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Old 02-14-2013, 12:46 AM   #126
02wrxej208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdmideas View Post
Ummmm 90nm is only 65ft/lbs....don't think you messed anything up good catch though. Btw those digital torque wrenches aren't always accurate. Make sure you check it with a known weight @ a known distance -google how to calibrate your torque wrench @ home if you haven't done so yet.
It's my friends and he calibrated it,( he has a 300whp gt28 wrb BRZ, I wish he would get on nasioc, love that car) anyways

I also just realized that, since my motor is in a confined space, the first side I rolled it over on the engine stand so I did it upside down... I used the correct torque pattern but with the motor upside down, will this affect how it seats or should it be fine. The passenger side I did in only ft lbs, did 15-30-60-90, turn in 6-5-4-3-2-1 order 90 degrees then 6-5-4-3-2-1 180 degrees, then re did 60-90. Does that sound okay??
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:06 PM   #127
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Can anyone tell me if torquing my ARP's down with the head upside will affect how it seats or no?
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:12 PM   #128
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Man you need to explain a little better. ^
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:13 PM   #129
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Do you mean will there be issues torquing the head on with it up side down like the valvetrain facing the ground?
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:23 PM   #130
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Do you mean will there be issues torquing the head on with it up side down like the valvetrain facing the ground?
Sorry, I meant- I have my motor on an engine stand and I rolled it over so that my exhaust ports are facing upwards, I torqued my heads down upside down. Like in the correct order of 1-2-3-4-5-6 technically I guess I did like 2-1-4-3-6-5 or something. Still the same pattern, just not the same bolts
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:21 PM   #131
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Sorry, I meant- I have my motor on an engine stand and I rolled it over so that my exhaust ports are facing upwards, I torqued my heads down upside down. Like in the correct order of 1-2-3-4-5-6 technically I guess I did like 2-1-4-3-6-5 or something. Still the same pattern, just not the same bolts
Gotcha. As long as the head gaskets are around the dowels like they are supposed to be and positioned correctly that's not a big deal at all.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:42 PM   #132
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Gotcha. As long as the head gaskets are around the dowels like they are supposed to be and positioned correctly that's not a big deal at all.
Awesome. Are the heads suppose to be difficult to get over the little protruding dowels? I had to give mine a few love taps with a rubber mallet to make them go over
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:12 PM   #133
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It shouldn't just fall on them. I lube them with engine assembly lube a very small amount and it helps with that but I'm sure your fine.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:13 PM   #134
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I usually just jiggle the head a little and eventually it seats itself on dowels. But it can be tough.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:59 PM   #135
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My passengers side intake cam won't go in all the way... Has a bit of in and out play at the front of the cam and the cam caps have about 1/16" of space between the cap and the head...
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:00 AM   #136
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Edit: my friend is suppose to be bringing me his set of cams from an 02 wrx... If I use his cam will I need to change my shims??
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:12 AM   #137
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You'll def have to check your lash.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:04 AM   #138
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You'll def have to check your lash.
How do I do that?
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:31 AM   #139
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well on newer ej engines the buckets or the round things that are on top of the valve stems have a built in/molded hump in them. you can get different size buckets that change the space/clearance between cam and bucket. therefore changing the clearance/or how much the valve is open closed as well as slightly how long.

on older ej's the buckets have shims.

anyway any changes to the heads require the heads to be measured and adjusted accordingly. its crucial. check out the fsm for pics and help. its not to hard
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:04 PM   #140
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Nice build bro !! keep up
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:54 AM   #141
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I'm going to **** someone's **** up, I don't know how the **** I didn't notice this when I got my heads back. I picked them up from the shop, they went on a pad in the back of my moms CRV, then they set in the corner of my room on soft bamboo floor for 3 months. When I was installing my cams my passengers side intake cam would not sit in the head level. Upon much further inspection the journal has had something dropped on it too chip and dent the journal, beyond repair.

Can I reuse the head gasket and the ARP's? Even after stretch an torque
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:11 AM   #142
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You can reuse the arp's but never reuse a hg.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:43 PM   #143
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I'm going to **** someone's **** up, I don't know how the **** I didn't notice this when I got my heads back. I picked them up from the shop, they went on a pad in the back of my moms CRV, then they set in the corner of my room on soft bamboo floor for 3 months. When I was installing my cams my passengers side intake cam would not sit in the head level. Upon much further inspection the journal has had something dropped on it too chip and dent the journal, beyond repair.
Ugh thats no good brother So when you tq the cam caps down the cam doesnt spin smoothly? If a journal is messed up where you put the cams you have a big issue. You'd have to get a line hone to fix the head which costs about as much as a used head. You do have the cam caps in the right order?..they are numbered.

I'd take some pics and post them

OP: If the head is F-ed I got a spare I could rebuild and get out for ya

Last edited by Paul; 02-19-2013 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:49 PM   #144
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Excellent post. Could easily be installed out of order
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:03 PM   #145
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Excellent post. Could easily be installed out of order
Not out of order. Me and a friend checked it out last night, I'll post pictures in a bit. Idk if the head can be saved. Something was dropped on the center cam journal for my ride side intake, one side is chipped off and the other side has a ridge that interferes with the cam
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:44 PM   #146
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Dang :/ maybe machine shop will work with you on money or something
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:30 PM   #147
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a few updated pics along with pictures of the head damage, can I save the head if the machine shop smooths it all out or will the missing chunk cause oiling problems with the cam???







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Old 02-20-2013, 02:05 PM   #148
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Sad day, but it doesn't look too bad. Might be saveable, looks like its just something that needs a quick clean up hone to remove the extra material and if time is not a big deal some shops will run it with the next line hone they do for cheap. But unless you have machine work already done I would just snag a used head that you can switch your parts over too. I had a few face palm moments on my build (still need to fix an oil leak) but I just chalk them up to a lesson learned, next build I would bet that you will box up your heads until your ready to toss them on. I learn the hard way too but it STICKS!!! Good luck

I cant tell from the pic but if the flat mating surface is no longer flat it will take more then a simple line hone to fix, you will need to have that surface re-flattened as well. In that case I would get a different head seeing the cost will be that much more to repair.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:16 PM   #149
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In those pics they dont look "that" bad but the pictures do kinda suck. I would take them to the machine shop and see if they can deburr and polish them real quick for ya. If the head is worse then that only option would be a line hone. I disagree w/ the guy above saying you could maybe get the line hone for a decent price...and if you did I wouldnt trust the work. Its time consuming and alot of work to do it right and itd suck to spend 200-300+ just to be in the same spot you are in now. If it does need one get another set of heads

Did you say the cams dont spin well when bolted down? Did you ever check you valve lash??
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:44 PM   #150
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In those pics they dont look "that" bad but the pictures do kinda suck. I would take them to the machine shop and see if they can deburr and polish them real quick for ya. If the head is worse then that only option would be a line hone. I disagree w/ the guy above saying you could maybe get the line hone for a decent price...and if you did I wouldnt trust the work. Its time consuming and alot of work to do it right and itd suck to spend 200-300+ just to be in the same spot you are in now. If it does need one get another set of heads

Did you say the cams dont spin well when bolted down? Did you ever check you valve lash??
On the left side, it is burred out so the cam doesn't go in all the way, the other 3 cams sit in just fine. I couldn't bolt it down because the cam caps won't even reach the head
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