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Old 08-16-2012, 04:38 PM   #1
acqui
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Default Simplest route to rebuilding a 2.0?

This is mostly a hypothetical question but it may also apply to me one day should my engine go. I was wondering what the easiest rebuild route would be for an engine with rod damage? Specifically, an engine that could reliably handle 300 whp. Would it be easier to get a shop to rebuild the engine or simply buy something like a cosworth block? I realize that sort of power will also probably being the transmission into more focus for attention, too.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:41 PM   #2
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Buy a 2.5 built block ready to drop in. Have the heads machined to match the 2.5 chamber and get tuned for it.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:54 PM   #3
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Brand new 2.0L short block from Subaru is the simplest route. A hybrid 2.5 build is much more involved.
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun
Brand new 2.0L short block from Subaru is the simplest route. A hybrid 2.5 build is much more involved.
Would you know if the Subaru block has the same internals as the stock one in the 05 WRX? Or would it be better to spend a bit more and get something from a company like Cosworth?
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:23 PM   #5
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I'm having mine rebuilt right now, a 2.2L stroker kit. It's pretty cost effective...
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acqui View Post
Would you know if the Subaru block has the same internals as the stock one in the 05 WRX? Or would it be better to spend a bit more and get something from a company like Cosworth?
It should be similar to the original, but Subaru does update there parts. So it may come with a better crank.

The Cosworth shortblock is a completely different animal with forged internals, but you may or may not need it depending on what you plan to do with the car. If you plan on putting out over 400whp. Then the Cosworth is the way to go. If you plan to be under 350whp. Then stick with OEM. 350whp-400whp is the grey area.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aveera
I'm having mine rebuilt right now, a 2.2L stroker kit. It's pretty cost effective...
How much is that costing you and what power levels, turbo are you running?
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:38 PM   #8
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I spent about $5000. I have Mahle Pistons 2.2L, EJ257 Crankshaft, STI rods, ARP head studs, Gates racing kevlar timing belt, ACL main and rod bearings... I'm running a Tomioka 18g turbo. We are shooting for 330-360 whp on the dyno. it's torquey set up also! expecting the same numbers for torque.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aveera View Post
I spent about $5000. I have Mahle Pistons 2.2L, EJ257 Crankshaft, STI rods, ARP head studs, Gates racing kevlar timing belt, ACL main and rod bearings... I'm running a Tomioka 18g turbo. We are shooting for 330-360 whp on the dyno. it's torquey set up also! expecting the same numbers for torque.
Who built your shortblock. Did you have any headwork done?
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:36 AM   #10
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"Garage Tuning" in Orange, CA built my short block and yes the cost includes head work.
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:38 AM   #11
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LOL! Garage Tuning...the OP is better off with a new SB from Subaru.
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:46 AM   #12
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My buddy had a basic rebuild on his 04 Wrx 3 years ago and his Subie is running strong with no hiccups. I live down the street and have been talking to Kevin, the owner for the last 3 years before having my Subie rebuilt. They are a legitimate shop regardless of former employees and rumors...
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:49 AM   #13
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My buddy had a basic rebuild on his 04 Wrx 3 years ago and his Subie is running strong with no hiccups. I live down the street and have been talking to Kevin, the owner for the last 3 years before having my Subie rebuilt. They are a legitimate shop regardless of former employees and rumors...
It's a hit and miss with them. I personally would leave the gambling to Vegas, but not someone motor/car.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strider327
Buy a 2.5 built block ready to drop in. Have the heads machined to match the 2.5 chamber and get tuned for it.
I agree
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Old 08-18-2012, 04:43 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Who built your shortblock. Did you have any headwork done?
Hey Bishop, Garage Tuning does good work and even warranties built engines for a full year.
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Old 08-18-2012, 05:19 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
Brand new 2.0L short block from Subaru is the simplest route. A hybrid 2.5 build is much more involved.
i agree. this is what i did when my stock rod bearings went. $1400 at the time, fully assembled and ready to go.
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:56 AM   #17
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When I built my hybrid I had the EJ257 block cleaned and honed by a machine shop. The rest I did myself. I didn't open up my 2.0 heads but did use a carbide bit on a cheap rotary tool to round out all sharp edges of the combustion chambers. I used 8.5:1 Manley pistons, 2011 nitrided crank, ACL bearings, STi head gaskets, ARP studs, and Eagle rods. I also dropped off my mostly complete engine at Subaru to have the valves adjusted for just shy of $250. My full build came in a smudge over $2,000. You can take your time, learn how to do it yourself and save a bunch of money. Or pay someone else to do it for much more. I prefer doing my own so I know EVERYTHING that goes into it.

