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Old 10-23-2012, 03:46 PM   #1626
79letour
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Me either. But it already holds more than a lot of fullsize trucks. Overfilling it, at the dealer or consumer level is just plain ignorance and stupidity. Half a quart probably won't hurt anything. But nothing was amiss when my level was at spec. When it went up to 5/8" or so above the full line after a dealer fill, that's when the consumption started. Whether it has anything to do with the oil level is still a mystery. And subaru hasn't been any help. So I was only advising to err on the side of caution. Just because I have a $20,000 car that burns what I deem to be too much oil.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:57 PM   #1627
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I just changed my oil and put 5.3 qts in. On the low side of the dipstick, the level is right on the FULL dot. On the high side of the dipstick, it's approximately 1/8" above the FULL dot.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:30 PM   #1628
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Sounds right. I've never heard of anyone pouring in the right amount and having it more that 1/4" over the full mark.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:50 PM   #1629
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Well I went to the dealer today in anticipation of starting my oil consumption test and to have my seat back fixed.

To make a long story short, they fixed the seat, but was told (just like 79) that these engines and many new engines from various car manufacturers just burn oil. The reason I was given is because of the extremely light weight oil that is required, like 0W-20, to meet strict fuel economy regulations. The tech also said that unless I'm burning in excess of a quart per 1200 miles, that a consumption test is a waste of time and nothing would be done because of the allowences dictated by Subaru.

I then asked the tech if he would suggest using a different weight oil. He told me he officialy couldn't reccomend it, but if it was his car, he would run a 5W-30 Dino oil and change it every 3000 miles. He also said, after learning that I use AMSOIL, that he believes that oil to be complete junk and he's had to rebuild several, fairly new engines because of people using it and following AMSoil's extended drain intervals... some food for thought.

Anyway, I'm still not happy about the fact that I was unlucky and received an oil burner and there's nothing I can do about it, but I'm done crying about it. If my engine fails, it fails and hopefully will be covered by the warranty... time to build that bridge and get over it I guess.

Last edited by jr0bb5; 10-25-2012 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:56 PM   #1630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr0bb5 View Post
I then asked the tech if he would suggest using a different weight oil. He told me he officialy couldn't reccomend it, but if it was his car, he would run a 5W-30 Dino oil and change it every 3000 miles. He also said, after learning that I use AMSOIL, that he believes that oil to be complete junk and he's had to rebuild several, fairly new engines because of people using it and following AMSoil's extended drain intervals... some food for thought.
i wouldn't run a dino oil, a synthetic 5w30, yes.

there are so incredibly many UOA's that shows Amsoil to be an excellent oil I say he has no clue what he is talking about. now running over the recommended interval w/o getting a UOA is pretty idiotic.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:21 PM   #1631
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At 320 miles now on the Castrol Edge/Syntec 5w30, and mpg's haven't suffered in the LEAST!
I mentioned it in another thread but since its relevant I don't mind repeating it here.
But I think I *may* be getting slightly better efficiency since my engine is only spinning around in 5.1 quarts instead of the 6.5++ its had at dealer fills. Even with the thicker oil, having the right amount (admittedly less .2qt) vs an extra quart or two of the 0w20 "super" oil may be more efficient and thus have the same or possibly better fuel economy. I mean, if I were to notice an mpg loss, it would be sooner after the switch than later. Right now its still relatively new, not sheared down, and at its thickest.
If it makes it 5000 miles without appreciable loss, I'll be happy. And as Jrobb, I'll just focus on getting my seat permanently repaired and makin lemonade out of this mess of a car.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:27 PM   #1632
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Jrobb- although I'm only 320 miles into this change, I have to suggest that you consider doing the same. It won't hurt anything. And it does quiet down the engine a bit.
Man, I just wanna get another 1000-1500 on this so I can see what's up. That's why I changed it when I did. It had way too much in it, and lost a quarter inch or so in a thousand miles, so I took the bull by the horns.
If you don't want to make the jump to 5w, try a 0w30 or, better yet, 0w40.
As someone else said- for science!!!
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:53 PM   #1633
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I'm on my 2nd consumption test right now. My other concern I'm trying to get fixed is has anyone been having their oil pressure light on???????????
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:01 PM   #1634
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No- it sounds like you have problems big enough for soa not to ignore, though. Should get yours fixed or replaced.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:08 PM   #1635
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I just picked up some more Amsoil Severe Gear. Not that it at all needs to be done again, but next oil change, around 21k, I plan on doing all the fluids again, and never touching them again. There was enough metal particles in the diffs/trans, that I'm doing the final change more out of curiosity and obsessiveness.
I think I'm also going to start looking into a brake pad upgrade soon. It could use a little more stopping force.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:35 PM   #1636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentanthony33 View Post
I'm on my 2nd consumption test right now. My other concern I'm trying to get fixed is has anyone been having their oil pressure light on???????????

