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Old 04-09-2012, 12:04 PM   #1
subie_lawyer
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Default Removing Bugs From Front Bumper / Grille

I don't know if it's the unusually mild winter or what, but it seems the bugs in my area are much worse this spring than in years past. I can't even drive a mile on the highway without at least a few bugs ending up splattered on my front bumper. What is the best way to remove bug guts from the front bumper and grille? I've got a sport mesh grille on my 12 Impreza, if that makes a difference.

I'd prefer something simple that doesn't take much time or money. So far, I've used some "bug remover" solution and scrubbed it with a soft towel. The "bug remover" solution is basically useless; I end up having to use my fingernail to scrape off all the crusted on bugs. Soap and water works probably just as well.

Does anyone have a better way to remove bug guts from the front bumper?
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:04 PM   #2
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Hit a deer. Their fur takes the bugs right off.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:40 PM   #3
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This stuff is awesome
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeion View Post


This stuff is awesome
^+1

As long as i do a walk around everytime after i drive and immediately spray/wipe off the bugs, I have no problems removing them. Just don't let them sit too long or they stick like glue.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by OKC-WRX View Post

Just don't let them sit too long or they stick like glue.
How long would you say is "too long"? I'd prefer not to have to do this more than once a week. I'll see if I can track some of this stuff down and give it a try.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:32 PM   #6
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I think once a week should be good. And they sell it for sure at O'Reilly's
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:54 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by subie_lawyer View Post
How long would you say is "too long"? I'd prefer not to have to do this more than once a week. I'll see if I can track some of this stuff down and give it a try.
Personally I think a week is too long. The acid in bug guts can etch into your clearcoat quick. I try to take a couple minutes every day if I drive anything but a short distance, to take a rag and said remover and quickly wipe them off then. I have seen bugs and bird poo etch into clear coat in a matter of hours.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:55 PM   #8
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Especially here in the midwest (where you are as well) when the sun beats on our cars.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:16 PM   #9
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I fond by washing the car with rainx car wash and then hit with Lucas fast detailer. Then when it comes time to wash the car again the bugs just wipe right off
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:21 PM   #10
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I usually just powerwash them off.. one quick swipe with the hose and bugs b gone!
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:38 PM   #11
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A good hard wax or sealant finish will help the bugs to come right off with just spraying them with a water hose. I have used Collinite 915 on the from of my Z for this and everything came off with little to no scrubbing. Remember, the more you have to touch your paint.. the more it will be marred and after a while it will start to turn dull.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starlightluvsu View Post
I usually just powerwash them off.. one quick swipe with the hose and bugs b gone!
This is great too if you have one or don't mind paying for one. You can get them pretty cheap these days. I wish I could do it, but if I have to wash my car here, even in the evening like you should do I get waterspots like crazy if I don't dry the car IMMEDIATELY. Horrible town water around here.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:55 AM   #13
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I usually just soak them for a while with a detailing spray and then wipe them off, but its better to carry a microfiber towel and detailing spray in the car, and just wipe them when you see them.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:59 AM   #14
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A tip I have heard and used yesterday while cleaning mine, dryer sheets.

Just take a dryer sheet, dip it in water, and use a bit of elbow grease to get them off. I was also using a towel to wipe up the residue. Worked really well, and will probably be my bug gut cleaner go-to from now on.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:06 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKC-WRX

Personally I think a week is too long. The acid in bug guts can etch into your clearcoat quick. I try to take a couple minutes every day if I drive anything but a short distance, to take a rag and said remover and quickly wipe them off then. I have seen bugs and bird poo etch into clear coat in a matter of hours.
The fact is that not everyone has the time nor the desire to address these issues on a daily basis. People that know me know Im relatively picky and even I will usually wait until the next time I can get around to washing the vehicle.

I second methodically's advice about using a quality, resilient sealant/wax with good contaminant shedding characteristics. From my own experience I would say something like FK1000P would work quite well for this. Its what I used on the wife's Forester before I switched to Opti-Coat on her car. I still think it was better than OC in this regard.

Obviously, application of such products on complex surfaces like a grill may be not be feasible. ....although I have had good success applying Optimum Opti-Seal via airbrush in areas like these. Using a soft bristle brush or something like a boars hair brush while you wash can also help dislodge contaminants from grills, badges, etc.

To OKC's earlier point, the quicker you can remove bug remnants the better. Shellac (at least originally) was derived from insects and its no wonder why splattered bugs can leave such a hard residue on your paint. .....some are worse than others.


--sent via mobile phone--
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:39 PM   #16
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Its kinda a hack, but what I've found works best is to take a MF towel, get it wet, nuke it in the microwave for 10 to 15 seconds to get it good and warm, spray the bug remains with a quick detail product and then hold the towel on the bug guts for a few seconds prior to some soft agitation. The heat in the towel helps to loosen the stuck on bug. This process also works well on Tar.

If that fails I usually use Stoner Tarminator.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutch987 View Post
A tip I have heard and used yesterday while cleaning mine, dryer sheets.

Just take a dryer sheet, dip it in water, and use a bit of elbow grease to get them off. I was also using a towel to wipe up the residue. Worked really well, and will probably be my bug gut cleaner go-to from now on.
Seriously? Has anyone else tried this? I'd be a little worried about the long-term effects of this home remedy.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
The fact is that not everyone has the time nor the desire to address these issues on a daily basis. People that know me know Im relatively picky and even I will usually wait until the next time I can get around to washing the vehicle.

