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Old 08-11-2012, 09:52 PM   #1
DohcEj22e
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Hello everyone! I own a fairly nice & almost totally stock 1998 Subaru Legacy GT Limited & late last year, my 25D blew up. The cause of the destruction was due to the previous owner having overheated the engine numerous times before having the head gaskets replaced. The damage to the main bearings had already been done at that point (Rod #3 punched a hole through the block as a result.)







I recently obtained a 22E & decided to make another DOHC version since the block I got had wiring that was not compatible to my car. This is my second time making one of these & so far, it turned out good. I still have yet to start it due to waiting on tomorrow for my paycheck, then I'll be able to buy the fluids needed to start it up. For now, I'm gonna' feed your eyes with some pictures. (People, whenever you work on engines, keep your bolts/nuts/screws together in bags (label the bags) so that they don't get lost & keep in mind that it is imperative that they go back EXACTLY WHERE THEY CAME FROM.)
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:53 PM   #2
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When I first got it, it looked like this...


After a few minutes of examining it closely, I began to take it apart.


This engine was said to be a 1995. This pic confirms it.


After more time, I removed the intake & all of the smaller things bolted or screwed to the engine & began to remove the cylinder heads. (Follow the service manual removal procedures for the intake & cylinder heads.)


These must be the old style head gaskets...


I like the way that my new ones look a lot better.


For those of you wondering if the 22E/25D intakes can be swapped, no, they cannot. They have completely different bolt patterns. If you use the 25D heads, you must use the 25D intake & wiring harness. (25D bolt pattern below).

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Old 08-11-2012, 09:53 PM   #3
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The older style & newer style timing belt tensioners & their back plates are completely different. If you use the new style, you must use the plate that it bolts into. (Replace the tensioner if it is used).



There were changes to the EJ22E during it's run from the cylinder heads to the piston crowns. The top is the 1995 piston crown & the bottom is the 1998 piston crown.



I believe that it doesn't hurt to have an 11mm oil pump for this kind of frankenstein since it will be run hard a few times once I break it in. Btw, the crank gear slides right out with no difficulty. If you do experience a little resistance, it's most likely corrosion & you'll have to put some penetration oil on it. Be patient if you have to do that. Btw, 22E & 25D crank & cam sensors are the same.


On our autos, there are 4 12mm bolts holding the flexplate on the torque converter. DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE CONVERTER. Turn the crank to access the 4 bolts & remove them (turn them counter clockwise).



Btw, DO NOT FORGET to replace the seals when you have everything apart. This goes for the rear main seal & resealing the oil separator behind the flywheel/flexplate. If you have an older EJ, it most likely has the plastic cover. Replace it with the upgraded metal cover.


I have an intake manifold spacer on my frankenstein. To install one in general, you have to cut the EGR valve pipe behind the left head & extend it a little more than the length of the spacer.


This next pic is a demonstration of how 22E MLS gaskets look on the 25D heads.
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:55 PM   #4
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If you put together a DOHC EJ22E, assemble it as you would a 25D & use the 25D head bolts (22E bolts are too long), oil dipstick (25D dipstick has a higher mounting point), & black coolant pipe (22E pipe will NOT fit around the left DOHC head.)



Follow the factory service manual for the 25D to reassemble everything & make sure bolts & screws go back in their exact same spot. The end result will look just like a 25D.


If there are any questions, I'll answer them to the best I can. Btw, the final compression ratio I calculated with this particular engine was 8.8:1, which should be somewhat decent until I add a turbocharging kit. To anyone wondering if our pistons come up over the deck, yes, they do.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:37 AM   #5
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Log: (8-6-12)
I've put 104 miles on the DOHC EJ22E so far & logged the mpg @ 30.3 on the highway going 68mph w/the engine turning @ 2800rpm! City mpg is around 23-24. It will go to 26 if I feather it around town. Amazing. It's only weakness that I've been able to run into so far is extremely steep hills.*It has good pulling power on the highway for what it is. It's a little lazy from 0-20mph but afterwards, keeps up with traffic effortlessly.

