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Old 04-24-2012, 10:47 PM   #1
joelkarlonas
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i have a stock ej20g in my 96 type ra and wanna get a bigger turbo for 20 pounds and new wider intake piping separate manifolds and front mount intercooler. wider exhaust piping turbo exhaust open air bov and tune.

i plan on doing a rebuild including piston rings replaced and block gasket. it has 146xxx and i dont know what else i should do if i want 20psi. do i have to hone the cyls and get forged pistons?

i wanna rebuild the drive train as well
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:19 AM   #2
steveomiami
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Theres lots of people who run 19 psi with stock turbo and stock engines, you will need a clutch though.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:09 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelkarlonas View Post
i have a stock ej20g in my 96 type ra and wanna get a bigger turbo for 20 pounds and new wider intake piping separate manifolds and front mount intercooler. wider exhaust piping turbo exhaust open air bov and tune.

i plan on doing a rebuild including piston rings replaced and block gasket. it has 146xxx and i dont know what else i should do if i want 20psi. do i have to hone the cyls and get forged pistons?

i wanna rebuild the drive train as well
Don't touch the internals. Standalone and bigger injectors and call it a day. The rest isn't even needed.
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:46 PM   #4
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You should really use some steel gaskets though.
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Old 04-27-2012, 12:19 AM   #5
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As I understand it, doesn't the MAF max out around 18.5psi?
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Old 04-27-2012, 02:47 AM   #6
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As I understand it, doesn't the MAF max out around 18.5psi?
With a stand alone, comes the option of running speed density. Goodbye MAF sensor!
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Old 04-27-2012, 12:19 PM   #7
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With a stand alone, comes the option of running speed density. Goodbye closed loop driveability!
fixed
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:36 PM   #8
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Speed density can have perfect driveability. No reason it wont except for improper tuning. Subarus even came stock with speed density.
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:56 PM   #9
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How about a maxwell 2.1l block. I'd run 14 or so psi and keep it a daily driver
Does that sound good with stock heads?
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:57 PM   #10
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Rebuild of course. But stock valves and cams
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:01 PM   #11
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I'm not sure if you even read the replys. You don't need to do any "building" for 20psi.
Just need injectors, exhaust and a tune.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:24 PM   #12
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I'm not sure if you even read the replys. You don't need to do any "building" for 20psi.
Just need injectors, exhaust and a tune.
Not a tune, some sort of aftermarket EM for 20 psi. And a fuel pump.

Even with a chip, the stock ecu is limited by the maf. You'll max out the stock maf at around 18-19 psi which is about 280-290 whp.

That's really plenty on a stock G engine and is plenty fast on the steet and will run mid 12's.
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69subaru360

Not a tune, some sort of aftermarket EM for 20 psi. And a fuel pump.

Even with a chip, the stock ecu is limited by the maf. You'll max out the stock maf at around 18-19 psi which is about 280-290 whp.

That's really plenty on a stock G engine and is plenty fast on the steet and will run mid 12's.
20psi on a 145xxxkm ej20g you serious?
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
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20psi on a 145xxxkm ej20g you serious?
Sure. It'll be fine. Why wouldn't it be?

Mine has over 100,000 km and it sees 18 all the time.
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:59 AM   #15
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I wouldn't push a 15 year old motor over 17 psi. A new one, yes but in your case that means a rebuild. And while at it, replace rods and pistons for forged items so you have a safety margin. Stock heads don't need any work for those boost/power levels.
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:11 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Marnix View Post
I wouldn't push a 15 year old motor over 17 psi. A new one, yes but in your case that means a rebuild. And while at it, replace rods and pistons for forged items so you have a safety margin. Stock heads don't need any work for those boost/power levels.
I would.
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:18 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marnix View Post
I wouldn't push a 15 year old motor over 17 psi. A new one, yes but in your case that means a rebuild. And while at it, replace rods and pistons for forged items so you have a safety margin. Stock heads don't need any work for those boost/power levels.
Stock rods are already forged, like all Subaru rods, and not a weak point in the engine, maybe do pistons if you have the money for it and are planing on more than 350 whp.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:41 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69subaru360 View Post
Not a tune, some sort of aftermarket EM for 20 psi. And a fuel pump.

