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Old 04-19-2012, 01:58 AM   #26
MightySlam
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I just put in a set of DB6501's and DB651's (along with some FatMat) in my Outback Sport. They sound great with the stock HU. The 651's are a slight improvement, but I really hear the difference with the 6501's. The lows are more solid and the the highs are brighter. And I was able to get rid of the rattles in my door panels.

As for spacers, I used the thicker spacers from iA Performance on all four corners. Worked like a charm and they were a perfect fit.

The 6501 tweeters will fit in the stock sail pod with a bit of surgery. I needed to Dremel off the plastic casing around the tweeter... it is a bit nerve-racking, but if I can do it any Dremel monkey can. After the casing comes off, it fits right into the pod.

Also Rio... are you a member over at ImprezaWorld... i mean, MustangWorld?
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:25 AM   #27
SQ Dreamer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwrxWagon View Post
Thanks for playing... this is EXACTLY why PROFESSIONALS ask what types of music customers listen too. That fact Kool-Moe-D to Shania Twain listener is going to get a different BRAND of speaker when coupled with several other factors... Like Deck power vs amp power? CD, Sat radio, or iPod/Mp3?

You are taking your own "knowledge" as a SQ guy and forgetting that others are not as advanced. I am 210% CD/CDr listener with Sat radio on the commute. I don't like the sound of MP3/iPod.. just me. I wouldn't recommend 90% of what's out there for the way I listen because if you haven't torn up your ears listening to crap, you'll hear every lil defect in MP3 conversion/compression. I've spent 30+ of my 44 years on this planet protecting my hearing. I value music that much... But I am not selling or recommending to ME.. I am recommending to someone 1/2 the country away.

His/Her ears... Simple process... Take His/Her music in the FORMAT they listen to and GO LISTEN TO SPEAKERS... Don't have to buy them at Car Toys, Best buy, wherever.. but they have to go listen.

Boston Acoustics sound differently than MB Quart vs Rainbow, Kenwood or Alpine or JL Audio. Hundreds of companies out there and the only way to please his/her own ear is the LISTEN...

Rob

I figured I can't let just one person rival the Audio Section I haven't torn up my ears either. I'm just as good as my RTA I respect my boundaries.

Brand? I was directing more towards various cone's, tweet compositions, etc. I'm not exactly sure I follow you on your point(s).

I'm not sure if you were directing this towards me as it's within your response, but I did note that as far as speakers, it's all up to the user. I did however note there MAY be better options VS the Pioneers the OP listed. That doesn't matter thought, right? This is always true because it only varies person to person. Preference.

I stated there are probably better options than the Pioneers the OP listed because of my experience -Not just w/ Audio in general or MY preference, but w/ that specific speaker & my (& others) comparison W/ many others at or around that pricepoint. It isn't just "me" either. Plenty of people have auditioned my stereo over the past few years. Give me 10 people to audition the Pioneers & another set. I am almost guranteeing you that over half the people would prefer the set I chose over the Pioneers the OP listed. Why? I have ran through the experiement. Regardless of the 90,000 variables, I have come to a conclusion. I am playing the odds & sticking to my suggestion. However, the OP may be a part of the minority, thus my reasoning on "as far as speakers, you are on your own."

I'll never tell someone that auditioning speakers is a bad idea. It's great! ...& after that audition, hopping on the web & beating that "middle man" price is even better! Lol, only some of them are refurbs right?

Boston doesn't "sound" anymore, so you can't compare. They can't. They're discontinued
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:48 AM   #28
riored4v
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightySlam View Post
I just put in a set of DB6501's and DB651's (along with some FatMat) in my Outback Sport. They sound great with the stock HU. The 651's are a slight improvement, but I really hear the difference with the 6501's. The lows are more solid and the the highs are brighter. And I was able to get rid of the rattles in my door panels.

As for spacers, I used the thicker spacers from iA Performance on all four corners. Worked like a charm and they were a perfect fit.

The 6501 tweeters will fit in the stock sail pod with a bit of surgery. I needed to Dremel off the plastic casing around the tweeter... it is a bit nerve-racking, but if I can do it any Dremel monkey can. After the casing comes off, it fits right into the pod.

Also Rio... are you a member over at ImprezaWorld... i mean, MustangWorld?

yes, yes I am.

Thanks for the info man. Do you happen to have a pic of how the tweeter looks after modifying it?


Also, with the sound deadining, am I just looking to do a square sheet around the speaker, or should I be lining the entire door panel?
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:02 PM   #29
MightySlam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riored4v View Post
yes, yes I am.

Thanks for the info man. Do you happen to have a pic of how the tweeter looks after modifying it?