Log: (8-7-12)
I found that the engine revs up QUICK from 2500 to almost 4000 rpm while passing. It kind of surprised me so now I have to be a lot more sensitive with my foot. There are no coolant leaks nor is there overheating or oil leaking. I showed a few Subie guys the 22E & they couldn't believe it. Apparently, the SOHC 2.2 head on 2.5 block swap is a lot more popular in the streets & it's very easy to see why (low-end TQ is better for heavy city traffic.) The car runs fine on 87 octane & I got 30.1 today on the highway. The temps range from 185 to 205 degrees F & my thermostat needle started working again out of the blue. It gets pretty hot under the hood but I suspect that it's because my UEL manifold is causing the intense heat. I'm going to have to wrap it up. I also got a CEL for the MAP sensor, which will be replaced. So far, so good. I'll keep logging in & hopefully make a video of it when I can.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:44 AM   #6
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Low end TQ is better on a SOHC 22E but a DOHC 22E has more power in the midrange rpms. The DOHC heads move a lot more air & you can feel that as you pass 3K rpm. I added phenolic intake spacers to help a little more with the intake but those heads have a lot of room for improvement. I'm pretty sure that if the intake manifold & intake side of the heads were ground away & port matched to match the intake manifold gasket, there will definitely be a small power gain.

As for the "personality" of this engine, the DOHC heads take the power & TQ of the EJ22E & push it up higher in the RPM range. You lose power & TQ from the 25D block but you gain it in that same midrange area where the SOHC 22E is lacking (SOHC 22E/2 still have better low-end TQ.) The 97-98 22Es & the phase 2 222 have even better N/A power due to their higher compression pistons (the latter of which i used for my first DOHC EJ22 experiment.) I do it because 1; 25D blocks usually have been overheated from head gasket leaking, which shortens the life of the internal bearings dramatically, 2; They're a lot more expensive than a 22E will ever be, & 3; finding a GOOD one that hasn't overheatead is hard as opposed to the 22E, which there are still more of & has been proven to be a workhorse. If you could find a 25D that has not overheated, then it will equal the 22E in reliability.

As for the transmission, it shifts just about flawlessly, even after having not been used for almost a whole year. The 4.44 FGR really helps for this engine on the hilly streets of Rockville & w/acceleration. Now onto the final compression ratio, which is mostly determined by the thickness of the head gasket & head CCs. The 97-99 DOHC heads have 46 CCs & have a "clover" design like what's on the 205 heads, which I personally think is best for this kind of hybrid. I have also been recently informed that these are identical to the 20G heads.

As you can tell from my picture, when I overlap the gasket on the head, there are no sealing issues. The chamber is completely enclosed in the bore of the gasket. 1996 EJ25D Hydraulic Heads (pair) - Ultimate Subaru Message Board <- This here shows that the 25D heads of 1996 are cut to match the bore of the 99.5mm block, which means that they cannot be used on any 2.2L EJ (22E/T/2) but there are Japanese versions of these heads that can be used as they are for the 2.0. However, if you used the 96 heads on the 97-99 25D blocks, compression ratio should be reduced & would make for a turbo friendly block (depending on the thickness of MLS head gaskets used). Likewise, using 97-99 heads on a 96 block should raise the compression ratio (again, depending on head gasket thickness).

<- The DOHC EJ22E running as smooth as can be. No head gasket leaks. No popped rods. Nothing. Just excellent heads on an excellent block. Subaru should have made these things from the factory back in those days (w/turbo of course!)

Completely unrelated note: I have gotten this insane urge to grind away my intake ports on the heads & intake manifold to match the gasket exactly. Knowing how much material can be shaved away is starting to dig a hole in my brain...
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:48 AM   #7
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Log: (8-17-12)
I drove 54 miles today & plugged my scanner up to the OBDII port to have it consistently record 30.5mpg highway & 24-26mpg in mixed street driving. The car is definitely a little lazy below 2500-3000rpms but nothing that really bothers me. I took it through the winding roads in Willington & went a little hard on it. After I install the "Sport" mode, the transmission will take better advantage of the engine's TQ.

This engine has a totally different & very enjoyable personality when you keep it above 3Krpms & toss it around a bit. The power is there & its always available, never dropping as long as my foot is in command. The only things the kept me from really putting it to work are the tires (they feel like mush) & my worn struts/shocks (coilovers sound great about now).

I've noticed that the oil is very clean when I pulled the dipstick, which means that the blue Subie filter is doing its job well. I was always told that the blue filters were no good & always stuck with Mobil 1 but the blue filters are even better than that, I think. I'll be sticking with it from now on. I really want to see the true potential of this particular engine & though decent it may be, I will be saving up for turbo money.