Even with a chip, the stock ecu is limited by the maf. You'll max out the stock maf at around 18-19 psi which is about 280-290 whp.

That's really plenty on a stock G engine and is plenty fast on the steet and will run mid 12's.

The stock ecu is in no way shape or form limited by mass air meters. The stock unit just happens to be inferior for post 300 to the wheels.

The lack of people successfully using non stock mafs is not a fault of the stock ecu.
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:47 AM   #19
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Year don't matter. Miles do if the engine is worn. If it's in good shape why not?

Nobody hesitates to run 20 lbs of boost on a 100,000 mile EJ205, it's no different.

The rods aren't really safe when you get close to 350 whp, the bolts can break.

The ecu is limited by the maf because there is no opensource tuning for bigger mafs that has been successful. It could probably be done, but seems kind of pointless. You can get close to 300 with the stock ecu, stock green maf and stock 16g and that is about as hard as you want to push a stock EJ20G and have it be reliable.
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:55 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marnix
I wouldn't push a 15 year old motor over 17 psi. A new one, yes but in your case that means a rebuild. And while at it, replace rods and pistons for forged items so you have a safety margin. Stock heads don't need any work for those boost/power levels.
Spinning a bearing is what I'm most worried about. But someone else told me its all about the oil pressure when subarus spin a bearing.
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Old 05-05-2012, 04:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 69subaru360 View Post

The ecu is limited by the maf because there is no opensource tuning for bigger mafs that has been successful.
Interesting, there is a G in my garage that runs off a z32 maf.

Should I take it off?
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Old 05-05-2012, 04:25 PM   #22
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Interesting, there is a G in my garage that runs off a z32 maf.

Should I take it off?

Good for you, but there is no widely available user friendly tuning out there. The average G owner isn't going to burn multiple chips and risk their engine trying to figure it out.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:20 AM   #23
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The situation has changed a bit in the last 3 years. Chip burners for the ROM chip we use have reduced in price from the thousands of $ to $100. Boards that allow tuning with EEPROMS are also available. Romraider defs now exist for the G. Even better ESL is now selling its live tuning board AND software to end users for approximately $600. This allows live remapping that the new age ECU can't do.

So while this might not suit the average owner, any owner who is willing to dedicate a reasonable amount of time and money can tune their ECU.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:08 AM   #24
Loffinn
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Im rebuilding my EJ20G in my Rallycross car but it has 332.000km on it.

The thing is that the track here in Iceland has some slow corners compaired to many others and I lack the low end torque out of some of the corners.
Thats why I want to get higher compresion as im only boosting the OE turbo at 17psi.
Ive been looking at the Wiseco-Manley-CP forged pistons but the compesion ratio is only around 8.35...

Where can I get 9+ ratio pistons for a resonable price?


Regards
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:12 AM   #25
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Quote:
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Stock rods are already forged, like all Subaru rods, and not a weak point in the engine, maybe do pistons if you have the money for it and are planing on more than 350 whp.
I know the stock rods are forged. That only tells you how they were made, not how strong they are (I don't know of any connecting rod which isn't forged). The weak link are the rod bolts and the design of how the rod caps are located. They offer very little support to the rod bearings at high rpm and high boost.

That's why I advise to run different, stronger rods. Ofcourse you could also buy a set of ARP studs & nuts for the stock rods, will also solve the issue of bearing failure.

It's not an oiling issue, as the JDM and EUDM EJ207 semi-closed deck engines feature the same oiling system as the older EJ20G and EJ20K engines only with better rods, and they (almost) never suffer bearing failure.
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