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Old 07-24-2012, 10:32 AM   #1
iwantmybrz
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Default Oil Consumption and the BRZ D-S4 Boxer

Oil Consumption and the BRZ D-S4 Boxer

After nearly 2,800 miles of mixed driving, I was surprised to discover that I used one full quart of 0w-20 synthetic motor oil in my 2013 BRZ. I understand that this new, naturally aspirated boxer engine runs at a relatively high 12.5:1 compression ratio, and that the stock oil is a very lightweight 0w-20, but even so, I was surprised by the engine’s consumption. I did heed the owner’s manual recommendation of “driving nicely” and not exceeding 4,000 RPM during the first 1,000 miles and further realize that during the break-in period on some engines, oil consumption can be higher while the rings seat, and so on, but I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience with their D-S4 Boxer?

Thanks,

Cobra Joe
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:58 AM   #2
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Are you sure that the original oil is 0w-20? The oil I drained out of my then-new '08 STI fell out of the drain hole like water. I believe Subaru typically uses a lighter weight break-in oil than they specify for the life of the car.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:06 AM   #3
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Default Original oil in BRZ D-S4 Boxer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Calamity Jesus View Post
Are you sure that the original oil is 0w-20? The oil I drained out of my then-new '08 STI fell out of the drain hole like water. I believe Subaru typically uses a lighter weight break-in oil than they specify for the life of the car.
-
While I'm not sure, after researching the oil to use in the D-S4 topic, I was advised that the stock 0w-20 oil was a lightweight synthetic developed for use in Subie's naturally aspirated boxer, and that it shares many characteristics with break-in oil. I haven't drained mine yet but plan to soon. I'll let you know if I have a similar experience.
-
Thanks,

Cobra Joe
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:42 PM   #4
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I am at 3700 miles and have only lost about 1/2 qt. I'm a little late for my first oil change (3k) but that'll be this weekend.

Break-in makes a big impact on this. That easy break in of <4000rpm is going to cost you more oil later on down the road (literally and figuratively). I'm not saying bounce it off the rev limiter when you get a new car, but it needs to be broken in with some load on it.

I can't confirm if the initial oil fill is the same 0w20, but I can say that when I went to AutoZone, I only had one choice for that weight and it was a Mobil 1, which makes me . Luckily, Subaru is doing my oil changes for a while so I only need it for top-ups.
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Old 07-27-2012, 08:19 PM   #5
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I don't know I beat the s'not out of our FRS and raced it twice, had it on the dyno multiple times, ran it redline from day one, and in 1300 miles of that never used any oil. I changed it then as I'm not a fan of running normal oil change intervals during break-in. If you've ever cut open your oil filter on a new motor after break-in you'll understand why.

Now on a boosted high power build I would never break-in the motor this way as even 5 psi of boost has more power and cylinder pressure than this car. Without adequate cylinder pressure its much harder to seat these hard steel rings. I think the guys that babied this engine too much are going to be the ones who didn't get a fast ring seat and will pay the price, maybe just initially, with more oil consumption.

Also as oil breaks down you'll use much more. So in many cases you'll see no oil consumption in 1000the miles, then 1/2 quart at 2000the miles, and then a full quart between 2-3kthe miles. Just get in a habit of checking that oil at least every other gas fill up.
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Old 07-27-2012, 08:23 PM   #6
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My smart phone isn't so smart and even I can spell better (see it tried to change that to veteran) than it. LOL
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Old 07-27-2012, 08:46 PM   #7
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'babied' my break in and have yet to see ANY oil drop...
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwantmybrz View Post
Oil Consumption and the BRZ D-S4 Boxer

After nearly 2,800 miles of mixed driving, I was surprised to discover that I used one full quart of 0w-20 synthetic motor oil in my 2013 BRZ. I understand that this new, naturally aspirated boxer engine runs at a relatively high 12.5:1 compression ratio, and that the stock oil is a very lightweight 0w-20, but even so, I was surprised by the engine’s consumption. I did heed the owner’s manual recommendation of “driving nicely” and not exceeding 4,000 RPM during the first 1,000 miles and further realize that during the break-in period on some engines, oil consumption can be higher while the rings seat, and so on, but I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience with their D-S4 Boxer?

