Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday September 20, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > Car Audio, Video & Security

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-21-2012, 08:34 PM   #26
speakerpimp
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 241673
Join Date: Mar 2010
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Spark Silver

Default

Killer damping job!! coming along nicely.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
speakerpimp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 08:39 PM   #27
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Default

When I put the door card back in, I was really happy because it clipped properly into place, but also because the system sounds incredible.

I have been playing around A LOT with different settings on the headunit(HU), dialing in the sound. At the moment, the cross-overs are set at the reference level for both the woofer and tweeter. I have the loudness turned all the way down on the HU, as well as the bass-boost off. The HU also includes a 'Sonic Center' feature that adjusts time-delay which will move the soundstage around. This isn't really my thing (especially for a passenger), so it's off too.

My iphone is running the program called EQu which is a nice parametric EQ ( a feature that should really be standard).

At this time, the project is on-hold, waiting for me to pick an amp and install it. After this, I will get back out into the car and continue to document.

I will hopefully grab some more FFT (SPL (freq vs dB)) readings on the highway for comparison. That is if I can reach 110 kph..

My future plans include:
-Purchase and install an amp
-Active crossovers?
-RTA to tune said cross-overs
-Add sound dampening/insulation to the wheel-well covers and interior

Hope you enjoyed it..

also I asked before, anyone know about the Alpine MRX-F30?
56k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 08:56 PM   #28
chithead
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312018
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Charlotte,NC
Vehicle:
2014 WRX Hatch
SWP

Default

That's a nice small footprint amplifier.
chithead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2012, 10:27 PM   #29
Subirex09
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 207880
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CT
Vehicle:
2013 STi
Awesome SWP

Default

Very nice job, I am hoping to seal the doors of my '11 as thoroughly as you are. The sheet metal was one of my worst fears, but it sounds like it went pretty smooth. I've been dreading the work it will take to get the doors damped properly, but I will surely be using some of your ideas as references.

Can't even imagine how good that sounds all damped up!
Subirex09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2012, 09:15 PM   #30
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subirex09 View Post
Very nice job, I am hoping to seal the doors of my '11 as thoroughly as you are. The sheet metal was one of my worst fears, but it sounds like it went pretty smooth. I've been dreading the work it will take to get the doors damped properly, but I will surely be using some of your ideas as references.

Can't even imagine how good that sounds all damped up!
I was really surprised how tight the woofer response turned out to be. Also, the only rattle that I ended up having was the dome light (easily fixed).

Initially I wasn't sure how long it was going to take me, but all in about 8 hours per door. Just wanted to be patient and do it right the first time.

I'm also looking into adding a 10" sub, for some low end extension. The only problem is that more energy into moving air means more vibration, damping required and rattles!

The fiberglass boxes by Audio Integrations look great, that will probably be the way to go.. Anyone have experience with the quality/rigidity of these enclosures?
56k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2012, 10:41 PM   #31
Subirex09
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 207880
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CT
Vehicle:
2013 STi
Awesome SWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 56k View Post
I'm also looking into adding a 10" sub, for some low end extension. The only problem is that more energy into moving air means more vibration, damping required and rattles!

The fiberglass boxes by Audio Integrations look great, that will probably be the way to go.. Anyone have experience with the quality/rigidity of these enclosures?
As a matter of fact I do! I love this enclosure, I have had it for quite a while now and would highly recommend it. I installed it in my '09 before I traded it in and transferred it into my '11 in October. Very rigid, excellent build quality. Heavy but not overly so, just a nice weight to it.

It sounds great...of course I have tons of rattle because I haven't damped a thing yet : ). I think I am going to plan on doing second skin damplifier pro on the trunk floor and rear deck and then I want to top the layer on the floor with one of the loaded vinyl sound barriers to keep out some exhaust noise.

