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Old 04-18-2013, 10:49 AM   #101
jay25RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
Crows foot won't fit.
Yes it will. Use a socket first on the nut and then grip the end of it with a crows foot. You can grind a couple of flat spots on the socket or use one from a pass through kit. Iirc, my harvor freight pass through socket set used a 3/4" hex pattern on the end of the sockets. I just used a crows foot to drive it and all was good. Make sure you use a very good allen key since it seems the threaded rod tenda to strip easily.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:15 PM   #102
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thats not fitting, thats making your own tool to work.

the crows foot will not work without a modified socket or some other aid. im not saying your method doesnt work, but saying the crows foot "fits" isnt correct IMO. you cannot get the crows foot directly on the nut.

but in the end, it can be done if you want to torque it, but as has been stated, you dont really NEED to provided you exercise some caution and dont blast away on it.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:11 PM   #103
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So is it normal for a strut to leak fluid from the adjuster when you're adjusting it?


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Old 04-18-2013, 08:44 PM   #104
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Yes. It's normal for fluid to slightly seep out. Keep an eye on it though. If a substantial amount of fluid comes out, you may need to RMA

Which sucks, cause RMAing right now would take forever.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:27 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
Yes. It's normal for fluid to slightly seep out. Keep an eye on it though. If a substantial amount of fluid comes out, you may need to RMA

Which sucks, cause RMAing right now would take forever.
Just strange that only one is weeping fluid then. Guess we'll find out if it's busted.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:48 AM   #106
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yeah its fine. mine seeps fluid from time to time, other times its bone dry.

Koni told me it was normal, but when one started leaking a lot of fluid (enough to cover to top bolt and leak down through the top hat) he agreed that it needed to be RMAd
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:55 PM   #107
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Just wanted to post a huge THANK YOU for this thread. I just finished my KONI inserts for my 2013 WRX and this info was invaluable.

Just a few highlights.

1) I agree the pass threw socket is the "right way" to get the OEM shock apart. I paid $19.99 for the whole set at harbor freight. However the KONI shock does not have an allen head. So it only allows you to see if the head is spinning during re-assembly.

2) I think a pipe cutter is a much better way to cut apart the OEM strut body than a hack saw or cut off wheel. My cut was clean and on the mark this way. However, the pipe cutter will leave a slight lip or crimp at the end. I then used a die grinder to radius the inside and it went together perfectly.

3) Using a longer bolt to "draw" the insert in is freaking brilliant.
I only needed one longer m12 bolt and some washers though. I believe some of the Koni failures may be due to people pounding them in with hammers. Just my humble opinion though.


Thanks again NASIOC

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Old 04-23-2013, 02:03 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP350Z View Post
Just wanted to post a huge THANK YOU for this thread. I just finished my KONI inserts for my 2013 WRX and this info was invaluable.

Just a few highlights.

1) I agree the pass threw socket is the "right way" to get the OEM shock apart. I paid $19.99 for the whole set at harbor freight. However the KONI shock does not have an allen head. So it only allows you to see if the head is spinning during re-assembly.

2) I think a pipe cutter is a much better way to cut apart the OEM strut body than a hack saw or cut off wheel. My cut was clean and on the mark this way. However, the pipe cutter will leave a slight lip or crimp at the end. I then used a die grinder to radius the inside and it went together perfectly.

3) Using a longer bolt to "draw" the insert in is freaking brilliant.
I only needed one longer m12 bolt and some washers though. I believe some of the Koni failures may be due to people pounding them in with hammers. Just my humble opinion though.


Thanks again NASIOC

JP
I am glad that it helped. And you are absolutely correct about the tubing cutter/pipe cutter. If anyone doing this has access to one, they should use it above any other option. I did not have one handy so I used the hacksaw but the pipe/tubing cutter is the best way to go.
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:10 PM   #109
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Posted too quick.

Last edited by OrbitalEllipses; 04-23-2013 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:04 AM   #110
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Great thread! I'm thinking about going the yellow Koni/ Black RCE spring combo in my 2013 hatch. My question is: how much negative camber could be achieved with the stock 2013 housings? It sounds like the maximum positive camber with the 2010 and previous housings is around -1.4 degrees. I would rather have freedom to adjust between -1 and -1.5 degrees. The other issue with later housings (I'm assuming) is ride height if the spring perch sits higher on post 2010 housings. What this actually is, I don't know. Anyone have experience (and photos) with 2011+ strut housings and Koni yellow inserts, and negative camber numbers achieved?
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:48 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isleblue65 View Post
Great thread! I'm thinking about going the yellow Koni/ Black RCE spring combo in my 2013 hatch. My question is: how much negative camber could be achieved with the stock 2013 housings? It sounds like the maximum positive camber with the 2010 and previous housings is around -1.4 degrees. I would rather have freedom to adjust between -1 and -1.5 degrees. The other issue with later housings (I'm assuming) is ride height if the spring perch sits higher on post 2010 housings. What this actually is, I don't know. Anyone have experience (and photos) with 2011+ strut housings and Koni yellow inserts, and negative camber numbers achieved?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2344784

your ideal thread. shows the difference between RCE blacks on stock struts and koni's using 08-10 strut bodies on a 2011 hatch. xluben's threads are top notch.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:52 AM   #112
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Use of the 2011+ stock housings will result in OEM-equal adjustability. You will have the range that you had with the stock setup.

