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Old 10-14-2012, 10:53 PM   #26
Clark Turner
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ITs never going to run correctly with the sensor installed where you have it. You are better off placing the sensor on the cold side FMIC pipe, TMIC tank (if you have a tmic) or into the turbo inlet pipe or intake to the turbo. For SD to fuel correctly, the ecu needs correct intake temp.

C
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:54 PM   #27
spoolinsti05
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ITs never going to run correctly with the sensor installed where you have it. You are better off placing the sensor on the cold side FMIC pipe, TMIC tank (if you have a tmic) or into the turbo inlet pipe or intake to the turbo. For SD to fuel correctly, the ecu needs correct intake temp.

C
I understand. Also seen that having the sensor on the intake under the hood can heat soak it. Wouldn't having the sensor in a CAI cause it to read cooler then actual intake temps?

I'd like to put the maf in the charge pipe but would prefer the aem sensor as it would be less possible boost leaks.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:04 PM   #28
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There is a table that will make major adjustments based on intake temp in the Cobb SD software. I have no idea how yours is setup as I did not tune it.

That table and the location of the sensor will have a huge impact on how the car runs as temps change from day to night, Winter to summer ect..

Anyone that has every owned a motorcycle knows that the outside temp changes ALOT.

That being said, You can use pre turbo or Post turbo locations for the sensor. You would not want to use underhood temp.

If the sensor is POST turbo and POST intercooler, The SD software can be tuned to adjust for CHARGE air temp. This means if your intercooler is heat soaked and not doing its job, The ECU will adjust. I have seen TMIC cars run 200F on boost because of cheap china intercoolers and overrun little turbos with the sensor installed into the charge air pipe.

Heat soak on the sensor itself is a big concern. I have tuned the SD with the aem into the manifold, Into the charge pipe and with the stock sensor in the maf at the intake. I can make all run well. However, I like the sensor in the charge pipe after the intercooler away from the turbo and away from the radiator fan air.

C
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:20 PM   #29
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There is a table that will make major adjustments based on intake temp in the Cobb SD software. I have no idea how yours is setup as I did not tune it.

That table and the location of the sensor will have a huge impact on how the car runs as temps change from day to night, Winter to summer ect..

Anyone that has every owned a motorcycle knows that the outside temp changes ALOT.

That being said, You can use pre turbo or Post turbo locations for the sensor. You would not want to use underhood temp.

If the sensor is POST turbo and POST intercooler, The SD software can be tuned to adjust for CHARGE air temp. This means if your intercooler is heat soaked and not doing its job, The ECU will adjust. I have seen TMIC cars run 200F on boost because of cheap china intercoolers and overrun little turbos with the sensor installed into the charge air pipe.

Heat soak on the sensor itself is a big concern. I have tuned the SD with the aem into the manifold, Into the charge pipe and with the stock sensor in the maf at the intake. I can make all run well. However, I like the sensor in the charge pipe after the intercooler away from the turbo and away from the radiator fan air.

C

Yea I was also concerned if the stock sensor was to close to the turbo would the turbo create an inaccurate reading to the temp part of the sensor like it would with the air flow part of the sensor?
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:24 PM   #30
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Yes. Depending on the sensor type, The design is so the tip of the sensor is where the measurement comes from, However, Alot of heat on the body will transfer into the sensor and cause a rise in temp. This is why I like the sensor way from heat sources

C
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:25 AM   #31
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Yes. Depending on the sensor type, The design is so the tip of the sensor is where the measurement comes from, However, Alot of heat on the body will transfer into the sensor and cause a rise in temp. This is why I like the sensor way from heat sources

C


Thanks right now I have the stock sensor mounted on the 4" intake deff seem's better then sitting in the bay. I'd like to put the AEM sensor in the charge pipe but I'd assume I'd need Jr to set the ecu up for the different sensor. I
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:59 AM   #32
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The location of the IAT is super important. Itll change a lot for sure. I dont tune Cobb, but I tune lost of Link/Haltech/MS and this is something many people get wrong.

I do have a random question that is related, and how I found this thread. I have a friends car that is on the IDs on Link G4 no problem on pump gas. He needs an inspection ecu for OBD inspection and so I suggested using a stock ecu/cobb AP SD setup just to get by the testing once a year. From this thread it seems there is some sort of trick to make them work correctly? Does the Cobb software allow you to change the min IPW enough? Or do you have to do a hack with the latencies or something?

