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Old 03-26-2012, 06:05 PM   #1
azn0boi04
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87 GL

Default =/ no spark, no fun

HEY hey HEY!... for a few days now ive been trying to figure out why i get no spark. im not too good with wiring, but i followed directions, and "should" have everything hooked up right (obviously not since its not running).

i tried checking that the injectors are getting power, when i crank it, i see the injectors getting .65-.70v. not sure what its actually suppose to be at, but i assume they are working, since its getting some kind of power.

i took off on the the coils and stuck an extra plug that i had in it, and cranked it with no spark. so im pretty sure this is the only thing that is not letting it run. BUt its most important thing to have a running engine..

my set up: related to spark/fuel
ej20g
ngk iridiums
wrx COP conversion (did before and worked perfectly, with previous swap)
walbro- definitely hear it priming.
550cc (also worked in previous swap)

maybe im missing a simple ground.
this is in a 97obs, with a 93 ej20g.

if u need more info on what i have lmk, i know its hard to describe my problem. but ill try my best,
~50$ or more paypal'd or cash(or a set of snowflakes 16s) to the person that give me the info to get it running

kthanksbye
Mead
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:58 PM   #2
eg33GC
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check the cam angle sensor and sensor wiring.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:00 PM   #3
rob
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It tastes like burning

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With the ignition switched to "on", is the CEL on or off?
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:10 PM   #4
azn0boi04
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The cel is on,
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:08 PM   #5
rob
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ok, that is a good sign, the ECU is at least alive. Check if you have any stored codes.

-Rob
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:13 PM   #6
azn0boi04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob View Post
ok, that is a good sign, the ECU is at least alive. Check if you have any stored codes.

-Rob
haha good idea, i forgot about that

but i cam up with
44-Turbocharging Pressure Control Signal
24-Idle Control System Malfunction
ISC Valve (Stick)
Open/Short in ISC Valve Circuit
12
Starter Signal ( i under stand the starter signal because i use a wrench to arc the starter, for some reason the ign switch wont crank it over. not a big deal at the moment since its not completely running.)

I also had a code 24 even before swapping. I changed and clean the iacv, but that code never went away. This time I changed both of the water sensors, and the oil pressure sensor...

Last edited by azn0boi04; 03-26-2012 at 11:47 PM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:45 PM   #7
suberdave
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this week is super busy till thursday. but maybe then i can come over and lend you a hand...

-=Suberdave=-
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:47 AM   #8
azn0boi04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suberdave View Post
this week is super busy till thursday. but maybe then i can come over and lend you a hand...

-=Suberdave=-

superhelp. accepted.
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:36 AM   #9
Jessekrs123
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The only few reasons that an OBDI Subaru will throw a code are due to the following:

- The sensor itself is unplugged.
- The sensor is not receiving proper voltage.
- The sensor is not properly grounded.
(The previous two indicate a short or something wrong within the harness)
- The sensor is shot to the point where it cannot communicate with the ECU.

There are no inefficiency codes in OBDI (except for running lean, which I have never seen that code happen even with massive vacuum leaks) like there is with OBDII. Basically, if you are getting a CEL, then chances are there is something wrong with your wiring, or the sensor itself is dead.

Make sure your ECU ground is properly snug. I'm not sure where it is located on an early JDM turbo engine, but it should be bolted somewhere at the rear of the engine, either on a valve cover or the backside of the intake manifold. A loose ECU ground will cause a loss of spark and give you the code 24. Not that I know from experience or anything...

Best of luck to you sir, because chasing electrical gremlins is a huge PITA.

Last edited by Jessekrs123; 03-27-2012 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:02 PM   #10
rob
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There are also cases where some ECUs will flag if a sensor is "out of range" under specific conditions.

Mead, start with verifying all ground and power signals (steps 2 and 3 below). Even though your ECU being alive suggests this is ok, it is a good first basic step.



Next as Jacob mentioned I would verify that the cam/crank sensors. Double check that they are both full plugged in and the wires are not cracked at the plugs. Next I would check continuity between the sensor plugs all the way back to the ECU connector.

-Rob
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:08 PM   #11
azn0boi04
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According to my dinky multimeter the ecu has proper power and ground.. Now checkin the sensors.
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:29 PM   #12
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Make sure you are getting 12 volts at the coil. I don't have a pinout handy, but one of the pins should be 12v+. If you don't have 12v, figure out why. If you do, it means the ECU is either not commanding the coil to charge on purpose (disconnected sensor or something), or the command is not reaching the coil.
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:34 PM   #13
azn0boi04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon117
Make sure you are getting 12 volts at the coil. I don't have a pinout handy, but one of the pins should be 12v+. If you don't have 12v, figure out why. If you do, it means the ECU is either not commanding the coil to charge on purpose (disconnected sensor or something), or the command is not reaching the coil.
The coils worked properly in previous swap, but always good to double check.

update: checked the coils and getting proper voltage

Last edited by azn0boi04; 03-28-2012 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:55 PM   #14
azn0boi04
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O shoot, looks like I have a draw of power somewhere. Now I only have 1.5v... Yesterday it had ~9v...

On a group 51 optima yellow... Honda size.

Dumb update...
Dang it,... I left the key in it all night... Lol

Last edited by azn0boi04; 03-29-2012 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:43 PM   #15
Bacon117
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9v? While cranking, or while just sitting there? That could be your problem right there. You might have enough in the battery to crank, but it doesn't have enough to charge the coils while cranking.

You should have 12v when the battery is sitting there. Charge it up, and try to start again.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:12 PM   #16
azn0boi04
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well its a good battery...it still didnt start when the battery was fully charged new... im going to take it to work and charge it..

is there a recommend way to charge these gell batteries.. probably not on a big charger, should it be on a trickle charge?
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:22 PM   #17
Subbiespeed
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i dunno i just take my red top to advance and let them charge it seems to be working fine someone correct me if im wrong or just have badass that hook me up
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:38 PM   #18
azn0boi04
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yeah, ill just put it on the trickle charger over night or something.
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:36 AM   #19
Bacon117
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You always want to make sure your battery is fully charged when doing this kind of work. I spent half a day the other day trying to diagnose why one of the engines on our dyno wouldn't make any torque. Turns out, the battery was low, b/c someone disconnected the charger. That reminds me, double check that you have ruled out ALL the super simple stuff. Is the coil plugged in, fuses are good, etc. I believe you said you did it already, but I say do it again.
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:37 PM   #20
azn0boi04
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Yeah everything checks out. Battery is fully charged now.

Starter works from the key now, instead of a wrench. Connected wires that I was suppose to leave unconnected..
Still no spark.
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:16 AM   #21
steveomiami
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Is the igniter wiring all hooked up by the boost control solenoid?
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:26 AM   #22
azn0boi04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveomiami
Is the igniter wiring all hooked up by the boost control solenoid?
Yeah I did the coil conversion and I solders those wires together. Still great connections.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:17 PM   #23
azn0boi04
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ah yeah. finally got it running. thanks to suberdave!

he got a set of wheels off of me.

well give u guys an update when everything is spik and span
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:49 PM   #24
AspirinWhite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azn0boi04
ah yeah. finally got it running. thanks to suberdave!

he got a set of wheels off of me.

well give u guys an update when everything is spik and span
What was the issue? Im having a similar issue with my v5 ej207
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