Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Monday September 22, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Service & Maintenance

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-09-2012, 05:35 PM   #1
E-sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 117641
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default Yes I have read the FAQ for changing coolant.. PLEASE GIVE ANY ADVICE

Okay here is the story from the top.. My top radiator hose bursts causing system to over heat.. Added water to get it home. Ordered samco hoses and waited for delivery. Once arrived read all related thread to find best walk through and used info posted in http://forum.nasioc.com/forums/shortbread.php?t=504002, I only installed top hose since did have time to get to the bottom one. So used burping method as well as low heat keep top reservoir open temp stopped rising after multiple cycles of letting system cool then reving between 2-3 rpms even more to get a spike. So all seems well until one day boom temp spikes and then normal while driving on hwy get to work check and coolant overflow tank is overflowing. So I go through it again temps seem fine got as much air out of the system the happened again. So get professional help decisions get made to get an updated radiator due to fact look like leaking from top and bottom of radiator so I say makes sense to upgrade anyway has to be done eventually. So full system flush again bottom radiator hose changed add mishimoto radiator installed get the car back drive to work and guess what overheating again as soon as I pull into parking lot. WTF Things it might be that have not been changed reservoir radiator CAP and thermostat.. New cap came with mishimoto rad. I'm just baffled as to what the issue could be and can't keep throwing money at it. I don't think it the headgasket since no oil in system no coolant in oil. I willing to get thermostat but don't know why mechanic didn't recommend. I Also when the car overheated initially there was good period in red was in traffic and got to emergency lane and shut her down and waited for water so could get it home. Any advice would just put me at ease this issue is very frustrating. Thanks in Advance. Also I own 05 STI 87000 miles if that matters.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
E-sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 08:11 PM   #2
Unabomber
Big Ron
Moderator
 
Member#: 18062
Join Date: Apr 2002
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: I can save you a ton of cash
Vehicle:
on car parts so PM
me b4 j00 buy

Default

You are crushed by E-sti's Massive Wall of Text!
You take 246 damage.
You have died.

Play again? Y/N
Unabomber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 08:32 PM   #3
E-sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 117641
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default

Yes why not.

Okay here is the story from the top I own 05 STI 87000 miles if that matters. My top radiator hose bursts causing system to over heat.. Added water to get it home. Ordered samco hoses and waited for delivery. Once arrived read all related thread to find best walk through and used info posted in http://forum.nasioc.com/forums/shortbread.php?t=504002, I only installed top hose since did have time to get to the bottom one.

So used burping method as well as low heat keep top reservoir open temp stopped rising after multiple cycles of letting system cool then reving between 2-3 rpms even more to get a spike.

So all seems well until one day boom temp spikes and then normal while driving on hwy get to work check and coolant overflow tank is overflowing. So I go through it again temps seem fine got as much air out of the system the happened again.

So went to mechanic to get professional help so decisions get made to get an updated radiator due to fact look like leaking from top and bottom of radiator so I say makes sense to upgrade anyway has to be done eventually.

So full system flush again bottom radiator hose changed add mishimoto radiator installed get the car back drive to work and guess what overheating again as soon as I pull into parking lot. WTF!

Things it might be that have not been changed
reservoir radiator CAP and thermostat.
New cap came with mishimoto rad.

I'm just baffled as to what the issue could be and can't keep throwing money at it. I don't think it the headgasket since no oil in system no coolant in oil. I willing to get thermostat but don't know why mechanic didn't recommend. I Also when the car overheated initially there was good period in red was in traffic and got to emergency lane and shut her down and waited for water so could get it home. Any advice would just put me at ease this issue is very frustrating. Thanks in Advance.

Last edited by E-sti; 04-09-2012 at 08:40 PM.
E-sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 10:59 PM   #4
r mando
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 315778
Join Date: Apr 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: sedro woolley
Vehicle:
wrx hawkeye
OBP

Default

a lot things can cause overheating

cooling fan not working

cooling fan switch/relay bad

not enough air going through radiator because pigeon/crow is lodged in there

thermostat like you said

stop leak or some other magic potion pellets that will clog up the water jackets

ECT sensor not working right

oh and the little hose going from below the radiator cap to the overflow tank, that allows coolant to overflow when the engine starts to warm up and build pressure

all i can think of off the top of my head, good luck
r mando is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 11:23 PM   #5
z
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 41762
Join Date: Aug 2003
Chapter/Region: International
Location: House of Pancakes
Vehicle:
04 STi
CT-DE-FL rinse+repeat

Default

^ add water pump not circulating coolant to that list.

