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Old 05-14-2013, 08:21 PM   #126
flyboy1100
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Just mailed a sample today of amsoil oe @ 6859 miles
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:07 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
Just mailed a sample today of amsoil oe @ 6859 miles
Thanks for doing that. And what kind of oil did you put into the car?

My next oil change will be with the Pennzoil Platinum and a black Subaru/Roki filter. This will be my first non-Amsoil OE oil change.
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:10 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post

Thanks for doing that. And what kind of oil did you put into the car?

My next oil change will be with the Pennzoil Platinum and a black Subaru/Roki filter. This will be my first non-Amsoil OE oil change.
More OE, I have enough on the shelf for 1 more change, then I will be going back to signature
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:35 PM   #129
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as promised, oil looks like it should go 7500 no problem will be switching to Signature though as stated above after my next change (1 more with OE)

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Old 05-21-2013, 09:55 PM   #130
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Looks great. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:44 PM   #131
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11,083 miles on engine 3,551 on oil OEM Subaru 0w-20 uoa with OEM black Subaru oil filter.

This time I used 0w-20 OEM Toyota sythetic with OEM black Subaru oil filter.

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Old 07-25-2013, 05:18 PM   #132
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Ok here is my most recent UOA:

Sample Taken 5-25-2013. 5K miles on Dealer supplied Subaru 0w-20 oil and Black filter. 12.5K miles on the car. Oil was not changed at this time.

The next report will be interesting b/c since this report. I just had the oil changed the oil above changed at 6K. This time there is the Blue Subaru Filter.

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Old 07-26-2013, 07:54 AM   #133
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Interesting that both above cars seem to be taking a bit of time to get rid of the residual silicon from break-in. Break-in metals do look good though.

Jay, you might want to email Blackstone and ask them about that Flashpoint. It should be around 400. Thank you both for getting a TBN. It would be intersting to see the TBN with 7,500 miles on it, but that might be pushing the OCI a bit far.

-Dennis
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:48 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
Interesting that both above cars seem to be taking a bit of time to get rid of the residual silicon from break-in. Break-in metals do look good though.

Jay, you might want to email Blackstone and ask them about that Flashpoint. It should be around 400. Thank you both for getting a TBN. It would be intersting to see the TBN with 7,500 miles on it, but that might be pushing the OCI a bit far.

-Dennis
my car what had high silicon until around 20k miles
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Old 07-26-2013, 10:56 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
my car what had high silicon until around 20k miles
Good to know. Seems like such a long time since my STI is down to 6 in under 14k miles.
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:04 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay25RS View Post

Good to know. Seems like such a long time since my STI is down to 6 in under 14k miles.
I just looked 40 @ 14k, 30@ 20.7k
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:04 PM   #137
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Just saw a BRZ uoa on this oil at ft86club with silicon still at 25 with 36k miles on the car. This seems odd since Si doesn't appear to be an oil additive (unless it has been reformulated):

Here's a VoA
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2843880

Are you guys running the OEM air filter? Somebody do a new virgin analysis!

-Dennis
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:00 PM   #138
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-Mobil1 0w20
-Purolator PureOne PL14459
-Amsoil EaBP90 bypass filter

Blackstone's comments:

Quote:
Thanks for the note about the new bypass filter. Generally, we find bypass filters can really help keep the oil clean, not only by adding an extra layer of filtration, but also by increasing the sump size, thereby lowering the overall concentration of wear metals and insolubles. It seems to be doing a great job here, as all your metals and the insolubles have dropped, even though this oil run wasn't significantly shorter than before. You noted the use of RTV sealer, so we expected to find some extra silicon in this report, but that wasn't the case. No problems to report here!
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Old 12-30-2013, 06:06 PM   #139
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Why are you running such short intervals with a bypass set-up?

-Dennis
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:06 PM   #140
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Just erring on the side of caution. I didn't know how the bypass would perform in this car.

Sump capacity is about 6.4 quarts now, so that alone should give me a few thousand miles extra.
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Old 12-31-2013, 07:59 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
Just erring on the side of caution. I didn't know how the bypass would perform in this car.

Sump capacity is about 6.4 quarts now, so that alone should give me a few thousand miles extra.
12-15k total miles wouldn't surprise me. Just get a TBN and take samples without draining the oil. Oil Analyzers Inc gives you TBN, oxidation, and nitration for a better deal than a standard Blackstone without a TBN.

Dennis
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:57 AM   #142
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First sample was a dipstick sample to check the condition, and was left in to nearly 3000 miles.

Oil changed at 3,000 miles with Redline 0W-20, and left in until nearly 7,500

Shawn
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:43 AM   #143
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Does anyone know the make up of our bearing shells?

I re-shelled an engine that used lead-over-copper bearings. High copper counts were an indicator that the lead layer had worn away. I'm trying to figure out where the copper in our engine is coming from.
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:53 PM   #144
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Does anyone know the make up of our bearing shells?

I re-shelled an engine that used lead-over-copper bearings. High copper counts were an indicator that the lead layer had worn away. I'm trying to figure out where the copper in our engine is coming from.
Don't know for sure, but there is a belief out there that Subaru stopped using leaded bearings in 2009.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=3108349

I know Nissan quit using lead years ago in all their major lines, except for the GT-R, which has the only leaded bearings in the Nissan lineup that I know of.

