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Old 05-30-2013, 08:00 AM   #9451
cmacrazgrl
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I'm just under 900 miles on my break-in having my car 3 weeks as of yesterday. I've only hit 4K RPM twice getting onto the interstate. Otherwise its been shift at 3K.
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:13 AM   #9452
turbogc8
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I'm so happy they put full frame doors on these cars. They shut as nice as my wife's BMW. No more windows slapping around. Lol
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:19 AM   #9453
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This is a good read. Not telling anyone they should break in the motor this way, but if you understand the dynamics of an engine, it makes a lot of sense
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:27 AM   #9454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbogc8 View Post
Still a cell shot, but a better one. (Waiting to upload photos from the good camera)
Yowza, that looks good. Confirms my color selection as the right pick for me. What size Inno deflector fits the crossbars?
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:36 AM   #9455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbogc8 View Post
This is a good read. Not telling anyone they should break in the motor this way, but if you understand the dynamics of an engine, it makes a lot of sense
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Opening a can of worms :-D
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:02 AM   #9456
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The inno fairing is a size medium, fits perfectly with the factory cross bars. And it doesn't affect moonroof operation at all.

Like i said Rex, I'm not saying that anyone should use this method, just thought it was a good read. Can't wait for you to get your car and hear your reaction to that first drive.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:02 AM   #9457
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The inno fairing is a size medium, fits perfectly with the factory cross bars. And it doesn't affect moonroof operation at all.

Like i said Rex, I'm not saying that anyone should use this method, just thought it was a good read. Can't wait for you to get your car and hear your reaction to that first drive.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:26 AM   #9458
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somebody call mythbusters. I've got until June 10th to figure out this whole engine break in argument.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:49 AM   #9459
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^best idea today.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:56 AM   #9460
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My break in. If you don't agree, I don't really care. Just another perspective.

1. Drive car off the lot varying load and engine braking. Pull through gears 1-5 increasing throttle from 20%-80% progressively up to 5 k, engine brake back down...for 30 miles. Let car cool down to ambient temp, repeat one more time.

2. Drive normally shifting under 4k as much as possible,lots of engine braking, no cruise control. All of this til 1k

I'm stage one at 1100 miles, haven't lost a drop of oil so time will really tell since it is low mileage. I feel this is a safe medium between a hard and light break in. I'm no engineer but it makes sense to me to introduce a little bit of boost/higher rpms if that is what the car will be doing somewhat frequently. You don't walk to get good at sprinting.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:24 AM   #9461
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That is exactly how I'm doing it. If you don't introduce enough crankcase pressure in the first 20 miles or so, Then the rings don't have enough pressure behind them to seat against the cylinder walls. Well said luvin.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:40 AM   #9462
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Agreed. Thanks gc8
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:40 AM   #9463
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Wow, subaru wants me to break my engine by giving me bad information Glad I read this.

My car has, 500 miles on it, is it too late too break it in this new and better way?
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:51 AM   #9464
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I sense a tinge of sarcasm there Hal...I really hope no one here is ignorant to the fact that the drivers at the port drive the **** out of these cars...and no one was saying you should break it in this way. Just differing information.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:55 AM   #9465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RexHunter View Post
Opening a can of worms :-D
I love worms. They're brain food.
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:58 AM   #9466
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Yes, I was being a wise guy. I've always been on the conservative side. Hey, maybe the guys at the port already ready did the hard break in for me.
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:14 AM   #9467
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There is obviously nothing wrong with a "soft" break in. And if your a conservative person like you say you are than performing a soft break in is going to work best for you. There are always two sides to the coin. And when it really comes down to it, the differences these two methods affect the motor are prob minimal.
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:13 PM   #9468
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Forgot who I found this from but its somewhere on the forum: Plan on using this myself

So what do I recommend for a break-in procedure?

First, cater to the cam shaft and the bearings, piston rings and cylinder walls in the engine. Start the car and hold the engine at a slightly fast idle (about 1500 -2000 rpm), let the engine run at this fast idle with slight variations is speed for about 30 minutes or until the engine is at full operating temperature for a minimum of 10 minutes.

Second, begin the bedding in process for the clutch, brakes, and the break-in process for the gears and piston rings/cylinder walls.

Take the car for a short drive (drive it home). Make a point to not slip the clutch too much, or ride the brakes too much, accelerate briskly up to the recommended rpm limit the manufacture gives in the break in guidelines, but be sure to give plenty of time between the periods of brisk acceleration for the engine to cool any hot spots. After you have several minutes of driving on the car, in a safe location, make some moderately hard stops to begin the bedding process on the brakes, but space them well apart so you never smell hot brakes. By now you should have a feel for the clutch, make a couple moderately hard accelerations which load the clutch a bit, again with plenty of time to cool. By now you should be home. Park the car someplace where you will be able to see any drips, and let it cool completely.

