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Old 05-02-2012, 11:57 PM   #1
NdrwBrwn
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Default Effective time to polish?

I waxed my car with Meguiar's Gold Class about two weeks ago. I picked up some polish, and I ordered some Poorboy's sealant which should be arriving later this week.

I want to do a total detail - wash, clay bar, polish, seal and wax. 1) To get rid of the minor swirls. 2) To protect the car from rain and pollen (no garage) and the upcoming summer heat.

So, to finally arrive at my question, is it effective to clay bar and polish approximately three weeks out from a wax? Should I wait a few more weeks until the wax dissipates?

- Andrew
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:53 AM   #2
pheonix991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NdrwBrwn View Post
I waxed my car with Meguiar's Gold Class about two weeks ago. I picked up some polish, and I ordered some Poorboy's sealant which should be arriving later this week.

I want to do a total detail - wash, clay bar, polish, seal and wax. 1) To get rid of the minor swirls. 2) To protect the car from rain and pollen (no garage) and the upcoming summer heat.

So, to finally arrive at my question, is it effective to clay bar and polish approximately three weeks out from a wax? Should I wait a few more weeks until the wax dissipates?

- Andrew
Your claybar will get rid of the wax.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:56 AM   #3
NdrwBrwn
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Ok, awesome. Thanks
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pheonix991 View Post
Your claybar will get rid of the wax.
Not sure about this.

In any case, just use Dawn dish soap to wash your car prior to claybar. That will strip any wax off. Then claybar, polish/seal/wax as you normally would.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pheonix991 View Post
Your claybar will get rid of the wax.
Not entirely.

Skip the dawn dish washing soap and just use proper car shampoo. If you are going to clay bar, polish, then seal/wax then you will be taking off the wax anyways so no need for the dish washing soap. Even dawn themselves stated on their website it is not for automotive use. I usually steer clear of this method when working on any cars.

Many others also use it with out a problem though.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:59 AM   #6
mr.ikon
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Also depends on how aggressive your clay bar is. Most otc clay kits are fairly mild so it won't always remove the wax or sealant.
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:45 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by pho_shizzle View Post
Not entirely.

Skip the dawn dish washing soap and just use proper car shampoo. If you are going to clay bar, polish, then seal/wax then you will be taking off the wax anyways so no need for the dish washing soap. Even dawn themselves stated on their website it is not for automotive use. I usually steer clear of this method when working on any cars.

Many others also use it with out a problem though.
Dawn is a good idea if he is trying to get to the fresh paint again. They say its not for automotive use because if you wash your car with dawn, you leave the paint exposed and unprotected. However this is the goal for the OP, since he will be following the wash with a clay, buff, wax.

Regular car soap/shampoo is made to avoid taking any wax etc off.
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:10 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by lude4life13 View Post
Dawn is a good idea if he is trying to get to the fresh paint again. They say its not for automotive use because if you wash your car with dawn, you leave the paint exposed and unprotected. However this is the goal for the OP, since he will be following the wash with a clay, buff, wax.

Regular car soap/shampoo is made to avoid taking any wax etc off.
What I meant was from a detailers point of view, using dawn as a protectant stripper isnt the most ideal because the manufacturer warned that it is so good at breaking down grease, it might not be safe to use on cars paint surfaces for all conditions.

Proper pH balanced car shampoo can break down layers of protection also, it just depends on the level you dilute it and mix into a washing solution.

Also, as I stated earlier...... if they user is going to polish the car, or do any type of correction with mildly abrasive substance, then that already will take off previous layers of protection and waxes.......

p.s. whether dawn dish washing soap dries out the paint, strips oil properties, dulls the paint, etc is highly opinionated and so is the usage of it. I just personally do not practice the usage of the product when there are other suitable automotive specific products.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:20 AM   #9
Cliff P
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A good friend of mine that details as a profession only recommends Dawn dish soap to strip and prep the areas to be worked if you're in a pinch (or cheap).

He actually recommends Klass AIO after a foam cannon two bucket wash method with a GOOD car shampoo.

So basically -
Wash with car shampoo either by hand with high quality mitts, or with a foam cannon.
Dry car.
Klass AIO pretreat
Claybar
Mask off areas.
polish.

Enjoy.


That's him taking a picture of himself in the body panel of an '06 Mustang GT with factory paint.

BMW 135i


I think he's actually a forum member here on NASIOC as well.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:16 PM   #10
NdrwBrwn
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Those pictures are unreal.

I've been washing with Meguiar's deep crystal car wash. Any advantages to switch over to a shampoo, and saving the deep crystal for another car?