Any help is appreciated, research saves work
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:19 AM   #33
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I may have answered my own question, I did some research through Cobbs press releases and found they added a table called Fuel Injector Trim Small IPW. I imagine this is what makes ID2000 possible (said in the voice of christopher lloyd in back to the future)

Good luck with your setup!
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:23 PM   #34
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I may have answered my own question, I did some research through Cobbs press releases and found they added a table called Fuel Injector Trim Small IPW. I imagine this is what makes ID2000 possible (said in the voice of christopher lloyd in back to the future)

Good luck with your setup!
Thanks I put my CAI back on and removed the 4" intake. Same results so far I'm gonna drive it around more let the ecu adjust. One thing I noticed the sensor doesn't heat soak anymore.

Still 12.1 afr under boost 21psi in the higher rpm range then I let off. I really want to fix this so i can run it threw the gear's I'm braking traction in 2nd gear with it like this I can only imagine how it will be running perfect.

Cruising is great honestly. So at this point my only issue is lean after a pull or coming to a stop after about half throttle then she smooths out. Run's rich if I'm to lite on the gas pedal with no load. And that's it really. I can live with it as long as it'll pass inspection soon. I cringe when I see 12.1 afr at high rpm high boost.

I know several thing's can cause this. Tune, Fuel pump. Pre wideband leaks. So I'd like to get my walbro 450 in and have Jr re work his magic but this time with a PROPERLY running car.

I just want to add this is in no way Jr's fault or any mistake on his end with the tuning. This is my problem I ran out of money building the car. And I kinda don't wanna spend anymore on it anyways. If it pop's that's another story I'll be waiting another three years to rebuild it. Low mileage FTW LOL

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Old 10-17-2012, 05:10 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattminer View Post
I may have answered my own question, I did some research through Cobbs press releases and found they added a table called Fuel Injector Trim Small IPW. I imagine this is what makes ID2000 possible (said in the voice of christopher lloyd in back to the future)

Good luck with your setup!
I've also seen something like 'Injector Latency Adder (Small IPW)' as well as a min IPW table in the 16 bit cobb SD maps. I'm guessing that would most likely help a lot.

I'm not really familiar with the 32 bit one yet Just starting with the 16 bit one
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:27 PM   #36
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The small IPW is not what I was talking about, but is a nice feature. It allows you to make SMALL steps in INJ LATENCY for fine tuning. ONE click without the SMALL tables would make a gross change in idle fueling.

C
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:04 PM   #37
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Another quick question I'm just going over everything I possibly can this time. I have a Tial 50mm BOV with the silver spring it hold's good under vacuum when selecting my spring though I didn't know that under you should consider decel vacuum when choosing the spring once the car's warm I see 20in of vacuum at idle but on decel I will see around 30. Does that mean I'm possibly leaking under hard decel? not so much leaking I guess it would be more like an intake source.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:40 AM   #38
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The small IPW is not what I was talking about, but is a nice feature. It allows you to make SMALL steps in INJ LATENCY for fine tuning. ONE click without the SMALL tables would make a gross change in idle fueling.

C
Sounds like it With injectors that big you really need a scale that small to adjust it properly.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:44 PM   #39
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Sounds like it With injectors that big you really need a scale that small to adjust it properly.
You can also add some timing and drop the base fuel pressure. No?
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:36 PM   #40
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You could, but its better off doing it the other way, in the tune. Changing base pressure makes it flow less up top as well.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:28 PM   #41
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Yea I'm @42 base with my aeromotive reg. 1.5psi less then stock. But with the walbro 450 and id2000 42 should be fine no?

I got a CEL today for idle air performance. So I'm guessing I have no issues besides needing a re tune.

Also put some regulated air into the bottom port on my wastegate and it will hold pressure if it's steady but not if i stop applying pressure by closing the valve. So I thought maybe the slit on my diaphragm witch i thought i ghetto rigged. So I put my finger over the top port to see if air is getting past the diaphragm nothing. It would push air threw that top port if the diaphragm was bad no?
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:55 PM   #42
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No. you would not add timing. There is only one setting for the timing. You compromise from there. The small IPW just allows you to fine tune the idle. On SD you still need to make sure you have no vac leaks or intake leaks.

