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Old 07-28-2012, 10:52 AM   #1
spoolinsti05
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Default STFT -25 now +25 (Bad rad cap) rechecking trims soon.

Ok so here's the deal. Car's got an 04 sti ecu in it for now. Jr's fixing my bricked ecu thanks to cobb and there notorious APV1 issue they had with the very first AP.

Moving on, I ported the throttle body not first time doing a throttle body i didn't do by the flap honestly it came out really good don't see that being my issue. But I'll leave that open as an option mistakes are made. But it's hard to say this is it because I've seen people port them more then I did.

I've read ID2000 have had an issue running rich at idle. But Jr did a great job on the tune. It fires right up run's rich till about 10 seconds then levels out but my idle is up and down and afr's jumping from 13-15afr. Short fuel trim -25 so obviously my ecu is pulling fuel but will this cause my IAC code to come on every 250 miles so far I see this code.

Probably doesn't help I found boost leaks after the tune plus added an exhaust and air filter after the tune also. (didn't have them when I got tuned).

Other then that if your on the throttle very lightly it goes rich like 11's but press it down a hair more and it's normal but you end up picking up speed and speeding. So I'm on or off the gas to keep thing's smooth and the break in happy.

To add to this I did a hard reset the other day not on purpose my negative terminal was lose on my grounding kit. So I drive the car I knew it was gonna be running rich until the ecu learned. But man It didn't pass as quick as it did when resetting with a scan tool. I drove 65 miles on the highway. And it was running rich every time I stopped at a light. So today I it started and same thing. I go to the gas station shut it off start it again and then it was back to normal idle's not steady anymore up and down. Hey at least it's not running rich still.

So I'm guessing the ecu is pulling fuel then the base tune keep's trying to add fuel so it's making the idle go up and down and the IAC code trip? If it was a bad IAC then idle would be up and down even before the ecu Learned.
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:10 AM   #2
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I think Jr just need's to pop into the system and make few adjustments at least I hope that's the problem. I probably answered my own question but figured I'd share.

On another note I'm kinda worried about swapping my 05 ecu back in because when we put the 04 in something shorted out for the primary fuel pump control. And Jr just swapped the pins over to the secondary source? Anyone have any idea how I can trace that? Looking at a diagram say's B26, B27 had to be swapped when using 04 sti ecu in 05.

Those pins are B26(fuel pump control unit signal 1/vehicle speed) B27(vehicle speed/fuel pump control unit sig 1) And to add to this my cruise control won't set. This might be related to that no?
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Old 07-28-2012, 02:17 PM   #3
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Curious as to how ur running an 04 ecu in an 05 car?
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Old 07-28-2012, 05:09 PM   #4
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Curious as to how ur running an 04 ecu in an 05 car?

Jr swapped the 6 pin's for me. It'll tell you in the AEM manual.
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:12 PM   #5
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Found this on Romraider posted by : Fastblueufo



Here is a little secret on tuning those injectors. They are never going to idle at stoich. The ecu will be correcting back and forth causing idle to suffer. Idle the car up to 1050 rpm. Change the front 02 sensor scaling so the ecu will think that the afr is stoich. In actuality the afr is going to be in the 12's at I dle. That way the corrections will be. manageable and idle quality won't suffer because of it.
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:39 PM   #6
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Nobody huh?
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:19 PM   #7
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Some more info might help i'll make a video tape of some data. Idle rpm is 1100rpm
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Old 07-31-2012, 01:24 PM   #8
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:16 PM   #9
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There are several special fixes we developed to run ID2000s on the stock ECU. These fixes are not available on open source.

If you have a Cobb Ap2, Then these fixes can be applied and the ID2000s (and other large injectors) will idle at 14.7and run and start great.

If JR is does not know about the fixes, Ask him to contact me and I send a base map and explain what the fixes are.

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Old 07-31-2012, 03:26 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
Found this on Romraider posted by : Fastblueufo



Here is a little secret on tuning those injectors. They are never going to idle at stoich. The ecu will be correcting back and forth causing idle to suffer. Idle the car up to 1050 rpm. Change the front 02 sensor scaling so the ecu will think that the afr is stoich. In actuality the afr is going to be in the 12's at I dle. That way the corrections will be. manageable and idle quality won't suffer because of it.
I posted that because the stock ecu doesn't handle and can't run lower than a set ipw minimum threshold. The correct tables are not defined in open source except on a few limited roms. Get the car to idle at a larger ipw with minimal trim corrections and the car will run fine.

@Clark TURNER, I TRIED TO PM YOU ABOUT FIX FOR OPEN SOURCE BUT YOUR BOX DOESN'T EXCEPT PM'S. PLEASE EMAIL ME AT YAHOO .com if you don't mind. Thanks!
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:33 PM   #11
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I do not use PM's and I do not have or offer any of the complex fixes for open source. Sorry. The fixes for the injectors are not simply minimum pulse settings and they are only available for Cobb Ap2.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:02 PM   #12
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I do not use PM's and I do not have or offer any of the complex fixes for open source. Sorry. The fixes for the injectors are not simply minimum pulse settings and they are only available for Cobb Ap2.


Clark I appreciate the help. I'm sure Jr know's the fixes as he was the one who said I needed a cobb APV2 and we couldn't do open source. After all he had the car idling perfect within 10 minutes. It wasn't till actually driving the car once everything heat cycled I noticed my little problems I needed to fix.