After the car has cooled down, check all your fluids to be sure all your levels are good. Look under the car and check for drips.
Take the time to give the car a good visual inspection. Think like a pilot giving a plane a pre-flight. Grab stuff and try to shake it, check tire pressures, oil levels, get out the owner’s manual and learn where the transmission fill is, where the brake master cylinder is, where the fuse boxes are, how to turn on the 4 way flashers etc.

Now you’re ready for phase 2. Take the car for another drive, where you have a lot of stop and go driving. Find a residential neighborhood that has lots of stop signs and learn the feel of the clutch. When conditions are safe, make a few brisk accelerations to seat the rings and bed in the clutch, then pull your speed down briskly (about 50% effort) with the brakes to help bed in the brake pads. Again be sure to give the car plenty of time to cool with easy "grandma driving" between these bursts. (be careful your brakes will not grab at full strength until the bedding process is complete - don't put yourself in an emergency must stop situation !!)

Find a low traffic highway and make a max effort acceleration up the on ramp to highway speed, revving the engine to the max rpm listed in the manufactures guide lines in each gear (let’s not go 140 mph here guys :blink: just 1-4 the gear ). cruise for a mile or two, to let everything cool and then find a safe place to make a 75% effort stop or two. Do this several times then take it home and let the car cool overnight. Follow this pattern for a couple days, gradually increasing the level of effort on brakes, clutch and acceleration until you have about 200-300 miles on the car. At this point you should be able to make max effort stops and accelerations, but still limit your engine rpm to the max rpm recommendation by the manufacture.

From this point on, drive the car hard (safely!!) and every 100 miles or so, raise your engine rpm limit by 100-200 rpm. By this time you can make long highway trips with no problem, just avoid running on cruise control for extended periods of time. If you do use cruise control, periodically vary both speed setting and/or alternate between 4 tie and 5th gear.

Switch to a quality synthetic oil on your first oil change, and by the time you’re at about 3000 miles you should have finished all the break in that requires special precautions. The engine will continue to gain power for the first 5 - 10 thousand miles as it slowly loosens up.

As an example of how these principles came about, here are some other examples of break in guide lines.

As far as manufactures recommending it, they have, but only to that fraction of their customer base that are likely to understand it. Several manufactures have specifically recommended this sort of high load, with cool down to racers.
The one I'm familiar with is Chrysler Corp when they introduced the Street hemi.

For their racing buyers they told them to follow the following sequence to break in their race engines for drag racing.

Start them up and let them idle at a fast idle 1500 rpm or so for 20 minutes or so. ( most cam shaft manufactures recommend the same for new cam shafts ) Then after checking for leaks etc. let the engine cool down completely.

Next make runs at 1/4 throttle , 1/2 throttle, and 3/4 throttle, each followed by a full cool down. Make a final full throttle pass then go racing.

Carol Smith one of the most respected racing engineers in the business, goes to great length in his book "Tune to Win", and then bothers to repeat the same advice in a following book about how important this sort of periodic high load, followed by cool down is to proper break in of differential gear sets.

Several major engine builders describe how they dyne break-in an engine and they also use the same pattern. 30 minutes or so of moderate fast idle to warm things up, followed by brief runs up through the engines rpm range under gradually increasing load, followed by cool down cycles.


Mark Donohue the famous race driver describes how he broke-in race engines after rebuilding them in his book "Unfair Advantage". He liked to take the newly rebuilt engine and let it run at a fast idle for an hour or so, with a garden hose running in the cooling system to keep it cool. Then he would put it back in his car and take it to the track. By the time he finished his tuning laps and time trials for qualification, the engine was ready to race.

Graham Bell author of the book "Four Stroke Performance Tuning" gives an example of a dyno run in process he uses on all his race and rally engines. To make it universal I converted the numbers to % of maximum torque.

CODE


rpm Torque min
3500 25% 10
4000 33% 30
4500 45% 30
5000 56% 30
5500 66% 30
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:16 PM   #9469
HAL1
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Am I stupid or missing something? I'm to get in my car and hold the accelerator at 1500-2000 rpm for 30 minutes?
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:33 PM   #9470
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Am I stupid or missing something? I'm to get in my car and hold the accelerator at 1500-2000 rpm for 30 minutes?
lol yeah I'm going to follow this to a reasonable degree. I found this in one of the many break in forums on here. Basically let the thing warm up
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:41 PM   #9471
HAL1
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I realized that I may have been mis interpreting this. It's not that the book recommended soft break in is bad, but rather that this more aggressive break in yields a more powerful engine.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:17 PM   #9472
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That is the general theory. More or less break it in the same way you plan on driving the vehicle on a daily basis.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:22 PM   #9473
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Originally Posted by turbogc8 View Post
That is the general theory. More or less break it in the same way you plan on driving the vehicle on a daily basis.
Exactly, why run marathons, when you are training to beat Usain Bolt. lol
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:32 PM   #9474
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Because I've been slacking on my graduation pic
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:00 PM   #9475
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Because I've been slacking on my graduation pic
Those some new rims? PBP is so mysterious, it can never make up its mind on what color it wants to be. Looks black/grey/blue depending on picture or sun lol congrats
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