Night:

The 22E running as smooth as can be. I am actually eager to make another one of these engines now that I know they're actually pretty easy to build. My next GT (wagon) will have one for sure since they make excellent cruisers. For my future Outback or SUS, I want to do a 22E head swap (w/port work) on a 251/253 block.
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Old 08-25-2012, 03:33 PM   #8
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Props to you man! This is exactly what I want to do with my 95 ej22. So you didn't have to mod the 2.5 heads at all just slap them on and go?
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:33 PM   #9
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No modification needed. Just bolt on all of the 25D parts to the 22E & go. No need to worry about crank/cam gear sensors since they are exactly the same.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:59 AM   #10
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Finally got around to installing "Power Mode" & "FWD Mode", the latter of which I'll probably never use unless I get a flat. I was a bit skeptical of the "PM" mod until I installed the switch, grounded it, & turned it on. The end result is EXACTLY what this engine needed. It downshifts when I ease on the pedal, it holds the shift longer (to redline if I let it), it shifts more aggressively, & it makes it easier to keep the engine in start of its powerband. It feels a lot more willing to move about in city traffic, which is very good. On the highway, I have to turn the PM off so that it can switch gears faster & save a little gasoline (scan tool reported 2.3mpg lost using PM on the highway).

Remove this first screw in the lower dash...


Then this screw & pull the lower dash out.


The TCU is in the back near the firewall. It has 2 10mm bolts holding it onto a bracket. Unbolt it...


The 20 pin connector will be easy to spot. The you will notice the 4th pin open. The pin is a constant power feed. The idea here is to ground it.


I pulled the connector out because I found it easy to work with this way...


Wire to hook into the 4th pin & then from that to the switch, then to a ground...


I ran into a bit of frustration trying to put the wire in the connector & have it just stay there, so a broke a piece of metal off a wire terminal end, ground away some metal, & smashed the remaining piece of terminal to make my pin. It's a bit crude bit it's all I had near me...


The red wire clamped down onto the tiny metal piece & pinned in. I made sure I could not pull it out with light pulls...


The switches for the project. I wanted to have lighted switched for the project but I've been told that the extra power may interfere with the operation of the switches/modules so I sent my switches back & got these instead...


I slowed down on taking photos at this point since I got into it but I reused the fuse box for the FWD Mode to be on the safe side of things. It now has a 10A fuse in it at all times...


Okay, I had officially stopped taking photos by this point & ended up wiring pin 4 of the TCU 20 pin connector to its switch then grounding that switch in the engine bay. For the FWD switch, I just used the rest of the wiring I had to extend & connect to the wires I had cut the FWD fuse box from.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:59 AM   #11
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My last pic is of the completed project of "Power mode" & "FWD mode", the FWD switch being on the top & the "Power" switch on the bottom.
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:19 PM   #12
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anyway we can sticky this ? I see alot of questions about this kind of swap on every Subaru Forum known to man.

Also thanks for doing this build man it will be a great resource for years to come. ( not to mention make a great base for a cheap turbo build)

btw how much did everything for the engine Build cost you ?
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:46 AM   #13
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Hahaha, no problem!
I had done this once before w/a phase 2 EJ22 & I just like the personality & mpgs the "EJ22D" combo can produce.
In terms of actual power, it's in that grey area between the 22E & the 25D.
I had also noticed that many questions were asked about putting DOHC heads on an EJ22 but no pics had been shown though this had been done but others with no real substantial evidence.
It makes for an incredible turbo build & the crank/ rods in my particular engine are forged from the factory (several other sources claim that the phase 1 22E/T crank/rods are the same) & if that is true, then my car will run for quite some time until I get ready to rebuild it.

As for the budget, I'll have to look up my email receipts & get back to you on that. It may take me a bit.
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:53 PM   #14
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That is fine...the only other person that i heard of doing the swap on this forum was 69subaru360 where he used a ej22 block to fix a blown WRX motor. he used the WRX heads w/ the ej22 block and it was fine...

but this is still awesome for those who would like to do a budget engine build. or a budget turbo motor build ...or if you really want your car to have a twin cam head.

sooo yeah get back to us on the costs
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:32 PM   #15
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Costs:

