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Old 06-27-2013, 03:40 PM   #126
Isleblue65
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Good to know, and thanks for the feedback guys. I wondered if the car would sit a little lower with stock springs and Konis because the Konis are not gas charged, just oil filled, and OEM shocks being gas charged, in conjunction with the spring force would apply some amount of upward force? Probably not enough to make any difference, but I wondered.

I'll at least give this setup some time and decide if it's the way to go for the long haul.



Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
It is going to be fairly similar to my setup, just slightly more comfortable and slightly higher. If I had not found my STi takeoff springs I'd have stayed with the stock WRX springs.

As a matter of fact, I believe that my 2008 STi rears are identical to the 2011-2013 WRX rears. Only my fronts (1/2" lower and slightly stiffer) are different.
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:12 AM   #127
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I installed the Konis all around, and what a difference! The swaybars made a huge difference in the handling from stock, but it still felt unsure while cornering, and the car bounced and rebounded on the stock struts. The Konis tranformed the handling. Even with stock springs and ride height, the car has a new level of confidence around corners. Very impressive.

I also found this nifty little tool at Harbor Freight (exhaust pipe cutting tool) for cutting the front strut tubes perfectly and cleanly.

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Old 07-31-2013, 09:07 AM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isleblue65 View Post
I installed the Konis all around, and what a difference! The swaybars made a huge difference in the handling from stock, but it still felt unsure while cornering, and the car bounced and rebounded on the stock struts. The Konis tranformed the handling. Even with stock springs and ride height, the car has a new level of confidence around corners. Very impressive.

I also found this nifty little tool at Harbor Freight (exhaust pipe cutting tool) for cutting the front strut tubes perfectly and cleanly.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-l...2010.54.38.jpg
I saw that HF tool and wondered how it would go for applications like this. I was hesitant to order it but clearly it worked for you, so maybe not a bad thing to have around. I need a pipe gutter for exhaust anyway, but I don't think that the HF one goes large enough for my 2.5" exhaust.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:19 AM   #129
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
I saw that HF tool and wondered how it would go for applications like this. I was hesitant to order it but clearly it worked for you, so maybe not a bad thing to have around. I need a pipe gutter for exhaust anyway, but I don't think that the HF one goes large enough for my 2.5" exhaust.
As a matter of fact, it will cut up to 3 1/4". On the downside, the plastic handle twisted off toward the end of my first strut tower cut-off, so I had to use vise grips on the knurled knob for the remainder of the job. I'll exchange or return them to HF. But I was glad I had it for this job!

Cuts 2'' to 3-1/4'' exhaust pipe
Capable of making out-of-round cuts
Includes four high carbon steel cutting wheels

Last edited by Isleblue65; 07-31-2013 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:19 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isleblue65 View Post
As a matter of fact, it will cut up to 3 1/4". On the downside, the plastic handle twisted off toward the end of my first strut tower cut-off, so I had to use vise grips on the knurled knob for the remainder of the job. I'll exchange or return them to HF. But I was glad I had it for this job!
HF is total ****ing junk. broken on the first use seems to be typical for that trash. i really don't understand why people spend any money there. tools are investments, not costs to be cut.
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:35 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isotopesope View Post
HF is total ****ing junk. broken on the first use seems to be typical for that trash. i really don't understand why people spend any money there. tools are investments, not costs to be cut.
True but you have to weight the cost vs amount of time you will use it and what its for. For example I wouldn't buy a torque wrench or ratchet from HF but I have bought a cheap saws all, heat gun, and reciprocating type saw for removing tile grout. They have all worked great and have not been more than $30 for any of them. Anything that's gonna take a beating and be used a lot I will buy a goof brand though.

Oddly enough I have used my saws all many times for many different types of wood and metal still going strong after two years of use I didn't expect that. Just know you are buying disposable tools though.
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:55 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isotopesope View Post
HF is total ****ing junk. broken on the first use seems to be typical for that trash. i really don't understand why people spend any money there. tools are investments, not costs to be cut.
Simple cost:benefit analysis. I have 2 sets of tools- the ones that I leave in the garage and the ones that I take to the track. If I lose one of my cheap HF impact sockets at the track, I replace it.

If you don't plan to use something many times, why spend hundreds of dollars to buy it just to use it once? I might need a pipe cutter one time. Same for many basic tools that make a job easier but are not 100% required.