Also, with the sound deadining, am I just looking to do a square sheet around the speaker, or should I be lining the entire door panel?
Hahaha, I thought so. I'm Green5.0 over there.

Anyway, I never did take pictures while I was doing the install. But the tweeter should look like this when done (the one in the middle, stock is on the right):





Got that from this post... basically the same thing I did. The tweeter was a silver plastic casing, held on from the back with a kind of hard rubbery sealant. I used the dremel to cut into where the edge of the speaker grill it and pull it out.

If you look closely at this pic:



the tweeters already have black "cuts" on the backside. I just continued the "cut" (without going too deep) on two consecutive ones to the front where the grill was and I could pull out the cut out piece in the middle. After that, you can basically peel the plastic housing off like peeling a shrimp.

I probably should have taken pics.

For the sound deadening, I got
this kitthis kit
. It was enough to do the full front doors (replacing the vapor barrier), a little on the inside of the outer door skin, with a lot left over. I could probably do my rear doors with what is left over, but I was in a hurry and lazy. That will be a project for another day.

I was totally satisfied with the FatMat... heavy, the adhesive stuck on the door great, and the door feels a lot more solid now.

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:52 PM   #30
riored4v
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Awesome man. Thanks for the info. That's going to be really helpful.


And I was wondering what your name on MW was. i didnt recognize it from here lol.

Where did you mount the crossover?
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:54 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SQ Dreamer View Post
^ LOL, no that is not a new product. ...at least that I'm aware of. In my opinion, asking genre is irrelevant as basically everyone listens to a variety.

I would rather see your money go to CLD tiles than "Dynamat." Why? I have tested MANY types of deadeners & Don's products are superior Here: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

How quick is Don's service?
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:39 PM   #32
Mike 01Hawk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riored4v View Post
Where did you mount the crossover?
Manufactures will say not to do this, that you should mount the cross over on the floor pan under the seat to avoid moisture. But I mounted mine under and to the back of the door arm rest. It's where the stock white plastic do dad goes (and what is causing the 2008+ doors to rattle like a bitch).

Crossover here, red box, I used silicone to mount it. Obviously this pic is before I mounted the x-over. Derp derp. I was part way thru matting my door, the outer door skin has been matted.


And here's the 'fix' to the stock door card rattles. You can see the white box, it's there to help add structural integrity to the door, IMO it's a waste, I ripped them out when I put cross overs in their place. You can 'fix' the door card easily, you don't even have to remove the door card. Just pop the bottom out, like 3 or so pop screws. This'll give you enough room to wedge some carpet pad between the stock door skin and plastic door card 'box'

Last edited by Mike 01Hawk; 04-19-2012 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:51 PM   #33
riored4v
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Thanks.

I havent actually had any rattles so far with my doors after I took it back to the dealer to have them fix them I'll still check it out though since they might pop up after the new speakers.



Kind of off-topic, but I'm going to order some CCF for the rear deck since it bounces all over the place with my sub. Don's site linked previously offers 1/8" and 1/4" thickness. Any idea which one to go with?
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:36 PM   #34
Mike 01Hawk
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I think you just want rear deck plastic isolation from the metal pan it covers. When I had my rear deck out I just put some fatmat on the 'rubbing' points. There's a thread on here with pics, there are about 3-4 rubbing points.

-edit, the thread with pics: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ar+deck+rattle
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:08 PM   #35
riored4v
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike 01Hawk View Post
I think you just want rear deck plastic isolation from the metal pan it covers. When I had my rear deck out I just put some fatmat on the 'rubbing' points. There's a thread on here with pics, there are about 3-4 rubbing points.

-edit, the thread with pics: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ar+deck+rattle

hmm.. interesting. I had posted a previous thread and was instructed to just use ccf http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2320937 because I was noticing those flaps that cover the tie-downs were bouncing all over the place.

Sounds like the thread you linked addresses that though.
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:20 PM   #36
MightySlam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riored4v View Post
Awesome man. Thanks for the info. That's going to be really helpful.


And I was wondering what your name on MW was. i didnt recognize it from here lol.

Where did you mount the crossover?
I mounted them over top of the hole above the speaker hole... it's where the door card flares out to meet the dash. There is room there.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:32 PM   #37
joshweight
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Matted the front doors (inner and outter): AMAZING!!! Got much better bass, and no more farking door card rattles


Do you have any pics/info?
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:52 PM   #38
SubaruLegacy43
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I installed a set of Kickers in the back of my Legacy with the stock HU and they sound great! Even better with my new HU.
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Old 01-14-2014, 08:58 PM   #39
scooby4u
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I bought a set of cheap pioneer for the front door. Made brackets out of plywood. Sounds better than stock but probably slightly underpowered. I recommend the underseat sub also.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:34 AM   #40
Scooby06doo
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ive had the alpine type S 6 1/2's before.... they are pretty decent sounding entry level speakers. i think they are recommended 35-50watts.... remember its better to overpower a speaker than to underpower it
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:44 AM   #41
TnDeadhead
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I'm looking to put 6501's in the front with the tweeters in the dash replacing the stock ones. The sound shop I use say they'll have to fabricate brackets to put these 1" tweeters in the 2" spaces. Is that right? Wasn't there a guy around here that fabricates those? I'm going to put the 650's in the rear.