What's everybody's feeling on wiping the car down with Isopropyl alcohol/ distilled water mix after washing? I've read it acts as a de-waxer, but I'm not sure if it's harsh on the paint.
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:41 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by NdrwBrwn View Post
Those pictures are unreal.
I'm Amazed at those photos. My car looked terrible coming from the dealer, and I don't have the time to force myself to pursue that. However it does look awesome!!
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Wash with car shampoo either by hand with high quality mitts, or with a foam cannon.
Dry car.
Klass AIO pretreat
Claybar
Mask off areas.
polish.
Eh? Que? What?

This order is messed up - sorry to say.

Klasse AIO is literally that - an all in one. So think of it like a polish, glaze, and wax in one. Most use Klasse AIO AS a polish, and seal with something else.

Also, you want to use your polish AFTER your clay, not before. Mainly because you want the polish to work it's magic (be it abrasive or purely filling) on a clean surface free of embedded contaminants.

Claying after applying the Klasse simply removes some of benefits of the polishing oils, which to me, is a waste of product.

Your order SHOULD be:

- Wash (if you want to use Dawn, that's your choice)
- Clay
- Mask areas req'd
- Klasse AIO
- *optional step* Wax of your choice. Stick to a pure carnauba in this instance (since Klasse AIO will form the base here)...not one with mild cleaners. The ones with cleaners will remove some of the benefit of the Klasse (i.e. it's fillers and glazing oils).

A simple OTC wax for this would be Mothers Step 3 Pure Carnauba or Megs Deep Crystal Carnauba. More expensive options are like Griots BoShow or Carnauba Stick, Collinite 476 etc etc. BTW Megs Gold Class and NXT 2.0 BOTH have mild cleaners, so be forewarned.

Oh and to keep that wax protection going, use a spray wax after every wash to "top it up" so to speak. Helps extend its useful duration.

Last edited by Omega_2nr; 05-04-2012 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:31 PM   #13
Cliff P
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega_2nr View Post
Eh? Que? What?

This order is messed up - sorry to say.

Klasse AIO is literally that - an all in one. So think of it like a polish, glaze, and wax in one. Most use Klasse AIO AS a polish, and seal with something else.

Also, you want to use your polish AFTER your clay, not before. Mainly because you want the polish to work it's magic (be it abrasive or purely filling) on a clean surface free of embedded contaminants.

Claying after applying the Klasse simply removes some of benefits of the polishing oils, which to me, is a waste of product.

Your order SHOULD be:

- Wash (if you want to use Dawn, that's your choice)
- Clay
- Mask areas req'd
- Klasse AIO
- *optional step* Wax of your choice. Stick to a pure carnauba in this instance (since Klasse AIO will form the base here)...not one with mild cleaners. The ones with cleaners will remove some of the benefit of the Klasse (i.e. it's fillers and glazing oils).

A simple OTC wax for this would be Mothers Step 3 Pure Carnauba or Megs Deep Crystal Carnauba. More expensive options are like Griots BoShow or Carnauba Stick, Collinite 476 etc etc. BTW Megs Gold Class and NXT 2.0 BOTH have mild cleaners, so be forewarned.

Oh and to keep that wax protection going, use a spray wax after every wash to "top it up" so to speak. Helps extend its useful duration.
I understand where you're coming from; I'm merely the messenger. He has a psuedo-write up, and a website (I won't post it here because it'd seem too much like advertising.) I just thought to help out the OP with his question, though I didn't provide a detailed enough answer. The Klasse AIO is used by his method as a cleaner, and he even states clearly that you'll likely strip the sealant off during the process of polishing. He prefers it simply because it's an excellent cleaner.

Let me quote him:
Quote:
Originally Posted by conwrath
After the drying process you should apply a paint cleaner. A paint cleaner is something that will remove any stuck on dirt/bug residue by a means of a light abrasive or even a chemical process, this prepares your paint for the claying process by minimizing the amount of work required from your claybar and also minimizing the amount of debris that will be added to your clay bar, increasing the longevity of your product. I prefer to use Klasse AIO (All-In-One), it provides good cleaning power, a light polishing action, and a paint sealant, although you'll probably polish off this sealant later. This should be used on the front bumper, edge of the hood, side mirrors, windshield, and anywhere else with some stuck on dirt residue or bug guts.
There are actually many more steps to doing it "right". Bottom line: If you're SERIOUS about detailing your car to make it look BETTER than new, even with a factory paint job, do LOTS of research. There are many detail pro websites out there with many how-to's. Check out autogeeks, most folks get their car care products from there.
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:32 PM   #14
Cliff P
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PS -

Pictures tell 1000 words
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:48 AM   #15
Omega_2nr
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^^Giving advice based on what you've done yourself, rather than re-hashing what someone told you, is worth far more.