(and also system not holding pressure can cause coolant to boil) ie any other leak.
z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 01:59 AM   #6
E-sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 117641
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default

Thanks for responses so far.
I will be checking these out tomorrow
I hope its one of those simple fixes really

Will update once i rule each one out.

Thanks again. Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
E-sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 12:52 PM   #7
E-sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 117641
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default Could this be it

So far the fans are working
Relays seem ok as well or fans would not be coming
Changed Reservoir cap. Radiator cap is new from Mishimoto


Clean the AC compressor since fan was not running at high speed for too long would just spin and stop. Drove it for a while still seeing excessive coolant in overflow tank

Have not changed Thermostat since it is seems to be functioning. Could it still be bad?
E-sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 05:55 PM   #8
achong
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 144083
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Georgia, USA
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza WRX
Platinum Silver Metallic

Default

E-sti,

I'm curious as to how long you are spending burping the system. The few times that I've done it, it took at least 20+ minutes to get enough air bubbles out of the system and for the thermostat to fully open until I was satisfied with no more air being released out of the resevoir.

Usually I wait until the fans to turn on, and when they do, I see the coolant level drop which means the thermostat has opened. Then I wait a little longer until I see no more big air bubbles then top off the system.

I'll will then drive the car being mindfull of the coolant temp guage and checking the level after the system has cooled. Usually, I only need to add a small amount to both the resevoir and the radiator.

Also, I've found that if you are somewhat low on coolant (resevor halfway full) or have air bubbles in the system - you will hear air gurgling though the system (heater core) inside your car when you initally start the engine. It's a small detail that I've noticed.
achong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 05:56 PM   #9
E-sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 117641
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default

Official word is there was still Air in the system. I will be driving the **** out of it to try to force another reaction but this was such a pain.

I would like to get every ones best method of changing the Coolant and bleeding the system. Just would like to not have this issue ever ever again.
E-sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 06:03 PM   #10
E-sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 117641
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by achong View Post
E-sti,

I'm curious as to how long you are spending burping the system. The few times that I've done it, it took at least 20+ minutes to get enough air bubbles out of the system and for the thermostat to fully open until I was satisfied with no more air being released out of the resevoir.

Usually I wait until the fans to turn on, and when they do, I see the coolant level drop which means the thermostat has opened. Then I wait a little longer until I see no more big air bubbles then top off the system.

I'll will then drive the car being mindfull of the coolant temp guage and checking the level after the system has cooled. Usually, I only need to add a small amount to both the resevoir and the radiator.

Also, I've found that if you are somewhat low on coolant (resevor halfway full) or have air bubbles in the system - you will hear air gurgling though the system (heater core) inside your car when you initally start the engine. It's a small detail that I've noticed.
I spend more than 20 Minutes when I did it. The mechanic i took it to took about 20 mins but did not burp the hoses when we dropped in the new rad yesterday.

If you dont mind give me your step by step method you use and i will try that the next coolant change.
E-sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 01:54 AM   #11
recce02
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 13815
Join Date: Jan 2002
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Good ol Temecula
Vehicle:
02 GCRally prepped
277TQ 281HP 19PSI

Default

This is how i fill the cooling system. Fill the block first through the top radiator hose, very slowly, like it should take a good 5 min to fill the block slow. That will insure any air trapped in the block can get by the new fluid you are putting in. Once fluid overfills the too hose quickly attach it to the radiator. Tighten clamp. And start filling radiator, again very slowly. Once that is full, cap it and fill the tank on top of the intake manifold, again very slowly. I stop when i see the fluid at the bottom of the neck on that tank.
Now i reach the bottom radiator hose and squeeze it to force any air out. If any air comes out the level in top tank should lower. If it does, add more fluid to same starting level. Once I'm satisfied i got all the air out of the bottom hose i do the same with the top hose. Once I'm satisfied with that i cap it and fill the overflow halfway between low and full.
Start car, allow fans to cycle. I usually cycle the fans 3 or 4 times. Always keep an eye on temp, if the fans cycle longer than 1 min, shut car off. Allow pressure to subside, open top cap and squeeze bottom hose and then top, replenishing if needed.
But usually doing it this way insures that most of the big air pockets are pushed out.
recce02 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 09:05 AM   #12
Jessekrs123
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 236927
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Oakville CT
Vehicle:
1993 Legacy Sedan
1984 BRAT

Default

Holy wall of texts!

