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Old 03-21-2013, 06:03 AM   #3126
John451
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Very little in an oci- as in less than a quart?
Not sure on amount but from Dealer oil change was 12mm over the Full mark and after 6000miles to the next oil change was about 4mm under the full mark. This seems to be a normal rate these days as have seen similar on the newer vehicles with lighter oils I've owned.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:20 AM   #3127
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Not sure on amount but from Dealer oil change was 12mm over the Full mark and after 6000miles to the next oil change was about 4mm under the full mark. This seems to be a normal rate these days as have seen similar on the newer vehicles with lighter oils I've owned.
Yeah that amount I could live with. putting in fresh 0w20 and burning through a quart in 2000 miles in 60 weather is where I find issue.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:15 AM   #3128
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It is kind of clear that the car does consume some amount normall threshold being up to a .3 to .5 of qt per 5 to 6k interval. What seems to alter this number is the amount of oil that is put in. Now I know most ppl put in 5.3qt and if they do a 5 to 6k run its not uncommon for them to still read full or a little under full when you factor into it that the car takes 4.9imp quarts so if you put in 5qt it is already .1 over imp, 5.3qts would be .4qts over imp measurement. I tend to stick with the imp measurements as you already probably knew since you changed the transmission fluid which is 3.1qt imp but 3.7us qt and the rear diff is .7imp but .8qt, if 3.1 in the tranny works and is confirmed by tranny dipstick I am ok with that. I recently discovered from a thread on nasioc that the factory actually overfills the tranny so 3.1 to 3.7 is apparently perfectly fine. If we use that as a baseline then 4.9 to 5.3 is perfectly fine. I don't know what crack they were smoking but if you figure that one out let me know. As for the red imp I ran it with a 4.5k oci just to see how I could murder the oil and sure enough the oil had broken down to near water, this was with the M1 in it, the engine was obviously loud which is generally a dead give away for me that the oil has broken down. Since that switch car now runs kendall 0w20 I prob won't murder this oil so I will stick to the 3.5 to 4k oci based on how the car is being driven. My dgm car I didn't burn the OEM oil much until 2.5k on the clock then I ate some of it, then I decided to high rpm it some more in 3.6k miles I chugged a respectable .3 to .4 qts however from factory the car had less than a full 5qt of oil, I checked oil level on dealer lot while I was replacing engine filter and a few other parts of the car It is my opinion that wether or not your car uses oil at this point eventually it will consume some amount of this type of oil. I expect when summer hits more ppl will notice some oil burn off. It seems drink a bit of oil at 2k and up, probably due to oil dilution. In comparison with other cars with this weight of oil I would say the oil usage is within what I have normally seen. I had the accord when 5w20 was still the oem fill, then in mid 2010 production year honda switched to 0w20. The 4cyl started to drink it but the v6 drank it at a higher rate. Now 0w20 I would normally run only in winter and 5w20 in summer for obvious reasons. The 0w20 ended up being consumed more which is how I established my baseline for what I perceive to be normal consumption and an issue. AT the rate your car is consuming 79letour, and others I would say you fall quite a bit outside my normal 0w20 oil usage threshold which indicates an issue. I believe the manufacturers emphasis to meet EPA numbers has now reversed the way the world normal works, sure you can get more mpg but you MIGHT need to do more oil changes however eventhough there is that disclaimer they still tell ppl to use OCI which I believe to be way too long. NO matter what advances get made in oil tech if oil gets diluted and burns off then you have to make some sort of adjustment, they then cover their ass with the literature about topping off the oil. So your car gets better mpg but you need to buy more expensive oil and might have to change it more often eventhough we say you don't have to. Its pretty much a whole bunch of lawyer double talk.

http://news.consumerreports.org/cars...sive-cars.html
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:29 AM   #3129
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Holy gigantic block of text!
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:43 AM   #3130
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Wow- While a bit hard to read, I would agree with that. Especially about the lawyer double talk...
But for the many folks who are consuming lots of oil theres no real end in sight except to try and get rid of the car. what does one do when the taste of subaru has soured but one still really wants good awd?
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:53 AM   #3131
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I think overfilling is one of the main factors. Since I quit letting dealers grossly overfill it the consumption is a bit slower. Still burning a lot though.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:58 AM   #3132
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if you want cheap awd, you are pretty much in a subaru
You can go german but for the price you could have two subarus. The other awd are just fwd until slip occurs. You just have to be persistent until you reach the threshold, summer heat plus high rpm should do the trick. to flyboy yes holy bloack of text batman
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:05 AM   #3133
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Gregorz reached the threshold, but alas- subaru doesnt have a real grip of the situation, as his replaced shortblock is apparently burnin the stuff.
I'm really considering finding some "lucky" dealer or possibly individual, who wants the "latest wondermachine" and trade "down" to a 2010 or 2011 Impreza similarly equipped to mine.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:12 AM   #3134
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or keep it for 2 to 3 years and replace it with a new imp,
curious how did you break in the engine this time around gregorz, did you do it
the same as the first one or did you take it up in rpms and put some load on her?
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:25 AM   #3135
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or keep it for 2 to 3 years and replace it with a new imp,
curious how did you break in the engine this time around gregorz, did you do it
the same as the first one or did you take it up in rpms and put some load on her?
Well I asked the service rep if I have to break this short block in and he said "no, it's already broken in at the factory so I don't have I worry about any kind of break in techniques for the car"
My driving style consists of shifts at about 2600-3000rpm. No hard driving but once in a while on a highway on ramp I do like I give it a little more(4000-4500). I didn't really change my break in style because through reading the forums, it seems there isn't one specific technique that works because some easy drivers are burning oil as well. I do know taking the revs really high (5000 +) will definitely burn the oil faster.(through my experience with my first motor)
So after the service rep said I don't have to worry about breaking it in, I just continued driving it as I always have.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:38 AM   #3136
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or keep it for 2 to 3 years and replace it with a new imp,
curious how did you break in the engine this time around gregorz, did you do it
the same as the first one or did you take it up in rpms and put some load on her?
I'm thinking I should go "old school" if ever replace it with another sube...
The 2011 foresters started the fb revolution" and I dont think I'd like a new car with all the bs this car has.
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:41 PM   #3137
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I recognize that picture above. What a coincidence too because I've gone another 10,000 miles and I'm pulling them again Saturday morning. I'm curious to know what the plugs look like for those that are burning more than a quart of oil in an OCI.

