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Old 07-05-2012, 12:06 PM   #1
02wrxej208
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Default just ANOTHER stroker build, teenage edition-assembly time!!!

updated pictures on post #3 and page 4, time to assemble the motor

Hello, I have made a few posts about my car and motor since I bought it about 9-10 months ago. It is a 2002 wrx that had a very half ass'ed engine swap with an ej208, jdm tt from an older legacy. I sold my 91 miata right after I turned 16 which had been gifted to me the day I turned 15 and used the money I had saved for a down payment on this car because I always wanted a wrx. I knew close to nothing about it and it turned out to be severely junky, (boost and vacuum leaks everywhere, ripped cv axle boosts, an injector that did not work at idle, it had a decent amount of mods and had NO tune, dents all over, fading and chipped paint, the worst cf trunk I have ever seen, I could go on all day) I was very naive but refusing to give up, I started to spend more time than I would ever admit on NASIOC reading and learning, after slowly fixing tons of odd and end things and fixing up the exterior, my motor spun a bearing.

I got a job at waffle house as a sales person 2-3 months ago and have been ordering car parts to do a full rebuild. Me and a friend pulled the motor out of the car and I plan on taking the heads off monday as I will be out of town all weekend, I am dying to see how the cylinder walls looks and see what is going on in there!

Note: I plan on having my car shortly after I turn 17 in a month and a half

list of parts that I have traded around for/bought/obtained are as follows, will include pics slowly.

Mint condition, used nitrided sti crank and rods, 11k miles from a 2009/10
Mahle 8.0 cr 92.5mm stroker piston
arp rod bolts
perrin turbo inlet(was on the car originally)
fp 18g
stock injectors modified by witchhunter flowing 775cc average
TXS SRI
Invidia downpipe with a dmh electronic cut out
GMS v3 vband CBE(bring on the flood of hate for this knockoff)
GMS aluminum radiator
160 degree thermostat
jdm sti catless uppipe
TGV's being deleted/pnp'ed by a friend locally
CXracing pos fmic(see my review thread)
turboxs dual stage MBC(was on the car originally)
my car also has a 04 wrx trans and rear diff
act stage 2 clutch
exedy flywheel
agency power fuel rails
rotora BBK
kstech 8mm intake spacers
brand new sti oil pump
gates racing timing belt kit
arp head studs
acl race main and rod bearings in standard size
megan motor and transmission mounts
tial q 50mm BOV
brand new oem engine gasket kit


On to the parts I need:

spark plugs
cam gears
coolant
oil
oil pressure gauge and wideband


misc to do while waiting on parts:
configure gauges
bleed brake system
make wiring harness for electronic cut out
hook up steering wheel airbag
pressure wash engine bay
attach: side skirts and 04 bumper


and yes I know this car is going to be swallowing my tips and paychecks for a LONG time.

on to the pics!




the half ass'ed plug on the second turbo oil feed line

this clutch was ready to break in half.


Note: I am a perfectionist so I will be steadily cleaning EVERY part, the engine bay ect to make this stuff shine





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Last edited by 02wrxej208; 01-23-2013 at 02:03 AM.
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:14 PM   #2
02wrxej208
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2002 stroked 20g bug
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(painting the grill, IE the blue tape and no center badge, it sits up like a 4x4 with no engine to weigh it down=( )








Last edited by 02wrxej208; 07-30-2012 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:25 AM   #3
02wrxej208
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January 21st updates, got my motor back, time to re-assemble, see page 4








some updates, got my megan motor and trans mounts, a used act streetlite flywheel and my prosport evo boost gauge(planning to buy my friends aem wideband before I get it running and tuned), also with the clutch is a slightly used "exedy stage 1 clutch" although I am not seeing any part #s or name brand on it, it does say dk on it in a few spots. I got it for so cheap I wont be mad if it is not as an exedy, I will post pics tomorrow, also how do I tell if I should replace the throwout bearing on it?

Last edited by 02wrxej208; 01-23-2013 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:51 AM   #4
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you can reuse your case bolts.

i wouldn't run that gearbox mount though as it sends the whine through the cabin. i noticed no increase in NVH with the engine mounts however.

GL!
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:12 PM   #5
02wrxej208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
you can reuse your case bolts.

i wouldn't run that gearbox mount though as it sends the whine through the cabin. i noticed no increase in NVH with the engine mounts however.