1. Fill empty cooling system with whatever 50/50 pre-diluted coolant you choose. Completely up to you whether or not you use the Subaru conditioner, I've never used it, I've never had a problem.

2. Leave radiator cap off and start car, with heater controls on hot and at the highest setting.

3. Keep filling up with coolant or water while car is running until the car will no longer take any more coolant. Squeezing the radiator hoses helps. This can take a while, be patient, there is more to the cooling system than just the radiator, the coolant must make it through the engine and your heater core as well.

4. Once you are 100% sure that the cooling system has been properly topped off, wait around for radiator fans to activate while monitoring the coolant temp gauge. The fans probably should have cycled a few times while you were burping it. This confirms your fans, coolant temp sensor and thermostat are properly functioning.

If that all goes to plan then you should be good to go. If you are still having problems with overheating then you know there are no air pockets in the system, and the problem is being caused by something else.

That is what I do. I have 2 Subarus with 160,000 + miles with absolutely no cooling issues.
Jessekrs123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 12:22 PM   #13
achong
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 144083
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Georgia, USA
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza WRX
Platinum Silver Metallic

Default

My method is the same as Jessekrs123 above ^^^^

I've never had a problem doing it this way. I once had heard a story of a guy that had his short block replaced on his wrx and had an overheating problem. The shop that had done the work tried to solve the problem and told the owner that the engine would have to be taken back apart to find the cause.

Instead he sold it to someone else and the new owner took some time to thoroughly bleed the system of air and had no further issues. It seems to me that with the addition of the resevoir on a wrx, it's a little more difficult and time consuming to get it right than other cars.
achong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 04:47 PM   #14
WeldingHank
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 98645
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Lawrence,ma
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
PSM

Default

Fill radiator first (if you have the neck on it) then fill the expansion tank. cap the radiator.

Leave the cap off the upper tank, massage the upper radiator hose while watching the level of coolant in the tank.

Top off tank as nessecary untill the level stops dropping, cap upper tank.

Start and run car untill fans cycle on/off. Let cool and check the level again.

Done this on many cars, works 1st time everytime.
WeldingHank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 05:45 PM   #15
BlackFighter
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 193940
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Philly
Vehicle:
2004 WRX STI Black
RalliSpec Shortblock

Default

^ that's how i do mine.
BlackFighter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2012, 09:32 PM   #16
E-sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 117641
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default

Thanks for all the replies. Really appreciate the feed back.

Today was good hot day drove from mechanic long way home AC blasting.
Got home overflow tank had just above the full line good sign.
Drove to work was a even a bit more above the full line but after it cooled down i went to check and it was pulled back into the system.

So hopefully we got all the air out, but i will do these steps next time have to change coolant or bleed the system.

Again thanks for all the replies don't mind more feed back

I like doing things myself for the learning factor and experience as well as the satisfaction.
I had to cave and take to my mechanic this time since I need to drive daily and at least I got a new shiny mishimoto radiator which will come in handy for future mods to come.
E-sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 10:27 PM   #17
E-sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 117641
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default

Every thing still great. Hopefully no more coolant issues
E-sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 02:24 PM   #18
04wrxwagon805
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 279601
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Santa Barbara
Vehicle:
2004 Wrx
Silver

Default

I think the pressure from the mishimoto radiator cap isnt up to par with what subaru requires i know i had to place my stock radiator cap back on since mishimoto holds less pressure
04wrxwagon805 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2012, 09:34 PM   #19
E-sti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 117641
Join Date: Jun 2006
Default

Will take that into consideration. But still no issues to report. Temp needle has not budged.
E-sti is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Romraider issues, I have read the FAQ, etc moddest30r Open Source Reflashes 6 03-05-2012 11:58 AM
? for those running E85..and YES I did read the FAQ prodigy888 Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain 3 07-14-2011 06:08 PM
Yes I have read the hybrid thread, can I get some straightfoward answers...? scurabus Built Motor Discussion 16 12-13-2010 12:40 AM
Suspension question - yes I have read the suspension FAQ 2003RS2.5 Brakes, Steering & Suspension 5 06-25-2010 09:09 PM
Have read the FAQs and want to upgrade my suspension ogboot Brakes, Steering & Suspension 11 05-05-2008 01:30 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.