Edit: I found the dude at www.subaruaudio.net.

Last edited by TnDeadhead; 02-08-2014 at 11:10 AM. Reason: answered question.
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:54 AM   #42
TnDeadhead
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Okay, so I hurried through the first install and didn't do my research. To be fair, I was still half sick with the flu. Anyway, that's how I wound up without steering wheel controls and with the wrong speakers. Anyway, I've done my research now and have a replacement hu and SWI that Crutchfield says will work. I have a set of Patrick's spacers coming, I have the components for the front and 2 ways for the back. Patrick has dash spacers too. And I discovered that getting the steering wheel controls to work is not entirely straightforward. http://ae64.com/ This dude seems to know all about it. I will provide this to the new installer.

About the only question now is where to put the crossovers. The OEM crossover is on the tweeter, right? I imagine the installer will be able to resolve but does anybody have any suggestions? I'm determined to get this done properly. Crutchfield has been very cool about it, sending me a replacement SWI and hu and agreeing to take back the extra set of component speakers.
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:49 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike 01Hawk View Post
SKIP. THE. REARS.

Dunno about spacers. Look around for 2008+ people running the DB6501 and see what the have to say. I had to run spacers for my CTXs.
What this guy said, all rears do in our car is move the sound stage rearward (bad). Go Components upfront, I recommend Hybrid Audio, they have solid choices for almost any price point.

Don't flame, I didn't read your budget.
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:51 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnDeadhead View Post
Okay, so I hurried through the first install and didn't do my research. To be fair, I was still half sick with the flu. Anyway, that's how I wound up without steering wheel controls and with the wrong speakers. Anyway, I've done my research now and have a replacement hu and SWI that Crutchfield says will work. I have a set of Patrick's spacers coming, I have the components for the front and 2 ways for the back. Patrick has dash spacers too. And I discovered that getting the steering wheel controls to work is not entirely straightforward. http://ae64.com/ This dude seems to know all about it. I will provide this to the new installer.

About the only question now is where to put the crossovers. The OEM crossover is on the tweeter, right? I imagine the installer will be able to resolve but does anybody have any suggestions? I'm determined to get this done properly. Crutchfield has been very cool about it, sending me a replacement SWI and hu and agreeing to take back the extra set of component speakers.
Best spacers for our cars come from IAPerformance.
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:54 PM   #45
Roper215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnDeadhead View Post
Okay, so I hurried through the first install and didn't do my research. To be fair, I was still half sick with the flu. Anyway, that's how I wound up without steering wheel controls and with the wrong speakers. Anyway, I've done my research now and have a replacement hu and SWI that Crutchfield says will work. I have a set of Patrick's spacers coming, I have the components for the front and 2 ways for the back. Patrick has dash spacers too. And I discovered that getting the steering wheel controls to work is not entirely straightforward. http://ae64.com/ This dude seems to know all about it. I will provide this to the new installer.

About the only question now is where to put the crossovers. The OEM crossover is on the tweeter, right? I imagine the installer will be able to resolve but does anybody have any suggestions? I'm determined to get this done properly. Crutchfield has been very cool about it, sending me a replacement SWI and hu and agreeing to take back the extra set of component speakers.
OEM Crossovers are coils and capacitors built into the speakers, I remote mounted my cross overs (when I had them before I went active) under my seat and ran new wires through the door grommets, prevents you from mounting with tape or glue a crossoever network that will be subjected to a lot of forces by closing the doors that it make not appreciate. Just my .02
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Old 02-12-2014, 05:28 PM   #46
TnDeadhead
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Mmm. I would rather not remove seats unless absolutely necessary.
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:21 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Roper215 View Post

Best spacers for our cars come from IAPerformance.
Good. I just ordered those. Some cheap plastic ones in now. Not good injected ones
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:17 PM   #48
TnDeadhead
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I didn't see the '12 2.0i listed and no dash spacers. I'll stick with www.subaruaudio.net. They're made for my particular speakers. He's got some nice links on there too. Good info particularly on the SWI.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:09 PM   #49
TnDeadhead
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Bear in mind if you have an installer do this they may want to use their own spacers.

As it turns out the PAC steering wheel interface has some issues. The Axxess SWI is probably more reliable.
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