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Old 08-13-2012, 07:19 PM   #1
CoopsCustomz
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Cool ReNuLite headlight sealant- from foggy to like new!

Hey guys,

A quick review: I was to the point of considering buying new headlights because I had tried all of the different headlight lens restoration kits- none of them having any real long term effect.

Jdub.csu posted in a random thread that he works for a shop that wet sands and clear coats the headlights with ReNuLite. I saw some before and after pics and was sold.

Long story short, it's a tape off, wet sand (600,800,100,2000,3000), clean and polish (with a plastic cleaner and then polish), and spray with ReNuLite (3 or 4 coats). Let cure in full sun.

Dare I say my headlights look better than new. The ReNuLite gives them a crystal clear finish that looks nicer than just regular plastic. I got my night time lumens back as well. The color of the light noticeably went from dim and yellow to bright blue-ish white.

It's a little pricey at $45, but you could easily get 3 or 4 buddy's together and split the cost. The can says it will cover roughly 20 headlights.

I don't have any good before pics, but I'll post the examples, and then my finished product

Before example:


After example:



My finished result:








Thanks Jdub.csu for the recommendation and the walk through!
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Old 08-13-2012, 07:54 PM   #2
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Your most welcome! The can lies though about the 20 headlights. It will do 10 max of you coating them thick (as I think you should)

You can also use that product on taillights ect. We do it at the shop and charge 100 per set with a 3yr/36K warranty so it should last you a while. Enjoy!

Last edited by Jdub.csu; 08-13-2012 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:08 PM   #3
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Here is what they should look like after being sanded

Before restoring (mustang)


After restoring (mustang)


The worst set I have done to date (Jeep before)


Jeep After


Cougar before


Cougar after (the ReNuLite is still curing in this pic)

Last edited by Jdub.csu; 08-13-2012 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:52 PM   #4
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I just used the 3M restorer kit. The kit had 500 dry, 800 dry, 3000 wet, then just some 3M rubbing compound . To my untrained eye it came out beautiful.

If I'm happy with the results so far, how necessary is the plastic cleaner and polish that you mentioned? Can I just top it off now with the Renulite?

Do you let each coat dry before applying additional coats? Thanks

Last edited by HAL1; 08-18-2012 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAL1
I just used the 3M restorer kit. The kit had 500 dry, 800 dry, 3000 wet, then just some 3M rubbing compound . To my untrained eye it came out beautiful.

If I'm happy with the results so far, how necessary is the plastic cleaner and polish that you mentioned? Can I just top it off now with the Renulite?

Do you let each coat dry before applying additional coats? Thanks
You only need one thick coat it's not like spraying a car paint. The problem with your set up is that you have no UV cure on those. Over time they will start to look like crap again. The cleaner is just so you get rid of any finger oils ect so the ReNuLite sticks to the headlight. Your just creating a clean surface.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdub.csu View Post
You only need one thick coat it's not like spraying a car paint. The problem with your set up is that you have no UV cure on those. Over time they will start to look like crap again. The cleaner is just so you get rid of any finger oils ect so the ReNuLite sticks to the headlight. Your just creating a clean surface.
Thanks. I know about my new, unprotected surface. And I asked about more than one coat and the cleaner and polish only because CoopsCustomz mentioned it in his original post.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:57 PM   #7
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We don't use a polish at the shop just up the grit then clean with denature alcohol and then wait a little and then spray.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdub.csu View Post
We don't use a polish at the shop just up the grit then clean with denature alcohol and then wait a little and then spray.
I'd like to review.
1. wet sand multi stage up to 3000.
2. denatured alcohol (let dry)
3. reNulite (1 thick coat & cure in full sun)
4. uv protectant. which do you use? or is reNulite the UV protectant?
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkSilver10NM
I'd like to review.
1. wet sand multi stage up to 3000.
2. denatured alcohol (let dry)
3. reNulite (1 thick coat & cure in full sun)
4. uv protectant. which do you use? or is reNulite the UV protectant?
1. Correct
2. Correct (also wipe it off then spray again and let dry)
3. Spray coat in non uv light area, then move into uv light (sun) after about 5 mins and you are happy with how they look. NO WIND otherwise **** will get stuck to the lights

4) not needed as that is what the ReNulite does
5) enjoy years of not doing it again

The longer you spend on step one the better it will look.
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:07 AM   #10
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The results look great but $45 is a lot for a can of clear coat/sealer. Would the results with ReNuLite be much better than using a spray can of clear coat from the auto parts store? It may be a dumb idea but I've thought about it.

I tried the Sylvania headlight resto kit a few months ago and I can already see some discoloration in the UV clear coat/sealer. Also, with the Sylvania kit they have you "brush" on the coating with a folded-up blue paper towel so there's some streaking and unevenness which is noticeable up close.

I really like that the ReNuLite is sprayed on and activates really fast with UV light. For my next attempt, I will definitely go with a sprayed on coating.
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:27 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esteve
The results look great but $45 is a lot for a can of clear coat/sealer. Would the results with ReNuLite be much better than using a spray can of clear coat from the auto parts store? It may be a dumb idea but I've thought about it.

I tried the Sylvania headlight resto kit a few months ago and I can already see some discoloration in the UV clear coat/sealer. Also, with the Sylvania kit they have you "brush" on the coating with a folded-up blue paper towel so there's some streaking and unevenness which is noticeable up close.