Note the high copper in the STI sample as well. Maybe your speculation holds an answer - perhaps there is copper in them there bearings?

Shawn
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:11 PM   #145
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In this thread, the small end bearings look like copper.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/subaru-n...fb20-fb25.html

I'll keep looking for answers on the big end and crank bearings.

If they are all copper, then I'm thrilled with my 1 PPM of copper vs 11 for the universal average.

The lead counts are non-zero, so lead must be used somewhere.

I know that the camshaft bearings are the aluminum caps themselves.
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:18 PM   #146
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
In this thread, the small end bearings look like copper.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/subaru-n...fb20-fb25.html

I'll keep looking for answers on the big end and crank bearings.

If they are all copper, then I'm thrilled with my 1 PPM of copper vs 11 for the universal average.

The lead counts are non-zero, so lead must be used somewhere.

I know that the camshaft bearings are the aluminum caps themselves.
i looked through the stuff i got off the techinfo site about all the changes in the 2012 2.0i and there is nothing about bearings, so they must have been switched to a different material earlier
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:39 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
In this thread, the small end bearings look like copper.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/subaru-n...fb20-fb25.html

I'll keep looking for answers on the big end and crank bearings.

If they are all copper, then I'm thrilled with my 1 PPM of copper vs 11 for the universal average.

The lead counts are non-zero, so lead must be used somewhere.

I know that the camshaft bearings are the aluminum caps themselves.
If you note my last analysis, my last lead count was actually zero. The earlier ones are probably assembly lube or compound.

Shawn
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:56 PM   #148
flyboy1100
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So been a while since my last UOA. still using Amsoi XL, and plan to for the next 20k, then I will change back to Amsoil Signature since I really like how that oil performed. as long as I am still under warranty I don't plan to run extended intervals, but after it will be Signature and hopefully a 12-15k interval. But I digress.

this UOA:
13 days with the high never going above 0F
39 days with the low below 0F
my normal 70/30 split of highway/city
average of 2 hours idling per tank, a few of the tanks probably exceeded 3hours. (which explains the fuel I guess?) This was for warmup, even with the block heater, I like the let the engine warm a bit before driving (helps the driver comfort too)
would have gone to 7500k, but I had a 1400 mile trip to do and with the cold temps didn't want to exceed that.

the sample from 02/05/2013 was Amsoil SS, the other sample was Amsoil OE

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Old 02-11-2014, 05:42 PM   #149
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Interesting, and thanks for paying for a UOA, and for sharing it with the group.

This sounds like a good reason to NOT let an engine idle for long periods before driving. I've never given any of my cars a long idle in cold temps. My typical routine is to start the car, get the radio adjusted, fasten my seat belt, configure the GPS if I need to use it, and then go. I use this same routine regardless of whether it's 50, 30, or 10 degrees. If it gets down to 0 degrees or below, I might give it another minute. I'd say my longest idle in the coldest of temps is 2 or 3 minutes. Then, even though the car is in motion, I am very gentle with the gas, accelerating gingerly until the blue light turns off. But because the engine has some load on it, it warms more quickly.

My Impreza does not consume oil, and neither does my 1999 Civic with 141k miles on it. So my short-idle approach doesn't seem to be damaging my engines (knocking on wood now).

As for driver comfort, the Impreza's seat heaters are excellent (except for the stupid position of the switches). On high, they get too hot very quickly, after which I'm turning them down to low. I find this is very helpful for comfort, before the engine provides warm air into the cabin. I will never buy another car without seat heaters.
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:51 PM   #150
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Interesting, and thanks for paying for a UOA, and for sharing it with the group.

This sounds like a good reason to NOT let an engine idle for long periods before driving. I've never given any of my cars a long idle in cold temps. My typical routine is to start the car, get the radio adjusted, fasten my seat belt, configure the GPS if I need to use it, and then go. I use this same routine regardless of whether it's 50, 30, or 10 degrees. If it gets down to 0 degrees or below, I might give it another minute. I'd say my longest idle in the coldest of temps is 2 or 3 minutes. Then, even though the car is in motion, I am very gentle with the gas, accelerating gingerly until the blue light turns off. But because the engine has some load on it, it warms more quickly.

My Impreza does not consume oil, and neither does my 1999 Civic with 141k miles on it. So my short-idle approach doesn't seem to be damaging my engines (knocking on wood now).

As for driver comfort, the Impreza's seat heaters are excellent (except for the stupid position of the switches). On high, they get too hot very quickly, after which I'm turning them down to low. I find this is very helpful for comfort, before the engine provides warm air into the cabin. I will never buy another car without seat heaters.
but at -15F driving the 1 mile from my house to the interstate and then accelerating to 75mph on a cold engine, also instantly fogs/freezes over all my windows. if the speed is less than 60mph, i don't have this problem.

anyway, no subzero temps, and actually after friday this week, average to above average temps in the foreseeable future. I'm really hoping the subzero crap is over for this year, and then idle times will be cut down severly too.

the Amsoil SS had some idle time too, but not near as much IIRC, hence the much better fuel dilution rating
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