Thanks,

Cobra Joe
This is what the owners manual says: If your vehicle consumes more than 1.1 qt. (1.0 L, 0.9 Imp. qt.) every 600 miles (1000 km), contact your SUBARU dealer.

Last edited by thunderchicken; 07-28-2012 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderchicken View Post
This is what the owners manual says: If your vehicle consumes more than 1.1 qt. (1.0 L, 0.9 Imp. qt.) every 600 miles (1000 km), contact your SUBARU dealer.
Dang, and I thought the quart per 1200mi allowance on my Impreza was lame.
How much oil is acceptable to YOU to burn in 600 miles?
My impreza, with its 7500mi oc interval, and the factory accepable limits, can "ACCEPTABLY" consume 6.25 quarts per interval. It holds 5.3, so theoretically, i could have to purchase 11.55 quarts of oil to drive 7500 miles. I dont know if the BRZ has the same oil change schedule as the Imp, but if it does, that means it would be factory acceptable to burn 12.5 quarts per cycle!!!!
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:17 PM   #10
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actually, i did the math wrong>>>
it would be more like 16.5
add that to the six quarts to do a change, and thats a theoretical 22.5 quarts of oil you could have to purchase if your rings dont seat. at around $7/quart, thats $157.50 just in oil!
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:19 PM   #11
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BRZ has first oil change @ 3k, then 7.5k, then every 7.5k after that.

A qt. in 600 miles is !
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2point0 View Post
BRZ has first oil change @ 3k, then 7.5k, then every 7.5k after that.

A qt. in 600 miles is !
Subaru service manual says not until 7500.

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Old 08-15-2012, 12:53 AM   #13
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I notices that as well but I got a letter from Subaru saying my 3750 mile maintainence is due but on the brz manual nothing shows up for the 3750 service
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:40 AM   #14
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Seriously- DON'T wait till 30k to check/replace the air filter. idk why they don't reccomend replacement at 15k. Heck- mine was toast after 10k on my 12' Imp.
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:50 PM   #15
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Interesting to see people with the BRZ and Impreza engines having issues with oil consumption. Does anyone know if people experienced the same issue with the new Forester engine as well?
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjohnx View Post
Subaru service manual says not until 7500.
Maybe it's because of the dealer covering my oil changes, but the paperwork said first one at 3k. They already did it and I didn't have to pay, so I'm cool with that.
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911
Interesting to see people with the BRZ and Impreza engines having issues with oil consumption. Does anyone know if people experienced the same issue with the new Forester engine as well?
Yep!

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...lot-oil-96178/

A 5W-20 might be a bit more stable, even more stable than a 5W-30 that usually shears to a 20 weight. You can also try a higher HTHS oil or one with a very low NOACK volatility. Problem is that very few companies post NOACK numbers.

I would be running some Motul 300V or Red Line 0W-20. You don't need no stinkin' API certification! I was surprised to see 10W-40 and 5W-40 in the BRZ Sports Parts STi catalog.
http://www.sti.jp/parts/catalogue/brz_zc6/7.html

-Dennis
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:16 PM   #18
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Although the STI oil is mostly for racing application, it also says it's okay for the street. I don't know enough about oil to know if this practice is acceptable or not just because Japan says it's okay. I don't even know if they keep their vehicles past 100k miles (I heard they usually don't because of a certain law concerning acceptable working conditions of the vehicle after so many miles) to notice any long-term affects of such heavy weight.
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chanomatik View Post
Although the STI oil is mostly for racing application, it also says it's okay for the street. I don't know enough about oil to know if this practice is acceptable or not just because Japan says it's okay. I don't even know if they keep their vehicles past 100k miles (I heard they usually don't because of a certain law concerning acceptable working conditions of the vehicle after so many miles) to notice any long-term affects of such heavy weight.
It's Motul Racing oil so it's likely repackaged 300V. They do have a 0W-20 oil, but none of the 300V line has been submitted for API testing because it has higher levels of moly, zinc, and phosphorus. http://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/628?f
It does have enough detergents/dispersants for street use which is probably the same for the STI oil.

