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Old 06-28-2012, 04:15 PM   #1
rokarion
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Default swirls after polish

I claybarred and polished my wife's 04 tl last night before running out of light. It looked great. Now that its sunny, i can see the swirl marks everywhere. The car is one giant swirl mark. I used the cheap 10 inch random buffer from o'reilly autoparts and accompanying terry bonnet. The polish I used was meguiar's proffessional show car glaze 7(1 coat). It doesn't say anything about removing swirls, so i probably just bought the wrong product, and I honestly wasn't thinking about swirls as much as just getting the car clean, and practicing for application on my 11 swp wrx. But now I hate the swirls. My question is, do I have to remove the show car glaze with a solvent or something before I apply swirl-x or some other swirl remover? Or will multiple applications of the show car glaze polish help? Or will wax hide the swirls until the wax wears off? Thanks.

Side note, These swirls were pre-existing as i've owned this car since 2004. The first time I claybar/polished this car many years ago I swirlled the **** out of it, and being discouraged, I stopped doing it myself. Time to man up and fix the problem properly.
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Last edited by rokarion; 06-28-2012 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:03 PM   #2
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Get a DA and remove the swirls, that's really the only way unless you have cannons for arms and shoulders.

Your error was in both the product and the tool.

PM detailersdomain with pictures of the swirls and they'll likely direct you in the right products/equipment.

Wax doesn't hide anything, it amplifies what's underneath it.
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:23 PM   #3
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cannons for arms... lol.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:19 PM   #4
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Go on detailersdomain.com and buy the "Griot's DA kit" with the meguiar's M105/M105 kit. You'll be pretty set. It's not cheap, but without us seeing the exact issue, that's probably your best bet.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IAMDABROODWICH View Post
Go on detailersdomain.com and buy the "Griot's DA kit" with the meguiar's M105/M105 kit. You'll be pretty set. It's not cheap, but without us seeing the exact issue, that's probably your best bet.
I think you mean M105/M205 combination.
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:00 AM   #6
rokarion
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Thanks for the replies. I only had a few hours to work with so I went to pep boys and bought a 3m scratch remover because it had the most detailed instructions ( we're still pretty sparse) and was fairly cheap at $11.95. I applied it using a wool bonnet on my cheap random orbital and wiping dry immediately and it worked pretty well. I would say the swirls went from an 8 or 9 (10 being maximum swirlage possible) to a 1 or 2. Pretty good results for the time and money. Hood was most noticeable and it took me about 15 minutes. There were hazy spots which I removed by rebuffing ( no product) and drying immediately (like within 3 seconds). Will post pics when I'm not working graveyard.
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:11 AM   #7
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Sorry, that was redundant on my part. I meant m105/m205.



Quote:
Originally Posted by pho_shizzle View Post
I think you mean M105/M205 combination.
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:49 AM   #8
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.....I wouldn't dry buff your finish especially with a wool bonnet. Im also not sure what you mean by letting it "dry". With most polishes/compounds, you do not want to let the product dry on the surface like an LSP (last step product; wax/sealant).

Personally, I would tape off a small area of a panel (~1'x1') and focus on trying your products on that section. The idea is to get that area to a point you would like to see the rest of the finish before deciding to tackle the rest of the car. Check your work often and under adequate lighting to ensure your products and techniques are providing the result you desire.

Some products that you may want to check out are Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Meguiars Scratch-X and Meguiars Swirl-X (in order of most aggressive to least aggressive). You can also use their Ultimate Polish to replace the Swirl-X but just know the former is loaded with polishing oils that can act as a filler. .....which isn't necessarily a bad thing depending on your goals.

All of those products listed above will work well by hand or machine. The UC will require some follow up with a moderate polish (like Scratch-X) or finishing polish (like Swirl-X/UP) since IME it leaves some minor marring (especially by hand). When doing your test panel, use the least aggressive product first and move from there if needed. You may find that a relatively moderate polish like Scratch-X is enough to get most of the scratches out and leaves a finish suitable to your liking without follow up with a finishing product. .....or perhaps a 2 step combo like UC and Swirl-X/UP is what you need.

