give up one of the best parts of having KONI shocks. and thats the lifetime warranty.

although im not sure if the lifetime warranty applies to you in Italy or not. if it does, the DEFINITELY buy new.
thank you! I think I will do that instead!
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:07 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by 13FLGT View Post
I know a member that selling his set. His donors are from a 2011 wrx. It has 27K miles on it. Price is decent. $700. But I know they have a sale on Koni's right now. I can pretty much get a brand new set and donor bodies for about the same price. He does have the Race Comp springs on there. But I am sure I can get the RC Legacy springs. What do you guys think?
wouldn't the extra length of the '11+ donors mess with your suspension geometry and lack of negative camber adjustment?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...7&postcount=56
i really thought gsrcrxsi set you straight on needing '08 to '10... NOT '11+.

i also REALLY don't understand why you're not using your existing struts as your donors.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:14 PM   #84
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What a good site to buy from? koni directly?
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:29 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by isotopesope View Post
wouldn't the extra length of the '11+ donors mess with your suspension geometry and lack of negative camber adjustment?
Yes, it would.

Quote:
Originally Posted by isotopesope View Post
i also REALLY don't understand why you're not using your existing struts as your donors.
Downtime, inability to return to stock, cost if he messes it up somehow...

I went with donor struts when I did this writeup because had I gone with my OEM parts as the cores I'd have been without my car for nearly a week.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:32 AM   #86
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What a good site to buy from? koni directly?
Turn in Concepts
IDParts
THMotorsports

Pretty much go into Vendor subsection, search for "Koni" and rech out to those vendors. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sear...rchid=37236817


But do it fast, because the annual sale ends soon.

Last edited by phenryiv1; 03-19-2013 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:53 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
Yes, it would.



Downtime, inability to return to stock, cost if he messes it up somehow...

I went with donor struts when I did this writeup because had I gone with my OEM parts as the cores I'd have been without my car for nearly a week.
this! That's the reason why I asked the questions. It also was confirmed on Legacy GT not to use my struts.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...nt-203685.html
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:41 AM   #88
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Follow the write up it took five min to do both front struts. Mark where to cut them put in vice cut with saws all put insert in and torque bolt slide rubber sleeve over and done...
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:45 AM   #89
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Follow the write up it took five min to do both front struts. Mark where to cut them put in vice cut with saws all put insert in and torque bolt slide rubber sleeve over and done...
Glad it helped. Did you press the insert in place or use bolts to draw it into the housing?
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:53 PM   #90
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Pushed them in and the bolt caught the the threads and pulled it down the rest of the way. You would be hard pressed to push them in with the nubs on the inserts
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:49 AM   #91
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Quick question: y'all are tightening the top hat while holding the piston in place with a hex key, but how are you doing final torque? Strut on the car then hit with torque wrench and hope you don't spin the piston?
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:04 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Quick question: y'all are tightening the top hat while holding the piston in place with a hex key, but how are you doing final torque? Strut on the car then hit with torque wrench and hope you don't spin the piston?
Two 1 second blasts usually is all i do once snug

Last edited by teiva-boy; 04-16-2013 at 02:56 AM.
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:55 AM   #93
phenryiv1
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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Quick question: y'all are tightening the top hat while holding the piston in place with a hex key, but how are you doing final torque? Strut on the car then hit with torque wrench and hope you don't spin the piston?
Unfortunately, the common DIY methods are the IW "blips" mentioned above or good-n-tight by hand.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:04 AM   #94
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or you can try to find a pass through torque wrench. im sure they exist, but i havent had any luck finding one.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:29 AM   #95
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or you can try to find a pass through torque wrench. im sure they exist, but i havent had any luck finding one.
You can use a crow's foot wrench attached to a torque wrench. Calculate the torque and adjust your torque wrench as needed.

http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:11 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by jay25RS View Post
You can use a crow's foot wrench attached to a torque wrench. Calculate the torque and adjust your torque wrench as needed.

http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm
I thought about using a crowfoot, but wasn't sure it would reach the outer nut as it sits inside the top-hat. A crowfoot is cheaper than a new interchangeable head torque wrench though...
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:02 AM   #97
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Crows foot won't fit.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:09 AM   #98
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Crows foot won't fit.
Didn't think so. Gudentite it is!
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:45 AM   #99
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if you could make your own "version" of a crows foot, that was a box end, and height offset, that would work.

sucks that some of these things dont exist for such a common thing to be worked on.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:27 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
if you could make your own "version" of a crows foot, that was a box end, and height offset, that would work.

sucks that some of these things dont exist for such a common thing to be worked on.
Something like an O2 sensor socket would be great. Gudentite's gonna be good enough I guess.
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