I second methodically's advice about using a quality, resilient sealant/wax with good contaminant shedding characteristics. From my own experience I would say something like FK1000P would work quite well for this. Its what I used on the wife's Forester before I switched to Opti-Coat on her car. I still think it was better than OC in this regard.

Obviously, application of such products on complex surfaces like a grill may be not be feasible. ....although I have had good success applying Optimum Opti-Seal via airbrush in areas like these. Using a soft bristle brush or something like a boars hair brush while you wash can also help dislodge contaminants from grills, badges, etc.

To OKC's earlier point, the quicker you can remove bug remnants the better. Shellac (at least originally) was derived from insects and its no wonder why splattered bugs can leave such a hard residue on your paint. .....some are worse than others.


--sent via mobile phone--
FK1000P is EXCELLENT as a sealant and if you have any mosquitos near you ... they'll be gone quick lol. The scent from it is pretty strong.
It's heat resistant up to 215 degrees from what ive read.

Also FK has some cleaning effects and will get anything else off that you might miss during washing.

Collinite wax has NO cleaning effect however so it can be layered if one wishes to do so... though layering is debated. I'm a fan of putting 2 coats of the Collinite 915 on. It's a beauty wax, but it's quite durable if you aren't using a harsh car wash or wash mitt.

I will also add that Collinite 845 is also excellent boat wax that many people use.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:00 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by lordgrinz View Post
I usually just soak them for a while with a detailing spray and then wipe them off, but its better to carry a microfiber towel and detailing spray in the car, and just wipe them when you see them.
what many of you are missing is that wiping across these bugs IS going to mar your paint if only slightly. Rinse the area and just keep spraying it around and let it soften the bugs... many of them will come off with just minor pressure with the hose after that.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subie_lawyer View Post
Seriously? Has anyone else tried this? I'd be a little worried about the long-term effects of this home remedy.
I've been doing it since I've had my STI (just around 8 months) and haven't had any problems.

I've seen this method referenced on here before also,
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3&postcount=16
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:40 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by methodically

FK1000P is EXCELLENT as a sealant and if you have any mosquitos near you ... they'll be gone quick lol. The scent from it is pretty strong.
It's heat resistant up to 215 degrees from what ive read.

Also FK has some cleaning effects and will get anything else off that you might miss during washing.

Collinite wax has NO cleaning effect however so it can be layered if one wishes to do so... though layering is debated. I'm a fan of putting 2 coats of the Collinite 915 on. It's a beauty wax, but it's quite durable if you aren't using a harsh car wash or wash mitt.
Those cleaning effects (and smell) can be attributed to the carrier solvents. ....which Collinite 915 also contains although the concentration may not be as heavy. Curiously, I have found 2 applications of FK1000P perform better than just one coat. Typically, I would allow the first application to fully cure first and apply the next ~ a week later after the next wash. I was surprised to see I wasn't alone on this when talking to some fellow members over on Autopia.

In fact, while I don't necessarily agree with "layering" some products do seem to perform better with one or more applications. In the case of FK1000P, I can only attribute its above average resilience (once cured) when holding up to a second coat.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:45 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
Those cleaning effects (and smell) can be attributed to the carrier solvents. ....which Collinite 915 also contains although the concentration may not be as heavy. Curiously, I have found 2 applications of FK1000P perform better than just one coat. Typically, I would allow the first application to fully cure first and apply the next ~ a week later after the next wash. I was surprised to see I wasn't alone on this when talking to some fellow members over on Autopia.

In fact, while I don't necessarily agree with "layering" some products do seem to perform better with one or more applications. In the case of FK1000P, I can only attribute its above average resilience (once cured) when holding up to a second coat.
I agree its top notch stuff. I also love the look of several layers of duragloss 105. Talk about an awesome looking candy coating!
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:14 AM   #23
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Clay Bar...
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:29 PM   #24
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So I'm bringing this thread back up since it's not that old and it's easier than making a new post.

I just have a really long drive (over 1k miles) from Colorado through Utah etc and the amount of bugs i picked up is nothing short of amazing.

I am thinking of trying the FK1000P since nothing seems to take these things off.

I do have a few questions since i am a noob.

Do I go through the wash/clay bar first then put the FK1000P on, let it sit, and wipe off?

Also, is this the correct product:
http://www.autogeek.net/finish-kare-1000p-wax.html

The dryer sheet seems like something I might try, if it works that well I would be in heaven haha.
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerseyDubbin View Post
So I'm bringing this thread back up since it's not that old and it's easier than making a new post.

I just have a really long drive (over 1k miles) from Colorado through Utah etc and the amount of bugs i picked up is nothing short of amazing.

I am thinking of trying the FK1000P since nothing seems to take these things off.

I do have a few questions since i am a noob.

Do I go through the wash/clay bar first then put the FK1000P on, let it sit, and wipe off?

Also, is this the correct product:
http://www.autogeek.net/finish-kare-1000p-wax.html

The dryer sheet seems like something I might try, if it works that well I would be in heaven haha.
....yes, that's the one. However, are you looking for this product to help you remove bug residue or make it easier to remove? I'm a little confused by your 3rd sentence.

Yes, you would definitely wash the car before applying any LSP (i.e. wax/sealant). .....and clay if needed/desired. Whisper thin coats are key to this product which will make removal easier. ....and yes, you let it haze before wiping off.

Keep it off trim, crevices, etc. It will dry white like a traditional paste wax. Also, I would personally recommend adding a 2nd coat a week or so later. I have noticed a dramatic increase in durability with a 2nd application. .....IMO/IME, I think it's worth it.
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