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Old 05-17-2012, 07:55 AM   #1
vtdave
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Default Powertrain warranty and oil selection

I just picked up a Rally Blue 2012 WRX 5-door. Photos to come soon.

I'm already thinking about my first oil change. Some of the best oil analyses for the 2.5T engine seem to be German Castrol 0w-30 and Rotella T6 5w-40.

My question: we know these oils are great, but do we know for sure that they satisfy the powertrain warranty requirements? Will I get tripped up because T6 is a "diesel engine oil" or "not energy conserving"?

Thanks,
Dave
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:22 AM   #2
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Read this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=499177

As for warranty issues, there is specific oil that your engine uses, not just synthetic 5w-30. If you want to keep your dealer happy if you actually do go in for warranty work, stick with Subaru OEM from the dealership and keep those receipts for proof of scheduled maintenance.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:26 AM   #3
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There is absolutely NOT one specific oil to use. Does anybody read manuals anymore?
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:28 AM   #4
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There is absolutely no reason you need to have dealer oil changes, or use OEM oil to have your warranty claims honored.

Personally, I'd stick with the spec'd weight, or close to, and keep all your receipts. That's going to be enough.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:55 AM   #5
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1. Open your owner's manual and read what it says. It will 100% spell out what you need to use. It will state if synthetic is required and to which standard it must meet (typically SM or greater) and recommended weights.
2. Buy based on item 1 and ensure you keep receipts to prove you have met item 1.
3. "diesel oil" or "not energy conserving" or other terms have NO APPLICABILITY to your warranty as you need to meet three things: Type (synthetic), API standard (SM or higher) and viscosity (5w-30).
4. This is America and you can do as you wish, but if your engine goes boom and you do not have proof of the three items above, you = screwed.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:10 AM   #6
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I am running Mobil 1 EP 5w-30. It meets the manual requirements. There are a few oil analyses on bob is the oil guy for this oil. Car is running great and have burned no oil. I was also worried about warranty concerns, but I flashed a stage 1 map in the meantime so i'm not too concerned about which oil i'm running anymore. I'm probably going to run this oil for 3-4k miles and do an UOA. Afterwards I'll be using rotella T6. It's cheaper as well.

Make sure to use the OEM oil filter though.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:08 AM   #7
vtdave
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The 2012 manual clearly states "5w-30 synthetic oil is the required oil..." The oil must be ILSAC GF-4 or GF-5 or API SM/SN with "resource conserving stamp."

My issue is that Shell RT6 and German Castrol don't meet these requirements for warranty CYA purposes. But I don't want to put in a thin 5w-30 that will shear down to a 20 weight oil and cause longer-term problems (out of warranty). SOOO...any recommendations for a GF-4, GF-5, SM, or SN 5w-30 that is a relatively thick oil and has good shear-resistance properties?

Redline23: thanks for your input on M1 EP 5w-30. My (maybe valid maybe not) fear about M1 is that it seems to shear down quickly, which in the 2.0L world was used to blame M1 for spun bearings.

Last edited by vtdave; 05-18-2012 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtdave View Post
The 2012 manual clearly states "5w-30 synthetic oil is the required oil..." The oil must be ILSAC GF-4 or GF-5 or API SM/SN with "resource conserving stamp."

My issue is that Shell RT6 and German Castrol don't meet these requirements for warranty CYA purposes. But I don't want to put in a thin 5w-30 that will shear down to a 20 weight oil and cause longer-term problems (out of warranty). SOOO...any recommendations for a GF-4, GF-5, SM, or SN 5w-30 that is a relatively thick oil and has good shear-resistance properties?

Redline23: thanks for your input on M1 EP 5w-30. My (maybe valid maybe not) fear about M1 is that it seems to shear down quickly, which in the 2.0L world was used to blame M1 for spun bearings.
good don't use Rotella T6, it's not made for our engines. If you take some time and search you can find at least two threads I remember where people were DENIED warranty claims because they had use Shell T6 (which doesn't meet the requirements).


I've used Motul 5w30 for the last two oil changes. It's worked out fine.

According to the manual, we have to change our oil EVERY 3500 miles. So most full synthetics won't breakdown that quick anyway. Heck, BMW oil change intervals are like 10k miles and they work out fine.

And here's my last oil report for proof:

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Old 05-18-2012, 10:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtdave View Post
Redline23: thanks for your input on M1 EP 5w-30. My (maybe valid maybe not) fear about M1 is that it seems to shear down quickly, which in the 2.0L world was used to blame M1 for spun bearings.
Not all M1s are created equal. The EP has 50% more additives, including friction modifiers, and UOAs prove it is a good oil to use in the EJ if you're looking to stick with 5W-30.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:26 AM   #10
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This so far is the best oil thread I've read yet on NASIOC...

