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Old 01-14-2013, 03:07 PM   #101
dkfx
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^Thanks! I don't know what happened but the lens got a little yellow after the baking. I tried to polish the front out after it was put back together but definitely not as clear as it was before. Anyone expereince this or have any ideas? Is it on the inside or just in my head? There are also small stress cracks in the lens that i'm not sure if they will polish out.

You can see how clean it looks currently, and then the 'cloudy' / yellowish lens to the right. any suggestions on that?

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Old 01-14-2013, 03:41 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfx View Post
You can see how clean it looks currently, and then the 'cloudy' / yellowish lens to the right. any suggestions on that?
Get a pair of replica headlights, bake in the oven or use a heat gun, and transplant the nice clear front lens onto your retrofit. Sell the replica housing with the cloudy oem lens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhamilySedan View Post
^ theretrofitsource.com has the harness you need.
Yes. Specifically:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...ducts_id=14032

Those "9004/9007" are usually wired for switched positive 9004. This means for the bugeye's switched ground 9007, you need to re pin the input to the harness. See post #6 here for details:
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...p-example-pics
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:28 PM   #103
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since I'd have to hack the harness, can you let me know what goes where? Just seems silly to buy a harness, only to hack it up and build my own.

that IS a good idea about buying a replica housing, but i'm wondering if baking it made it cloudy?
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:32 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfx View Post
since I'd have to hack the harness, can you let me know what goes where? Just seems silly to buy a harness, only to hack it up and build my own.

that IS a good idea about buying a replica housing, but i'm wondering if baking it made it cloudy?
I wouldn't know how the wiring works; plus the fact that the oem low/high bulb connector powers up somewhat strange combinations when I tested it:

See how in low beam mode, both left and center pins measure positive with respect to the right one, and in high beam mode, only the center pin measure positive w.r.t. the left one. Sorting this out using a home made wiring might be quite tricky. The TRS harness still needs to be re-pinned, but that's it.

The complication of making your own is that you may need two separate circuits with a diode as inputs to the ballast, one from the oem low beam output, another from the high beam output. Otherwise, your ballast is powered in low beam mode, and then only your solenoids are powered in high beam (but no light of course). Better buy a harness and let the controller take care of it imho.

But if you insist, here is a thread on wiring harnesses:
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...s-amp-Examples
Note that the first mention of 9004/9007 is for a positive switched, not positive ground. So in the end, buying the harness is better unless you want to do the basic legwork.

Another option is to pay retrofitters to make the custom harness for you starting from the already cut-out wiring that you have.

Baking should not make it cloudy. Hazy/cloudy lens is typically caused by uv exposure outdoors. When retrofitting headlights, haze could form inside when using many types of silicone based sealant. As long as you go with butyl sealant (or know which silicone sealant doesn't outgass as much), you should be ok.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:34 PM   #105
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thanks for that ^^ I'll have to set some time to mess with the wiring. I just don't want to be blindly guessing and blow the bulb if I connect the wrong thing up, ya know?

PS ; here are the pictures I promised.


DK5D4235 copy by btmlinedan, on Flickr


DK5D4238 copy by btmlinedan, on Flickr


DK5D4262 copy by btmlinedan, on Flickr


DK5D4267 copy by btmlinedan, on Flickr
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:41 PM   #106
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The way I took care of my cloudy lenses was by using the Meguiar's lens restoration kit. It's only about $30 or so and doesn't take too long to do if you have a drill. My lenses look almost brand new now
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:35 PM   #107
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They look pretty good in these pictures, but under regular daylight, they are a bit yellow. who knows! i've already used all my plastix product stuff and still not 100% ohwell. function>form.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:20 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfx View Post
thanks for that ^^ I'll have to set some time to mess with the wiring. I just don't want to be blindly guessing and blow the bulb if I connect the wrong thing up, ya know?
When you buy TRS' harness and need to figure out which 1 of the 6 possible input combinations (coming in from the oem low/high bulb connector to the harness), you don't need to connect the ballast. Just check to make sure that the TRS harness outputs for the solenoid and ballast provide voltage when the oem stalk is in the right place.

That is:
OEM stalk off or parking light --> no voltage on solenoid & ballast harness outputs
OEM stalk on low --> voltage only on ballast harness outputs
OEM stalk on flash-to-pass or high --> voltage on all ballast harness outputs

You wouldn't be shorting anything iirc. I had to try this on 3 TRS harnesses (with 1 of the older ones being incompatible and replaced by another newer one). At least, with the newest motocontrol harness, I don't recall seeing any fuses blown. And I tried all 6 combinations (just to be thorough) even though I found one that works before that. Seems risk free.
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:46 AM   #109
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I got mine all hooked up and aimed with the 3000k bulbs, and I'm ordering the 4200k's but in the mean time, I need to figure out a problem I'm having. When I turn on my brights, They will not go off until I turn the stalk off and back on, then they will go back to regular. Also, They flicker a little bit when they are warming up, Is this normal for these?
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:22 AM   #110
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No, flickerin is not normal. Did you use a wiring harness? Flickering is usually when the ballasts do not get enough current (ballasts draw a lot of current at startup). I would not run hids without harness.

If you do have a harness, make sure you didnt drain your battery while installing/aiming/playing around (does it still do it after you ran for a while so the alternator can recharge the battery). Then check your connections, a bad connection will add resistance and limit the current going through.

