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Old 07-29-2012, 05:59 AM   #26
Paul
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Again not tring to bust balls or anything and I do hope you take this as constructive criticism

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02wrxej208 View Post
completely understood, and I know where you are coming from, the used parts in my engine are points of worry for me but I got the crank and rods together from my friend for 200 so I could not pass it up as that saves me a few hundred dollars which is a lot for my budget, I bought them knowing I may not use them but if on the lucky chance the clearances all match up and what not and the professionals okay them, I will use them
^this is a perfect example of parts I said you dont wanna buy used. Im telling you this from personal experience and hind sight($$$ I lost)...Like I said Im all about buying used parts but you HAVE to weight your options.

You spent 200 for used parts you coulda got for 400-450 new. The 200 you saved isnt worth the risk or the worry in the back of your mind. Price everything out and do alot of research on here before you start spending your limited budget.

The biggest thing on your mind tho should be who is going build your motor?!!? Do you have anyone in mind?!!???


EDIT: The pictures of the clutch look very good!! Should be good with that for alil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02wrxej208 View Post
edit: While tearing my motor down, I found out my fuel pressure regular was F%^&#D, it was like...fiber glassed together/all over, I just got my agency power fuel rails, will an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator eliminate the need for the oem one?/which one do you guys suggest as the best bang for the buck
The stock fuel pressure regualtor can fall apart easily and does kinda look fiberglassed/glued together..LOL I aftermarket FPR will get rid of the stocker. Just run a decent one like aeromotive and some SS lines to your rail.
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Last edited by Paul; 07-29-2012 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:15 AM   #27
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go and get your crank/rods checked by a builder/machine shop
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:05 PM   #28
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^he already said he was
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:59 PM   #29
02wrxej208
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few updates and questions, when did subaru cranks begin becoming nitride treated?

also somebody offered me a deal I could not pass up on my vf34 so I sold it and bought this...forced performance 18g(I think) I found another members for sale posting for a fp 18g and the numbers on the plate matched up, but when I saw someone selling a fp evoIII 16g today, it also had the same numbers, so now I am not quite sure which turbo I have...





also a friend brought over a flywheel and clutch today, he has a friend that takes used oem clutches and gives brand new oem in return, not sure how it works but I was wondering if it would be okay to use a oem clutch on this build 2.1l stroker with a fp 18(fp evoIII 16g, not sure which one), I wont dump the clutch like an idiot but I dont want the torque to destroy the clutch after a month.

the used clutch previously mention may not be an oem, the clutch has a slight blue-ish tint and says DK on it, where as the oem one does not, could that stand for Daiken and be this clutch?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH...ht_2559wt_1037

which leads to my next question, why is this exedy clutch less than half the cost of one from IIR(no I am not in love with exedy, I would prefer an ACT street clutch)

finally I have this flywheel that he brought over also that I am trying to sell as it will be too light for my needs, about to weigh it but I am pretty sure it is 9lbs.

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Old 07-31-2012, 12:39 AM   #30
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2008+ they started to Nitride the cranks.

That wheel looks really big, I would guess it was a 18g.

Exeddy owns the patent on the pull type clutch our car uses, so I believe the discs will always have exedy on them.... So I have heard.

Look into RPS clutches. Pretty good bang for the buck.
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Old 07-31-2012, 01:08 AM   #31
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The ebay link is to the replacement stock clutch I was talking about. They are good for 300whp easily even with some drag use. So you should be fine with that clutch and Im sure you know you do NOT want to put a stiff clutch in with the stock 5-speed.

If you want a cheaper stg1 type clutch you should look at the southbend. Last time I looked they were 250$ and my cousin ran one with lots of drag use with great results.

Like I and you said you do NOt want that 9lb flywheel

08+ for nitrided cranks
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Old 07-31-2012, 01:38 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
The ebay link is to the replacement stock clutch I was talking about. They are good for 300whp easily even with some drag use. So you should be fine with that clutch and Im sure you know you do NOT want to put a stiff clutch in with the stock 5-speed.

If you want a cheaper stg1 type clutch you should look at the southbend. Last time I looked they were 250$ and my cousin ran one with lots of drag use with great results.

Like I and you said you do NOt want that 9lb flywheel

08+ for nitrided cranks
Thanks for the advice, since I have this brand new oem clutch and pressure plate, ill probs use it, and yeah to the stiff clutch, a local guy suggested a 6 puck and I gave him the



Thought so on the nitride part just was not completely sure,

I am selling the flywheel

edit: incase people dont look at the first page, a pic of my car(the exterior is a project too but has come a LONG WAY, chipped headlights, ricey body kit, autozone tip exhaust, stock wheels, worst cf trunk I have ever seen, I could go on all day)
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:20 PM   #33
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what type of gasket seal do you guys recommend I use? do I need to use it on like my head gaskets or just stuff like tgv's/tb ect.

Also the thing that I thought was my FPR was definitely not, ill take a pic of it soon so you guys can help me identify what it is that I will be replacing because it is actually fiberglassed together.
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:57 PM   #34
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you need to get a FSM and it will tell you all the spots to put the fiji bond.
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:03 AM   #35
02wrxej208
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Quote:
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you need to get a FSM and it will tell you all the spots to put the fiji bond.
what is a fsm?
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:05 AM   #36
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I was going to say the same thing to him, paul.