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Old 05-05-2012, 01:45 PM   #16
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega_2nr View Post
^^Giving advice based on what you've done yourself, rather than re-hashing what someone told you, is worth far more.

....I agree to a point (since most things in detailing tend to be a YMMV sort of thing), but I also believe it depends on the source as well.

Quote:
After the drying process you should apply a paint cleaner. A paint cleaner is something that will remove any stuck on dirt/bug residue by a means of a light abrasive or even a chemical process, this prepares your paint for the claying process by minimizing the amount of work required from your claybar and also minimizing the amount of debris that will be added to your clay bar, increasing the longevity of your product. I prefer to use Klasse AIO (All-In-One), it provides good cleaning power, a light polishing action, and a paint sealant, although you'll probably polish off this sealant later. This should be used on the front bumper, edge of the hood, side mirrors, windshield, and anywhere else with some stuck on dirt residue or bug guts.
I don't know the context of the above remarks but simply based on what you posted here, I have to disagree as well for a few reasons....

First, I rarely agree with the idea that you "should" use a particular product, etc. It really depends on the scenario, what you're trying to accomplish, personal preference, etc. ....especially in this case.

Using an AIO for the reasons listed makes no sense to me. IMO/IME, there are far better products/methods for removing bug remnants and other contamination than an AIO. A bug & tar remover is a good example. It will help loosen and/or remove contamination like this prior to your claying step. It's fast, cheap and effective. Other alternatives (since you will be using clay anyhow) are to use a decon product during the wash step that will help remove old product and contamination. ....or other decon products after your wash like Valugard ABC, Finish Kare Decon Kit, etc. which will also help dissolve/release ferrous contamination entrenched in the paint (much more effective than clay in this respect). I would much rather use a chemical alternative to loosening/removing bug remnants before using mechanical methods (i.e. scrubbing, buffing with an AIO or polish). ....and then a claybar for the rest.

As far as extending the life of your clay, its not what I would consider an expensive product to begin with so I simply don't see a significant savings there. In either case, I suppose you can always use just a portion of the bar to help decon any particularly nasty areas first.

In either case, I don't think anyone is questioning the results your friend achieves (pictures or no pictures), it's just the process prior to correction that doesn't seem to make much sense. ....at least to me. In the end though, what works for you is all that counts.


btw, below is the typical flow of the various processes/products (borrowed from Autogeeks website):


Last edited by Kean; 05-05-2012 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:42 AM   #17
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Just got Cliff's message that hes been name-dropping.

Kean, you're spot on with you're suggestions. I wrote the above quote by Cliff several years ago and honestly have no idea what I was thinking at the time, please disregard it entirely.

Cliff, there is a reason I never finished that How To guide (because the whole thing needs to be re-written!).
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Old 05-19-2012, 12:06 PM   #18
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In relation to detailing, I have changed my mind myself about a lot of things over the years (ie processes, products, tools, techniques, etc.). I have recommended things in the past that I might not necessarily agree with now.

I came to the realization a long time ago that there is typically more than one way to skin a cat and there is really not a magic solution that is "best" for everyone. ....there are things that tend to work well for many, but what works "best" for an individual can depend. I always try to encourage folks to supplement individual recommendations with a healthy dose of their own research. You never know what you might discover.
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Old 05-19-2012, 12:26 PM   #19
xCONWRATHx
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Absolutely, detailing is the process of creating a refined aesthetic, and is therefore incredibly subjective. Everybody has different standards, different expectations, different experiences, and different preferences. Give advice when prompted, but don't be scorned if your advice isn't heeded. Its all good in the end, afterall, its only car cleaning.
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Old 05-19-2012, 02:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff P View Post
A good friend of mine that details as a profession only recommends Dawn dish soap to strip and prep the areas to be worked if you're in a pinch (or cheap).

He actually recommends Klass AIO after a foam cannon two bucket wash method with a GOOD car shampoo.

So basically -
Wash with car shampoo either by hand with high quality mitts, or with a foam cannon.
Dry car.
Klass AIO pretreat
Claybar
Mask off areas.
polish.

Enjoy.


That's him taking a picture of himself in the body panel of an '06 Mustang GT with factory paint.

BMW 135i


I think he's actually a forum member here on NASIOC as well.
I REALLY want to see the whole car.
That detail job looks amazing!
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:04 PM   #21
xCONWRATHx
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If you click on my username you can get to my website, I'm not sure if there are photos of it up there or not. I detailed that car a long time ago. I'll refrain from posting the link directly for fear of being accused of spamming.
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