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Old 01-31-2014, 05:15 PM   #4751
jr0bb5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subypete View Post

Thanks RexyGirl, I got my short block replaced under warranty, consumption now is less than before (original block consumed 1 qt per 900 miles) , but i am burning 1/2 qt per 1200 miles with this new block. I have just been topping it off. I will ask my dealer about this on the next visit
Thats exactly the boat I'm in now. My original block got to the point where it was consuming 1 quart per 900/1000 miles. My new block is up to about 1/2 quart per 1000 miles, but seems to be getting worse.

I'm at the point where I just don't want to deal with it anymore. As soon as I can sell the car for a bit of a profit, it'll be gone and can be someone else's problem.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:25 PM   #4752
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Originally Posted by jr0bb5 View Post

Thats exactly the boat I'm in now. My original block got to the point where it was consuming 1 quart per 900/1000 miles. My new block is up to about 1/2 quart per 1000 miles, but seems to be getting worse.

I'm at the point where I just don't want to deal with it anymore. As soon as I can sell the car for a bit of a profit, it'll be gone and can be someone else's problem.
Don't you have to disclose the oil usage? Might as well get it fixed first
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:07 PM   #4753
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Originally Posted by jr0bb5 View Post
Thats exactly the boat I'm in now. My original block got to the point where it was consuming 1 quart per 900/1000 miles. My new block is up to about 1/2 quart per 1000 miles, but seems to be getting worse.

I'm at the point where I just don't want to deal with it anymore. As soon as I can sell the car for a bit of a profit, it'll be gone and can be someone else's problem.
jrobb5, I feel your pain, although I did not have to wait months for new shortblock replacement.
It is disappointing that my new shortblock still consumes oil. I've been topping it off 1/2 qt every 1,250 miles (so 1 qt per 2,500 miles). I keep my "trip A" in the Odometer as a reminder when I need to topoff (sad...). If I do not top it off at the 1,250 miles mark, the low oil level light will come on between 1,800 to 1,900 miles, consumption seems to accelerate after it is half qt low.

Now with the TSB, they are not replacing shortblocks anymore but instead just rings.

I came across this video on yourube, though it is not the same engine, there is a lot of "attention to detail" here otherwise there will be bunch of leaks horror stories like zgb2506 and snowdog are currently facing...

Video is quite long with some fast forwarding...

Makes me question, if I do qualify for ring replacement, should I go for it?
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:09 PM   #4754
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Originally Posted by jr0bb5 View Post
Thats exactly the boat I'm in now. My original block got to the point where it was consuming 1 quart per 900/1000 miles. My new block is up to about 1/2 quart per 1000 miles, but seems to be getting worse. I'm at the point where I just don't want to deal with it anymore. As soon as I can sell the car for a bit of a profit, it'll be gone and can be someone else's problem.
Profit? How do you profit from a car?
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:14 PM   #4755
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Profit? How do you profit from a car?
I think he means "sell it for more than I owe on the auto loan", which means that he's currently upside down (or under water, depending on which terminology you prefer) on the loan.
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:06 PM   #4756
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Well-he *may* have been helped alittle by soa, as he had to wait and wait. And wait.
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:08 PM   #4757
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I think he means "sell it for more than I owe on the auto loan", which means that he's currently upside down (or under water, depending on which terminology you prefer) on the loan.
Exactly. I may be able to break even on my loan right now if I were to sell it privately. The longer I pay on the loan, the bigger profit I should be able to make on the sale. The loan won't be paid off for 3 more years, but who knows what my consumption rate will be by then.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:35 PM   #4758
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Originally Posted by G2Spfld View Post
You can get whitish goo under oil cap from condensation, but I've never seen what you've stated from the dipstick unless it had a fair amount of coolant in it. I think Subaru needs to take a lesson from Porsche and just keep perfecting a proven design. I'm thinking they just didn't have ducks in a row before releasing the FB series, or FA for that matter from what I hear about BRZ oil consumption. Burning oil at this rate in the name of being more fuel efficient doesn't sound very "green" to me. I wonder how PSEV it is when its burning large amounts of oil. That might be a way to get things done on the 13's that burn oil. If they give you a hard time about being normal limits, get an emissions test and see if all the cats have cleaned the oil burner enough to be PSEV. Maybe they would be more inclined to act if the public knew they were advertising PSEV and the emissions were upper limits. I can't talk though, mine isn't burning (knock on wood) but I hate seeing and hearing about it cause its disappointing.
PSEV??? I'm not familiar with Partial Sero Emissions Vehicles...can you define with word Sero for me??
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:54 PM   #4759
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Perpetually Sooty Emissions Vehicle
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Old 01-31-2014, 11:10 PM   #4760
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Pseudo Safe Emissions Vehicle
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Old 01-31-2014, 11:16 PM   #4761
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Hahaha nice!
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:21 AM   #4762
sgoldste01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr0bb5 View Post
Exactly. I may be able to break even on my loan right now if I were to sell it privately. The longer I pay on the loan, the bigger profit I should be able to make on the sale. The loan won't be paid off for 3 more years, but who knows what my consumption rate will be by then.
Then try selling it privately now and see what happens. Clean it up, take a bunch of nice photos, write up a nice Craigslist ad, and see what happens. The Craigslist ad is free, so you won't be out any advertising money. The worst that will happen is you'll get no takers. Or you just might get out of a car you're not happy with.