As long as you pick put a good sub that will work well in that enclosure size, or you add styrofoam or something into the enclosure to take up space if it is too big for the sub you pick, and of course power it right...that sub will sound beautiful. It already does pretty well with all the rattles, I can't wait to sound deaden the trunk floor and get some additional db's out of it.
Subirex09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2012, 10:46 PM   #32
Subirex09
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 207880
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CT
Vehicle:
2013 STi
Awesome SWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 56k View Post
I was really surprised how tight the woofer response turned out to be. Also, the only rattle that I ended up having was the dome light (easily fixed).

Initially I wasn't sure how long it was going to take me, but all in about 8 hours per door. Just wanted to be patient and do it right the first time.
Yeah I have heard that sealing the doors makes a huge difference for midrange woofer response. I have been dragging my feet in getting it done for a few years now, but you are quite the inspiration.

I think this is the year though. An aftermarket component-less front stage is getting very stale for me these days.
Subirex09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2012, 10:41 AM   #33
phenryiv1
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 91212
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Vehicle:
2011 WRX 5DR
Satin White Pearl

Default

Great job on this install. For people reading and following along, the deadening in this install is a great idea of what can be done with patience and the right materials. You can do more or you can do less, but this is a great place to look at how to lay out the materials.

Also, the use of the XTC baffles is a good idea. I woudl have bought one pair an dcut them into half-circles, then used weatherstripping to make the speaker sit flush, but cutting out the half-bowl just costs $10 more. Chump change when you look at total costs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subirex09 View Post
The sheet metal was one of my worst fears, but it sounds like it went pretty smooth. I've been dreading the work it will take to get the doors damped properly, but I will surely be using some of your ideas as references.
In place of sheet metal, I intend to use a lexian or lucite. You can buy sheets of regular plexiglass at Lowes or home Depot, but I found that the pphysical properties of Lexian and Lucite were better then regular plexiglass, so I went that route. They also don't have nearly the same resonance as sheet metal.

Both are VERY expensive but I went to a local window and glass shop and bought remnants for about 1/20th the cost of a large sheet. I paid $20 for about 300 square feet- just in small sections.

I use the materials to make the 1/4" version of my spacers but I have some big sections that I set aside to use to seal off the large areas in the doors.
phenryiv1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2012, 04:27 PM   #34
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subirex09 View Post
As a matter of fact I do! I love this enclosure, I have had it for quite a while now and would highly recommend it. I installed it in my '09 before I traded it in and transferred it into my '11 in October. Very rigid, excellent build quality. Heavy but not overly so, just a nice weight to it.

It sounds great...of course I have tons of rattle because I haven't damped a thing yet : ). I think I am going to plan on doing second skin damplifier pro on the trunk floor and rear deck and then I want to top the layer on the floor with one of the loaded vinyl sound barriers to keep out some exhaust noise.

As long as you pick put a good sub that will work well in that enclosure size, or you add styrofoam or something into the enclosure to take up space if it is too big for the sub you pick, and of course power it right...that sub will sound beautiful. It already does pretty well with all the rattles, I can't wait to sound deaden the trunk floor and get some additional db's out of it.
I was thinking about a 10W6 with the AI enclosure, since I'm more interested in quality over quantity. Although, powering this at 500Wrms I will probably have plenty of both!

The AI box size seems to match well with the specs on the JL site and I hear that the driver depth will just fit in the enclosure.
56k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2012, 04:41 PM   #35
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
Great job on this install. For people reading and following along, the deadening in this install is a great idea of what can be done with patience and the right materials. You can do more or you can do less, but this is a great place to look at how to lay out the materials.

Also, the use of the XTC baffles is a good idea. I woudl have bought one pair an dcut them into half-circles, then used weatherstripping to make the speaker sit flush, but cutting out the half-bowl just costs $10 more. Chump change when you look at total costs.

In place of sheet metal, I intend to use a lexian or lucite. You can buy sheets of regular plexiglass at Lowes or home Depot, but I found that the pphysical properties of Lexian and Lucite were better then regular plexiglass, so I went that route. They also don't have nearly the same resonance as sheet metal.

Both are VERY expensive but I went to a local window and glass shop and bought remnants for about 1/20th the cost of a large sheet. I paid $20 for about 300 square feet- just in small sections.