I spoke with crystalimpreza and T1 My injectors didn't have a good enough seal being another issue. I solved all my boost leaks now and I'm just waiting on Jr for round two of my tune.




these upper spacers started to crack and the rail's bracket was pretty much wresting on the TGV. As we know you want that sandwich effect. I added two top feed ford injector seals as spacers and it lifted them up enough to get a better seal.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:11 PM   #13
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Yes. Its very important that the injectors are spaced with washers and have a good seal. Almost nobody gets this right. At idle and low throttle air will be pulled in and that cyl will lean out and misfire. ALWAYS pressure test the system and spray soapy water to verify your injectors are sealed guys!

side note, It looks like that AN fitting on the rail is leaking. You can see the grime built up there. Its typical for you to find no leaks but at full boost when the rail pressure is high the fittings will slightly leak.

C
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Yes. Its very important that the injectors are spaced with washers and have a good seal. Almost nobody gets this right. At idle and low throttle air will be pulled in and that cyl will lean out and misfire. ALWAYS pressure test the system and spray soapy water to verify your injectors are sealed guys!

side note, It looks like that AN fitting on the rail is leaking. You can see the grime built up there. Its typical for you to find no leaks but at full boost when the rail pressure is high the fittings will slightly leak.

C


It was leaking then stopped after I tighten it up. I did the boost pressure test and turned the key on to prime the whole system to see what I got.

as far as the spacers this worked for me.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:34 PM   #15
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MY question now is now that I've fixed these leaks is my short fuel trim gonna stay negative until i go back for a tune?
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:34 PM   #16
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Yes.. If you got tuned with leaks, The car will have to be retuned.


THat looks good! Where did you get those ford spacers? Off what model?
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:26 AM   #17
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Yes.. If you got tuned with leaks, The car will have to be retuned.


THat looks good! Where did you get those ford spacers? Off what model?


From an older 95 mustang v6 top feed.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:06 PM   #18
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Say I was to add a gallon of e85 : 3 of 93oct will my fuel trims come back up so my o2 sensor get's ready?
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:47 PM   #19
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Had bad connection on battery terminals. And rear o2 sensor finally threw po139. will see how the trims are when I get the new sensor in and remove my stock exhaust for the 3". Re tune this weekend.
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:37 AM   #20
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got re tuned one of Jr's friends was nice enough to point out I was missing my tial bov o ring. we put silicone on it since i didnt have the seal on me. Car was running perfect. We turned the boost up to about 23psi I noticed another fuel leak at the line going from the fpr to the tank. car wouldn't rev above 6500 rpm's.

but was running great. so I get home fix my fuel leak do a boost leak test again since boost it higher now sometimes issues can arise. Fixed a leak at the adjuster on my aeromotive FPR with some teflon tape.

after doing these two things above the car now rev's past 6500rpm but goes lean at 6500rpm 12.0 afr on pump gas.

take my wastegate off notice a tear in diaphragm on the lower side only I had pinched it. But I put pressure on it and it appears to work normal and not leak. I put three thin layers of gray rtv in the slit in stages thin bead around the cap after letting the coats on the diaphragm dry. Put it together seem's the same

fuel trims are +25 now on short and +14 long at idle car goes lean at higher rpm. And my rear o2 is still responding slow. when I tape the gas slowly goes from .9v to .8 .5 .3 then slowly back to .9 a lot slower then the front sensor. I'm still on the 04 sti ecu also.

when I stab the throttle it goes lean and runs ruff but smooths out after a few seconds.

Basically I'm guessing I need a re tune again and possibly a rear o2 sensor? fuel pump maybe?

I haven't been revving it past 6k because of the lean issue. motor has over 2k miles on it and I really want to run it threw the gear's soon to see how it does. but this is my buzzkill for the moment.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:36 PM   #21
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Could it be because I was tuned on speed density APv2 with the MAF still in the intake?
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:45 PM   #22
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MAF is not used at all with SD, If you have an AEM or GM intake temp sensor you can remove the MAf sensor from the car.

C
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:08 PM   #23
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I do have an AEM intake temp sensor I'd like to install. And understand the MAF not working anymore. But the stock MAF also read's intake temp as we know.

What I was asking I guess will letting the sensor read ambient temp's witch is all it's really doing in the intake (CAI) cause my car to run lean at full boost WOT about 6k rpms?

car was fine until I fixed fuel leak and boost leak. fuel leak was making the car not able to rev over 6500rpm I'm thinking. Now it will that could also be why it's leaning out no?

If I installed the AEM sensor in my charge pipe would I need to go back for a re tune right away?


I also had an issue with my wastegate diaphragm getting pinched but it wasn't leaking i checked it and even threw some rtv on the torn part from when i pinched it.

from what i gather a boost leak won't throw off the tune on a speed density setup just make it harder to tune and require more fuel then it really should. But my fuel leak was at the return coming off the FPR going to the tank. AN fitting stripped from being dry and taken on and off idk what caused it but i took the hose off and just clamped it to the fitting for now.

Then I took the car out and it revved passed 6500 fine but was lean. so I've been staying under 6k rpm's since. And just taking very little time to think about my problems.

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Old 10-14-2012, 05:08 PM   #24
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I see what you mean now about the sensor placement. I dont think that is the reason for your troubles. I think you fixed alot of issues and now the car need to be retuned.
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:48 PM   #25
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I see what you mean now about the sensor placement. I dont think that is the reason for your troubles. I think you fixed alot of issues and now the car need to be retuned.
I'm thinking this also. kinda ghetto but I double side taped the sensor to my air filter right in the middle since it has a filter area on the face also. It's temp better then in my fender i guess. (I put a short ram 4" back on) reason why I moved the sensor. So loud especially if you don't let the wastegate open
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