Regarding the high beams sticking, do they unstick when you turn off the fog light switch?
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:43 AM   #111
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Not supplying the ballast with a stable power source (e.g. via poor wiring) could be made worse if the ballast is analog. Analog ballasts may not generate a clean enough waveform that can drive the HID bulbs in a stable manner.

Check for your connector pins & grounding terminals for intermittent connection. Some connector pins might have enough play from wear & tear.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:45 PM   #112
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The flickering problem is gone. I did kill my battery when I was aiming them. and I havent checked the foglight switch yet, I'll go do that now.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:34 AM   #113
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Headlights work exactly as designed when foglights are off, but the high beams stick as long as the fogs are on. What could cause this?
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:23 PM   #114
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Bump for answers, my high beams stick as long as the fogs are on too
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:25 AM   #115
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(1) Do the independent foglight mod
(2) If it still sticks, experiment with the other 5 input harness repinning combination. More than one combination allows the low beam to work, but only one gives you proper low & high beam operation. (This is assuming you use TRS' motocontrol branded harness)
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:24 PM   #116
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I'll be doing the foglight mod at some point. I'm done working on her for the next few months, other than replacing the 3600K's.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:58 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satrya View Post
(1) Do the independent foglight mod
(2) If it still sticks, experiment with the other 5 input harness repinning combination. More than one combination allows the low beam to work, but only one gives you proper low & high beam operation. (This is assuming you use TRS' motocontrol branded harness)
I'm using the TRS harness, and I have the pins arranged like in the picture posted earlier in this thread (the only combination that allowed my high beams or fogs to function at all) but it's still sticking. I guess I'll look into the foglight mod then
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:16 AM   #118
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Here is a question for you guys who have done the retro....Do you even see your foglights? I have a feeling that the HID will cancel out any light thrown out by the fogs. I was thinking of just getting foglight covers and selling my fogs if they dont put out any light
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:14 AM   #119
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^
Proper foglights serve a different purpose from low or high beams. A good HID low beam will allow better distance lighting and at the same time sustain light intensity at a wider angle than halogen low beams. But when visibility is very poor due to rain or fog, the higher intensity of a HID low beam is not necessarily better than halogen low beams. Even halogen reflector low beams light up dense fog.

A good foglight illuminates nearby ground so you can see the edges of the road. The reflector fogs that came with the bugeye has a surprisingly good beam pattern. It produces a narrow horizontal band of light. The problem is that if not aimed properly, yes, it will be drowned by low beams, especially low beams that have a lot of foreground lighting.

Foglights are not for everyday use.
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:27 AM   #120
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Satrya, I get all you are saying, that esentially that foglights are for "foggy" conditions, but thats not what I'm asking.

DIY retrofit HID's were never meant to be used in conjunction with the stock fogs, so are the aftermarket lights "drowning out" the stock fog lights?

I understand the principles, I am looking for opinions from people who have done the retrofit and notice the difference, esp in foggy conditions.

Have you done this retro or are you just trying to educate me on the purpose of stock halogens/low beams/fogs?
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Old 02-02-2013, 03:57 AM   #121
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I did this retrofit about two months ago (my pics should be a few pages back in this thread) and I agree with Satrya. This Morimoto kit purposely lacks foreground illumination to allow you to see better. It seems counterintuitive, but I do notice less eye strain after driving for long periods at night.

To answer your question, I actually notice my foglights more after doing the retrofit. That may be partially because my low beams are 5000K and my fogs are yellow, but they definitely add a warmer hue to the light on the road. I tend to use them whenever I need to see things very close to the front of my car, like driving on a road with a lot of potholes for example
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:15 AM   #122
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^
Agree.
I didn't do exactly the same retrofit. I have a quad setup (with a 3 way switch so I primarily use each pair for different purposes). The main pair are e55 replicas (EvoX-R) with a custom foreground limiter. The secondary pair are Mini D2S v2.0. Unlike the latest Mini H1 (v5.0), they don't come with foreground limiters.
When driving in the snow recently, there was a point where using the fogs did help with illuminating the sides without your eyes seeing too much brightness right in front of the road.

The Mini D2S worked fine for twisty roads (needing a good side illumination but not fast enough to need much distance lighting), and in that case, it drowns the oem foglights, or even Hella Micro DEs for that matter.

My last sentence in my previous post qualifies my answer. If you will see inclement weather, a good foglight helps. Otherwise, HID retrofit will seemingly render them redundant. Especially if the HID has a lot of foreground lighting. (I'm assuming the second condition, that HID has wide coverage, is true for all proper retrofit)
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:01 PM   #123
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Ok, I'm definitely doing this mod soon. I'm fairly new here and this might look like a dumb question to you guys who seem very professional, but I went on theretrofitsource.com and chose the morimoto mini h1's and there is a list of different harnesses. Which harness has the least amount of issues. The only one on the list I've heard mentioned is the 9004/9007. I don't know if this is the best though. What should I order?
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:32 PM   #124
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You would use the harness that is your original bulb type, say you have a 9004 bulb that will be replaced by an hid projector then you want a 9004 harness that gets power from the battery to the ballasts and uses your stock 9004 socket for the signal to send power from the harness to the ballasts.
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:27 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alt14 View Post
You would use the harness that is your original bulb type, say you have a 9004 bulb that will be replaced by an hid projector then you want a 9004 harness that gets power from the battery to the ballasts and uses your stock 9004 socket for the signal to send power from the harness to the ballasts.
Ok, for some reason when I saw it I thought it was some sort of 9007 to 9004 conversion harness. Now I see that it just simply works for both 9007 and 9004. Thanks.
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