...with that said, watch the Mods close it down now.

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Old 05-18-2012, 11:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip90 View Post
According to the manual, we have to change our oil EVERY 3500 miles. So most full synthetics won't breakdown that quick anyway. Heck, BMW oil change intervals are like 10k miles and they work out fine.
Just so you know, Subaru says oil change intervals for 2011+ WRXs running their synthetic oil are every 7,500 miles.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtdave View Post
The 2012 manual clearly states "5w-30 synthetic oil is the required oil..." The oil must be ILSAC GF-4 or GF-5 or API SM/SN with "resource conserving stamp."
This is what my 2011 manual says. When I emailed Subaru about 5w-40, they just kept using the word "recommended" concerning 5w-30. It still was unclear to me.

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Old 05-18-2012, 11:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWP n Gold View Post
Just so you know, Subaru says oil change intervals for 2011+ WRXs running their synthetic oil are every 7,500 miles.
From what I understood, if you read number 1, it says turbo vehicles are considered under severe driving conditions.

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Old 05-18-2012, 12:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip90 View Post
From what I understood, if you read number 1, it says turbo vehicles are considered under severe driving conditions.

That is for the 2009 model year which runs non-synthetic oil. 2011+ WRXs are required to run synthetic oil and the intervals are 7,500 miles.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:03 PM   #15
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For the 2012 cars, the requirement is:

1) 5W-30 synthetic, API standard (SM or higher). Period. There is no range. It's 5W-30. You can choose whatever oil and filter manufactuer as long as everything meets the spec. I stick with Subaru filters because they're well built and not any pricier that anything else out there.

2) 7,500 mile (or 7 1/2 months) oil and filter changes. For severe duty (ie lots of in town driving), then you're to default to 3,750 mile changes (or 3 3/4 months). Most of us fall under severe duty driving.


As for quality oils, Castrol Syntec 5W-30 seems to test quite well for WRX models on Bobs the Oil Guy forums and Blackstone tests. I've used Syntec with my prior car and it's done fine and I'm using it in my WRX.

I have "read" that Mobil 1 shears badly after a few thousand miles, but I've never seen the tests. Until I see the hard data, I put this up there with the notion that all 09+ WRXs will destroy their ringlands on the stock tune.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWP n Gold View Post
That is for the 2009 model year which runs non-synthetic oil. 2011+ WRXs are required to run synthetic oil and the intervals are 7,500 miles.
Thanks, I've looked up the 2011 schedule and I've been following an outdated one :sad banana:

That makes me feel a bit better, because 60 bucks every 3500 miles can get expensive quick right?
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMax View Post

...I put this up there with the notion that all 09+ WRXs will destroy their ringlands on the stock tune.
One only has to view the many stock dyno results to see how lean the stock tune is in initial boost.

Hard fact.

What I would like to see though is, like the second coming of Christ, an intervention from a renown Subaru engineer giving his thoughts on what's causing the ringland failures.

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Old 05-18-2012, 12:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Until I see the hard data, I put this up there with the notion that all 09+ WRXs will destroy their ringlands on the stock tune.
You need to do a lot more reading if you don't think the factory tune contributes to engine failures. And it started with the 2004 WRXs, not 2009. The manufacturers are equipping vehicles with these factory tunes, on purpose, for emissions regulations. This, combined with the fact that the pistons in the EJ255/7 are on the weaker side contribute to the engine failures. No one is saying all WRXs and STIs are going to blow up by 10K miles; but you can't ignore that the stock tune is dangerous.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXLTD View Post
What I would like to see though is, like the second coming of Christ, an intervention from a renown Subaru engineer giving his thoughts on what's causing the ringland failures.
What's causing the ringland failures is all the people parroting the term ringland failures as if people are seeing Subarus lined up on the side of the road like so much cordwood. Ringland failures were few and far between and they happened years ago and people keeping parroting the words ringland failures over and over and over as if they have done any statisitical analysis on the subject when they have in fact done zero and just like to post ringland failures over and over and over to cause everyone to worry so some other sheep will type out the word ringland failure over and over to continue to spread disinfomation.
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:22 PM   #20
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Total Quartz 9000 SM 5w-30 may fit the bill nicely.

http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produ...ng_29/5492.pdf

ILSAC GF-4, API SM, Flashpoint 227C, Pour point -36C, viscosity@100C: 12.01 mm2/s

I can get it for $6/quart
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by vtdave View Post
Total Quartz 9000 SM 5w-30 may fit the bill nicely.

http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produ...ng_29/5492.pdf

ILSAC GF-4, API SM, Flashpoint 227C, Pour point -36C, viscosity@100C: 12.01 mm2/s

I can get it for $6/quart
+1 We use Total Quartz in the E70 4.8 and it works great.
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