na man, Thats a pretty big issue if its infact a real issue. When does it happen?
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:38 PM   #1637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr0bb5 View Post
Well I went to the dealer today in anticipation of starting my oil consumption test and to have my seat back fixed.

To make a long story short, they fixed the seat, but was told (just like 79) that these engines and many new engines from various car manufacturers just burn oil. The reason I was given is because of the extremely light weight oil that is required, like 0W-20, to meet strict fuel economy regulations. The tech also said that unless I'm burning in excess of a quart per 1200 miles, that a consumption test is a waste of time and nothing would be done because of the allowences dictated by Subaru.

I then asked the tech if he would suggest using a different weight oil. He told me he officialy couldn't reccomend it, but if it was his car, he would run a 5W-30 Dino oil and change it every 3000 miles. He also said, after learning that I use AMSOIL, that he believes that oil to be complete junk and he's had to rebuild several, fairly new engines because of people using it and following AMSoil's extended drain intervals... some food for thought.

Anyway, I'm still not happy about the fact that I was unlucky and received an oil burner and there's nothing I can do about it, but I'm done crying about it. If my engine fails, it fails and hopefully will be covered by the warranty... time to build that bridge and get over it I guess.

It just goes to show you that maybe the best answers arnt from people at the dealerships. I cant fathom why he would say switch to dyno. Synthetic is just better. I have heard of Dyno during break in but after the first 2k switch and be done with it. Amsoil is just as good as any other oil (im sure that might make some mad since they pay a premium) Ensuring you have clean oil and the right amount is more important than what brand you run.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:54 PM   #1638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79letour View Post
Jrobb- although I'm only 320 miles into this change, I have to suggest that you consider doing the same. It won't hurt anything. And it does quiet down the engine a bit.
Man, I just wanna get another 1000-1500 on this so I can see what's up. That's why I changed it when I did. It had way too much in it, and lost a quarter inch or so in a thousand miles, so I took the bull by the horns.
If you don't want to make the jump to 5w, try a 0w30 or, better yet, 0w40.
As someone else said- for science!!!
a xw30 is only maybe a 30% increase in viscosity, a xw40 would be 100%+ no way i would try that.
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:26 AM   #1639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79letour View Post
I just picked up some more Amsoil Severe Gear. Not that it at all needs to be done again, but next oil change, around 21k, I plan on doing all the fluids again, and never touching them again. There was enough metal particles in the diffs/trans, that I'm doing the final change more out of curiosity and obsessiveness.
I think I'm also going to start looking into a brake pad upgrade soon. It could use a little more stopping force.
I personally think that it's a bit unnecessary to do that personally. You will most likely find the rear diff fluid dirty every time you change it. It's completely normal.

It can't hurt the car, but it can hurt your wallet.
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:39 AM   #1640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auskip07

It just goes to show you that maybe the best answers arnt from people at the dealerships. I cant fathom why he would say switch to dyno. Synthetic is just better. I have heard of Dyno during break in but after the first 2k switch and be done with it. Amsoil is just as good as any other oil (im sure that might make some mad since they pay a premium) Ensuring you have clean oil and the right amount is more important than what brand you run.
Yeah I don't really get why he suggested to use a non synthetic oil. He did bring up a good point, however, by reminding me that Subaru says its OK to use pretty much any kind of oil available to top off between drain intervals. This includes dyno oil up to a 5W-40 IIRC. This means that if you go the full, Subaru suggested 7500 miles between oil changes and you burn a quart of oil every 1200 miles, your engine will be full of what ever oil you chose to top you engine off with.

