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Old 05-10-2012, 08:25 PM   #1
dimwittedmoose
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Member#: 231049
Join Date: Nov 2009
Default Legacy Brighton Gas Leak at the Tank Inlet...HELP!!

96 Cheapo daily driver Legacy Brighton AWD Wagon with 161k on it. For a while now I've been smelling gs in and out of the car when and after filling the tank. This most recent fill up the odor was stronger and actually leaving a small puddle under the passenger rear tire area. There are drips coming from the plastic guard piece and the drips appear to be coming fro the rear of that side of the saddle tank.

I took off the cover plate behind the back seat and initially I thought the leak appeared to be the top gasket piece, but a brighter flashight showed that the leak seems to be coming from the larger hose clamp and filler hose area as that part is acutally wet with gas. The smaller hose with the spring clamp on it towards the center of the car is damp, but I can't tell if it's leaking or not.

My questions are as follows:

1. What exactly do you replace if this area is leaking? Does the tube from the filler slide over a male part of the tank, or does it attach in another fashion? The Haynes diagram is pretty vague on this subject.

2. Could it be as simple as needing a new hose clamp? The one there looks pretty rusty. It's almost impossible to see what, if anything is sealing the connection.

3. What function does the smaller hose towards the center play in all of this? It's hard to tell where it goes after it leaves the right side of the tank.

4. How much of a repair can be done without removing the tank, or is that mandatory for any fix? Space is certainly limited up there from the top or from the bottom.

Thanks for any help you folks can send my way.

DM&FS
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:20 PM   #2
Bullwinkle
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Member#: 154661
Join Date: Jul 2007
Default Updated Info on the Legacy Wagon Gas Tank Leak Repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by dimwittedmoose View Post
96 Cheapo daily driver Legacy Brighton AWD Wagon with 161k on it. For a while now I've been smelling gs in and out of the car when and after filling the tank. This most recent fill up the odor was stronger and actually leaving a small puddle under the passenger rear tire area. There are drips coming from the plastic guard piece and the drips appear to be coming fro the rear of that side of the saddle tank.

I took off the cover plate behind the back seat and initially I thought the leak appeared to be the top gasket piece, but a brighter flashight showed that the leak seems to be coming from the larger hose clamp and filler hose area as that part is acutally wet with gas. The smaller hose with the spring clamp on it towards the center of the car is damp, but I can't tell if it's leaking or not.

My questions are as follows:

1. What exactly do you replace if this area is leaking? Does the tube from the filler slide over a male part of the tank, or does it attach in another fashion? The Haynes diagram is pretty vague on this subject.

2. Could it be as simple as needing a new hose clamp? The one there looks pretty rusty. It's almost impossible to see what, if anything is sealing the connection.

3. What function does the smaller hose towards the center play in all of this? It's hard to tell where it goes after it leaves the right side of the tank.

4. How much of a repair can be done without removing the tank, or is that mandatory for any fix? Space is certainly limited up there from the top or from the bottom.

Thanks for any help you folks can send my way.

DM&FS

OK, after deciding that driving a moving bomb was not in my best inteest, I decided to fix this problem one way or the other. I ordered the filler neck hose that goes from the metal filler pipe to the tank AND the mega bnd gas vent hose that goes from the tank to the smaller pipe on the filler neck in the right rear fender well. First off, this job is a real bitch to do when you are driving a rust belt vehicle.

Some time ago I had replaced both gaskets for the left and right sending units and that didn't solve the problem. Upon taking the inspeciton cover off the right side behind the rear seat, it certainly looked like the big hose was not leaking, but the vent hose seemed to have more "residue around its junction with the tank nipple. Since had spent $60 on both hoses, they were both going on the car. Once the clamps wee off, I had to cut both old hoses with an Exacto blade so they would come off the nipples. Both nipples showed signs of rust an corrosion, but the vent nipple had considerably more on it. Still not sure if the gas was leaking from the weld where the nipple meets the tank or in the nipple itself, I set out to figure out a way to buff all the old corrosion off the tank area and the nipples. That was a long and frustrating procedur using a combinaiton of picks, a flexible shaft drill attachment with a small wire brush, emery cloth, a file, and a lot of foul language. The Chinese-made Blue Point lighted inspection mirror I found at a flea market for a buck, showed no signs of rust -through on the underside(thank you Jesus), but it was too large to get to every angle needed for a proper inspection. After several hours of diddling around with this, I pronounced the area solid and intact, and did the POR-15 prep of Marine Clean and Metal Ready prior to spraying on some Rustoleum galvanized paint over the area(BTW, I was out of POR -15, or it would've been the obvious choice.

Upon inspecting the vent hose(see photo) it was becoming clearer that this was the site of the leak, as the old hose was substantially flared out compared to the new one and my theory was that the rust scale had spread the hose in conjunction with the spring clamp weakening over the years and the filling of the tank to the top was geneating enough pressure to have the gas ooze out this vent hose connection. I ended up having to take tin snips and peel back the metal so I could get in there with a flex head 1/4" drive rat and a 6mm socket to tighten the two hose clamps. I couldn't get a new spring clamp to work its way back into place, so I went with two worm drives.

Since the access at the top was so restricted and the access from the bottom consisted of only two holes drilled in the rear sub frame that did no good and a small cavity behind the nipples where the hoses exited ot at towards the filler neck.. I couldn't even get my expensive "remote" spring cable clamp tool from Craftsman to fit in and remove the lone spring clamp up in there.

I'm glad I got htis taken care of and the next rust-related fix will be the iffy looking rear hydraulic brake lines back there.

DM&FS
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:24 PM   #3
Bullwinkle
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Default

Looks like for some reason I can't post the photos, so I guess you'll just have to trust me on this one.....

DM&FS
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