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Old 08-15-2012, 01:27 AM   #51
Paul
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ARP case bolts distort the case more and arnt needed at your power level so Id skip them. OEM will work fine.

How many miles on the timing belt/tensioner? If you do reuse the tensioner make sure you push the pin in very slowly. I think the FSM says it should take 10mins.

Spin the pulleys by hand with the belt off. If they spin freely and sound like a skateboard wheel they Need to be replace
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Old 08-16-2012, 12:49 AM   #52
02wrxej208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
ARP case bolts distort the case more and arnt needed at your power level so Id skip them. OEM will work fine.

How many miles on the timing belt/tensioner? If you do reuse the tensioner make sure you push the pin in very slowly. I think the FSM says it should take 10mins.

Spin the pulleys by hand with the belt off. If they spin freely and sound like a skateboard wheel they Need to be replace
I wouldnt be using arp case bolts, just head bolts. I will use oem case bolts. and I have no idea, ALLEGEDLY this ej208 should have 60-70k miles on it, but after realizing how much the original owner lied to begin with, I have no clue.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:20 AM   #53
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Id just replace all the timing parts for piece of mind


Your last post said arp case bolts and thats why I thought you were going run them. The price of arp head studs has gone up alot and arnt really needed for your build. If you wanna save $$$ see how BRED feels about using new OEM head bolts. Help fund the timing parts
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:35 PM   #54
02wrxej208
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my bad, I meant head studs. the price difference is around 50$, I still have no idea how I am going to get my machine work done, I am going to contact BRED again today, I was suppose to go up to Atlanta with my parents and I could just drop the block off but cant get off work labor day weekend
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:42 PM   #55
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the difference is closer to a 100....arps are 190 and the oem are 100

See if your parents can drop the block off for ya. How far is real street performance from ya?
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:13 AM   #56
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like 8 hours, atlanta is closer, and real street has a turn around time of 2-3 months atm. the total price would not be TOO bad(it still makes me cringe though) atm though, he said if I drop off the block halves/rods/crank/pistons, he would hand me back an assembled block for around 900
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:14 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by 02wrxej208 View Post
like 8 hours, atlanta is closer, and real street has a turn around time of 2-3 months atm. the total price would not be TOO bad(it still makes me cringe though) atm though, he said if I drop off the block halves/rods/crank/pistons, he would hand me back an assembled block for around 900
That ain't too bad at all. I spent $1100 for my machine work But I had a good amount of work needed to be done.
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:57 PM   #58
02wrxej208
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dang... still, 500$ is a fat chunk of my budget=(

oh I figured out what I am doing about my rotora caliper, I got my stoptech ss brake lines in the mail yesterday, I plan on taking the caliper to a local shop to get it helicoiled( I dont trust my life with helicoil) SO then, with the bolt/washers/brake line on, I will add some solder to the caliper/bolt to make sure they hold together. I don't plan on selling this kit so if I ever have to remove the caliper completely, the line will just come with it. This is the only option I can think of that will give me the peace of mind to drive with me and my friends in the car with.

and today I am no longer 16, one year closer to being legal
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:10 AM   #59
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team scream has torque plates for a very good price, shipped(better than what the machine work would cost me) so I want to see if any of the reputable machine shops in town would work out a deal with me where I give them the torque plate, and they machine block for free. It would open up there business to a lot of new customers
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Old 08-25-2012, 02:46 PM   #60
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just ordered my 2.0 torque plate from team scream, they are REALLY HELPFUL AND KNOWLEDGEABLE I will be buying brand new OEM head bolts and taking the block to a local shop to get the machine work done at, also team scream provided me with this info which some extra steps I will be adding into my build to ensure optimum quality

I will copy the whole message so that I can use it for future reference and also to show how awesome team scream is

Dont sweat it brother, I am glad to see a young gun going at it by him self! That is the stuff that makes me grin from ear to ear. If I can be any help at all I am more than happy to do so.

So, lets cover a few things first here.

(A) You ABSOLUTELY must hone the bores with the torque plate torqued using the studs/bolts you are going to run on the engine.

(B) Unless you are running crazy boost, you don't really need ARP head studs, the stock studs are fine.

I increase the torque on stock studs to 43 ft/lbs in 3 equal steps using the factory torque pattern and have good results. That is a minor increase in torque that the OEM bolts will handle just fine. Dont bother with going the extra 45 degrees that the manual states, just run them up to 43 ft/lbs in 3 equal steps and done.

