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Old 11-27-2012, 02:20 PM   #176
drewvdw
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Yeah, I suppose it would've been too high of compression...Still very anxious for my shortblock...also, I was wondering your thoughts on a lightweight crank pulley as well as flywheel if you're b&bing the assembly. I've got a Grimmspeed piece as well as stock and I could send either in.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:22 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewvdw View Post
Especially considering the 704 casting issues...
Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
True story! I currently have 704 cases
Aside from two or three posted up cases of a 704 block cracking I'm not aware of any more, and frankly don't feel it's an issue.

Hell, I'm sure you can find plenty of cases of earlier blocks splitting as well just based upon how many there are out there.

In other words I don't think the 704 "issue" is statisically significant.

And to top that off we've built a number of 704 blocks that have had no problem including the rather high compression highly stressed one in our race car.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:38 PM   #178
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I agree, but it is still something worth mentioning.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:53 PM   #179
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I'll mention that I've seen more cracked pre-704 blocks than cracked 704 blocks but you have to take into account sample size also. Lets mention 702, 703, and 704 blocks too.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:04 PM   #180
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What did everyone do as far as breaking in their motors?
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:18 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post

Aside from two or three posted up cases of a 704 block cracking I'm not aware of any more, and frankly don't feel it's an issue.

Hell, I'm sure you can find plenty of cases of earlier blocks splitting as well just based upon how many there are out there.

In other words I don't think the 704 "issue" is statisically significant.

And to top that off we've built a number of 704 blocks that have had no problem including the rather high compression highly stressed one in our race car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
I'll mention that I've seen more cracked pre-704 blocks than cracked 704 blocks but you have to take into account sample size also. Lets mention 702, 703, and 704 blocks too.
I hear you guys and like Dom stated in one of the threads, most of the 704 case issues are probably the result of poorly executed tunes and then pushing them too hard with the poor tune.

My MPS LR motor revs so smoothly and starting it up in mid 30 degree weather, there is absolutely no piston slap when cold. I am very happy with the feel and initial response of this motor!
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:56 PM   #182
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Did you do an easy break in, hard break in, or just drive like normal?

Edit: Dom, I posted these questions and more on Facebook where I had a couple other questions for you. I'm sorry I've got a billion and a half questions I want to make sure I've got everything right.

Last edited by drewvdw; 11-27-2012 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:09 PM   #183
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An easy break in and I am still breaking it in. Prime the oiling without starting it. Initial start up 1500-2000 rpm 20 minutes with break in additive in organic oil. Change oil, another breakin additive. Drive it for 150 miles (new cams) 5-10 psi boost and 5k rpms max. Change oil, organic oil drive for 1000 miles not exceeding 10 psi boost and 5k rpms until 500 miles. A little more boost after 500 miles running on the 1 bar wastegate. Change oil to synthetic after 1000 miles. I'm going to switch to Rotella 5w40 sun at that point. Tune...... Enjoy!!
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:13 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewvdw View Post
Did you do an easy break in, hard break in, or just drive like normal?

Edit: Dom, I posted these questions and more on Facebook where I had a couple other questions for you. I'm sorry I've got a billion and a half questions I want to make sure I've got everything right.

minimize facebook usage when communicating with me, please. If you need answers to questions like that, I'm not going to type that into my phone. Use email. I'll send you the break in procedure.
Quote:
Here you are:
Break In Procedure:
1. Install engine and all accessories. Don't start the engine have assembled just to hear it.
2. Add 4qts of oil and coolant. Use conventional 10-40 or another approved break in oil.
3. With spark plugs removed and crank sensor plug removed- crank the engine. Preferably you have a battery charger on the battery to give a voltage boost to aid in fast cranking.
4. Hold cranking for 30 second intervals until you have oil pressure. This can be observed by the low oil pressure light or any aftermarket gauge. Also, when you have good oil pressure you'll notice the engine speed up as oil gets to the bearings and cams. This is the number one reason we don't just start engines. Many people believe that starting an engine is the best way to get oil to it and that the assembly lube will protect the bearings. The large audible increase in speed tells me otherwise. Granted the oil viscosity is different than the assembly lube, there still isn't as good of lubrication.
5. Once you establish oil pressure, maintain cranking for another 20 seconds. This ensures that you have oil to all bearings and passages.
6. Install plugs. Reconnect crank sensor.
7. Start engine and maintain 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. During this time, have someone checking the engine for leaks. If a small drip is present, that isn't a big deal and you should maintain rpm. If a larger leak is present, shut the engine down, fix the leak and start the engine and run it for 20 minutes. Check that the radiator fans turn on and closely watch coolant temperature. This is also when you should be burping the cooling system. We recommend using the radiator cap extension reservoirs for bleeding cooling systems.
8. Change oil.
9. Drive car if it's ready. If using new cams or buckets, change the oil at 100-200 miles. If not, 700-1000 miles will work. During the break in period, the engine should see 7-10 psi of boost and 5k rpm. Maintain AFRs in the mid 12's under low boost and 14's under idle and cruise. 10 or 11:1 will not help the break in. No long pulls under boost. Just short bursts of about 2-3k rpm in any gear. Do not row through the gears under boost until at least 500miles. The goal is good ring seal without creating any hot spots by overloading unseated rings.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:22 PM   #185
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Alright, sorry about that Dom. I'll just email those questions I had for you then.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:18 PM   #186
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Originally Posted by drewvdw View Post
Alright, sorry about that Dom. I'll just email those questions I had for you then.
no problem. it's just not the best way to get the answers to questions. half the time i don't even see facebook posts.

my shift button is busted on my laptop... so i is always lower case.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:25 PM   #187
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Hey Dom, that's a nice detailed response, you should include a card made up with this when you ship your blocks out.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:27 PM   #188
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Hey Dom, that's a nice detailed response, you should include a card made up with this when you ship your blocks out.
we're working on a owner's guide. We got our new shipping method down and it's pretty nice. Next is owner's guides, finish the new website etc.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:32 PM   #189
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Awesome
BTW, we might have to talk a bit more about my 2.2 soon. I have some checking to do first, but I'm concerned that something is up with it.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:53 PM   #190
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Would a +4mm rod on a sleeved motor with larger pistons bring it back out to 2.5l?

Also, whys the +4 rod and 06 wrx head only have a 8500rpm rev limit?
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:47 AM   #191
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rod length has nothing to do with displacement.
Yes, if you go to a big bore like 102.5 mm you bring it up to 2.5.

we do this all the time.
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:20 PM   #192
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Okay, and how about my rev limit question?

Would having huge pistons decrease reliability/it's ability to rev?
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:53 PM   #193
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Okay, and how about my rev limit question?

Would having huge pistons decrease reliability/it's ability to rev?
Can't get into it very in depth now as I'm out of town and using my phone.

Short answer: actual rev limit depends on the rest of your setup, but the difference is to point out that there is a lower limit with higher compression and smaller chamber design.
The pistons themselves won't care what you spin them to as long as it's under 11000 rpm.

Those setups were a reference for what you COULD do with them, not what they were limited to.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:52 PM   #194
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Subaru Stars Group buy

I'm up for pistons and rods group buy where do I sign up Dom hopefully 102.5 pistons
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:24 PM   #195
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Am also up for 102.5 or even 103 pistons group buy if there is one in the future.
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:27 PM   #196
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Closed for next group buy.
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