I changed the oil and flushed the brake fluid last weekend. I saved some oil in a bottle to send off to Blackstone Labs, just got to request the kit. I've been forgetting to do that all this week.
With the brakes, I had some pulling to the right when I hit the brake but that's all straightened out now (literally) with new brake fluid.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:43 PM   #3138
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My latest "work" I've done is carefully pulling the rubber gasket under the antenna back out with a card and a small crooked pick from work. The touchless carwash caused the gasket to wrinkle under the antenna and only about a third of it was still visible. huge pita and will be putting some glue on that gasket to keep this from recurring. some thin layer of non-glossy glue...
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:48 PM   #3139
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I also fixed a bad rattle the other day. The "gauge cluster" rattle. A mild hammer fist to the top of the dash and it hasn't returned. Fingers crossed as that one was ANNOYING!
Now to figure out that rear hatch rattle. Actually it sounds like several rattles from the hatch area.
I'm gonna scour ebay for some tweets, and pop off the dash grilles and fix the a-pillar rattle and the crappy tweeters in one fell swoop. See- I'm trying to make LEMON-ADE!
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:28 PM   #3140
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check that you still have the trunk stoppers, mine went mia and the rear hatch was rattling so I got replacments and add some super glue so that they would stay put, now the rear rattle is gone.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:59 PM   #3141
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My '05 STi consumed about a quart of oil every 2k miles. Don't kid yourself by thinking you'll get no consumption with the non FB motors. There is ALWAYS the potential for oil consumption in practically any car you buy.

79, my only suggestion is do the consumption test and beat the piss out of the car for the duration of the test. You'll have the most chance of getting to that threshold.
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:25 AM   #3142
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I'm starting a consumption test in the next week or so.
Thing is, at 20k++, I put a half quart in two thousand miles ago, and havent lost any yet, so I'm losing confidence that I'll burn "enough''.
And as much as I'd love to, I am not going to be beating the piss out of the car to try and make it burn enough. That might prove to be a bad idea. Besides, theres no guarantee the new shortblock will solve it, and then I will have spent all kinds of time driving to dealers jumping through hoops...
I'm hoping Mastro will have a clean low-mile 5mt 2011 sitting in their used lot, and maybe I'll drive it and see how the seats feel. and how badly it rattles. I have driven a Honda CRX before. and those cars really rattle. But my 2012 Impreza "lol premium" is seriously a loud rattly car.
Will look at the rear hatch this afternoon, Been going over the car this week, cleaning here and there and just keeping it up...
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:30 AM   #3143
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I also fixed a bad rattle the other day. The "gauge cluster" rattle. A mild hammer fist to the top of the dash and it hasn't returned. Fingers crossed as that one was ANNOYING!
Now to figure out that rear hatch rattle. Actually it sounds like several rattles from the hatch area.
I'm gonna scour ebay for some tweets, and pop off the dash grilles and fix the a-pillar rattle and the crappy tweeters in one fell swoop. See- I'm trying to make LEMON-ADE!
LOL. i would love to hear if your fist to the dash was a permanent solution, but somehow i'm doubtful. (sorry, don't mean to reign down more lemons)

i too have some hatch rattles yet i have my stoppers in place. i'm actually less bothered by those compared to ones in the dash...something about the proximity to me and my ability to do something about them while driving ???

the A-pillar issue is very fixable...i did it myself and then when i had it in at the dealer, they did a more thorough job of it. (i stuffed things between the pillar and the glass and that stopped the sound...that was more reliable than propping things up from under the covering by going through the tweeter dash "pockets."