Fsm=factory service manual. You can find it for free online, if you are a good searcher.
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Old 08-03-2012, 02:45 AM   #37
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I've got all the service manuals from 02 to like 10. PM your email and I'll try and send them.
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:10 AM   #38
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agency power fuel rails got here today, fp 18g should be here in the next few days, I think I am going to call real street performance tomorrow, I am probably going to see how many arms and legs it would cost me if I sent them rods, pistons, a crank, and case halves/bolts to see what they would charge too bore/hone it, inspect everything, blue print and assemble.

I mean it shouldnt be TOO much
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:07 AM   #39
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sigh....cannot find ANYONE locally with an ej motor torque plate, real street performance has a 3 month turn around time and S&R performance wants to charge me 500 just to bore it, not sure what to do about this.....flipping pensacola's lack of performance shops
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:39 PM   #40
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ask team scream
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:45 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02wrxej208 View Post
sigh....cannot find ANYONE locally with an ej motor torque plate, real street performance has a 3 month turn around time and S&R performance wants to charge me 500 just to bore it, not sure what to do about this.....flipping pensacola's lack of performance shops
Contact B.R.E.D. on here. He isnt too far from you and does good work at a reasonable rate
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:34 AM   #42
02wrxej208
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talked to BRED, may be working something out with him because my parents are for sure going to Atlanta, and I may be going with them if I can get off work
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:39 AM   #43
02wrxej208
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few nic pics/questions, this was the thing that I thought was my FPR that is fiberglassed together, what is it and why is that one line blocked off?
edit: just figured out this was my oem boost controller? I had another part mounted next to my dual stage turboxs boost controller that my tuner said was the oem one, and I sold it...sooooo...yeah, any thoughts?
also on the perrin turbo inlet, what is this port for right before the turbo, it came blocked off like this
edit: this was the boost controlling part I sold


dat new turbo, going from spinning the vf34 which was a ball bearing I think, to this which is a journal bearing I think(will actually look stuff up later) is a HUGE difference, the vf34 spun for like 5-6 seconds after releasing via a hand spin, where as this stops almost immediately



Last edited by 02wrxej208; 08-11-2012 at 03:29 AM.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:59 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02wrxej208
few nic pics/questions, this was the thing that I thought was my FPR that is fiberglassed together, what is it and why is that one line blocked off?
edit: just figured out this was my oem boost controller? I had another part mounted next to my dual stage turboxs boost controller that my tuner said was the oem one, and I sold it...sooooo...yeah, any thoughts?
also on the perrin turbo inlet, what is this port for right before the turbo, it came blocked off like this
edit: this was the boost controlling part I sold

dat new turbo, going from spinning the vf34 which was a ball bearing I think, to this which is a journal bearing I think(will actually look stuff up later) is a HUGE difference, the vf34 spun for like 5-6 seconds after releasing via a hand spin, where as this stops almost immediately
The port blocked is for the bov recirculating.
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:25 AM   #45
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Quote:
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The port blocked is for the bov recirculating.
so that port is supposed to be blocked off if you are using a fully atmospheric bov?
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Old 08-12-2012, 02:14 AM   #46
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yes, though with a stock maf setup or really any maf setup you dont want to lose any air after the maf. it will and does always though the tune off during a pressure release. map based tuning ftw. with that metered air getting out and not into the engine the computer is tossing fuel into the engine for the amount of air that is measured.. with map based tuning I could pull my intake off the throttle body and my car would start and run fine. no joke. In fact im gonna try that so I know its true.

I also im under a teen age build, it may be worse planned then yours really, i have parts capable of 600 bhp and its my first engine build and im doing it my self. Im 18. im using a 10 under crank, and a stock transmission, the body im working with has 247,xxx miles on it. o and im tuning it my self with mega squirt. i give it 2 week and my car blows up.
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:53 AM   #47
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Teenage builds ftw! I'm 19 and building an ej22t 2.35 stroker. First engine build for me as well. subbed for the good info coming out of this thread and Best of luck with your build.
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Old 08-12-2012, 04:06 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swagon_Wagon View Post
yes, though with a stock maf setup or really any maf setup you dont want to lose any air after the maf. it will and does always though the tune off during a pressure release. map based tuning ftw. with that metered air getting out and not into the engine the computer is tossing fuel into the engine for the amount of air that is measured.. with map based tuning I could pull my intake off the throttle body and my car would start and run fine. no joke. In fact im gonna try that so I know its true.

I also im under a teen age build, it may be worse planned then yours really, i have parts capable of 600 bhp and its my first engine build and im doing it my self. Im 18. im using a 10 under crank, and a stock transmission, the body im working with has 247,xxx miles on it. o and im tuning it my self with mega squirt. i give it 2 week and my car blows up.
sounds bad as hell lol, I was about to start to looking into how speed density tuning works, my tuner has a bugeye also(600+whp) its all open source and I know he can tune speed density on a 16 bit ecu even though hes running a aem with self tuned antilag lol. and yes, bov's = momentary richness = shooting fireballs Ive been thinking about getting a recirc hks for the build.
Quote:
Originally Posted by orson250 View Post
Teenage builds ftw! I'm 19 and building an ej22t 2.35 stroker. First engine build for me as well. subbed for the good info coming out of this thread and Best of luck with your build.
ej22's are the s%^& and thanks, you two
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:34 PM   #49
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check out my semi crap build thread on lgt.com. i have one on here but i never update it.
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:00 AM   #50
02wrxej208
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so besides machine work, I still need the oil pump, bearings, arp case bolts, probably a wideband, and oil cooler. I was wondering if I could get away with just replacing the belt and belt tensioner? the cost difference between the whole kit with the pulleys and water pump, would save me a lot of money=s

also, SOMEBODY BUY THIS CLUTCH MASTERS FLYWHEEL lol
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