I use the materials to make the 1/4" version of my spacers but I have some big sections that I set aside to use to seal off the large areas in the doors.
The sheet metal cost me $15 for 8 sqft, but I only needed about 4 sqft to do the front doors and the tweeter surrounds. I had thought about using acrylic, but I've found that cutting and forming metal is easier. None of the patch pieces that I used were flat, I'm interested in how you formed the plastic (what was the thickness used?). From previous experience I have found plastic really difficult to get just right.
56k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 09:45 PM   #36
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Default

I borrowed the 'AutoEQ' mic for my pioneer HU and ran the calibration tonight. There was basically no outside noise while it ran through the pink noise etc, but I found that their was VERY little improvement over the stock EQ settings.

I'm really glad that I didn't have to purchase the mic, because it seems quite ineffective (esp since I reverted back to my Custom EQ settings anyways!). Not to mention, that when the AutoEQ feature is enabled, the EQ settings are fixed, not allowing the bands to be adjusted!

If anyone else has had tried the Pioneer AutoEQ calibration I would be interested to hear about their results.
56k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2012, 09:06 PM   #37
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Default

Over the past month, I have been tweaking the EQ on the HU as well as a parametric one on the iphone. I've noticed that at lower volume levels, voices seem to be rolled off, but higher pitched treble such as hi-hat/cymbal notes are clear as day.. this doesn't seem to be as much of an issue when the volume is raised. I was initially thinking that this was a problem with the frequency response of the HU amp, but decided to try tweaking the cross-over.
Since I am using the stock speaker locations (for now), the distance between the woofer and tweeter is different. Since the cross-over will play a certain frequency range in both the woofer and tweeter, I decided to see if cancellation was the culprit. I inverted the polarity (swapped the negative and positive leads) of the woofer and noticed an instant improvement.
This is ideal until I get a DSP to allow more control of the time/phase alignment.
56k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 04:20 AM   #38
.17HMR
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 307335
Join Date: Jan 2012
Default

Cough, Cough, I love my Mini DSP
.17HMR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 04:22 AM   #39
GoDzz SoLdIeR
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 317010
Join Date: Apr 2012
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Glendale, CA
Vehicle:
2012 Wrx Limited
Satin White Pearl (SWP)

Default

Seriously?
GoDzz SoLdIeR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 06:32 PM   #40
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by .17HMR View Post
Cough, Cough, I love my Mini DSP
haha I was actually looking into buying the MiniDSP 2x4.

The only concern that I have is low output voltage, do you run the MiniDSP output directly to your amps? or are you using a line-driver/balanced MiniDSP?
56k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 06:37 PM   #41
brockd
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235571
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: So Cal
Vehicle:
2012 Impreza 2.0i

Default

damn. super nice install. btw, give me that roof rack. kthx
brockd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 06:55 PM   #42
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by brockd View Post
damn. super nice install. btw, give me that roof rack. kthx
Thanks!

Here's the plan, get yourself a T-30 screwdriver, find my car in a parking lot and take it!

I'm surprised that the rack doesn't have the option of locking..
56k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 07:04 PM   #43
Nathan0931
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 317085
Join Date: Apr 2012
Default

Nice man
Nathan0931 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 08:41 PM   #44
davidlm101
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 193235
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Santiago, Chile
Vehicle:
2010 Subaru Impreza
Silver

Default

Great post. I've worked on sound dampening my last 3 cars (the last two were both imprezas) and I know how much work it is. I also had the problem about how to fill the big holes on the doors and I used a sheet metal from an old PC tower and then CLD on it.

Next month I'll buy a new 2012 impreza and again, I'll work on it I hope I could take some pictures to register the process as you did.

BTW, about the Pioneer AutoEQ calibration, I have an Alpine HU with imprint for sound calibration and it's superb.. I'll recommend it.
davidlm101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 08:49 PM   #45
brockd
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235571
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: So Cal
Vehicle:
2012 Impreza 2.0i

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 56k
Thanks!