It sounds like you made alot of progress on fixing problems, Good job. Once you get them all nailed down, Have your tuner, retune the car. Then it should be good to go.

C
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:01 AM   #43
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No. you would not add timing. There is only one setting for the timing. You compromise from there. The small IPW just allows you to fine tune the idle. On SD you still need to make sure you have no vac leaks or intake leaks.

It sounds like you made alot of progress on fixing problems, Good job. Once you get them all nailed down, Have your tuner, retune the car. Then it should be good to go.

C


Yea right now I'm waiting to make my order for the walbro 450 omni 4 bar and a new diaphragm just to be sure it's not leaking. Because last time I got tuned I had removed the w/g and pinched the diaphragm.

We also hooked the boost controller up and it seen 21psi on the gauge instantly on the lowest boost setting I can't remember what it was last time. I think it was only 17psi but not 100% my w/g spring's are the same .9 bar. I would think the lowest setting on the turbosmart dual stage mbc would be around 16-17psi no?
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:35 PM   #44
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Found three boost leaks today thanks to the soapy water. One small leak at a vacuum line easy fix. Two leaks at the two bolt's that hold the compressor housing to the CHRA. I had to put teflon tape on these two bolt's when I removed the one bolt air was just pissing out like the threads go all the way threw the housing. My final leak was at the coupler by the throttle body I had to trim some of the coupler and re position the clamp!

Thanks for everyones help and opinions.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:02 PM   #45
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Disconnected my MBC and hooked it up to the W/G and I'm seeing a solid 15psi. Doesn't go lean at high rpm it's really rich now I wish I could hook the MBC up and get it to about 18psi until my re tune but doesn't look like that will happen as it jump's to 21 when hooked up.

But that verifies that I'm not overboosting and the lean issue is actually in the tune as corrections need to be made after fixing my several boost leaks. The funny thing is with all the boost leaks the turbo still spooled fairly fast about 4500rpm in 4th.
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Old 10-20-2012, 04:49 PM   #46
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Glad to see the progress! Hopefully everything is fixed now. I'm not sure what boost controller you have, but if you have a Hallman proRX, using the light spring should help you get it up a couple psi for slight testing.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:31 PM   #47
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Glad to see the progress! Hopefully everything is fixed now. I'm not sure what boost controller you have, but if you have a Hallman proRX, using the light spring should help you get it up a couple psi for slight testing.

Thanks, Yea hopefully it's good drives really smooth even though VE is off really only seemed to affect my idle and WOT.

Turbosmart dual stage MBC and I'm pretty sure the switch is wired so switched off is low side and on is high side.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:04 PM   #48
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something has got me a little twisted. So here it is.

When I removed the MBC I said it was running rich but what I forgot to mention was It was like 10.0 AFR till about 6500rpm then went to 10.9

Now shouldn't the lower boost pressure (15psi w/g) opposed to (21psi MBC) witch went from about 11.0 AFR-12.0 [email protected] had fixed that lean spot if say it was in the tune since the lower boost.

Now under boost my fuel pressure also jumps around I think anyways. I'm only using a green snap-on oil pressure test gauge to check my fuel pressure it's steady at idle. and going into boost just jumps when I'm WOT. So I'm thinking fuel filter and possibly the pump to.

my fuel system is setup like this for now.

3 yr old walbro 255
stock fuel lines from tank to engine bay feed and return
stock in tank post pump filter from 2005
aeromotive to feed rails -8 feed (front on rails) -6 return (rear on rails)
No check valves on the feed or return line
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:45 PM   #49
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Adjusting the boost up and or down may or may not increase fuel. It depends on how the SD fuel map is setup and tuned. It can be tuned to run the same AFR from any boost setting or get leaner, or get richer..

C
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:02 PM   #50
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Adjusting the boost up and or down may or may not increase fuel. It depends on how the SD fuel map is setup and tuned. It can be tuned to run the same AFR from any boost setting or get leaner, or get richer..

C

Makes sense. What do you think about my fuel pressure ordeal? Should I try to dampen the gauge? I don't really have the cash to spare on a decent electronic in car gauge so I have this one up on my cowl. I suppose I could buy a cheap liquid filled gauge and extend/tape it to my cowl.
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