Further, not everything that they sell is junk. I have many HF tools that have worked perfectly over many years of DIY service. I have their cheap aluminum race jack, master ball joint kit, several sets of impact sockets, impact extension bars, brake line wrenches, trim removal tools, lifting straps, and (gasp!!!) torque wrenches. Would I rebuild a motor using the HF torque wrenches? Maybe. But all of the other stuff gets regular use and shows no signs of issues. Even the pass-through sockets from my first post in this thread are from HF and I would say that the job is notably more difficult without them.

To be truthful, I have bought some absolute junk there as well- spring compressors come to mind. But even their use-once-then-replace-under-warranty items (like the pipe cutter mentioned above and a ball joint separator that worked great for one suspension refresh but appears to be stripping out) are useful on a cost:benefit basis.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:14 PM   #133
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good points gents... and i don't mean to derail your excellent koni install thread, phenryiv1.

i suppose it really is a cost-vs-use equation that needs to be considered. if the tool needed is TRULY a one time use, i suppose HFingJunk tools can fill that disposable need. though reading on various message boards and hearing stories from guys i know, SOOO much stuff bought at HF craps the bed before the first job is even completed.

i'm not saying we should all be using high dollar snap-on/matco/mac etc "professional" tools for every single tool we need as DIYers; it's just that HF has such a terrible track record with a lot of the crap they poop out, i wouldn't want to risk it on ANYTHING from them.

i personally just ground wrench flats onto some of my random lower quality sockets to install my koni's, rather than acquiring pass-thru wrenches. git-aRe-dun style. i also used a 1/2" torque wrench i recently bought at ace hardware... because my 3/8" inexpensive taiwanese-made craftsman one finally broke awhile back. (because i was using it for an application where i should've been using a 1/2" drive)

are our cars the last cars we hope to work on? probably not and hopefully not. i am still using the autozone spring compressors i bought 11 years ago when i installed koni's on my civic. they've assisted me with several suspension installs. certainly not the best out there, but they get the job done and i trust them for many more installs. had i bought the HF equivalent, would i have already needed to replace it? probably so. sounds like you had a bad experience with theirs. also, your ball joint separator was good for a single use and i imagine you could want to use it again down the road...
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:24 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isotopesope View Post
good points gents... and i don't mean to derail your excellent koni install thread, phenryiv1.

i suppose it really is a cost-vs-use equation that needs to be considered. if the tool needed is TRULY a one time use, i suppose HFingJunk tools can fill that disposable need. though reading on various message boards and hearing stories from guys i know, SOOO much stuff bought at HF craps the bed before the first job is even completed.

i'm not saying we should all be using high dollar snap-on/matco/mac etc "professional" tools for every single tool we need as DIYers; it's just that HF has such a terrible track record with a lot of the crap they poop out, i wouldn't want to risk it on ANYTHING from them.

i personally just ground wrench flats onto some of my random lower quality sockets to install my koni's, rather than acquiring pass-thru wrenches. git-aRe-dun style. i also used a 1/2" torque wrench i recently bought at ace hardware... because my 3/8" inexpensive taiwanese-made craftsman one finally broke awhile back. (because i was using it for an application where i should've been using a 1/2" drive)

are our cars the last cars we hope to work on? probably not and hopefully not. i am still using the autozone spring compressors i bought 11 years ago when i installed koni's on my civic. they've assisted me with several suspension installs. certainly not the best out there, but they get the job done and i trust them for many more installs. had i bought the HF equivalent, would i have already needed to replace it? probably so. sounds like you had a bad experience with theirs. also, your ball joint separator was good for a single use and i imagine you could want to use it again down the road...
Clearly, you are logical and understand where I was coming from. And you are right- if you need the tools multiple times, you better consider the cost of buying them once (and getting the right tool) or buying cheap and either replacing often and/or risk it breaking halfway through the job.

As for the spring compressors they were crappy hooks mounted on all-thread with a pin welded to hold the nut on one end. I needed them in a rush and I was cheap and I actually spun the nut off after a few uses. Fortunately I ALWAYS work with the compressed springs flat on the ground and aimed at an inanimate object (wall) and away form people, vehicles, etc. The welded/pinned nut gave way and the compressor simple fell apart (the other compressor was still attached, though loosely)

See here for the info: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3&postcount=22

Had I known that I could buy the more solid "rental" version from Advance for $40 I would have done that the first time.