the tweeter upgrade was certainly worth it, however. i just went with the Subaru Kicker upgrade. after reprogramming my limited non-navi HU, it got much betters sound. (not sure if the premium can have it's default EQ and Loudness turned off)
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:54 AM   #3144
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I'm starting a consumption test in the next week or so.
Thing is, at 20k++, I put a half quart in two thousand miles ago, and havent lost any yet, so I'm losing confidence that I'll burn "enough''.
And as much as I'd love to, I am not going to be beating the piss out of the car to try and make it burn enough. That might prove to be a bad idea. Besides, theres no guarantee the new shortblock will solve it, and then I will have spent all kinds of time driving to dealers jumping through hoops...
I'm hoping Mastro will have a clean low-mile 5mt 2011 sitting in their used lot, and maybe I'll drive it and see how the seats feel. and how badly it rattles. I have driven a Honda CRX before. and those cars really rattle. But my 2012 Impreza "lol premium" is seriously a loud rattly car.
Will look at the rear hatch this afternoon, Been going over the car this week, cleaning here and there and just keeping it up...
When I was car searching I test drove the 2011. Seats were bad, felt like I was sitting in a hole. The seats are installed in a lower position as compared to the 2012 so it feels like you have to really look above the dash to see the road.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:17 PM   #3145
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Originally Posted by 79letour View Post
I'm starting a consumption test in the next week or so.
Thing is, at 20k++, I put a half quart in two thousand miles ago, and havent lost any yet, so I'm losing confidence that I'll burn "enough''.
And as much as I'd love to, I am not going to be beating the piss out of the car to try and make it burn enough. That might prove to be a bad idea. Besides, theres no guarantee the new shortblock will solve it, and then I will have spent all kinds of time driving to dealers jumping through hoops...
I'm hoping Mastro will have a clean low-mile 5mt 2011 sitting in their used lot, and maybe I'll drive it and see how the seats feel. and how badly it rattles. I have driven a Honda CRX before. and those cars really rattle. But my 2012 Impreza "lol premium" is seriously a loud rattly car.
Will look at the rear hatch this afternoon, Been going over the car this week, cleaning here and there and just keeping it up...
The short block should fix it, I know Gregorz4 is still having issues, however my (tech) friend says that it would remedy your problem. He could have problems that could be a result of the installation (e.g. seals, etc.). If what you're saying is that you don't want a short block replacement (and jumping through all the hoops), why are you even doing a consumption test? Keep in mind, you folks consuming oil are the minority, most of us have engines that consume little to no oil.

I don't see any problems with driving the car hard, why do you feel it would be a bad idea? You've obviously driven it hard before (120 MPH and extended periods of fast speeds on the turnpike), so I don't know why you have a problem now? Anyways, it is your choice, I'm just trying to help you achieve (what I thought was) your goal.

Also to note, the previous generation of Imprezas are not immune to rattles. My STI (granted it is slightly different) has it's own fair share of rattles.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:49 PM   #3146
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Would performing a compression and or leak down test be advised for gregorz. Or having them check more thoroughly where oil might be spritzing from
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:22 PM   #3147
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Would performing a compression and or leak down test be advised for gregorz. Or having them check more thoroughly where oil might be spritzing from
If and hopefully not when the oil light comes on again I will go in and make sure they do something about it. Right now I'm hoping it was something related to breaking in the new short block and it won't return. But if it does...of to Subaru I go!!
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:15 PM   #3148
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The short block should fix it, I know Gregorz4 is still having issues, however my (tech) friend says that it would remedy your problem. He could have problems that could be a result of the installation (e.g. seals, etc.). If what you're saying is that you don't want a short block replacement (and jumping through all the hoops), why are you even doing a consumption test? Keep in mind, you folks consuming oil are the minority, most of us have engines that consume little to no oil.

I don't see any problems with driving the car hard, why do you feel it would be a bad idea? You've obviously driven it hard before (120 MPH and extended periods of fast speeds on the turnpike), so I don't know why you have a problem now? Anyways, it is your choice, I'm just trying to help you achieve (what I thought was) your goal.

Also to note, the previous generation of Imprezas are not immune to rattles. My STI (granted it is slightly different) has it's own fair share of rattles.

I'm just not going to go driving like a bat out of hell. I'm going to do this to document the issue. I'm not burning nearly enough to hope for a fix.
as to the previous model years seats being lower, thats fine. I'm a little on the taller side. Do they squeak???
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:16 PM   #3149
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Plus - WRX seats will fit into an 11' or 10' model!
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:48 PM   #3150
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Well, I'll add myself to the list of people who are burning oil. Thankfully, it doesn't seem like I'm burning a lot, to the point where the engine oil light comes on. I topped off my car probably about a month ago because it was 3/8" below the full line, to just below the full line. Checked my oil today and its and 3/8" above the low line.

I plan on changing my oil next weekend, so I should be "OK" running at the level for another week, probably another 250 miles or so. I think I have close to 5000 on the fill now for this change. Plan on using Amsoil Signature for this change, all though it may not be worth it in the long run since my car is consuming oil.

Should I top it off to the full line for this week, or should I be OK running it at the level its at now? Don't really want to waste the oil if I'm going to be changing it next weekend.
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