This is how I dumped my TDI that was a reliability cluster-eff.
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:35 AM   #4763
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PSEV??? I'm not familiar with Partial Sero Emissions Vehicles...can you define with word Sero for me??
Roflmao- (accidentally let that slip without proof reading it- so this is the BS answer to cover for it) I figured it would contain soot from the burned oil. Hence partial soot emissions vehicle.
Latin- Verb
present active serō, present infinitive serere, perfect active sēvī, supine satum I sow, plant. (of persons) I beget, bring forth, produce. (figuratively) I found, establish; scatter, spread, disseminate; propagate; excite; cause, produce. Inflection

So- partial scatter/spread emissions vehicle PSEV

Huh, small iPhone keyboard and quick typing without correcting "word corrector" yielded a somewhat true statement for several of you. Maybe we need to get new decals made if you burn oil. Lol

Last edited by G2Spfld; 02-01-2014 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 02-01-2014, 05:33 PM   #4764
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Does anyone actually have confirmation of SOA compensating anyone in these instances? If so was it a buyback, vehicle replacement, credit, or what?
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:19 PM   #4765
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They didn't do anything for me. A dealer did.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:37 AM   #4766
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I was talking to someone I know who has a 13 Premium with cvt. Has had three oil changes. She has never had an oil light *yet*, but what really surprised me was her response when asked about the blue "engine cold" light. According to her and her boyfriend, they have always just driven it as soon as it fires up. They had no idea what I meant by "warming up" the car.
Maybe they're lucky, but I'm thinking thaT in time this may be an oil burner. It's only had one full oci so far.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:41 AM   #4767
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^^ Are you suggesting that we don't leave the driveway until the blue light turns off?
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:05 AM   #4768
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Originally Posted by 79letour View Post
I was talking to someone I know who has a 13 Premium with cvt. Has had three oil changes. She has never had an oil light *yet*, but what really surprised me was her response when asked about the blue "engine cold" light. According to her and her boyfriend, they have always just driven it as soon as it fires up. They had no idea what I meant by "warming up" the car. Maybe they're lucky, but I'm thinking thaT in time this may be an oil burner. It's only had one full oci so far.
I don't always wait till the light on my 13 sport goes off. Only after an overnight in cold weather, and not always then. I'm at 22K now, and usually an OCI of 3-3500 miles with RP. This last one I waited intentionally for 8000 miles only changing my Roki filter at 4000 miles. I have not had a light or even added a drop of oil. It was just barely under the full mark when I changed, and I believe that to just be as a result of the filter change and not adding after. Mine hasn't used a drop of oil, and I drive it harder than I do easy. My niece had her light on her 13' base a couple times. She waits till light is off usually, but she babies hers never getting RPM'S very high. Even her break in was very easy. So I attribute her usage to babying car too much. And that said, our mpg's are not but 1-1.5 mpg different usually. Make of it what u will, but I think these engines need RPM'S to not only run decently but keep from using oil. That said, I still think there is a flaw somewhere that is causing oil burn.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:18 AM   #4769
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I don't think waiting for the car to warm up or not has an effect on oil consumption - today's oils are robust enough to be OK even on a cold engine. If you're driving like a maniac when its still cold, then maybe, but if you're driving it easy until it warms up, I don't think that would cause oil consumption.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:21 AM   #4770
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I **never** wait for my blue temperature light to turn off. Even on a 0 degree morning, after the car has been sitting in my detached, unheated garage overnight, the longest I'll wait before I drive is 1 minute. Having said that, I'm always gentle on my acceleration until that light goes out. But I don't just sit in the garage waiting.

My car consumes an inconsequential amount of oil between changes. I've never added oil to it. I use a 6.5k mile OCI.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:04 AM   #4771
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Yep, no reason not to drive right away, just don't thrash it, like ANY engine, until it's warm. And just because the blue light is off doesn't mean it's fully warm. The blue light goes off at 120F if I remember correctly.

If you do constant short trips, like me, 1-2 times a week take it out on the highway and get everything fully up to operating temperature to burn off excess moisture that IS the death of oil/engines.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:50 AM   #4772
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She starts the car,throws it into D and then drives it hard for an hour.
But it has never been 7500 miles on an oci.
Ive always let the engine warm up, it doesnt take very long and when everything is cold, that would be where the most oil consumption would be happening. at least if its a ring issue.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:52 AM   #4773
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Im not saying to baby the cars, just that letting metals expand to somewhat operating temps is prefferred for maximum engine life and proper function.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:59 AM   #4774
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I thought I remembered reading somewhere (some article about maximizing MPGs) that warming up a car is pointless given the advances in today's oil blends. If you start and drive hard when cold, then yeah, thats not good, but I believe today's oils protect enough even when driven while cold.

But as with anything, its personal preference and what do I know I'm a designer not an engineer.
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Old 02-03-2014, 02:50 PM   #4775
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Im not saying to baby the cars, just that letting metals expand to somewhat operating temps is prefferred for maximum engine life and proper function.
I agree with letting metals warm up before flogging it. I never flog it until it's ran several miles even in warm weather
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