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Old 12-03-2012, 01:08 PM   #76
wumfpirate
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^^ maybe

If you used a round metal washer w/o locking tabs you *might* be able to insert a screwdriver into the bulb hole to rotate it
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:18 PM   #77
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Based on the pictures he posted it looks like the big nut is fairly accessible... Hopefully removing the headlight from the car will be enough to be able to tweak it. Just don't unscrew it too much and drop the whole projector inside hahaha
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:08 PM   #78
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^ I'll try that, hopefully my shrouds don't move around too much or I'd have to bake them open again lol
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:41 AM   #79
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I'm able to loosen the nut on the back just slightly enough to get the rotational alignment. The trick is holding it in place while you tighten it back down. I haven't had too much of an issue with this, but I do appreciate having the option to tweak the rotation without taking the headlights apart everytime.

Once they are set and the locknut is tight, they don't rotate on their own.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:43 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenament View Post
sick write-up. Props to the OP! Going to do these soon.

Does using epoxy when seating the projector shrouds give any hazing seen when commonly using the same material to mate the outer lens surfaces back together?
Thanks, good luck with your retro.

I can't comment on the epoxy because I used the TRS shroud-centric rings and didn't need to glue em down. Look into them if you don't want to permanently stick your shrouds to the projectors.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:26 AM   #81
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Just ordered a set. unfortunately, I ordered 3000k bulbs instead of 5000k. I sent them a message, hopefully they get it before they put my order in the mail. I can't wait to do these. Thanks for the writeup
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:37 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tersplat View Post
Just ordered a set. unfortunately, I ordered 3000k bulbs instead of 5000k. I sent them a message, hopefully they get it before they put my order in the mail. I can't wait to do these. Thanks for the writeup
On the harness, if the re pinning that the OP posted doesn't work, just check all 6 repinning combinations. Just keep a list like this (post #6):
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...p-example-pics



If you end up with a setting where only the low beam works, or the low beam is activated only when the oem light stalk is on high, keep trying the other combinations. Also, some of the older TRS harness might not work because they have a diode in one of the input wires that doesn't work with our switched ground system.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:00 PM   #83
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good to know, thanks. If I do get the 3000k's are they going to be ok for visibility, or should I go ahead and buy a set of 5000k's?
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:29 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tersplat View Post
good to know, thanks. If I do get the 3000k's are they going to be ok for visibility, or should I go ahead and buy a set of 5000k's?
Depends on what visibility you're talking about.
Visibility of your vehicle from other driver's pov, visibility of the surface of the road from your pov (snow covered road, wet road, dry road), or visibility of objects on the road (cars, obstacles, shoulder)?

Other than the 2nd one, imho, the warmer the color, the better (to a point). But 3000 Kelvin is too yellow to be legally used as low beams in north america (halogen low beams are approximately 3700; most oem HIDs are 4300). For visibility of a snow covered road, which tends to provide a false sense of security imho, a cooler color is better, at the expense of poorer visibility in the 1st & 3rd condition. If you want a blue looking color when viewed by others, I'd rather tune the cutoff shield to maximize the purple band, and stick with 4300K. So, from your pov, you get the maximum lumens in the right place and still have the nice blue impression.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:16 AM   #85
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I don't really care about how it looks to others, but the biggest things for me are: 1 Not blinding oncoming traffic. I drive a lot on back country roads so visibility further out, mostly of wildlife and such is the most important as I have the foglights for close up in street light settings. I have projectors on my Starlet, and the close up lighting is terrible, and annoying in dim, city light conditions where it is nice to have closer lighting if that makes any sense. I guess I'll have to see how it looks when I get them and make a decision based on my personal preference. I appreciate the help.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:18 AM   #86
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^^4300k for the projectors for legality/vision and if you have fogs do 3000k for up close visibility IMO
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:29 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tersplat View Post
I don't really care about how it looks to others, but the biggest things for me are: 1 Not blinding oncoming traffic. I drive a lot on back country roads so visibility further out, mostly of wildlife and such is the most important as I have the foglights for close up in street light settings. I have projectors on my Starlet, and the close up lighting is terrible, and annoying in dim, city light conditions where it is nice to have closer lighting if that makes any sense. I guess I'll have to see how it looks when I get them and make a decision based on my personal preference. I appreciate the help.
Having tried biX with and without foreground lighting, imho, it is best to leave foreground lighting separate from biX. It doesn't make much difference in most situations where other vehicles and street/highway lighting illuminates the majority of your view, but in long stretches of highways, foreground lighting (like having a fog light on) while low beams are on makes the distance lighting seem weaker. Since you already have a foglight that can cover the foreground lighting, you may want to make sure the biX doesn't light up the nearby road too much (right image instead of left image).
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:20 PM   #88
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nice write up.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:31 PM   #89
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Satrya, thanks for the suggestion, and the picture, both are greatly appreciated!
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:52 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tersplat View Post
Satrya, thanks for the suggestion, and the picture, both are greatly appreciated!
You're welcome. The foreground limiter follows the same argument that another member made (frederik?) about not setting up the gauge cluster's light too bright. HIDs without foreground limiter definitely looks more impressive when viewed from the outside, but it is rather deceptive.
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:23 PM   #91
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just finished my retrofit (i'll take REAL pictures soon but here they are so far).