As for the ball joint separators I saw the tool while I was in the store and snagged one on a whim. I kept the receipt and can swap it out for another one (or return it) but after using one I will never "break" ball joints without them- HF brand or otherwise. I had never seen them before but now that I know that they exist I see that more reputable brands carry a similar tool.
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:07 AM   #135
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I installed Koni's on my MY12 hatch yesterday using stock front housings. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be, i cut the housings with a combination of a hacksaw and Dremel Multi-Master. I misaligned the bottom bolt hole on the first one but was able to grind out the hole with a regular dremel pretty easily.

I am getting some clunking in the front over larger bumps which I can not figure out. I took them both out this morning to double check the springs were seated properly on the upper perches and that everything is tight. There is the possibility that it is my front endlinks, I put a 25mm front sway on last weekend but those bolts are as tight as I can get them as well.

At this point, I am several hours of troubleshooting into this and I'm tempted to throw in the towel and have the shop i bring it to for an alignment try to find the problem but I'm not entirely confident they will have any better luck then I will.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:46 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RR View Post
I installed Koni's on my MY12 hatch yesterday using stock front housings. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be, i cut the housings with a combination of a hacksaw and Dremel Multi-Master. I misaligned the bottom bolt hole on the first one but was able to grind out the hole with a regular dremel pretty easily.

I am getting some clunking in the front over larger bumps which I can not figure out. I took them both out this morning to double check the springs were seated properly on the upper perches and that everything is tight. There is the possibility that it is my front endlinks, I put a 25mm front sway on last weekend but those bolts are as tight as I can get them as well.

At this point, I am several hours of troubleshooting into this and I'm tempted to throw in the towel and have the shop i bring it to for an alignment try to find the problem but I'm not entirely confident they will have any better luck then I will.
Update: I couldn't let it go so I went out and pulled the sway bar off, no clunk. Re-installed, clunk. I'll have the alignment shop tighten it up tomorrow.
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:12 PM   #137
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Quote:
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Update: I couldn't let it go so I went out and pulled the sway bar off, no clunk. Re-installed, clunk. I'll have the alignment shop tighten it up tomorrow.
What endlinks?
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:21 PM   #138
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Stock, I suspect the 25mm bar may be too much for the stockers to handle.
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:31 PM   #139
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I had to go with KB endlinks with my 25/22 setup and even then I get some noise.
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Old 11-24-2013, 06:00 PM   #140
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I had to go with KB endlinks with my 25/22 setup and even then I get some noise.
Thanks for the tip!
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Old 11-24-2013, 06:38 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RR View Post
Thanks for the tip!
See these threads:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2210270

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2170254

I went through a lot of effort to rid the '11 of the front end clunk and in the end I still had some issues, but on a cost:benefit analysis having the noisy sways & endlinks (and their monetary cost) is justified by the improvement in driving feel.
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:03 AM   #142
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the need to cut 40mm off of the OEM housing



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Old 11-25-2013, 09:42 AM   #143
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the need to cut 40mm off of the OEM housing



Huh??
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:13 AM   #144
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thinking of doing this. anyone have problems on the wrxs with to much tension on bearings and things like that due to change in height?
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:43 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by mxblaster292 View Post
thinking of doing this. anyone have problems on the wrxs with to much tension on bearings and things like that due to change in height?
What crack pipe are you smoking? No there is no such issue. However go too low with something like coilovers and prepare your Angus on this forum... Many prefer functional, not fashionable.
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:30 PM   #146
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Koni and Tire Rack is having a Koni 25% off sale. $582 shipped from Tire Rack.
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:00 PM   #147
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Koni and Tire Rack is having a Koni 25% off sale. $582 shipped from Tire Rack.
Pretty good deal there.
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:18 PM   #148
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Bump! Looking to do this in the future...
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:14 AM   #149
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Default Top hat seal

Hello all I just installed yellows with rce yellows.

The shock is protruding significantly farther up through the top hat compared to stock, can you post some pics of how you sealed the bearing and to make sure I didn't do something boneheaded with my install.

Thank you all,

Roper
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:34 AM   #150
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I trimmed/cut a hole in the dust cap. The adjuster protrudes through the cap.
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