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Old 04-23-2012, 08:09 PM   #1
03.dub.r.x
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hey guys so took my gmc sierra for emissions and it failed they quoted 250 for repairs anyone can help me out wth the trouble codes are how to go about it
P0446 Evap Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit
P0452 Evap Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low input
P0453 Evap Emission Control Syetem Pressure Sensor High Input
P1258 Engine coolant overtemperature above 268???F -protection mode active.

check engine light is on its a year 2000 v8 4.8 vortec can someone dumb this down for me and suggest what may be needed to have repaired?
if its minor i believe i can do it. how do i clear these codes?

thanks
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Last edited by 03.dub.r.x; 04-24-2012 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:26 AM   #2
WRX357
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Stop a few blocks short, unplug your battery, step in the brake a couple times, plug back in battery, drive to emission test place, take test, pass, go on with life.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:32 AM   #3
Erik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX357 View Post
Stop a few blocks short, unplug your battery, step in the brake a couple times, plug back in battery, drive to emission test place, take test, pass, go on with life.
No. That doesn't work.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:45 AM   #4
yman
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It would be good to invest in a scantool; you can plug it in, reset the codes, drive until the minimum amount of codes are "ready" and no CEL's are on, then drive to your nearest DMV and get it tested before the code comes on again. That's what I did with the Forester.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:47 AM   #5
kpluiten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX357 View Post
Stop a few blocks short, unplug your battery, step in the brake a couple times, plug back in battery, drive to emission test place, take test, pass, go on with life.
You will fail.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:09 AM   #6
03.dub.r.x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX357
Stop a few blocks short, unplug your battery, step in the brake a couple times, plug back in battery, drive to emission test place, take test, pass, go on with life.
thats exactly what i did before hand but in the test it came back on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yman
It would be good to invest in a scantool; you can plug it in, reset the codes, drive until the minimum amount of codes are "ready" and no CEL's are on, then drive to your nearest DMV and get it tested before the code comes on again. That's what I did with the Forester.
would you happen to have a scantool u could help me with? or recomend one versus the usual ones from the vatozone

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten

You will fail.
Agreed wasnt even worth the wait. So i have my free retest so i want to do everything possible to gey this done.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:54 AM   #7
Erik
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You already know the codes so there's not much point in the scan tool. Google those codes for that car, figure out what is broken, and then fix it. Drive the car for a while so you pass the readiness check and to make sure the CEL doesn't come back on; then go back to redo emissions.
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:00 AM   #8
yman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik View Post
You already know the codes so there's not much point in the scan tool. Google those codes for that car, figure out what is broken, and then fix it. Drive the car for a while so you pass the readiness check and to make sure the CEL doesn't come back on; then go back to redo emissions.
This is the smartest plan. If it was a single code for like, the rear o2 it would be a much simpler thing but it sounds like you've got some maintenance items to take care of. The only reason I did the scantool thing was because I bought a vehicle from Cali and it needed to get registered ASAP since I was ridin' dirty with no 30 day tags.

BTW the autozone scantool that's like $250 should do the trick. I know its expensive but thats the one I'll be getting. I don't have one for you to use at this time though, still haven't gotten around to ordering it (gonna go through amazon). The main reason I would suggest getting it would be to check if your vehicle's ready or not, since you only get to go to the DMV a couple of times before you have to drive downtown and have them reset it in the system. I drove like 500 miles once and the codes still weren't ready, which is my reasoning for suggesting finding a friend with the tool.
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:04 AM   #9
Infantry209
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I have a scanner if you need codes read or reset also.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:20 AM   #10
SpectoRex
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the 3 first codes seem to all be related, there is a vent valve on the car that may be plugged. if the car sat for a long period of time, these hoses going to the vent valve can get clogged with spider webs and dirt and cause issues with vent valve. Seen it many times on subaru's, and other vehicles.

For the temp code, check your t stat, if that is not working properly your fans will stay on, the car will not cool down, and the temp sensor will throw a code.

You can also google to see if there are any tsb's for your car that deal with these codes for some easy fixes.
Hope this helps
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:26 PM   #11
03.dub.r.x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik
You already know the codes so there's not much point in the scan tool. Google those codes for that car, figure out what is broken, and then fix it. Drive the car for a while so you pass the readiness check and to make sure the CEL doesn't come back on; then go back to redo emissions.
Is there a certain timeframe your aware of to drive perhaps?