Several years ago, someone here asked SoA if they would be covered under warranty if they ran Red Line 5W-30. SoA said yes, because it was "recommended for" API SM (at the time) applications. Although it's not API "certified". Red Line 5W-30 has an HTHS on par with 40 weights.

Motul does make a 0W-20 street oil as well, but it has a very low High Temp High Shear. Lower than even Mobil1 0W-20.
http://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/49?f

Motul nor Mobil lists NOACK. But Red Line, Amsoil, and Valvoline all list it.
http://valvoline.com/pdf/synpower.pdf
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=124&pcid=21
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlz.aspx

More about NOACK:
Quote:
The evaporation loss is of particular importance in engine lubrication. Where high temperatures occur, portions of an oil can evaporate. Evaporation may contribute to oil consumption in an engine and can lead to a change in the properties of an oil.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/noack.htm

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 08-15-2012 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
The evaporation loss is of particular importance in engine lubrication. Where high temperatures occur, portions of an oil can evaporate. Evaporation may contribute to oil consumption in an engine and can lead to a change in the properties of an oil.
geeee....wonder who has been saying that here for years and years and nobody wants to listen

Quote:
I don't know enough about oil to know.......


to notice any long-term affects of such heavy weight.
5w40 and 10w40 are not 'such heavy weight'

you are FAR more likely to see long term affects of too LIGHT an oil being used

MPG-MPG-MPG
THAT is the reason for the piss spec oil being 'recommended'......they care NOTHING about the engine life other than it making it past warranty....NOTHING
they DO care about lost sales due to lower mpg ratings

and in japan they rarely keep cars past 50k - 60k kilometers
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Old 08-16-2012, 12:41 AM   #21
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Thanks for clearing that up Mr. Scotty, sir, and welcome back.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:55 AM   #22
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I have been selling a fair bit of this on the FT86club.com forums. No one has mentioned oil consumption to me. Perhaps because its a bit thicker than the 20w

http://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/56?f[range]=25&f[viscosity]=43




This is also a good option if you have the money...

http://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/631?f[range]=25&f[viscosity]=33




We pick our BRZ up at the dealer today. At 1000 miles I am going to switch it over to the 5W-30 300V. I will report my experience.
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:49 PM   #23
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Both of those have a high HTHS and high kinematic viscosity (close to a 40 weight). Someone at subarubrzforum just switched to 0W-20 300V and is planning to do uoa's.

-Dennis
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:04 PM   #24
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300V is MAD expensive... I'd want to move OCI to something rather high if I were making the investment in 300V. With the WRX it was simple: it was considered driven under extreme conditions and I changed the oil every 3500 miles with a proven oil. With this new platform using thin-ass oil at long change intervals I want to find a good oil that can go long changes without too much concern.

Though I do have an oil question I've never really bothered to ask; do you really need to change it every few months if you're not driving the mileage under the OCI?

EDIT: Research leads me to believe the Toyota brand 0W-20 (available for ~$65/12qts) is about as good as any of the double-ester oils (for street use) and way cheaper.

Last edited by OrbitalEllipses; 08-16-2012 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses
300V is MAD expensive... I'd want to move OCI to something rather high if I were making the investment in 300V. With the WRX it was simple: it was considered driven under extreme conditions and I changed the oil every 3500 miles with a proven oil. With this new platform using thin-ass oil at long change intervals I want to find a good oil that can go long changes without too much concern.

Though I do have an oil question I've never really bothered to ask; do you really need to change it every few months if you're not driving the mileage under the OCI?

EDIT: Research leads me to believe the Toyota brand 0W-20 (available for ~$65/12qts) is about as good as any of the double-ester oils (for street use) and way cheaper.
If you have a warranty claim where a dealer needs to see oil receipts, you can count on them checking the mileage and time. Whether or not time actually affects the oil you're using is best determined by a uoa with a TBN, oxidation, and nitration.

i'm going to take a wild guess that you haven't actually seen any data of the Toyota Genuine Motor Oil compared to an eater based oil.

-Dennis
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