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Old 11-07-2012, 11:30 PM   #1876
2012ruimpreza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwilson592
I have a stupid question. How long should you wait to check the oil after running the engine? I checked my oil after work one day (waiting a few minutes like instructed in the manual) and the level was approx between the full and low level. A week or so later I went on travel for a week came back and checked the oil level again prior to leaving for another trip and it was slightly above the full mark. Oh and the car wasn't driven or touched at all during the week I was gone. I really wasn't expecting that much of a difference when I checked it.
Considering the how thin 0w20 is I doubt anything after a 5 min span would do anything to the level. You shook a jug of this stuff? It feels about the same thickness as shaking a gallon of milk. If you was to turn the jug upside down it wouldn't take 15 min for 95% of it to run in the sink would it? I believe the same principal here relates.
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:15 AM   #1877
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Originally Posted by jwilson592 View Post
I have a stupid question. How long should you wait to check the oil after running the engine? I checked my oil after work one day (waiting a few minutes like instructed in the manual) and the level was approx between the full and low level. A week or so later I went on travel for a week came back and checked the oil level again prior to leaving for another trip and it was slightly above the full mark. Oh and the car wasn't driven or touched at all during the week I was gone. I really wasn't expecting that much of a difference when I checked it.
I only check my oil when the engine is stone cold. This gives the oil time to settle into the pan, and it makes the dipstick easier to read.

I generally also check my oil only when it's in the same place in my garage, to eliminate changes in the car's angle.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:29 AM   #1878
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Not that I'm really in a position to trade, but I saw an 09' Mitsubishi Ralliart yesterday for sale. Man, non-squeaky Recaros and a (presumably) stable oil level are VERY tempting.
RECAROS! Ftw!
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:22 PM   #1879
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Although some people would say to idle the car for a few minutes, drive the car under normal driving conditions until the thermostat is where it should be. Then, check it. If you check it in the morning, cold, and you presumably have no leaks, add a quart to your reading. Hope this was helpful. :0)
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:24 PM   #1880
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Oh, don't literally add a quart to the car itself, add it in your mind...if that makes sense. From dot to dot, entire length of cross hatches is a quart.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:36 PM   #1881
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Originally Posted by antdrig View Post
Although some people would say to idle the car for a few minutes, drive the car under normal driving conditions until the thermostat is where it should be. Then, check it. If you check it in the morning, cold, and you presumably have no leaks, add a quart to your reading. Hope this was helpful. :0)
Again, I never check my oil hot. There's too much residual oil on the sides of the dip stick tube, so when you pull the stick out, it's very difficult to get an accurate reading. Park the car and wait for the engine to get completely cold. By then, the oil will have settled from the engine (and the dip stick tube) down into the oil pan, making it much easier to get an accurate reading of your oil level.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:24 AM   #1882
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Thanks, but you're sort of preaching to the choir. In the literally hundreds of times and ways I've checked mine, the most variance I've seen in different methods/times of dipstick reading is about 1/8" tops.
I definitely know how to read the pos inaccurate dipstick.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:29 AM   #1883
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And I agree ^^
Checking it cold is most accurate and is easiest.
I'm only at 840 miles on this change and its already down at least a quarter inch from where I filled it, btw
So even with cooler weather and heavier oil, its looking like my consumption is increasing at the 15k mark.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:54 AM   #1884
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For what it's worth, the head tech at Long Subaru told me that the correct way to check your oil level is to do so after the car has been driven and the engine has gotten up to operating temp. Let the the car sit for about 5 to 10 minutes, then check the level.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:57 AM   #1885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr0bb5
For what it's worth, the head tech at Long Subaru told me that the correct way to check your oil level is to do so after the car has been driven and the engine has gotten up to operating temp. Let the the car sit for about 5 to 10 minutes, then check the level.
The manual agrees with this
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:08 AM   #1886
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^^ Manual wins!
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:21 AM   #1887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST Eye
^^ Manual wins!
Transmission too!
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:09 AM   #1888
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Well I'm just sayin that it pretty much reads the same no matter when or how I check it.
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:46 PM   #1889
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Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
The manual agrees with this
Interestingly, the service manual doesn't:
Quote:
As the oil level gauge is used for daily maintenance, F line and L line is set assuming that the engine is cold.
This from the PDFs you can get from techinfo.subaru.com (for a fee, of course).

Honestly, I figure as long as the oil isn't below the L mark (cold or hot), and isn't stupidly high, it's good enough.

Also according to the manual, the distance between L and F represents 1 l or 1.1 US qt, 0.9 imperial qt.

Now, how much you want to trust this is up to you... it does have the steps "Start the engine to circulate the oil..." and "After turning off the engine, wait a few minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan before checking the level" after actually checking the oil.
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:01 PM   #1890
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Originally Posted by FourOhFour View Post
Interestingly, the service manual doesn't:


This from the PDFs you can get from techinfo.subaru.com (for a fee, of course).

Honestly, I figure as long as the oil isn't below the L mark (cold or hot), and isn't stupidly high, it's good enough.

Also according to the manual, the distance between L and F represents 1 l or 1.1 US qt, 0.9 imperial qt.

Now, how much you want to trust this is up to you... it does have the steps "Start the engine to circulate the oil..." and "After turning off the engine, wait a few minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan before checking the level" after actually checking the oil.
but there isn't a whole lot of fluid expansion due to heat so it is pretty accurate hot or cold. i have noticed really no difference if i check after driving or after it sat overnight
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:05 PM   #1891
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The manual is a ****ing joke,
It also says to check your coolant at the gas station when you fill up, but also to "wait for the engine to cool".
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:22 PM   #1892
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79letour, I don't remember if I asked you this, but how did you break in your engine? Was it according to the manual?
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:53 PM   #1893
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Yup. The stupid, stupid manual
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:04 PM   #1894
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I varied my rpm's a lot, and I did rev it to 4500 a few times on break-in. No cruise control. After 1200 miles of this, I changed the oil, and had more "fun" driving. Dipstick. Readings stayed normal. Then a dealer change at 3750 with an overfill was when the problems started.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:15 PM   #1895
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Did all the people on this forum who experience oil consumption have that occur only after a dealer overfill, or are some people experiencing oil consumption even after normal fill levels?
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:21 PM   #1896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Did all the people on this forum who experience oil consumption have that occur only after a dealer overfill, or are some people experiencing oil consumption even after normal fill levels?
I have wondered the same thing.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:01 PM   #1897
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I'm wondering if the boxer design is more sensitive to overfill. And with 0w20 and low ring tension, that overfill could ruin the ringseal more easily.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:04 PM   #1898
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^^ This is what I'm trying to understand. I can't figure out how/why an overfill would harm the ring seal, regardless of whether the engine is a boxer or otherwise.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:24 PM   #1899
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When new, there's a 45 degree cross-hatch pattern honed into the cylinders. When break-in occurs, the rings machine themselves, hopefully evenly, into the cylinder.
The boxer, with its cylinders horrizontally laid opposed, I wonder if over-filling could cause an excess of oil behind the low tension rings, and glazing the cylinder(s) or something could be the result.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:31 PM   #1900
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I know for a fact that due to dealer stupidity, my engine has ran with well over six quarts. I got 6.25 out when I drained the last dealer-fill.
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