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Old 01-29-2013, 12:45 PM   #101
Scuby04STi
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I would use a thread chasing tap on ALL the major parts, takes 5 seconds before you toss the bolts in and you know its clean. Also why not give it a shot to snag a different pan? That pick up would keep me guessing every time I drove if I had a good one sitting in my counter.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:44 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuby04STi View Post
I would use a thread chasing tap on ALL the major parts, takes 5 seconds before you toss the bolts in and you know its clean. Also why not give it a shot to snag a different pan? That pick up would keep me guessing every time I drove if I had a good one sitting in my counter.

I did put my stock pick up and pan back on, but after letting the gasket seal sit and tightening down the bolts a 1/4-1/2 turn, I rolled my block over and heard something in my oil pan. Surely it couldn't not be a bolt, I am crazy about cleanliness and keeping track of everything. Took my oil pan back off and found this:



some of the gasket seal got under one of the bolts and I guess the pressured popped the bottom off the socket. I found the piece, cleaned everything up, ordered a 2.5l oil pan so I WILL put the moroso back on. now I am at a loss as too what I need to about the small chunk missing.

Can it hurt anything? will it be okay if i just put the gasket sealer on that bolt and thread it back in so oil does not leak out of the hole and not worry about it?
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:43 PM   #103
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Like scooby04sti said you need to chase all of those holes with a thread chasing tap. Get any residual crap out. Then replace that bolt...there are plenty of other places to steal one from on the car.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:48 PM   #104
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Like scooby04sti said you need to chase all of those holes with a thread chasing tap. Get any residual crap out. Then replace that bolt...there are plenty of other places to steal one from on the car.
I chased them but its not the bolt that broke. It's the block itself, I'll try to post some pictures in a little bit. The pocket that the threads for these bolts sits in, the bottom busted out because the pressure of the bolt+the gasket stuff, was too high. It's like blowing the bottom out of a cup and lost a few threads
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:17 PM   #105
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hmmm, I see what you mean. If it was me i would either look into sealing it from the inside with JB weld or something along those lines if its just the end but if part of the thread broke off as well I would just seal that bolt up with some gasket seal like you mentioned.

I think breaking that was a sign from the subi Gods that the old pick up was going to fall apart during break in lol (always need to be possessive)

But to me it looked like you may have not used the washer on that bolt or like you said something (sealer) was in the hole so it aided in bottoming out that bolt. When i chase a thread I always blow it out with air to be sure the extra material is not just sitting in the bottom of the bolt hole.

Side note: Im hours away from dropping mine back in and crossing my fingers after over a year and a half I put everything back where it belongs lol
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:17 PM   #106
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hmmm, I see what you mean. If it was me i would either look into sealing it from the inside with JB weld or something along those lines if its just the end but if part of the thread broke off as well I would just seal that bolt up with some gasket seal like you mentioned.

I think breaking that was a sign from the subi Gods that the old pick up was going to fall apart during break in lol (always need to be possessive)

But to me it looked like you may have not used the washer on that bolt or like you said something (sealer) was in the hole so it aided in bottoming out that bolt. When i chase a thread I always blow it out with air to be sure the extra material is not just sitting in the bottom of the bolt hole.

Side note: Im hours away from dropping mine back in and crossing my fingers after over a year and a half I put everything back where it belongs lol
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:09 AM   #107
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hmmm, I see what you mean. If it was me i would either look into sealing it from the inside with JB weld or something along those lines if its just the end but if part of the thread broke off as well I would just seal that bolt up with some gasket seal like you mentioned.

I think breaking that was a sign from the subi Gods that the old pick up was going to fall apart during break in lol (always need to be possessive)

But to me it looked like you may have not used the washer on that bolt or like you said something (sealer) was in the hole so it aided in bottoming out that bolt. When i chase a thread I always blow it out with air to be sure the extra material is not just sitting in the bottom of the bolt hole.