Quote:
Originally Posted by yman

This is the smartest plan. If it was a single code for like, the rear o2 it would be a much simpler thing but it sounds like you've got some maintenance items to take care of. The only reason I did the scantool thing was because I bought a vehicle from Cali and it needed to get registered ASAP since I was ridin' dirty with no 30 day tags.

BTW the autozone scantool that's like $250 should do the trick. I know its expensive but thats the one I'll be getting. I don't have one for you to use at this time though, still haven't gotten around to ordering it (gonna go through amazon). The main reason I would suggest getting it would be to check if your vehicle's ready or not, since you only get to go to the DMV a couple of times before you have to drive downtown and have them reset it in the system. I drove like 500 miles once and the codes still weren't ready, which is my reasoning for suggesting finding a friend with the tool.
500?! holy crapola. but ouch going to hurt to purchase tool and do repairs. would the 250 to make it pass be a better option?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Infantry209
I have a scanner if you need codes read or reset also.
awesome man! can you let me know when you have some spare time?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectoRex
the 3 first codes seem to all be related, there is a vent valve on the car that may be plugged. if the car sat for a long period of time, these hoses going to the vent valve can get clogged with spider webs and dirt and cause issues with vent valve. Seen it many times on subaru's, and other vehicles.

For the temp code, check your t stat, if that is not working properly your fans will stay on, the car will not cool down, and the temp sensor will throw a code.

You can also google to see if there are any tsb's for your car that deal with these codes for some easy fixes.
Hope this helps
Does help!! So in reference to valve try to locate it and clear it out?

And there seem to be issues with the dash lights in general was like that when i purchased it. Seems like the gauges always flicker never really steady not sure if they are accurate or maybe electrical failure (did have alarm system and jacked up the electrical so took it out being that the truck was left on anti-theft protection mode and wouldnt start)
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:46 PM   #12
SpectoRex
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your electrical issue sounds like a ground i problem. loose ground most likely. vent calve shoule be towards rear of car by cannister.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:45 PM   #13
03.dub.r.x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectoRex
your electrical issue sounds like a ground i problem. loose ground most likely. vent calve shoule be towards rear of car by cannister.
its a truck. but ill check. grounds today flush coolant and top it off and do a tune up and see of that helps with anythn.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:20 PM   #14
yman
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The scantool won't make it pass, it will just reset the codes and your car's monitors will show "not ready" when you go back to the DMV. A good scantool can tell you when the monitors are ready though, and there is either 1 or 2 monitors that are allowed to show up as "not ready". I knew the rear o2 was going to throw a code when it was ready, so I showed up to the DMV before it showed ready and it passed.

In your case though, since you've got 4 codes I would follow the advice from people in this thread who are trying to help you fix your vehicle, I just wanted to say if you have the extra cash a scantool is a good tool so you don't waste your trips to the dmv.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:43 PM   #15
03.dub.r.x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yman
The scantool won't make it pass, it will just reset the codes and your car's monitors will show "not ready" when you go back to the DMV. A good scantool can tell you when the monitors are ready though, and there is either 1 or 2 monitors that are allowed to show up as "not ready". I knew the rear o2 was going to throw a code when it was ready, so I showed up to the DMV before it showed ready and it passed.

In your case though, since you've got 4 codes I would follow the advice from people in this thread who are trying to help you fix your vehicle, I just wanted to say if you have the extra cash a scantool is a good tool so you don't waste your trips to the dmv.
yeah your right and thanks to everyone flr quick responses. after work will flush the coolant make sure i top it off with a 50/50 mixture due anyway for a tune up and check all my grounds to be sure nothin is loose and go from there ill update once i get home again thanks guys
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:05 PM   #16
fige
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ENGINE Temp sender & Thermostat
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:35 PM   #17
03.dub.r.x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fige
ENGINE Temp sender & Thermostat
happen to know location?
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:13 PM   #18
03.dub.r.x
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thermostat done
coolant flush done

still on >={
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:16 PM   #19
03.dub.r.x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fige
ENGINE Temp sender & Thermostat
also engine temp sender? uhm where is it?!
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:30 PM   #20
03.dub.r.x
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quick note serpantine belt did come off recently (pulley broke couple weeks back) and did overheat.
just did a tune up as well to me feels lik its runnin like shet not really sure how to take off the CEL which i think is the first code. your thoughts?
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:22 PM   #21
03.dub.r.x
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thanks everyone again. got fed up and went to pay 150 else where and was fuel temp sender i believe but is fixed now and passed with flying colors
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