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Old 12-24-2015, 06:28 AM   #1
cyrus951
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Default What's the latest hottness in sound deadening?

Dynamat is way overpriced from what I've read, what's the most cost effective solution today to sound-deadening our cars?
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:07 AM   #2
ventura92x
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Accumat by scosche.
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:48 AM   #3
bobditts
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depends what area you are working on. give this a good read

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.co...rea-treatments
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Old 12-25-2015, 02:43 AM   #4
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one at a time, guys
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Old 12-30-2015, 03:19 PM   #5
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i got a box of stinger roadmat on amazon for $98 shipped and it was enough to do the doors, trunk floor and roof if used correctly. I still have some left. Still need foam over it for complete deadening. The dynamat/roadmat stuff is more for vibrations. Still helps a ton vs not having it.
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Old 12-30-2015, 03:32 PM   #6
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In the industry, there is a line drawn between sound reducing material, and vibration dampening material. Without getting into that debate, matting is the most common first step. And while it is basically a vibration dampening material, it's effects are that of "deadening" your panels from some of the road noise and resonance, which translates in to less cabin noise. I found that Fat Mat was the best price. I was pleased with the product. It was thick and applied nicely. I have a wagon and did my entire trunk floor, under rear seats, inside the door panels, under the door skins. It does make a difference in overall road noise, but it's a modest difference. You're not going to go into luxury car quiet range all of a sudden.
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Old 12-30-2015, 04:56 PM   #7
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Does anyone here even have the tools to quantify the effectiveness of sound deadening between brands? Has anyone here even sound deadened two cars of the same model with two brands of sound deadening? Asking a forum what is the best is like asking someone what the best kind of fruit is. I'm a strawberry man myself.

Your best bet is going to be finding an audio shop and asking them what kinds of deadening they use. Once you've eliminated any sort of bias or favoritism, then you can get down to actually comparing them to each other.

Or you could do a quantitative analysis yourself. It's not too hard. You just need samples of different brands stuck on something metallic, like cymbals and look at the waveform they generate using a microphone and computer. I'm sure there are people here who would send you some small patches of leftover stuff they have. I've got extra dynamat extreme.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomferd View Post
Does anyone here even have the tools to quantify the effectiveness of sound deadening between brands? Has anyone here even sound deadened two cars of the same model with two brands of sound deadening? Asking a forum what is the best is like asking someone what the best kind of fruit is. I'm a strawberry man myself.

Your best bet is going to be finding an audio shop and asking them what kinds of deadening they use. Once you've eliminated any sort of bias or favoritism, then you can get down to actually comparing them to each other.

Or you could do a quantitative analysis yourself. It's not too hard. You just need samples of different brands stuck on something metallic, like cymbals and look at the waveform they generate using a microphone and computer. I'm sure there are people here who would send you some small patches of leftover stuff they have. I've got extra dynamat extreme.
Testing is a lot more work than necessary. Most self adhesive matting is going to be essentially the same, when we are talking mil for mil (most major brands having only two or three thicknesses anyway). Again, they simply reduce vibration and rattles, and block some road noise, when used to cover openings in door skins etc. It's fairly easy to read reviews and find what are most likely the top 5 brands. If you REALLY care to be underwhelmed, you can watch someone else test them on youtube or something. There are better forums with lots of info when you move to the car audio arena.

But really, if we are talking about adhesive matting, do you think that between two similar types, you're going to be able to distinguish the nominal audible difference?
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:55 PM   #9
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I hot-glue lead weights to my door skin.
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Old 12-30-2015, 07:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubblu View Post
Testing is a lot more work than necessary. Most self adhesive matting is going to be essentially the same, when we are talking mil for mil (most major brands having only two or three thicknesses anyway). Again, they simply reduce vibration and rattles, and block some road noise, when used to cover openings in door skins etc. It's fairly easy to read reviews and find what are most likely the top 5 brands. If you REALLY care to be underwhelmed, you can watch someone else test them on youtube or something. There are better forums with lots of info when you move to the car audio arena.

But really, if we are talking about adhesive matting, do you think that between two similar types, you're going to be able to distinguish the nominal audible difference?
I personally don't think you can go wrong with whatever you end up getting. The best I've seen per sq foot is on sounddeadenershowdown.com. I am just saying the only real way to eliminate subjective opinions is to get the facts yourself. It really all comes down to how much you care.
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Old 12-30-2015, 10:38 PM   #11
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12 inch sundown audio X2.. no road noise guaranteed
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:19 PM   #12
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12 inch sundown audio X2.. no road noise guaranteed

No doubt. It'll fix that nagging belt squeal too.
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Old 01-01-2016, 10:23 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubblu View Post
Most self adhesive matting is going to be essentially the same,...
This is on the nose, 100% correct. In terms of blocking sound transmission, the only factor that matters in the material is mass. Despite clever marketing to the contrary, there are no "magic" materials. The internal loss of the materials may vary but in the thicknesses we are talking about for this use, the change in transmission loss will be negligible, if any.

For the next level of isolation you would have to go to a mass-airspace-mass construction (like double pane windows and double walls in residential construction), which is not practical in cars.

The other sound reduction function, that of damping panel resonances, is going to be essentially equal. There may be differences, but they will likely be situational and probably academic in level. (A viscoelastic material like E-A-R Specialty Composites Isodamp might make a difference, but I doubt any of the autosound vendors offer that. Viscoelastics are really costly and not form-able for complex surfaces other than by thermoforming.)

If I were shopping for damping sheet material, I would base my choice on pounds per square feet and ease of installation.

TL=Transmission Loss
p.s.f.=pounds per square foot

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Old 01-01-2016, 11:51 AM   #14
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I've heard great things about SecondSkin but haven't used it myself.
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Old 01-02-2016, 02:16 AM   #15
terrastrife
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The major problem about going with cheap stuff is not in their sound changing properties, but the adhesive they use which may come off over time or stink up your car, often stuff not designed for the high temperatures that a car operates at.

KJ_Knowles: MLV is pretty practical for large car surfaces like the floor/boot floor etc.
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Old 01-02-2016, 08:28 AM   #16
bobditts
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https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products

Read everything at this link. You guys are bouncing all over the place talking about deadening/absorbing products. This link explains the different categories of products on the market and how they differ.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:42 AM   #17
bdubblu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrastrife View Post
often stuff not designed for the high temperatures that a car operates at.

High temps? Where are you putting this stuff? The interior cabin of my car doesn't get that hot.
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubblu View Post
High temps? Where are you putting this stuff? The interior cabin of my car doesn't get that hot.
the exterior metal surfaces of the vehicle get extremely hot when in the sun. Surfaces such as the roof and door skins often get deadening materials applied to the inside surfaces. Materials like 'peel and seal' and asphalt based materials do not do well in extreme heat when used as 'deadening'
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:05 PM   #19
bdubblu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobditts View Post
the exterior metal surfaces of the vehicle get extremely hot when in the sun. Surfaces such as the roof and door skins often get deadening materials applied to the inside surfaces. Materials like 'peel and seal' and asphalt based materials do not do well in extreme heat when used as 'deadening'

Gotcha.
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