(C) If re-using the OEM head bolts, make sure to buy brand new head bolt sealing washers. They are the ones with the rubber seals on them. DO NOT re-use old sealing washers.

(D) Have the entire rotating assembly balanced.
This means the flywheel and clutch pressure plate as well. This is mandatory and will allow the machinist to see any crank runout while he is at it.

The line hone (necessity) is not dictated by which head studs you use but by the condition of the main journal bores when you take your initial bearing size measurements. If you cannot get good measurements with the case halves torqued, you may have to have the main tunnel align honed.

You will almost certainly need to mix and match bearings to get the right clearances, so save the money you were going to spend on head studs and buy 2 sets of main bearings and 2 sets of rod bearings (one standard size and one +.001"). That way when you start chasing your clearances, you have the bearings sitting there to be able to hit the mark(s) you are looking for.

Cleanliness is the single most important thing when building one of these engines, so if you are not working on the engine or the parts, they are covered with large plastic bags or in sealed containers. Do not even walk away from the engine on a stand or on the bench for 30 minutes with things uncovered. SOMETHING will get in there and you will not know about it until you spin a bearing.

The rods are super critical that you get the proper clearances. You should shoot for .002" and you should shoot for .0012 to .0016 on the mains. A little loose is way better than a little tight no matter what.

On the piston to wall clearance, .002 is a bit aggressive, but doable, as long as you can control heat in the engine. That means a good Koyo or Mishimoto radiator, new thermostat and new water pump and never let the thing over heat. If you are going to run the stock radiator, you will be better off playing it safe and going for .0025 to .003". 4032 pistons are quieter by nature than 2618 so unless you can be absolutely certain that you can control heat, it is better to play it safe with the piston to wall clearances. At .003 your engine will be quiet as a mouse no matter what.

Ring gapping is a seriously time consuming endeavor, and one that needs to be approached with extreme patience and attention to detail. You will gap the rings with the torque plate installed and torqued with a used head gasket in place..

Take your time here and sneak up on each ring gap slowly until you hit the mark. Make sure to carefully deburr the top and bottom flats of each ring so they wont hang up in the ring groove. Buy a pair of old man reading glasses from the dollar store, in as high magnification you can get so you can really get a good close look at ALL surfaces you hit with a file, the ring grinder, or the stone, and make 100% certain you remove all of the burrs and leave the rest of the ring surfaces unscathed.

Do not go hog wild on sealing the case halves. Get an eye liner brush from your chick to use as a precision spreader for the FujiBond. I have a thread somewhere that shows how I do it. I think it is in my thread called "tricks of the trade". Do the same thing with the cam caps on the heads and you will have a perfect seal and not too much goo spewing out between the mating surfaces.

Do you have a bore gauge and micrometers? These are absolutely mandatory when building one of these engines unless you want to wing it and try and use plasti-gauge which is useless in my experience and opinion.

Keep me posted with your progress, I would love to hear about it.

P.S. I am not on Nasioc every day, but I try to check in at least every 2 days so bear with me.

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Old 09-04-2012, 07:37 PM   #61
02wrxej208
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a few updates, took my flywheel to get it resurfaced today, I will probably use this shop to refresh my heads

I am selling the used stock sti rods and arp rod bolts because a friend sold me BNIB eagle h rods for a very good price, I will also be picking up arp race main and rod bearings from him, pictures soon to follow.

also, for an 08+ nitride crank, is it okay to run acl races as a daily driver? friend is cutting me a deal for mains and rods, 75 for both BNIB

Last edited by 02wrxej208; 09-05-2012 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:14 AM   #62
02wrxej208
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weighed stuff today: here are my pistons, wrist pins and rod weights:
Pistons:340g, 339.6g, 339.6g, 339.2g
wrist pins: 122g,122g,122g,121.9g
rods: 528.1g, 528.8g, 527.7g, 528.9g
are these weights close enough that it would be okay to not have them balanced?


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Old 09-05-2012, 01:26 PM   #63
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IMO, get them balanced...
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:00 AM   #64
02wrxej208
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okay so I am not quite sure which cylinder this is but the cylinder closest to the drivers side headlight, has the spun bearing, I removed the oil pan today and when the crank rotates, that rod would have a slight lag at the end of the stroke before it hit the crank and moved again.

also F%^K cam gear bolts. 3 were super easy, one stripped, I am not sure what to do now as I do not have any welding tools to weld on a cv axle bolt and take it off. would a stripped bolt socket work on the outside of the bolt?