With my pre-'11 housings the minimum negative camber that could be attained without camber plates was -1.4*

Last edited by phenryiv1; 06-26-2013 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:25 AM   #113
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thats pretty strange, Id think with the widebody, youd be able to get more.

i was able to get more than -1.5 with 08-10 housings on my 2010 (no additional camber, stock for me). i guess it will vary with how low or not low you are. i was lowered about 3/4-1"
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:40 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
thats pretty strange, Id think with the widebody, youd be able to get more.

i was able to get more than -1.5 with 08-10 housings on my 2010 (no additional camber, stock for me). i guess it will vary with how low or not low you are. i was lowered about 3/4-1"
That number that I had (-1.4*) was the LEAST amount of NEGATIVE camber that you could have. You could have more negative camber than that- I think up to just under 3* of negative camber- with the stock top mounts and stock camber bolts.
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:46 PM   #115
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Thinking of pairing the Konis with Swift Spec-Rs due to the price during the Koni Sale. Haven't seen people running this set-up yet...and it looks like it'll give about a 1" drop in the front and 0.5" drop in the rear

I am under the impression that rear camber cannot be adjusted at all unless I get LCAs or the Whiteline kit, is this correct? Are you guys not adjusting rear camber?

Also, is toe adjustable from the factory?
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:27 PM   #116
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toe is adjustable, camber is not.

i havent bothered trying to adjust the rear yet, since the bushing adjustment is a pain in the sack to adjust and install,

and the LCAs are $400-500, but a breeze to install and adjust.
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:57 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
and the LCAs are $400-500, but a breeze to install and adjust.
SPC LCAs will run you less than $300, even down to ~$220.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:02 PM   #118
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Yeah... But they suck. The stock arms are a more rigid design. I'm just not impressed.

I don't think they have as much adjustment as the cusco/gtspec arms either
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:48 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post

That number that I had (-1.4*) was the LEAST amount of NEGATIVE camber that you could have. You could have more negative camber than that- I think up to just under 3* of negative camber- with the stock top mounts and stock camber bolts.
3 degrees of negative camber sounds like quite a bit with just stock top hats and stock camber bolts. I've had my mechanic and several others tell me that about -1.5 is the max I could go with my Konis and RCE Yellows...
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:25 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by jpatt006 View Post

3 degrees of negative camber sounds like quite a bit with just stock top hats and stock camber bolts. I've had my mechanic and several others tell me that about -1.5 is the max I could go with my Konis and RCE Yellows...
He's using the 08-10 WRX strut housings (or was).

The 08-10 housings have a shorter tab, which when used on a 2011+ WRX has the effect of giving you more negative camber, by about a degree.

If you use the stock 2011+ bodies you won't get any more camber than stock.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:50 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post

He's using the 08-10 WRX strut housings (or was).

The 08-10 housings have a shorter tab, which when used on a 2011+ WRX has the effect of giving you more negative camber, by about a degree.

If you use the stock 2011+ bodies you won't get any more camber than stock.
Ah, well I guess that explains it.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:22 PM   #122
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Does anyone have experience running Koni Yellow inserts with stock springs on a WRX Hatch? I have a 2013 HB. I'm probably going to stick with my stock 2013 strut housings as -1.5 deg camber is as far as I will ever go.

It's 90% DD, 9.5% weekend backroad sports car and 0.5% Autocross or track car.

Appears to be very little posted on this setup.

Thanks
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:58 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isleblue65 View Post
Does anyone have experience running Koni Yellow inserts with stock springs on a WRX Hatch? I have a 2013 HB. I'm probably going to stick with my stock 2013 strut housings as -1.5 deg camber is as far as I will ever go.

It's 90% DD, 9.5% weekend backroad sports car and 0.5% Autocross or track car.

Appears to be very little posted on this setup.

Thanks
It is going to be fairly similar to my setup, just slightly more comfortable and slightly higher. If I had not found my STi takeoff springs I'd have stayed with the stock WRX springs.

As a matter of fact, I believe that my 2008 STi rears are identical to the 2011-2013 WRX rears. Only my fronts (1/2" lower and slightly stiffer) are different.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:21 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isleblue65 View Post
Does anyone have experience running Koni Yellow inserts with stock springs on a WRX Hatch? I have a 2013 HB. I'm probably going to stick with my stock 2013 strut housings as -1.5 deg camber is as far as I will ever go.

It's 90% DD, 9.5% weekend backroad sports car and 0.5% Autocross or track car.

Appears to be very little posted on this setup.

Thanks
That is basically what I running right now till I go full AST/camber plates. Very comfortable setup. I usually stay around .5 to 1 turn away from full soft for daily driving.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:35 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
It is going to be fairly similar to my setup, just slightly more comfortable and slightly higher. If I had not found my STi takeoff springs I'd have stayed with the stock WRX springs.

As a matter of fact, I believe that my 2008 STi rears are identical to the 2011-2013 WRX rears. Only my fronts (1/2" lower and slightly stiffer) are different.
had i not also went with 2011 STi springs (front, and rears with a spacer i made to make them work), i would've paired my koni's with some 2012 WRX springs i initially bought to upgrade my car. 2008 WRX springs are suuuuuper soft.

seems like a great setup if you don't want to lower your car and mostly use it for DD duties.

2009+ WRX and 2008-2010 STi springs have identical springs rates.
217# front and 194# rear.

2011+ STi springs are 250# front and 297# rear.
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