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Old 06-12-2012, 02:52 AM   #1
Coreycarlile911
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Default Obp sti waxing tips

I know ill prob get hated on for not search a ton but I was just looking for some good tips on making my obsidian black pearl looking as good as possibe. Ive been waxing myself with just some meguires cleaner wax followed by a coat of the nsx and it looks great but Im thinking it could look better. Some of the puddled water and water marks just will not come out and there is some spots on my roof that are tiny little white dots that really wont come out. But if anyone could recommend some products and procedures that would be awesome. I also have a cheap turtle wax orbit buffer cuz I dont wanna spend the money on the professional one.
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:58 AM   #2
KevinniveK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreycarlile911 View Post
I also have a cheap turtle wax orbit buffer cuz I dont wanna spend the money on the professional one.
If you have the right technique down, I don't think this should affect your results by that much. A lot of people don't have professional equipment and still obtain great results.
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:42 AM   #3
Coreycarlile911
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Ya it still looks good but i am no professional detailer so just looking for some tips from the pros to get it looking as good as possible.
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:52 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinniveK View Post
If you have the right technique down, I don't think this should affect your results by that much. A lot of people don't have professional equipment and still obtain great results.

True. Nut if he doesn't have the right technique, he may end up damaging his paint more.

risky, ain't it?
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:28 AM   #5
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before you do the polish use the rubbing compound. also use a DA dont do it by hand.
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:51 AM   #6
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^^Did you just say rubbing compound?


Good lord.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:21 PM   #7
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use a non-abrasive compound! unless you have experience. use this:
WASH-CLAY BAR-WASH-WAX-POLISH
wash with a good soap,get a white clay bar usually found as a kit from mequires,wax with some some light compound,then seal your paint with some good polishing compound.
That will get your paint looking very good. The reason why you should use a light duty compound wax is because the clay bar will cause some micro scratches on top of the clear coat and this will eliminate the scratches. but make sure after this to seal it up with some polishing compound!

-eurotek
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:13 PM   #8
Coreycarlile911
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Ok ill try the clay bar out ive heard good things bout um. The main thing in trying to get out is the swirl marks and webing. Im gonna try the clay bar next wash and see how that turns out.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:20 PM   #9
KevinniveK
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Originally Posted by Coreycarlile911 View Post
Ok ill try the clay bar out ive heard good things bout um. The main thing in trying to get out is the swirl marks and webing. Im gonna try the clay bar next wash and see how that turns out.
A claybar's job is to remove surface contaminants that have bonded to your paint. I suggest using one before you polish and/or wax.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eurotek View Post
use a non-abrasive compound! unless you have experience. use this:
WASH-CLAY BAR-WASH-WAX-POLISH
wash with a good soap,get a white clay bar usually found as a kit from mequires,wax with some some light compound,then seal your paint with some good polishing compound.
-eurotek
Not to be a dick (I hope I detect sarcasm in your post)

you should definitely NOT be waxing before you polish. The correct process would be wash-clay-wash-(compound optional depending on paint condition)-polish-wax. Also, polishing compound does NOT seal your paint... That's what the waxing step is for.

It is very difficult to remove defects without a good DA machine but it is possible using a good pad / compound and or polish combo and an ass load of elbow grease. There is a ton of info in this section on how to do this correctly if you are willing to read a little bit. Good luck!
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:35 PM   #11
Coreycarlile911
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Ya ive always washed the car then did coat of cleaner wax followed up with a carbanana wax but neither gets the water spots, swirl marks or the small section of white dots on my roof. Like I said ive searched and have a general idea of the waxing procedures. But just looking for the beat all around procedure to get the car looking as good as possible expecially with it being black cuz ive heard black can be little different than other colors.
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:52 PM   #12
abehanna
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I've got the black too... Can be a PITA. I ended up purchasing a DA / good pads and doing a full wash-clay-compound-polish-and wax... I used Megs clay, Megs 105 compound, 205 polish, and gold class wax. Turned out like glass but it took about 15 hours to do the whole thing and i spent about $200 between the DA pads and products... I thought it was a good investment since it turned out as good as many of the details i have seen posted (I'm sure it costs $300 at the very least for a good detail with paint correction) and i can use everything again...

If you don't get a DA i'm not sure it would even be humanly possible to take out all the scratches / swirls... Ive tried before by hand and got tired quickly even working on a single scratch let alone an entire car...

If your paint is in good condition you should be able to wash-clay-polish-wax which saves a bunch of time over the compound process but there really isn't any way to physically remove defects without a semi-aggressive compound...
I also think people overreact about how beginners should never use compound... Its really not bad if you use a pad that's not super aggressive and with the way the DAs work there is no chance of burning through the clear coat (this could be easily accomplished with a rotary if you're not careful)

Last edited by abehanna; 06-12-2012 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:00 AM   #13
Coreycarlile911
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Ya ive been detailing my cars for bout ten years now but just with basic stuff I wanna get into learning to use quality products that help with scratches and such.also my car has nearly 100 k and I rally it from time to time so the paint is no where near perfect but if I can fix up as much as I can to get it looking as good as possible id be happy. Ill post some pics up here soon and see how ya think I should go about it and what the car looks like now with the basic wash and waxing job I do now. Thanks for the help tho very appreciated.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:38 AM   #14
Omega_2nr
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abehanna has the best advice in this thread - period.


