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Old 04-07-2012, 09:25 PM   #1
07wrxguya
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Default Another TGV problem?

History on the car...
07 Subaru wrx wagon. I bought the car 6 months ago. The car is all stock except a hks catback. The day after I got it the cel came on. Several codes came up including p2021 p2005 p2006 ect. I spent several weeks trying to get the car into the shop with the light on so the dealship could confirm the issue and have my warrenty pay for it. The dealership sudgested replacing both TGV assemblys w/ motors. The warrenty people said they wouldnt approve the work becasue they couldnt confirm the the tgv valves were "bad". A month went by with me bitching at my warrenty people and finally the agreed to do it. $1200 later they fixed it.

I have had the car back for a week or so with no codes, then I started my car in the morning and a p2433 came up..

P2433
Secondary Air Injection
System Air Flow/Pressure Sensor
Circuit High

I confirmed what the code was and cleared the code with my code reader. I havent seen the code since I cleared it.

Then I went to local chevron and got 12 gal of 91oct and when stared the car I pulled a code of p2021

P2021 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor / Switch Circuit Low
(Bank 2)

I then went to my friends to drop something off and when I started the car it took about 10 seconds for the car to finally start. I almost thought it wasnt going to start. The car seems to run normaly but the code wont clear.

The only thing the dealship didnt replace was the two sensors on the TGV's.. Both connections look good. Im worried that the sensor has finally crapped out on me. I wont take it back to the dealership becasue my warrenty said on the condition of fixing the tgvs's without confirming that they were actualy failing, that they would not fix any onther tgv related ssues. I agreed becasue the dealship said this would fix the issue. Im so frustrated with these TGV's but I want to keep the car stock. Im not at the point of deleting them.

My question is what is the next step I should I take?
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:35 PM   #2
HinshawWRX
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Secondary air injection is the air pump found on the drivers side of the engine bay. These are known to go out (well the valves that are attatched to the engine I will say, the pump itself rarely goes out). The whole purpose is for "cold start emissions" which is likely why it did not start. Though I'm unsure about P2021. Did you search for it?
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:57 PM   #3
07wrxguya
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The car didnt have trouble starting until it was fully warmed up. I have searched for it and the best thing i can come up with is just replace the sensor and hope for the best.. As far as the p2433 its a high output off the sensor so replacing that sensor too. But I wanted to see if there might be any troubleshooting before just throwing parts at the car.
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:19 PM   #4
07wrxguya
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Any ideas
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:04 PM   #5
07wrxguya
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Bump!
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:41 PM   #6
Boshwash
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Wish I could help, free bump anyway thought
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:48 PM   #7
07wrxguya
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Cleared the p2021 code hasent come back. Although, i started the car this morning and it was fine. Went to jack in the box right down the street. I went inside and when I came out my car did the hard start again. Took about 5+ seconds for it to start. No code present.. confused
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:30 AM   #8
ehiddenidentity01
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keep bitching at the warranty ppl. something isnt right and they should take care of it
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:08 PM   #9
07wrxguya
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It was the hardest thing u had to do. The warrenty people are SO god damn stubborn. And on top of that unless the dealership can verify the intermittent problem nothing will get done. My warrenty is up in June
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:26 PM   #10
SpongeBobSquarePants
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I would check my fuel pressure regulator. Hard starts can be cause by leak down of the fuel pressure. Car may be running rich and this throwing ghost emission codes. Not running rich enough to actually throw a rich code though. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a bad fpr. Try turning the key to the on position allowing the fuel pump to prime the system first. Then turn the key to start it should fire immediately. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:45 PM   #11
07wrxguya
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Ok thanks. I will try to locate and determine if my regulator is functioning properly. Would runnning rich throw a air pump or tgv sensor code?
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:18 PM   #12
northman
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Default secondary air

there are several threads on here about it. A know problem, there are a couple valves that like to fill up with moisture and fail. Parts are not cheap, and installation is a bitch. Smart money seems to be on removing the stuff, installing blockoff plates, and removing the codes with a tuning option, either AP or open source.
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Old 04-12-2012, 12:29 PM   #13
07wrxguya
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So it happened again. I did a little bit of spirited driving last night and pulled a code of p2016. Then this morning started the car and pulled a 2004 and a 2016. I just had my tgvs replaced why would I have a stuck valve. It must be the sensor not doing its job right? I stoped at the gas station in the morning after clearing the codes and my car did another 5+ second start. Wtf?
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:04 PM   #14
07wrxguya
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bump it
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Old 07-14-2012, 01:24 AM   #15
Wraith646
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This is just for others that think that the TGV is the problem. You had them replaced and when they get that new ones they come with new actuators and position sensors. What you need to do is replace the two secondary valves. What happens is the pump is set off to the side between the batt and the strut tower, it gets hot after you drive. When you shut it down and it cools it starts to build up moisture. When you restart it in the morning it travels down to the valve and starts to rust. The reason it doesn't start is cause the water turns to a mist in the intake and smothers out the spark when it comes in after the spray of fuel.
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