By the way, some LSP's will provide some minor filling/masking ability whether by design or as a by product. ....but any masking will be short lived in most cases.


--sent from mobile phone--
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean
.....I wouldn't dry buff your finish especially with a wool bonnet. Im also not sure what you mean by letting it "dry". With most polishes/compounds, you do not want to let the product dry on the surface like an LSP (last step product; wax/sealant).

Personally, I would tape off a small area of a panel (~1'x1') and focus on trying your products on that section. The idea is to get that area to a point you would like to see the rest of the finish before deciding to tackle the rest of the car. Check your work often and under adequate lighting to ensure your products and techniques are providing the result you desire.

Some products that you may want to check out are Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Meguiars Scratch-X and Meguiars Swirl-X (in order of most aggressive to least aggressive). You can also use their Ultimate Polish to replace the Swirl-X but just know the former is loaded with polishing oils that can act as a filler. .....which isn't necessarily a bad thing depending on your goals.

All of those products listed above will work well by hand or machine. The UC will require some follow up with a moderate polish (like Scratch-X) or finishing polish (like Swirl-X/UP) since IME it leaves some minor marring (especially by hand). When doing your test panel, use the least aggressive product first and move from there if needed. You may find that a relatively moderate polish like Scratch-X is enough to get most of the scratches out and leaves a finish suitable to your liking without follow up with a finishing product. .....or perhaps a 2 step combo like UC and Swirl-X/UP is what you need.

By the way, some LSP's will provide some minor filling/masking ability whether by design or as a by product. ....but any masking will be short lived in most cases.

--sent from mobile phone--
Yeah buffing without product probably not the best idea. I think i put on some new swirls by doing that You can't say "I don't know what you mean by letting it 'dry'". And only put the "dry" in quotes. That implies that somewhere in my post I said I let the product dry, which I didn't.
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rokarion
You can't say "I don't know what you mean by letting it 'dry'". And only put the "dry" in quotes. That implies that somewhere in my post I said I let the product dry, which I didn't.
....must have misread, sorry. Hope the rest of the advice helps though.


--sent from mobile phone--
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:41 PM   #11
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get swirl remover and buff it with a foam pad on a slow speed and that should take them out
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:53 PM   #12
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I can't believe any one hasn't mentioned Adams products. Check it out. Their swirl and scratch remover is awesome. So is the rest of their product line, but you have to order it online.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussell88 View Post
get swirl remover and buff it with a foam pad on a slow speed and that should take them out
+1 this
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:24 AM   #14
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You seem intent on doing it the right way, so my advice as listed above as well, is to just spend the money on a real polisher like Griots, Porter Cable, etc. and stop buying the over the counter stuff. At best that stuff will just hide the problem.
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripperfx3 View Post
You seem intent on doing it the right way, so my advice as listed above as well, is to just spend the money on a real polisher like Griots, Porter Cable, etc. and stop buying the over the counter stuff. At best that stuff will just hide the problem.
....I never bought into the boutique vs. OTS argument. There are plenty of products available via the retail channel that will perform quite well even when compared to more expensive online-only solutions in some cases. Collinite, Duragloss, Meguiars, Auto Magic, 303, etc. all produce some notable products you will see discussed favorably on several of the detailing-specific forums (from the mouths of professional detailers as well as long-time enthusiasts). Heck, even some former boutique lines like Griots (for example) can now be found in many Advance Auto part stores across the nation.

As far as OTS polishes, Meguiars offers several in their consumer line-up that correct quite well by hand or DA. In fact, their Ultimate Compound, Scratch-X 2.0, Swirl-X and Ultimate Polish are all formulated using the same SMAT abrasives as their very popular M105/M205 from their Professional line. Personally, having both the "M" twins and UC, I find myself grabbing for the UC more often.