GL!
I dont mind the whine, but I had a missfire at idle on my engine for a while and it destroyed my oem mounts
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:08 PM   #6
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haha you say that now but trust me, it gets pretty bloody irritating lol
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:20 PM   #7
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Just going put in my 2cents.

Buying used parts is fine when your on a budget but some parts you dont wanna buy used, just not worth the couple bucks you save. Example: dont buy used clutches/flywheels or cranks in the future. I could be wrong but sounds like you got a OEM replacement used clutch and you can get them for about 200 new. A flywheel isnt something you want to buy used since you should resurface it any time you have the motor out. Also some light-weight flywheels can cause misfires/CEL/ and be more difficult to launch...although I know people that have ran the ACT one with good results.
A new STI crank is about 300 and for many reasons its nice to use a new one in a rebuld. Now dont get me wrong I have lots of used parts on my car but some things I was better off buying new.

**On the build you need to get the machining done but someone that has done subaru motors with good results. Your buddy's dad that builds super fast domestics isnt who you go to. It might cost more but you do NOT want you motor to blow anytime soon. So tq plates must be used and you might need a line hone all of which take time/$$$**

Is your motor a closed deck block? If it is I highly suggest you spend the extra coin on some good rods...not cheap H-beams. A closed deck 2.1 with good internals will be a beast of a motor. You might not need them now but if you go to a big turbo you wont have to worry about the motor.
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:01 AM   #8
02wrxej208
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the parts that I am buying used are all only bought used because they fall into this category: MINT condition, I am very picky, are priced so much so that they will save me a ton of money, or a part that if it fails, I am not screwed, IE the downpipe with an electronic cut out, the clutch and flywheel cost me pennies on the dollar, so much so that if I decide to go a different route, I will sell the clutch and make money.

I have heard you dont want to resurface aftermarket flywheels such as act, is this true?
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:16 AM   #9
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I'm using a resurfaced ACT Streetlite flywheel now. Had it done with a clutch replacement about 2k miles ago. So far its working well. The flywheel surface didn't need much taken off to clean it up though.
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:22 AM   #10
LBell05STI
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How did you determine that the crank was mint? Do you have microscopic eyes? How did you measure the journals? I would never grind a OEM crank not worth it. Buying used you would be dumb not to grind it down, and that's going to cost a pretty penny.
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:35 AM   #11
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If he knew the person selling the crank and exactly what it's history was, then he could say it's mint.

I am using a used 11' Sti crank in my build and can say it's mint with only 18k on it because the guy I got the crank from locally just had a cracked ringland and pulled the motor to do a full sleeved race motor with all new internals. I still mic'd the whole crank to be sure everything is perfect and it is. If it wasn't, then I would have asked for my money back, but Pat is the kind of dude that would have been fine with that. He is building a 5k+ shortblock for a dedicated track car, so what's another $350 for a brand new crank? I saw what his heads&block looked like and it was just a cracked ringland, not a chunked one that was causing mechanical damage. Just lost compression and he is a perfectionist.

Nothing wrong with using a used crank for your build as long as you check it. Hell, I look at it in my case as being a good thing because at least I know the crank isn't bent like some of the stories I have been reading about on the new cranks.
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:08 AM   #12
02wrxej208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBell05STI View Post
How did you determine that the crank was mint? Do you have microscopic eyes? How did you measure the journals? I would never grind a OEM crank not worth it. Buying used you would be dumb not to grind it down, and that's going to cost a pretty penny.
It came from a friends bone stock 09 sti, 11k miles that got pulled to do a 2.6l build for big power. that being said I still will NOT use any of the major used parts/rods/crank/clutch until I have had them thoroughly inspected by a professional

why would grinding the crank down be a good idea?
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Old 07-28-2012, 12:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02wrxej208

why would grinding the crank down be a good idea?
If the journals were worn/damaged. With 11k I'm guessing it I'll be OK.
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:06 PM   #14
Crazykev
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I would ditch the crank and get a new one before having it ground. You can have it polished if need be, but beyond that it pretty much isn't worth it.
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:42 PM   #15
02wrxej208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazykev View Post
I would ditch the crank and get a new one before having it ground. You can have it polished if need be, but beyond that it pretty much isn't worth it.
I wouldnt have it ground though unless it needed it, which it shouldnt because the journals are fine, came from a fully functional motor, if I had it inspected and they suggested that, I would just purchase a new one.
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Old 07-28-2012, 02:25 PM   #16
Irv Weissmanhowerton
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Damn i wish i knew this much when i was 16. Keep up the good work dude. You've got a bright future at this rate
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Old 07-28-2012, 02:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irv Weissmanhowerton View Post
Damn i wish i knew this much when i was 16. Keep up the good work dude. You've got a bright future at this rate
+123

Good luck, op.