I also don't agree with him that AMSOIL is a bad oil either. I wouldn't, however, even consider going as long as AMSOIL says is OK to go between drain intervals even with their XL or Signature series oils. I get AMSOIL for under $5 a quart so I'm not too concerned about the money factor of changing my oil more often.
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:53 AM   #1641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79letour
Jrobb- although I'm only 320 miles into this change, I have to suggest that you consider doing the same. It won't hurt anything. And it does quiet down the engine a bit.
Man, I just wanna get another 1000-1500 on this so I can see what's up. That's why I changed it when I did. It had way too much in it, and lost a quarter inch or so in a thousand miles, so I took the bull by the horns.
If you don't want to make the jump to 5w, try a 0w30 or, better yet, 0w40.
As someone else said- for science!!!
I planned on trying 0W-30 oil for my last fill, but AMSOIL doesnt carry a 0W-30 in their OE series oil. Seeing as I'm sticking with a 5000 mile drain interval, I didn't feel like paying $9 per quart for their 0W-30 signature series oil. I did also think about trying a 5-20 or 5-30 oil. My only issue with a 5W oil is that it doesn't protect as much as a 0W does on cold start-ups.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:17 AM   #1642
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Originally Posted by jr0bb5 View Post
I also don't agree with him that AMSOIL is a bad oil either. I wouldn't, however, even consider going as long as AMSOIL says is OK to go between drain intervals even with their XL or Signature series oils. I get AMSOIL for under $5 a quart so I'm not too concerned about the money factor of changing my oil more often.
I've been using Amsoil OE 0W20, on a 5k mile change interval. No consumption.

What Amsoil do you get for under $5/quart, and how do you get that price? Are you a distributor?
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Old 10-26-2012, 07:46 AM   #1643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr0bb5

I planned on trying 0W-30 oil for my last fill, but AMSOIL doesnt carry a 0W-30 in their OE series oil. Seeing as I'm sticking with a 5000 mile drain interval, I didn't feel like paying $9 per quart for their 0W-30 signature series oil. I did also think about trying a 5-20 or 5-30 oil. My only issue with a 5W oil is that it doesn't protect as much as a 0W does on cold start-ups.
It has to be bitter cold for 5w not to protect as well as 0w
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Old 10-26-2012, 07:55 AM   #1644
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From the fr-s forums, it seems that those guys are running 5w40 with no problems.
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:28 AM   #1645
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From the fr-s forums, it seems that those guys are running 5w40 with no problems.
You are also in Florida. Cold weather starts are much less of an issue for you.

I don't think the 0w-20 is the issue, because most drivers do not have engines consuming oil. If you have a car that is not consuming oil, stick with the 0W-20.

I do think that 5w-30 probably won't hurt anything but MPG's, and probably not noticeably so (1-2 mpg's maybe? Driving style will account for more than that).
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:58 AM   #1646
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knowing what I know now, I'd have just run 5w30 from the start. Losing a half a mile per gallon (theoretically) is worth a longer engine life in my opinion.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:02 AM   #1647
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I think you would have shorter engine life with burning oil only if you didn't keep the levels current.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:46 AM   #1648
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After exhaustive reading on oils, I've come to the conclusion that 0w20 is a gimmick, and everything I've found says that for "hard use" or anything other than hypermiling, a thicker oil is better for engine life. To each his own. But there are a ton of cases of oil consumption attributed to super-thin oils on virtually every car forum.
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:47 AM   #1649
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79, shear isn't really an issue for synthetics. Viscosity is one of many things an analysis will show you.
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:18 AM   #1650
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I was only pointing out that the oil @300 miles hasn't been spun through the engine and "broken down" or sheared an appreciable amount, so when its new, oil is at its thickest. I know full well that synthetics aren't as succeptible to shearing break-down.
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