Having said that, I don't share a general belief that either source offers superior products than the other. ....I'm just making a point that there are some good, well performing products available OTS for those that wish/need to purchase that way. I buy most of my products online (out convenience) but several of them can be found in retail stores as well. I typically prefer to judge products individually rather than by manufacturer, source, etc.
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:23 PM   #16
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I wasn't saying that you needed to buy boutique products and the products you listed I can't find here locally, so my only option is to purchase them online, but yes 105/205 are great polishes and I've used collinite and duragloss in my arsenel as well. I'm just saying a good DA polisher and pad can make a world of difference.
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:58 PM   #17
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^^Agreed. In Tripperfx3's defense Kean, I think he would have been alluding to the OP's use of a "cheap random orbital with a wool pad " (that's what the OP said).

That's a recipe for disaster, especially if that pad ain't perfectly clean.

Sounds more like a rotary buffer to me anyway (if it's using a wool pad).


Either way, this sounds like it can be repaired with a simple GOOD DA polisher (7424, Griots, Megs) and a good polish.....Ultimate Compound may be your best bet here (unless you stick with Griots Polish 2 and 3).

Ultimately, as was said before, we can't advise you UNLESS we see pics of the damage.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega_2nr View Post
^^Agreed. In Tripperfx3's defense Kean, I think he would have been alluding to the OP's use of a "cheap random orbital with a wool pad " (that's what the OP said). That's a recipe for disaster, especially if that pad ain't perfectly clean.

Sounds more like a rotary buffer to me anyway (if it's using a wool pad).
....the OP was also discussing several polishes/products he was using along with that 10" random buffer (orbital). It simply sounded to me Tripper was making a general statement about OTS products with his remark which is why I chimed in. No harm, no foul.

....I would say that tool is definitely DA by the OP's description btw. They do make wool bonnets for them.
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:02 AM   #19
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Back in the day I did this to my old car. Cheap craftsman or orbital with bonnet. I used too little product so the bonnet created all these fine swirls. Find something more fine and use plenty of product. Griots #4 did the trick for me.
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
....the OP was also discussing several polishes/products he was using along with that 10" random buffer (orbital). It simply sounded to me Tripper was making a general statement about OTS products with his remark which is why I chimed in. No harm, no foul.

....I would say that tool is definitely DA by the OP's description btw. They do make wool bonnets for them.
Yes agreed. Didn't mean to split hairs.

And you're right, most likely a DA.

Speaking of which, have you ever had any issues with Megs Ucompound?
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Old 07-06-2012, 06:42 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega_2nr
Speaking of which, have you ever had any issues with Megs Ucompound?
....none actually. In fact, I was impressed with how well it finished via machine for a product that was relatively effective on moderate scratches. Its as easy as M205 IMO and somewhere in between that and M105 in regard to abrasiveness. ....closer to M205 IME. Dusting is about the same as you would expect from these products.
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Old 07-06-2012, 06:46 PM   #22
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I agree.

You could even try Meg's Ultimate Polish first to see if that's enough, and then move up to Ultimate Compound if you need more effect. If you get a hazed finish after UCompound, you can then finish with UPolish.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:40 PM   #23
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^^Will Ult Polish actually remedy the slight hazing caused by Ult Comp on softer paints? Or will it just "galze" over the mild hazing (i.e. "fill") and not actually remedy the issue?

I'm wary about using Ult Comp on certain cars. Like Kias for instance - good lord!!!!
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Old 07-09-2012, 03:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega_2nr
^^Will Ult Polish actually remedy the slight hazing caused by Ult Comp on softer paints? Or will it just "galze" over the mild hazing (i.e. "fill") and not actually remedy the issue?

I'm wary about using Ult Comp on certain cars. Like Kias for instance - good lord!!!!
While UP does have abrasives that will actually help remove/improve scratches, it is also loaded with polishing oils that can act as "fillers" (essentially masking some blemishes). If you are concerned regarding the level of actual correction you're achieving, I would suggest doing a wipe-down with an appropriate solvent before your assessment.

As far as UC.... While effective, it is is relatively mild for a "compound" IMO/IME.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:43 AM   #25
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Quite useful info here. Just wanted to say thanks. But what does DA stand for? Sorry, don't know all the acronyms..
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