I really like that the ReNuLite is sprayed on and activates really fast with UV light. For my next attempt, I will definitely go with a sprayed on coating.
It's a UV protecting coating not just a clear coat that is what it makes it better
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:00 AM   #12
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I plan on getting this kit come tmrw! will post pics!!!
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdub.csu

It's a UV protecting coating not just a clear coat that is what it makes it better
Ok thanks, I think I'm gonna give this stuff a try and follow your how-to.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:21 AM   #14
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Have fun guys just take your time. The most important part is preparing them before spraying.

We do this on shop vehicles and offer a 3yr/36K warranty on them in CO (home of mag chloride)
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:03 PM   #15
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I have a question for Jdub.csu about spraying renulite. You mentioned to spray one thick coat but the can says to spray two light coats with like 10-15 seconds between coats. From your experience doing it at your shop, have you found one thick coat to have better results?

I finally ordered up the can of renulite and just wanted to get the details in order before I restore my lights. I think I'm pretty clear on everything else. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving everybody!
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esteve View Post
I have a question for Jdub.csu about spraying renulite. You mentioned to spray one thick coat but the can says to spray two light coats with like 10-15 seconds between coats. From your experience doing it at your shop, have you found one thick coat to have better results?

I finally ordered up the can of renulite and just wanted to get the details in order before I restore my lights. I think I'm pretty clear on everything else. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving everybody!
Found it better to do one thick coat. If you get any runs just spray them down towards the bottom of the headlight. The reason for the one thick coat is it lasts much longer.

You too have a nice holiday!
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdub.csu

Found it better to do one thick coat. If you get any runs just spray them down towards the bottom of the headlight. The reason for the one thick coat is it lasts much longer.

You too have a nice holiday!
Cool, I like the reasoning for one thick coat. I think I'll practice spraying on some scrap first just to get a feel for it. Thanks for the great info!
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esteve View Post

Cool, I like the reasoning for one thick coat. I think I'll practice spraying on some scrap first just to get a feel for it. Thanks for the great info!
Do you have plastic scrap? It only adheres well to a clean plastic surface
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdub.csu

Do you have plastic scrap? It only adheres well to a clean plastic surface
Ok, I should be able to find something laying around the house like a gallon water jug or I could wrap a plastic bag around a rock. I just want to get a feel for the thickness of the coats.

BTW, when wet sanding use a circular motion right?
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Ok, I should be able to find something laying around the house like a gallon water jug or I could wrap a plastic bag around a rock. I just want to get a feel for the thickness of the coats.

BTW, when wet sanding use a circular motion right?
Correct. It should look hazy when you are done. You should have NO shiny spots at all. The most important part is the sanding actually.

As for spraying you can spray it like a flood and it won't matter. As long as it runs out and doesn't leave lines your good and even when it does you can use the spray to fix it.

Also after spraying give it 10 mins to "flash" before you expose it to ultra violet lights. This allows you to ensure that you don't have runs.

Last edited by Jdub.csu; 11-22-2012 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:11 PM   #21
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Appreciate all the tips Jdub.csu, now I can do my lights with confidence! I'll probably do it this weekend after I pick up a few missing grits of sandpaper and some denatured alcohol.
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:53 PM   #22
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Appreciate all the tips Jdub.csu, now I can do my lights with confidence! I'll probably do it this weekend after I pick up a few missing grits of sandpaper and some denatured alcohol.
No problem your welcome! Make sure to post pictures and thoughts after you do yours
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:02 PM   #23
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No problem your welcome! Make sure to post pictures and thoughts after you do yours
Ok, will do.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:21 PM   #24
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I gave my headlights the renulite treatment today and I was impressed with it. My headlights look great, but getting there was a sad comedy of errors. I put one thick coat as recommended by Jdub.csu, and the lights looked great. Well, instead of stopping (this is where the idiot in me kicked in), I decided to spray another coat. After that the runs started forming but no big deal I smoothed them out and drove them down the bottom. I ended up giving each light several coats.

With all that spraying, I didn't realize the runs were leaking onto my paint. I didn't remove the tape and paper until after the UV cure so it was already hard by that point. I managed to gently scrape off some of the bigger chunks but there are some minor dried-up runs on the bumper and one fender.

Jdub.csu, do you know a good way to remove those from my paint? Doing renulite at your shop, I'm guessing you've run across that before. Thanks!
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:50 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esteve View Post
I gave my headlights the renulite treatment today and I was impressed with it. My headlights look great, but getting there was a sad comedy of errors. I put one thick coat as recommended by Jdub.csu, and the lights looked great. Well, instead of stopping (this is where the idiot in me kicked in), I decided to spray another coat. After that the runs started forming but no big deal I smoothed them out and drove them down the bottom. I ended up giving each light several coats.

With all that spraying, I didn't realize the runs were leaking onto my paint. I didn't remove the tape and paper until after the UV cure so it was already hard by that point. I managed to gently scrape off some of the bigger chunks but there are some minor dried-up runs on the bumper and one fender.

Jdub.csu, do you know a good way to remove those from my paint? Doing renulite at your shop, I'm guessing you've run across that before. Thanks!
Lots of denatured alcohol. We clean up before letting them cure to avoid that problem. Sorry forgot to mention that. But the only way is soaking the spots in denatured alcohol. Like a soaked Cotten swap tapped there
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