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Old 09-10-2012, 12:33 AM   #65
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Just read through your thread, in process of a stroker myself.

I ran into the same problems with the cam bolts. After using my homemade breaker bar (made of the square tube of my engine hoist) I stripped two of the 3 stuck bolts. I ended up drilling them with a 7/16" (a 21/64" will also work) drill bit. A lot of people try an impact, so if you have one readily available, go for it. If not, don't bother fighting it and just drill it out.

If you go the drill route, center the bit in the head of the bolt and apply a lot of pressure with low drill RPM; if you get it too hot you'll just harden the bolt and it'll eat your bit. I ended up having to drill just past the head of the bolt. Once you relieve that pressure, you will be able to run it out with your fingers.

Good luck and I'll be following along with your story!

Last edited by DSMaverick; 09-11-2012 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:29 AM   #66
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I am going to try and use a stripped bolt socket set on the outside of the allen head since its completely round...if not I will try to drill it.

is there anyway/adapters to make it so I can use a 2 bolt bov on my fmic which has a weld flange? I would rather not use an hks.
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:51 AM   #67
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torque plate just got here from team scream, will post pictures tomorrow, the quality is amazing, thanks for the awesome customer service
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:58 PM   #68
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Hey guys I know it's been a while, haven't really had a whole lot of motivation to work on it so I have just been saving all my money too get all the machine work and order parts at once, I'll post some pictures in a few.

Also a local guy sold me a BNIB act stage 2 full face clutch, pressure plate and exedy flywheel rated to like 469 ft/lbs. so to help get some money back I have my exedy stage 2 clutch/pressure plate with a brand new throw out bearing for an 02-05 trans, act 14lb flywheel, just had it resurfaced, and my oem front rotors/calipers and pads(brand new pads, one new rotor) for sale. If anyone is interested message me
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:57 AM   #69
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awesome thread man! im 17 as well and am planning to rebuild my wrx shortly!
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:06 PM   #70
561wrx
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Cool trade man.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:22 PM   #71
02wrxej208
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updates! I have just been saving money and not really working on the car because of I have been busy with school/work/the new gf( I really like this one haha, 5'1, 101lbs, 32D's, LOVES subarus )

yesterday I used a stripped bolt socket remover too hammer onto the cam gear bolt and finish taking the heads off
edit: also, my fmic pipes have a weld flange for an hks BOV, but I realllllly want a txs BOV, what would be the best way to go about adapting the pipe to fit some type of bov besides hks? do they make a flange that I can weld to the pipe to use a 2 bolt bov?


my valvetrain is INCREDIBLY clean, but I am still taking the heads to a very reputable local machine shop tomorrow too have them full cleaned/rebuilt all that good stuff.

I will also drop off the shortblock and torque plate, they will strip it down to empty case halves, use my torque plate to bore and hone the motor, then reassemble.





also, pic of the brakes/new lugs and the wheels


Last edited by 02wrxej208; 10-29-2012 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:46 PM   #72
Paul
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what txs bov? you sure you want to run one? 99% of the people that have used one think they suck....including me. You can shim them up to work ok but they dont seem to last long
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:08 PM   #73
02wrxej208
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what txs bov? you sure you want to run one? 99% of the people that have used one think they suck....including me. You can shim them up to work ok but they dont seem to last long
I meant a tial Q BOV, could I buy something like this and have it welded onto the hks spot and use it as a v band?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tial-50mm-BO...c4aeae&vxp=mtr

also how much psi is running through my break lines? I am trying to figure out if just welding the banjo bolt+line to the caliper would be safe, I dont want to step on the breaks and my line pop off and me die. hopefully I will be finished with this beast by december, just ordered a group buy BNIB 11mm sti oil pump also
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:48 PM   #74
Paul
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that link is just for the o-ring not the weld on adapter. If you did get the adapter it would be cake for someone to weld on for ya
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:58 PM   #75
02wrxej208
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that link is just for the o-ring not the weld on adapter. If you did get the adapter it would be cake for someone to weld on for ya
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tial-50mm-BO...fd572c&vxp=mtr

so if I got this I could weld it over the hks spot and use a tial v band?
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