Here's the plan, get yourself a T-30 screwdriver, find my car in a parking lot and take it!

I'm surprised that the rack doesn't have the option of locking..
I would. But you live a little far away. Lol.
brockd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 03:55 PM   #46
HinGurl
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 293678
Join Date: Sep 2011
Vehicle:
2012 Impreza 2.0i
5 Door Limited. Silver

Default

Question: What is that white object in the door? Do you have free access to the exterior metal skin of the door behind it? Just asking because, I got my first ding and it was flagrantly intentional. I'm wanting to repair it myself. I wished it was just a scratch on the car but the paint and clear coat is undamaged but left a small dent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 56k View Post

HinGurl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 09:46 PM   #47
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HinGurl View Post
Question: What is that white object in the door? Do you have free access to the exterior metal skin of the door behind it? Just asking because, I got my first ding and it was flagrantly intentional. I'm wanting to repair it myself. I wished it was just a scratch on the car but the paint and clear coat is undamaged but left a small dent.
Sorry to hear about the damage

It is a plastic cover for the power-window motor. Behind this panel is also the track that the window slides along. The plastic piece is easy enough to remove, I think there are just 3 clips that hold it in place. You may have to remove the screws holding the window-track, if it's in the way.

Good luck with the repair, I'm curious about how are you going to pull out the dent? I was lucky on a previous car, just able to use a hairdryer and suction-cup..
56k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 10:57 PM   #48
HinGurl
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 293678
Join Date: Sep 2011
Vehicle:
2012 Impreza 2.0i
5 Door Limited. Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 56k View Post
Sorry to hear about the damage

It is a plastic cover for the power-window motor. Behind this panel is also the track that the window slides along. The plastic piece is easy enough to remove, I think there are just 3 clips that hold it in place. You may have to remove the screws holding the window-track, if it's in the way.

Good luck with the repair, I'm curious about how are you going to pull out the dent? I was lucky on a previous car, just able to use a hairdryer and suction-cup..
Like this, hopefully:

The dent is about the size of a quarter and actually pretty hard to find at first but once you spot it, it's hard ignoring I heard about the dry ice and blow dryer method, as well as the suction cup method. I am thinking my dent/ding is too small for those methods.
HinGurl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2013, 12:34 AM   #49
Subirex09
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 207880
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CT
Vehicle:
2013 STi
Awesome SWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 56k View Post
T putting the door card back in place, I applied CLD and CCF to the back-side to try and cut down any rattles.. plus I have lots of this stuff left over anyways:
Finally got to my sound deadening job a couple weeks ago. Was just about as thorough as you but neglected to hit the inside of the door card with Dynamat and Ensolite and tonight I heard a little rattle while rocking out to some Daft Punk at a high volume, so I'll have to get the panel off "one more time" to fix that : ).

This thread helped me a lot, and it definitely required a ton of patience but what a difference it made...if you want a clean and sick sounding system, start here!
Subirex09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2014, 08:09 PM   #50
Thefifth
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 389497
Join Date: Apr 2014
Default

I hate to bump an old thread but I just removed and replaced my door panel after adding sound deadening and now neither the inside nor outside door handle will open it regardless of the lock position. Anyone got any help? I can't take the door panel off because the door being closed blocks it in.
Thefifth is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2012 WRX Audio Planning Phase gunz4me Car Audio, Video & Security 20 10-14-2012 02:53 AM
('11-'14) 2012 Impreza 2.0i Premium Manual Remorse? riccnick Impreza Forum 34 04-09-2012 09:40 PM
Help with JBL MS-8 install on 2012 impreza sport premium gobells12785 Car Audio, Video & Security 9 03-23-2012 09:56 PM
2012 Impreza Sport 5 door factory audio info please? 2012subisport Car Audio, Video & Security 5 03-18-2012 02:10 PM
PCSing back to USA; cross country ride in 2012 Impreza or 2012 Odyssey? tlminh Newbies & FAQs 11 03-14-2012 03:03 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.