Water Pump w/Timing Belt: $75
Head Gasket Set w/seals & bolts: $75 (I threw away the crappy head gaskets).
Tomei Timing Belt Guide: $50
Grimmspeed Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacers: $71
Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gasket: $10 (Needed 2 gaskets for the spacer).
Oil Separator Plate: $26
11mm STi Oil Pump: $130
MSD Ignition Coil: $80 (Haven't installed that yet...).
Transmission Cooler: $50 (Haven't installed that yet...).
Blue Subaru Oil Filter: $15
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug: $10 (You REALLY WANT this after rebuilding an engine).
Victor Reinz MLS Head Gaskets: $142 (These are EXCELLENT so far).
EJ22E w/100Kmi: $400 (I sold the SOHC heads & got back $50).
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:45 PM   #16
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:19 AM   #17
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thats not a bad set up for a reliable and boostable engine build. the price isn't half bad either. funny how it sounds like my old wrx.
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:18 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkBumperBandit
thats not a bad set up for a reliable and boostable engine build. the price isn't half bad either. funny how it sounds like my old wrx.
The exhaust is a WRX N1 unit & the EJ22D is essentially an over-bored EJ20D (same crank). I think this is why it sounds like one
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:58 AM   #19
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The updates are as follows.
The car was down due to me attempting to battle an oil leak & the timing belt bracket bolt stripping upon start up.
I didn't know I had saved the old style bracket, tensioner w/wheel but when I discovered it, I promptly put it on & now the car runs.
I'm probably just going to buy a brand new bracket & tensioner when I have the luxury to do so.
The mods are still on schedule.
It will receive a lightweight crank pulley & upgraded brake rotors w/heavy duty pads & maybe a little more if I can pull together enough money by that time.
Little by little, I'll be buying "additions" for it

Here are some photos from this morning at the cemetery:







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Old 10-18-2012, 12:49 PM   #20
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Great to see that the car is still doing well! Definitely nice to see the 22D as an option, if the 25 in my 98 ever grenades.

The EJ22 has a forged bottom end? That's awesome!
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElTauro View Post
Great to see that the car is still doing well! Definitely nice to see the 22D as an option, if the 25 in my 98 ever grenades.

The EJ22 has a forged bottom end? That's awesome!
Phase 1 EJ22Es share forged rods & cranks w/EJ22Ts.
Probably bearings too.
They are very tough, even in N/A form.
Compared to the 25D, they have thicker rods & thicker cylinder walls, which aren't as prone to cylinder flex.
On the flipside, 25Ds can & will be just as reliable as 22Es if they are maintained & taken care of properly.
You can also do more w/25D blocks, like add 22E heads to get higher compression & make more power.
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:29 PM   #22
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Update:


Installed MSD coil & now the car gets 28city/35hwy almost consistently @ the speed limits.
However, if I go faster than 70mpg, the car will drop down to about 30 or less.
The "EJ22D", as I call it, has almost 5k miles on it so far & is running well & smooth.

Specs on the "EJ22D":
Engine: 2212cc
Bore: 97mm
Stroke: 75mm
Head Gasket: 0.054in (Victor Reinz)
Piston Dish: -12cc
Deck Height: -0.012
Head Chamber: 46.6cc

The end compression ratio is close to, if not 9.3:1.
As a cruiser, the EJ22 w/DOHC heads is fantastic.
When on the highway, the power is there when you need it & you can get in & out of it in a hurry provided that you hung around 2800rpm+ @ the speed limit, which you WILL be doing w/a 4.44 fgr.
The engine LOVES to rev & it is best when it's being driven hard, although I refrain from this to reserve gasoline.
It's one of those engines that rewards you very well when you try squeezing out the power it has.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:34 PM   #23
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Update:

There are no misfires anymore, no CELs
The knock sensor no longer goes off erratically.
There are was loose spark plug wire & I reconnected it, started the car again, & all is well.
Had to get a wheel bearing replaced not too long ago.
The car has reached 170K & the EJ22 at 105K+.
It hasn't given me any serious issues since I installed the new hybrid & has been a loyal sweetheart to me for the most part.

If or when I get rid of this car, I will really miss it but that won't be for a long while.
In fact, I may never get rid of it & end up getting another GT (so I can retrofit it to look like a Limited) or I may get an Outback.
Still gotta' modify it quite a bit before that point!
Power comes on smoothly & the engine never feels overwhelmed or stressed out when accelerating or passing someone.

The transmission shifts as smoothly as ever, even with the 1-2 kick, which only happens in the cold or when I first start driving.
I think I'm really going to hold off on the turbo build & focus my efforts all around the car.
I feel like this could be even more fun than my first BD was.
The EJ22D still runs as smooth as ever & makes only the intake/exhaust sounds as expected of aftermarket parts.

Last edited by DohcEj22e; 12-12-2012 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:38 PM   #24
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Nice write-up.

I may go the opposite route in my wifes 99 Impreza 2.2, use a 2.5 block & her 2.2 heads.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Nice write-up.

I may go the opposite route in my wifes 99 Impreza 2.2, use a 2.5 block & her 2.2 heads.
That's a good idea. It will require 91+ octane though.
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