There's no black magic involved when putting an engine together but there is a lot of common sense and reading involved.
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:58 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun
A hybrid 2.5 build is much more involved.
Other than obtaining a 2.5 block, its really not at all.
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:15 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jirv311 View Post
When I built my hybrid I had the EJ257 block cleaned and honed by a machine shop. The rest I did myself. I didn't open up my 2.0 heads but did use a carbide bit on a cheap rotary tool to round out all sharp edges of the combustion chambers. I used 8.5:1 Manley pistons, 2011 nitrided crank, ACL bearings, STi head gaskets, ARP studs, and Eagle rods. I also dropped off my mostly complete engine at Subaru to have the valves adjusted for just shy of $250. My full build came in a smudge over $2,000. You can take your time, learn how to do it yourself and save a bunch of money. Or pay someone else to do it for much more. I prefer doing my own so I know EVERYTHING that goes into it.

There's no black magic involved when putting an engine together but there is a lot of common sense and reading involved.
How did you get a hybrid build for $2,000?! From what i have seen, the internals cost more than that alone.
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:18 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Jirv311 View Post
Other than obtaining a 2.5 block, its really not at all.
You need to also get the combustion camber opened up, due to the higher compression as well as a retune. A new 2.0L SB is a drop in and go deal, no retune. It's the simplest route.
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by avesfan101 View Post
How did you get a hybrid build for $2,000?! From what i have seen, the internals cost more than that alone.
I think I've got about $1,300 in internals. That's crank, rods, pistons, and bearings. You really don't even need to do rods.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
You need to also get the combustion camber opened up, due to the higher compression as well as a retune. A new 2.0L SB is a drop in and go deal, no retune. It's the simplest route.
True, it will need a tune. False, you do not need to open the combustion chambers.
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:23 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Jirv311 View Post
I think I've got about $1,300 in internals. That's crank, rods, pistons, and bearings. You really don't even need to do rods.



True, it will need a tune. False, you do not need to open the combustion chambers.
LOL! False only if you like to run less timing/boost and produce less power in the end.
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:38 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
Brand new 2.0L short block from Subaru is the simplest route. A hybrid 2.5 build is much more involved.
Wouldnt you need a "long block" for a plug and play 2.0L from Subaru? I could be wrong, but the long block is the motor/heads and everything correct? I wonder how much a oem 2.0L is from Subaru


Also if you ordered a new 2.0 (long block-complete motor) what year do they send you 02-05, because I have heard the crank oiling was upgraded in the 2004 wrx 2.0L?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dictoresno View Post
i agree. this is what i did when my stock rod bearings went. $1400 at the time, fully assembled and ready to go.
$1400 for a oem short block for Subaru?




If I had a brand new 2.0L I would PnP a vf39, (with all supporting mods) and just rock that motor and turbo.....would be a fun DD
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:54 PM   #24
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LOL! False only if you like to run less timing/boost and produce less power in the end.
LOL, whatever helps you sleep at night.

You can't automatically say that higher than stock compression leads to less power in the end. That's just a blanket statement.

Last edited by Jirv311; 08-21-2012 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 08-22-2012, 03:55 PM   #25
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LOL, whatever helps you sleep at night.

You can't automatically say that higher than stock compression leads to less power in the end. That's just a blanket statement.
Actually i can, because it's proven while running pump gas that you'll need to reduce your timing/boost in order to run the same setup on a build with higher compression, than ones that's lower/factory. If you were running race gas or e85 with high octane, than the higher compression works in your favor, but not on pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
Wouldnt you need a "long block" for a plug and play 2.0L from Subaru? I could be wrong, but the long block is the motor/heads and everything correct? I wonder how much a oem 2.0L is from Subaru
You don't need to replace the heads if you spin a rod/crank bearing, unless the debris damages the head. Hence short block.
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