My questoin is, how did you hook up the high beam? I have the low beam all figured out, comes on like it's supposed to, but the red wire on each wiring harness isn't hooked up at all. There is a red/black coming out of the projector to hookup the shield that drops down (aka high beam) but I have no idea how to hook it up.

The lowbeam is supposed to stay on when you hit the high beam, just that piece drops down so you get a higher range (bi-xenon). How would I wire this up? The harness is completely cut up and soldered, no plugs, so any help would be great!!





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Old 01-13-2013, 06:33 PM   #92
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^
Where did you get the harness from? Did you build it yourself? If it is from TRS, when did you get it? Certain generations of the 9004/9007 harness didn't play nice with the GD's switched ground 9007. The others need repinning. See post #6 here:
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...p-example-pics

I wouldn't necessarily follow the exact same colored wires I've posted there; I have 2 different TRS harness generations (I've tried 3, 1 of them didn't work out), and they all have different final wiring colors.

Note that out of 6 possible combinations, more than one gives you a working low beam, but only one gives you both low and high beam working correctly. You may not have wired it to that one yet.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:22 PM   #93
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I didn't use any harnesses, I hard wired the red/black off the HID bulb to the oem harness. I'm using an H1 bulb (for my projectors) so there is no 'high beam', just the flip down switch that the projector uses (which is a red/black harness)

I guess if i took some pictures it would help, even though it's all put back together
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:51 PM   #94
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So the projectors are Mini H1 (or similar), and the ballasts are connected directly to the oem left & right headlight low/high beam connectors, with 2 of the 3 pins on each of them going to the ballast? The ballast might not be too happy in the long run.

A harness is well worth the investment imho.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:58 AM   #95
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the ballast comes with 2 connector, the clip on style and the style that's supposed to go into the OEM harness. Since the h1 bulb is a non-high beam it only has a 2 outputs.

the bulb connects to the harness from this plug :



and the ballast connects to the factory wiring from this plug




here is the wiring diagram :


I have these red/black hooked up to the LW/YR on the passenger side and the RL/YR on the drivers side. I have no harness anymore, they were cut off, so they are currently soldered.

The red wire on both sides from the factory harness aren't connected to anything currently. I'm not sure where this TRS harness come into play, but if you only have two plugs coming out of the ballast, where would those go? and where would the bixenon high beam connector go? It looks like the connector on the left hand side :



does the "harness" provide a relay or just a plug'n'play application (because I"m already past that) . Any help or direction you can provide would be awesome. thanks again!!
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:47 AM   #96
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I'm having a hard time orienting where those connectors and wires are in the pictures (not the subaru wiring diagram). Here's how one would connect a TRS harness to the ballast and solenoid connectors:


Here are 2 examples of pre motocontrol branded TRS harnesses and where they connect to; it may be a good idea to get one.

The harness shares the common positive originally going to the left and right oem low/high bulbs, along with the switched low and switched high pins to power the ballast while the oem stalk is at the low beam position, and powers both the solenoid and the ballast while the oem stalk is at the high beam position.

So yes, it has the proper relay and fuse in addition to the wiring.

The newer harness (moto control) eliminates the older connector to ground, and instead grounds the ground connector from the ballast to 2 new chassis ground connectors. Either way, the working principle is the same. I'm using both pre and post motocontrol harnesses from them.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:12 PM   #97
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where is this harness purchased from? i'm assuming your low beams work all the time, and the high beam flap goes when you flip the high's? Is the "solenoid" what you are referring to as the high beam piece inside the projector?
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:24 PM   #98
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^ theretrofitsource.com has the harness you need.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:26 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfx View Post
just finished my retrofit (i'll take REAL pictures soon but here they are so far).






Finally get to see a retrofit with "koji modded" black lights leaving the reflector chrome. I personally like the way these came out.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:05 PM   #100
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thanks. i'll be taking more pictures when it's not 3 degrees outside. I'm a photographer so should have some good ones.

flickr.com/btmlinedan
www.dkfxphotography.com
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