C
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Old 07-28-2012, 05:33 PM   #18
02wrxej208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irv Weissmanhowerton View Post
Damn i wish i knew this much when i was 16. Keep up the good work dude. You've got a bright future at this rate
Quote:
Originally Posted by soon2bblackongold View Post
+123

Good luck, op.

C
thanks guys, I need some really quick help, I bought a rotora big brake kit off a guy in the local forums insanely cheap, one side went on fine but when I went to put on the passengers side brake line, the top threads going into the caliper were missing so the banjo bolt wouldnt grab! is this something that can be re-threaded? do they make longer banjo bolts for this?? the guy said he had no idea and would give me a full refund but, they are so sexy. any tips?? I was about to call rotora/stop tech/some local brake places
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:02 PM   #19
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helicoil it?
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:25 PM   #20
02wrxej208
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helicoil it?
wont I have to completely take the caliper apart, then drill out the hole and rethread it?
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:47 PM   #21
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Most likely but that isn't too hard
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Old 07-28-2012, 09:59 PM   #22
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I am hoping the best for you with this build and any comments I have made were intended to be constructive criticism. Whether or not the vehicle is function doesnt determine how "true" the crank is. The journals and bearings are wear and tear items, and even after 11k miles they will have some sort of wear or unevenness(even a word?.) I hope everything works out perfectly for you though. Alot of builders throw away cranks due to the fact you can find them for under $300 shipped from many places, and the potential issues with polishing and grinding the crank arent worth it. A lot of people are having issues with bearing sizes from manufactures and you will have to mix and match bearings to get proper clearances on a machined crank. This all leads to added costs in the end, and to spin balance and grind a crank can cost upwards of $150 itself which is already half the cost of a new crank. See where im going here?
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:29 PM   #23
02wrxej208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBell05STI View Post
I am hoping the best for you with this build and any comments I have made were intended to be constructive criticism. Whether or not the vehicle is function doesnt determine how "true" the crank is. The journals and bearings are wear and tear items, and even after 11k miles they will have some sort of wear or unevenness(even a word?.) I hope everything works out perfectly for you though. Alot of builders throw away cranks due to the fact you can find them for under $300 shipped from many places, and the potential issues with polishing and grinding the crank arent worth it. A lot of people are having issues with bearing sizes from manufactures and you will have to mix and match bearings to get proper clearances on a machined crank. This all leads to added costs in the end, and to spin balance and grind a crank can cost upwards of $150 itself which is already half the cost of a new crank. See where im going here?
completely understood, and I know where you are coming from, the used parts in my engine are points of worry for me but I got the crank and rods together from my friend for 200 so I could not pass it up as that saves me a few hundred dollars which is a lot for my budget, I bought them knowing I may not use them but if on the lucky chance the clearances all match up and what not and the professionals okay them, I will use them

edit: While tearing my motor down, I found out my fuel pressure regular was F%^&#D, it was like...fiber glassed together/all over, I just got my agency power fuel rails, will an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator eliminate the need for the oem one?/which one do you guys suggest as the best bang for the buck

Last edited by 02wrxej208; 07-29-2012 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:11 AM   #24
02wrxej208
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:49 AM   #25
Irv Weissmanhowerton
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is that a vf43 or 48 or wha? sorry to hear about the caliper issues, Id at least make the guy give back a little bit for your time if it was his fault and didnt disclose it

ps. if you want to try another crack at buying some used crank and rods, I can match that 200, from an 06 wrx, ej255, same exact internals and case for the shortblock , all EXCEPT the pistons are the same, have all the parts from the block dis-assembled and already hot tanked, 400 for everything or 200 for the rods and crank, but like others said, a brand new on is only 300 for the new style black nitride sti crank off ebay from a subaru dealership
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