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Old 07-28-2012, 03:11 PM   #1
vogun16
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Default Breather line fitting/routing information prease.

Hello knowledgeable gentlemen,

I am looking to remove the pressed in breather ports on my jdm motor and install AN fittings and line. What are you guys running for fittings and line(size/style etc) I searched and came up with scarce answers and figured the fine folks in the Built section would have more experience.

Thanks in advance,
Vaughn

I have threaded on the fittings at the valve covers as seen below (2 per cover since it is an ej207). How are people routing this with catch cans for a rotated turbo setup?
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Last edited by vogun16; 12-31-2012 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 07-28-2012, 03:28 PM   #2
aboothman
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BRED was putting something together for the PCV but I am not sure if anyone has made anything for the head breathers yet. I am sure somebody has somewhere...
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Old 07-28-2012, 03:32 PM   #3
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I know p&l makes them for the removable breathers on the wrx but nothing off the shelf for sti valve covers. I have problem taking the insets out and threading in fittings, just wondering what sizes are best since I'm new to this.
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Old 07-28-2012, 03:42 PM   #4
aboothman
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Could probably get something made with an interference fit, ending in -6AN, so it is similar to OEM. Gonna look into it right now actually
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:27 PM   #5
Flat 4 Motorsport
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are you going to have the machine shop weld or tap the block for the fittings?

That will give me more of an idea on how much room you have to work with, also are you running a stock location turbo or rotated?

what intake manifold?

are you just doing it for looks?

It's a PITA to change fittings especially if they are AN and not barbed because you have very little room to work with all the accessories and what not bolted to the longblock in the car.

-Phil
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:33 PM   #6
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I have the motor at a machine shop and am trying to get this handled before it makes it into the car. It is running a regular jdm manifold and stock location turbo for the time being. It would be nice to tap the pcv port on the block to run a similar setup on all of the ports for the bling/security factor.
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:36 PM   #7
alcoolaid
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I'd run at least -8 on the heads. Is this all going to a catch can?
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:56 PM   #8
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Yes, it is being routed to a dual or custom catch can.
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Old 07-31-2012, 01:23 PM   #9
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I welded fittings on the valve cover and machined one to press into the block.

I dont have any pics of the block fitting at the moment but it was just a -12 to -12 union that we turned one end down to press in. Could have just as easily done this for the heads as well.



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Old 07-31-2012, 01:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty5788 View Post
I welded fittings on the valve cover and machined one to press into the block.

I dont have any pics of the block fitting at the moment but it was just a -12 to -12 union that we turned one end down to press in. Could have just as easily done this for the heads as well.




That looks great, nice job!

OP stick with the same I.D. as whats on the block and heads, I believe the smaller port is -6 and the larger one is -8 for the heads and the PCV port on the crank case is -12
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat 4 Motorsport View Post
That looks great, nice job!

OP stick with the same I.D. as whats on the block and heads, I believe the smaller port is -6 and the larger one is -8 for the heads and the PCV port on the crank case is -12
Thanks!

Those are the correct sizes IIRC, it has been a while since I got them but just measure the stock ones and use the same size. The -12 for the case breather is a tight fit, welding one there would have been imposible so the only option is to thread it or press fit it like I did. You could probably thread a 1/2NPT to -12AN fitting in there but the drill and tap for that large of a hole to use one time is pretty damn expensive espically if you have access to a lathe.

If I have time and remember I will post pictures of that one but like someone mentioned already, Matt at Ball racing was working on some and he has pics posted in a thread somewhere on here.

You just start with a fitting like this and turn one end down, be sure to make it a little larger than the steel fitting that came out since odds are your new fitting is Aluminum and you will want more interfearance than you would with the steel fitting.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/660380/10002/-1

Oh and this is how I got them out, once you get them spinning they slide right out, the crank case one needed a bit of pressure from the back side to help it get started:





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Old 11-25-2012, 11:00 PM   #12
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Bump! I would like to see completed setups so that I may judge mine against an established build.
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:39 PM   #13
vogun16
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I ended up threading in the AN fittings for the valve covers, now I am kind of perplexed on how to route the breather lines for my ej207 rotated setup.
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:48 PM   #14
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Bump!
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:00 AM   #15
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I wish I would have thought of removing the head breathers sooner on my STi. I guess I'll have to do it when I pull the motor now.
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