Side note: Im hours away from dropping mine back in and crossing my fingers after over a year and a half I put everything back where it belongs lol
Good luck dude! It was definitely gasket, it dried on the bottom of the bolt, all the oil pan bolts had the washers. My 2.5 oil pan will be here tomorrow, found out you can get a lot of Sti/2.5 stuff cheaper on eBay if you buy it from an impreza or something haha. Also got my aem wideband. When I stick my heads on, do my cams need to be in a specific position before I put them on? Or can I put my heads on the. Worry about turning my cams/crank pulley in a specific order.
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Old 02-01-2013, 04:41 PM   #108
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nice build. I would put them in timing so when you torque it down you don't bend a valve or anything just being safe. These are interference motors.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:27 PM   #109
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I would toss it together as close to timed as you can, it is not hard to do just takes more time to put together but saves time on the overall build to time it as you put it together.

Yeah my pile of OEM STi parts is massive, soon ill be selling them like most do just been to focused on finishing the build first.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:10 PM   #110
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I would toss it together as close to timed as you can, it is not hard to do just takes more time to put together but saves time on the overall build to time it as you put it together.

Yeah my pile of OEM STi parts is massive, soon ill be selling them like most do just been to focused on finishing the build first.
I'm trying to get somebody from the local emerald coast Subaru club to come help me set timing because I have no idea how
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:36 PM   #111
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you can easily google up the manual and it provides pictures, but basically you line up the little hash marks on the gears. But a club is your best bet for help, shops don't want to give info they can charge up the a$$ for. I would be happy to help just on the opposite side of the country lol.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:48 PM   #112
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also in the manual it tells you the correct way to turn the cam gears so you dont bend any valves
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:01 PM   #113
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How do I know if my head gasket is on backwards? What determines which side is touching the block vs the heads
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:24 PM   #114
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side does not matter, what matters is that one hole is different front to back. Also a lot of people use copper spray before install.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:36 PM   #115
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side does not matter, what matters is that one hole is different front to back. Also a lot of people use copper spray before install.
I've seen a lot of people who have used it and people who don't, I just don't feel very comfortable spraying it on there.

What do you mean that one hole is different front to back?
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:37 PM   #116
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From what I remember there is a coolent passage on one end but not the other. I googled it once and got a youtube walk through and the guymentioned it. I will double check on my spair case halves or my oem gaskets tonight and let you know tomorrow around this time.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:57 PM   #117
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At the top of the gasket there is a hole for the oil passage just make sure it is covering the oil passage.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:31 PM   #118
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At the top of the gasket there is a hole for the oil passage just make sure it is covering the oil passage.
what he said, I just looked. on the gasket its oval shapped
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Old 02-11-2013, 03:26 AM   #119
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I took my heads off and went back and checked, i had them right the first time, put the heads back on, little over hand tightened the arp bolts on. I'm worried I did not use enough of the lube they supplied as I still have half of it left. I put a smear of it on when installing them into the block half way up the threads, put a thinnnn layer on each side of the washers, and then some of the last threads. Set my cams and hand tightened stuff, still have to take the cams back out and torque the studs but I didn't have time tonight. Put the valve covers on and taped up all holes. I'm soooo close.

I also traded my fp 18g for a fp big 20g td-06h.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:56 AM   #120
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Also can I run an oil pressure gauge without an oil filter sandwich plate?
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:14 AM   #121
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Ya you can use one of the galley plugs on the top of your motor.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:13 PM   #122
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How would I go about doing that ?
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:35 PM   #123
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You get an adapter that fits into the galley plug and has threads to mount an adapter with common threads. Then you run a teflon hose to your sender.

Something like a galley plug adapter --> NPT to -4AN adapter --> -4AN hose --> -4AN adapter to whatever your oil pressure sensor threads are.

There is a top galley plug under the intercooler, in the area near the PCV and the breather that comes up from the crankcase. I think there is another under the accessories (PS pump / alternator area).
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:43 PM   #124
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Damnit damnit damnit, okay I did my whole 30-60-90 on my head studs with my friends digital torque wrench, after I was done I realized it say NM instead of ft-lbs, I took all my nuts off and started again. 30-60-90, reverse 90 degrees, then 180, then retorque, I'll let it sit over night and recheck it.


Could I have messed anything up tightening them to 90nm???
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:33 PM   #125
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Ummmm 90nm is only 65ft/lbs....don't think you messed anything up good catch though. Btw those digital torque wrenches aren't always accurate. Make sure you check it with a known weight @ a known distance -google how to calibrate your torque wrench @ home if you haven't done so yet.
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