Eurotek, you should never wax then polish. It's the other way around. Also, what is this "mequires" brand you speak of?

I've never heard of "mequires".

Any relation to Meguiars by chance?
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:17 AM   #15
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Im sure that he meant Meguiars...

Compound may not be necessary, do a test spot first so you can get a good idea of what needs to be done. I get away with mild polish on a white pad in most cases. Remember Subaru paint is fairly soft which makes it easier to correct...but also easier to damage.

Also, the magnitude of correction required is in direct correlation with how well you maintain the vehicle between corrections. For example, the use of quality wash media and high lubricity soaps. Quality drying towels and compressed air, also performing a flood rinse prior to drying (helps a lot). Quality microfiber towels are also a big plus. Anything you can do to prevent marring and swirling of you paint will benefit you when it comes time for your annual correction or however often you decide.

Check the stickies, Kean has spent (a sizeable amount im sure) his personal time compiling a list of articles and websites that will provide you with a plethora of information. Also google will help you understand some phrases I wrote that you don't understand and YouTube is a good source for visual aid. However, some YouTube demonstrations are garbage and show terrible technique. Anything by Mike Phillips is money.

Last edited by AspenScoob255; 06-13-2012 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AspenScoob255
Check the stickies, Kean has spent (a sizeable amount im sure) his personal time compiling a list of articles and websites that will provide you with a plethora of information.
Fyi.... The thread you're thinking about that I posted a couple of years back never got "stickied". However, the OP should be able to find it via a search on here using the keywords "Detailing Library". ....a Google search using that title and my name should also bring it up. Some of the links might be dead but most of them will still work.
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:15 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Omega_2nr View Post
Also, what is this "mequires" brand you speak of?

I've never heard of "mequires".

Any relation to Meguiars by chance?
you're a douche.

that is all.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:29 AM   #18
Omega_2nr
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^^w00t! I got my first "you're a douche" comment on NASIOC!


It's about time too.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:42 PM   #19
eurotek
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Yes...i made an error.very very sorry:0 lol please.u know what i meant fool!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega_2nr
abehanna has the best advice in this thread - period.

Eurotek, you should never wax then polish. It's the other way around. Also, what is this "mequires" brand you speak of?

I've never heard of "mequires".

Any relation to Meguiars by chance?
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:45 PM   #20
eurotek
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Omega..youre not funny btw..good try though.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:07 PM   #21
snowskis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
Fyi.... The thread you're thinking about that I posted a couple of years back never got "stickied". However, the OP should be able to find it via a search on here using the keywords "Detailing Library". ....a Google search using that title and my name should also bring it up. Some of the links might be dead but most of them will still work.
I've got it bookmarked:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1877117

As others have noted wash, clay, wash, compound (if needed), finishing polish, sealant/wax. As AspenScoob noted above- perform a test area 2' x 2' to see what works best by taking the least amount off. I've found on my WRB, Meguiar's M205 with Detailer Domain's green pad works well enough for most of the swirls. It certainly doesn't get the deeper scratches out, but those are so few and small, I don't care about them. My car stayed fairly swirl free this past winter even with all the crap that stuck on. I know I'm not dealing with a black car, it's just my experience. Find what works best for you.

Last edited by snowskis; 06-17-2012 at 12:53 AM.
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Old 06-17-2012, 03:58 PM   #22
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http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-porter-cable-ceramic-show-car-kit.html
Thats a good place to start if your looking at DIY. This kit has just about everything you'll need for minor to moderate paint correction. The porter cable is a DA polisher and with the pads provided in the kit its very hard to burn paint even if your a novice. Definitely get some practice and start with the lightest polish until your more confident.
I'd highly recommend checking out some of the forum on autogeek.net as well. There is some very useful info there and great videos for demonstrations.

Oh and my personal favorite sealant and wax combo for black cars is Wolfgang Sealant 3.0 followed by Pinnacle Signature Wax.
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:41 PM   #23
Omega_2nr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eurotek View Post
Omega..youre not funny btw..good try though.

Wasn't trying to be funny, urowteck.

You know what is also not funny? Giving people bad detailing advice, as you did in this thread, here:

Quote:
use this:
WASH-CLAY BAR-WASH-WAX-POLISH

Now that we've educated you, bask in the glory of your newfound knowledge, and move forward in peace.
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:09 PM   #24
187mustang
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I'll confirm what's been posted. I've used a DA polisher with meguiars 105 over heavier scratches and 205 over the whole car and it looked amazing. I use dodo juice supernatural hybrid wax and its awsome. I'd skip meguiars wax for the money u can get waxes that are better and last longer. As for water spots if us use a pad that will do minor correction with chemical guys black light u can buff out water spots and seal the paint at the same time
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:42 PM   #25
BlackJavaPearl04
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Plenty of advice in here. I agree to achieve the results you want youll need to use a machine and some decent polish (after claybar/ washing) this will take out the water spots and swirl marks...I like to use Menzerna SI1500 and SF4000 polishes. Waxing is only to preserve/ seal the paint.
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